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Thursday, June 25, 2020

Colonial Lady 3D Block Box

Shaped lid fits snugly over base, 
which are glued together to form the imitation “wood block” 
onto which the layered, highly-detailed colonial figure is attached.  
Plenty of details add to the charm of this lady, 
styled to be displayed with 
companion design “Colonial Gent Block Box”. 
Measures approx. 4.5” wide x  7.5” tall x 1.5” deep.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A LID front panel with boxing strips as identified
B BASE back panel with boxing strips as identified
Base interior support strips 1 (top), 2 (middle) & bottom
C figure silhouette lower foundation
D figure head/hat silhouette upper foundation
(shows-thru as neck)
E eye 'whites' liner strip
F feet  G hair  H hat (brim and crown)
I eyes base layer and pupils, mouth
J face overlay with cheek circles
K hands left and right
L under-dress   M stripes overlay
N fichu bottom, middle and separate top overlays
O dress   P cummerbund base and center
Q lace cuffs  R dress star 'liners' (modified) 
2. To understand LID and BASE boxing assembly,
become familiar with the symbols cut into end tabs
or nearby that help identify section connections.
Lid strips have single symbols; base strips have paired.

3. Bend the LID boxing strips at cross-perforations
and bend edge tabs back. Re-direct the cross bends
to echo the main panel's edge segments.
NOTE that a cut in 'L' will help identify the LID
panel from the Base panel.
Also NOTE that the center of the top boxing strip
has a slight notch cut out to help identify and position it.
Two curved box segments on each left or right half
of the main panel will require a series of tiny tabs
that will allow boxing strip to curve and fit.
Identify these on the top strip at hat crown sides, and . . .
. . . at mid side strips for top of skirt.
4. Add some gentle back curve to these areas
to assist them to conform to the panel shape,
using a rod tool such as a round pencil or dowel
and thumb pressure (think 'curling ribbon').
5. To begin assembly, identify the first straight segment
of boxing and the corresponding panel edge, then
with tab bent back, position and align the panel edge
to overlap the tab to the perforation line; adjust ends
and glue in place.
6. Repeat step 5 for the opposite straight segment.
7. Ease in the center top straight edge tabs and multiple
"curve" edge tabs to fit the center panel edges,
and glue in place.
8. Continue around the panel edge to bend strip to match
tab perforations with panel edge, adjust, and glue in place . . . 
. . . until all boxing strip edges are in place.
9. Repeat for the opposite end of strip.
10. Locate the strip with the matching symbols, then . . .
. . . position and attach the strip ends, overlapping
the new strip end over the end tab to perforation line,
adjust and glue to attach.
11. Continue in the same fashion to bend, match,
fit and glue each segment of strip to edge of panel.
At the curved edge of skirt portion, fit the straight
portion, then ease in and fit the 'curved' portion.
12. Repeat for the opposite side of panel.
13. Position and attach the bottom strip, then . . .
. . . bend in to fit panel and final strip ends in
one step; glue in place.
14. Repeat steps 4-13 for the BASE of the box.
15. The internal support strips of the BASE can be
identified by a cut in number for the top (1) and
middle (2). The bottom strip has no symbol,
but is the longest. Prepare strips by bending back
on bottom edge and side flange tabs.
16. Position #1 support strip as shown here,
at the angle at bottom of 'hat' area, so that 
the side tabs perforation line/angle of strip lines up
with the wall bend. Glue bottom and side tabs to
inside surfaces of BASE.
17. Position and attach the middle strip at the next
angles below strip #1, and the lower strip at the bend
just above 'skirt'.
18. Assemble the figure:
A) position and attach the stripes overlay onto
underskirt, stripe bottom edges even with skirt.
B) Layer the fichu mid layer onto the base layer
using the punch holes to help align the two layers,
then position top left individual shape first,
then right.
C) Position and attach hat brim and crown onto
hair shape.
D) Position stars left and right "show-thru" under-lays
(these have been modified in final cut file)
under the skirt so that they do not show, except
 thru the star cutouts.
E) Layer the cummerbund center shape on top
of the base shape, then position and attach
to skirt.
F) Position face shape onto head/neck base.
G) Add cheek circles, mouth onto face.
H) Position eye 'whites' strip behind 
eye openings in the rectangle cutout
of head/neck.
I) Layer eyes and attach in eye cutouts.
J) Position neck edge of head/neck base
into corresponding edge of body base shape
and affix tiny pieces of temp cello or paper tape
on backside to hold in place.
K) Position dress assembly on top of underskirt
and attach.
L) Tuck and attach sleeve lace shapes at sleeve ends.
M) Position and attach hair/hat assembly over head
of base.
N) Position dress assembly over body base, using 
punch holes to assist with alignment; before attaching
skirt fully, leave lace unattached so that . . .
. . . hand/arm shapes can be positioned and tucked
under lace edges.
O) Position and attach feet shape.
P) position and attach fichu assembly, flexing
to allow top neckline edges to wrap around slightly,
the glue in place.
Here is the completed lady figure.
19. Position and attach figure to lid front,
keeping even offset margin all around, except
for bottom of feet, which is even with panel's bottom edge.
20. To complete the box, fit the LID over the BASE
and slide together fully.
(NOTE the figure should be attached to LID at this point.)
If desired, prepare a baggie of poly beads or other
doll making weighting materials in bottom compartment
prior to closing the block box; attach in place as desired.
21. Either before fully closed, or after, apply quick-grab
adhesive between the LID and BASE walls all around
to help the LID hold its desired shape, then . . . 
. . . quickly apply pressure along ALL edges,
so the LID conforms to BASE shape as closely
as possible.
Here is the completed block box.


