Needles 'n' Knowledge: April 2019

Varied sentiments from two slightly varied

bee-theme card designs:

send congratulations and share the news;

or convey encouragement and support.

Hollow layered rings create the round base of

highly-detailed card with delicate offset margins

with detailed bee emblem bridging the space.

Script-style words for “all the buzz”

or "bee-lieving in you" phrases can be positioned

at center bottom using optional positioning guide shapes.

Back ring base has perforations at two-thirds of

the way up to allow it to bend away to reveal

arched sentiment plaque.

Card fits into envelope for 6x6 card.

ASSEMBLY: (Bee-lieving design will be
demonstrated in tutorial, with only difference
noted in step 4.)
1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main base ring
B accent layer #1 C accent layer #2 with punch circles
D honeycomb emblem base and overlay
E base ring back panel (this one with squared bottom)
F sentiment arch for lower interior
G bee base silhouette (to build on)
H head shapes: center, eyes, antennae
I thorax assembly: base, upper oval & show-thru, arc
J wing delicate overlay outlines K wing bases
L leg shapes (3 each for l & r)
M abdomen and stripes overlay
N word cutouts: "bee-lieving in you"
O optional word positioning guide arch

2. Layer the two accent rings with inner edge circle

aligned, and attach together.

3. Attach the punch circle accents.

(NOTE: the "all the buzz" design has more circles.)

4. Prepare to position and attach the words of phrase

by finding vertical center with some kind of guide.

One example, here, is to place ring assembly on

a grid, focusing on a vertical center line being placed

on a center line, then rotating slightly until other elements

help refine the positioning, such as the spacing between

the ring side center edges to adjacent grid lines,

and the lowest punch circle both aligning on

a cross line. Once achieved, retain positioning until . . .

. . . word positioning guide can be positioned at
bottom of top ring layer, and temp taped at ends.
(NOTE: for "all the buzz" design, the positioning
guide will be positioned at the bottom of
the layer #1 ring.)

5. Use fine pencil to lightly trace the letter bottom shaping
onto the top ring. (Some letters positioned to
give an idea of how the welded words fit on guide.)

6. Remove the guide and discard. Position and
attach words where tracings indicate, hiding trace lines
if possible. Add the 'i' dots and the dash in place, too.

7. Position the upper ring assembly onto the base ring,

centering so that there is a slight reveal at inside edge,

and a slightly wider reveal at outer edge, and

attach in place. (If using liquid glue, consider pressing

under a flat weight until glue dries completely to avoid

warping or curling.)

8. Complete some pre-assembly for bee:

layer stripes overlay onto abdomen shape;

layer contrast top thorax oval under
main thorax oval, then . . .

. . . position and attach oval assembly onto
center of main thorax shape.

9. Assemble the bee on the base silhouette shape with

tiny offset margins around each and at edges as shown:

dry fit the thorax assembly, and . . .

. . . body assembly to ensure accurate relative
positions and make adjustments, making sure the
under-thorax arc will fit, then attach these three
center body shapes.

10. Position the head center shape and attach.
Then position the eyes and antennae.

11. Position and attach the wing shapes, then . . .

. . . position and attach the three-part legs.

(If using liquid glue, consider pressing

under a flat weight until glue dries completely to avoid

warping or curling.)

12. Position the bee centered, to span the ring center
opening, and on the vertical center.
Adjust up/down so that antennae tips and leg tips
can barely overlap and be attached to inner ring edge,
then attach bee surfaces where they overlap.

13. Prepare the honeycomb emblem by layering

the overlay onto offset base, centering, and

attaching in place.

14. Position the emblem at top center, with small
margins extending beyond ring edges at top, bottom,
and attach in place.

15. Prepare the card back base by bending forward

along the horizontal cross perforations on each side.

16.Position the back ring base behind the front

card assembly, with the upper portion centered

and aligned at top, and glue in place the half

above the perforations to form an easel.

17. Open the lower card portion to reveal
the backside of the main card, then center
and attach the arch-shaped sentiment plaque.

Here is the finished card, opened slightly

so it can stand on its own for display.

Dimensional display for bee lovers features

a two-part fit-together egg form with contrast “yellow”

double-section overlays to form 3 stripes.

Hexagon post with cut-to-size 1/4" wooden dowel insert

allows the bee form to hover above the scalloped base layers,

anchored in a small box with built-up anchor stack concealed inside.

Spiral "spring" shape gives illusion that bee is flying.

Pair of heart wings attached with brad accent,

and curly antennae add final details.

Measures approx. 4.75” tall

(also includes a longer post for a 6.25” tall version)

with 4.5” diameter base.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A front body dome (lower)
B front body dome (upper) with attached decagon "lid"
C back body dome (lower)
D back body dome (upper) with attached decagon "lid"
E, F & G front, middle & back stripe overlays (5 each)
H antennae pair fronts and backs
I & J upper and lower wings
K & K post anchor stacks (6-7 for each of 2)
L post support "box" M post wrap
N base scallop accent (contrast top layer)
O base scallop top layer
P base scallop build up layers (6)
Q spiral

2. Prepare the post anchor build up stacks by

layering the cut shapes and attaching together,

taking care to align all cut edges as precisely

as possible. Create two stacks of 6-7 shapes each.