Colonial Gent 3D Block Box

Shaped lid fits snugly over base, 
which are glued together to form the imitation “wood block” 
onto which the layered, highly-detailed colonial figure is attached.  
Plenty of details add to the charm of this gent, 
styled to be displayed with 
companion design “Colonial Lady Block Box”. 

Measures approx. 4.5” wide x  7.75” tall x 1.5” deep. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A LID main panel front
LID boxing strips as identified
B BASE main panel back
BASE boxing strips as identified
Base interior support strips: top 3-sided, mid
C body lower silhouette base - hose
D head/hat silhouette base - face
E eye 'whites' liner strip
F hands left & right
G shoes assembly: one-piece uppers/base, soul strip, 
buckles, toes
H beard   I mouth contrast underlay
J eyes two-layer assembly, nose circle
K hat and hat trim accent
L cockade: left, right ribbons; circle medallion
M pants (NOTE this has been modified in final file)
N vest base and left front overlay with buttons
O jacket left and right
P sleeve overlays left & right with cuff overlays
Q wrist lace accents left & right
R jacket & cuff buttons
2. Prepare the boxing strips by bending on the cross
perforations for wall segments, also bend the edge tabs back.

3. Identify the 'curve' area of shoulder/sleeve shape
on box LID and BASE panels and corresponding
multi-tab sections of boxing strips. Use a rod-like tool
such as this wooden dowel to add curl to that
portion ONLY of those side boxing strips as shown.

4. To understand LID and BASE boxing assembly,
become familiar with the symbols cut into end tabs
or nearby that help identify section connections.
Lid strips have single symbols; base strips have paired.
5.  Re-direct the cross bends
to echo the main panel's edge segments
as strips are arranged around LID or BASE
to make it easier to identify where strips will be joined.
NOTE that a cut in 'L' will help identify the LID
panel from the Base panel.
NOTE that the boxing strips each have tiny cut symbols
in end tabs or top tabs to assist with identification
of how the strips will be joined around the panel.
6. Begin with the top center boxing strip which has
a straight dividing flange cut at center.
Position strip at center top edge of panel, bend to
match edges making sure tabs are bent back,
then overlap the LID panel straight edges to
tab perforation line, and glue each tab in place.
7. Continue along the boxing and LID edge to bend,
adjust and attach the successive segments to
their corresponding edges, taking care that panel edge
is aligned as precisely along the boxing tab perforation
 line as possible.
8. Continue until all edges and segments on one side
are joined, then . . . 
. . . work along the opposite side of 'hat' area to align
and join all segments of the top center strip.
NOTE that it will be helpful to place the assembly
face down on a flat surface to apply fingertip pressure
along the tabs seam from the inside of the assembly.
9. Identify the next boxing strip in the sequence by
 matching the tiny square cut outs on end flange or tab
then . . .
. . . overlap the new strip straight end edge to
the flange's perforation line, adjust, and glue seam.
10. Adjust the multi-tab strip edge to match the curved
panel edge, positioning the opposite end for fit,
then easing in and gluing the tabs to panel backside.
11. Repeat Step 9-10 for the opposite side.
12. Identify, align and attach the lower sides/bottom
boxing strip on one end, bend to conform and attach
around side, bottom and up opposite side, until . . .
. . . the final segment or two are ready to position
and attach, then prepare and fit together along with
the final strip-to-strip end seam in one step.
13. Repeat steps 6-12 for the BASE.
14. Prepare the upper three-part interior support 'strut'
by bending back on the vertical perforations,
cut-in tabs and end tabs, bending forward at
bottom flange tabs as shown.
15. Position the strut in triangular formation in the
hat area of BASE, placing the end flanges on each
side of the center top 'hat' angle, and the cut-in tabs
at inward angle as shown. 
Glue tabs to walls, and
bottom tabs to BASE panel backside.
16. Prepare lower 'strut' by bending back
on end tabs and forward on bottom tab.
Position and attach at the inward angle
at 'arms' ends, as shown.
17. Prepare to assemble the figure by identifying
and beginning the pre-assembly, positioning and
attaching as follows:
A) layer hat accent trim over hat base and attach;
B) assemble cockade by layering ribbon rounded ends
with medallion circle on top;
C) layer sleeves and cuffs onto jacket side bases;
D) layer single left weskit over whole base;
E) layer toes, soul strip over shoe tongues/base;
F) attach eye whites behind eye socket openings;
G) slot mouth contrast into its opening and tape
in place until beard is placed to attach by gluing;
H) attach hat assembly over corresponding area
of upper base shape;
I) position vest at top of pants shape;
J) position vest/pants assembly over lower body silhouette;
K) position jacket left and right over body silhouette base
and vest/pants;
L) position beard below hat edge overlapping
jacket;
M) position nose, eyes onto face area;
N) position hand and lace accents below
cuffs;
O) position and attach jacket, cuff,
vest buttons, and buckles onto shoes.
18. Position and attach the figure assembly
onto the LID front, with even margins around.
20. Assemble the box by fitting the LID over
the BASE and sliding fully together.
21. Glue the box walls together by inserting
glue between layers all around, then immediately
apply inward pressure to conform box shape
to match BASE shape.
Here is the completed gent box.