NOTE: it will be helpful to press each stack assembly
under a heavy flat object such as this fabric-covered
re-purposed free weight, or something similar,
until liquid glue is completely dry, to reduce or
eliminate warping or curling of the stack.

3. Layer the scallop circle base, with the smaller

top layer first attached (centered) on main base

scallop top layer, then position and attach remaining.

Use flat weight to press this assembly until it is fully dry.

NOTE: this may require several hours.

4. Prepare the half dome shapes by bending back

on all perforation lines, including . . .

. . . the tiny wedge tabs

between the sections . . .

. . . which may be best creased by bending

adjacent sections back out of the way, the

pinching along the perforation line to crease

all along, including down to the cross seam

that defines that segment edge at bottom.

(Precision creasing at this point is helpful.)

5. Join each of the seams by bending back
the lowest unattached segments of the seam
to overlap the straight edge (on right as shown here)
over tab (left) to perforation line, then glue in place.

Repeat for the next segment, and . . .

. . . and third segment and top segment.
Repeat the seaming process for each of the seams
between sections on all dome halves.

6. Align the front halves along the joining seam edges

and repeat the process for aligning straight edge

overlapping adjacent tab to perf line, and join,

including the inward segment (where this image

begins the process).

7. Repeat for the opposite side seam to complete

the dome assembly. Bend the front decagon "lid"

into position, (see step 9 for back dome as ref.)

adjust so that edges align at top tab

perforation lines, and join. It may be helpful

to apply pressure from inside.

8. Repeat the wedge section seaming process for

the back half dome sections . . .

. . . aligning and joining the half seams in

same manner to complete the back dome.

9. Bend back end decagon "lid" into position,

adjust and attach.

10. Use a rounded tool like this spatula handle end

to push the interior wedge tabs of the front half dome

at bottom inward.

11. Bend each stripe overlay back at center perforation line.
Get familiar with how stripe overlays will be
positioned, with front, middle and back stripes
positioned on their own "strata" of the domes.
Shown here, the mid bottom stripe with hex cutout
is positioned over matching strata of front dome with
the perforation aligning with seam, and attached in place.

12. Continue to complete the middle stripe by
positioning the other overlaps around the dome.
(Paper thickness may affect how the stripes fit;
scissor trim any excess at end edges.)
* * * * *
NOTE that the center TOP overlay
that will eventually be positioned, will be left off
until post is in place.

13. In similar manner, position and attach the front

stripe overlays all around, using the large slotted overlay

at the panel where antennae slots pair are located.

14. Repeat for the back stripe overlays,

positioned and attached on the back dome as shown.

15. Prepare the antennae pair by bending the end

tabs forward, then layer the reversed left and right pair . . .

. . . back to back and glue together, leaving
the end tabs free.

16. Straighten end tabs so they are flat again,

then insert through the body slot for the appropriate

antennae (they should curl outward when in

the correct position).

17. On the inside of the front dome, spread the end tabs
again and glue each in place to dome backside.

18. Repeat for the other antennae to insert,
and glue tabs in place.

19. Apply glue to the back dome inward segments

all around, then insert into the open end of

front dome, taking care that the top and bottom

panels are lined up appropriately, and carefully

work the two ends together until fully inserted,

and apply pressure to join all edges.

20. Prepare the post tube strip by bending back

along each of the long perforation lines.
NOTE: there is a shorter post (as shown in finished image)
and a taller post available: choose the one your prefer.

21. Form the post shape into a tube to overlap

the straight long side edge over the opposite flange
to perforation line and glue in place . . .

. . . working finger pressure up and down the edge

until all is secure.

NOTE: this will be easiest if the 1/4" wooden dowel
is used as a form, wrapping the strip around,
overlap edges and gluing as described.

22. Bend top end tabs outward, slide the tube to be even

at the end of dowel, then . . .

. . . mark the opposite edge of tube, then

remove the dowel and cut to size at mark.

Insert the dowel piece into tube . . .

. . . and apply glue to dowel, slide tube to be even at ends.

23. Position and attach the first support stack

on the front side of the accent scallop circle shape

that includes the slots.

"Audition" how the post will fit into the support collar

and base, if desired (but wait to attach til later).

24. Build the support "box" by bending back

on all perforation lines.

NOTE: it may be helpful to keep insertion tabs unbent

at perforations until inserted into base slots.

25. On backside of support box, position one post

stack so that the hexagon openings of each

line up as precisely as possible, and glue in place.

26. Form the support box shape by bending adjacent
sides back so that the tab is tucked in and
the straight edge of one side overlaps tab to perf line.
Glue this side seam, and remaining three.

27. Position the support box over the front of

the scallop circle base shape so that tabs will fit

into the slots.

Insert slots and then . . .

. . . turn to backside to bend tabs outward and
glue each in place.
28. Position the post/scallop circle accent assembly
onto the top of the base scallop assembly,
center and adjust as necessary, then glue together.