Frankie 3D Display Box

Not-too-scary Halloween decor doubles as a gift box 
with LID and BASE boxing compartments that 

fit snuggly together.  Built-up layers provide strength 

and substance, with separate “underside” layers with 

positioning guidance for boxing assemblies. 

Loads of details “bring Frankie to life”: 

shoe uppers and soles, shirt with batty buttons, 

craggy hands, highlighted eyes, head side bolts, 

flat-top hair, toothy grin, cheek ovals and scars. 

Measures approx. 8.25” tall x 4.25” wide with 1” deep boxing. 

INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A LID front panel shapes (3-4) to layer for thickness

B LID inner layer with guide marks

C LID boxing base shape

D LID boxing strips

E BASE bottom panel shapes (3-4) to layer for thickness

F BASE inner layer with guide marks

G BASE boxing base shape

H BASE boxing strips

Identify and cut the 'character' front panel shapes:

I pants decor shape    

J pants foundation layer extension (doesn't show)

K main shirt front   

L eyes white contrast panel with nose wedge contrast

M head foundation (doesn't show)

N arms, sleeves, shirt shoulders for left & right

O bat button shapes (2 buttons @ 4 each)

P shoes 'upper' foundation plus soles

Q face details: bolts and collars; cheeks, ear underlays

R flat top hair, long scar, eyebrows, eye blacks & whites,

small scar

S smile with teeth underlay

2. Identify the LID front panel shapes which have the 'L'

cut symbol; also identify the BASE shapes which are

reversed from LID with 'B'.

3. Position and attach the front panel shapes to create

a thick panel for box front, taking care to align ALL cut edges

as precisely as possible.

4. Identify the LID inner layer that has boxing shape

positioning guide marks offset approx. 1/4" in from edges.

Also NOTE that this shape is reversed from the outer layer.

Position this on the bottom of the front layer stack

with ALL edges lined up, and glue in place.

5. Immediately position a heavy flat object (such as

this planed wood plank, or a large book) over the top of the stack

to press flat while the glued-up stack is allowed to dry

completely (for a few hours). 

6. Repeat Steps 2-5 for the BASE build-up layers.

7. Position each of the four bat button shapes for a button

into a stack, and glue together, matching all cut edges

and hole openings, then press flat under a heavy object

until thoroughly dry. Complete two buttons.

8. Complete pre-assembly for components of the character

front decoration, and press under flat weight if possible:

A) layer optional eye highlight show-thru circles behind pupil;

B) position and attach bolt collar strips on top of bolt shapes;

C) position smile on top of the teeth/smile shapes;

D) position and attach sleeve and sleeve cap on top

of arm shapes for left and right assemblies

E position and attach shoe sole strips on bottom of shoes

Here are the components assembled:

9. Prepare the pants/foundation layer by

abutting the upper torso/head shape above the pants

shape with straight edges aligned, sides even,

and secure with small pieces of cello tape.

10. Prepare to position and attach the shirt main shape,

head foundation shapes with eye and nose contour

show-thru shapes . . .

. . . then position and attach the head shape with flat-top

and bolt shapes aligned with pants foundation,

position shirt shape below (with puzzle notch interlock)

and attach, then fit and attach eye show thru and nose

contrast in the recess that remains. Press under flat weight

while adhesive dries thoroughly.

11. Prepare to assemble the head:

A) attach hair where edges match

B) attach ear contrast shapes behind ear cutouts

C) attach left and right bolt assemblies

D) position and attach eyebrows, scars and smile.

Press under a flat weight while adhesive dries.

12. Position and attach shoe units onto assembly.

13. Position and attach the head assembly on top of

the body assembly layers where upper edges align, then . . .

. . . position and attach cheek ovals into recesses,

and eye units into eye socket recesses.

14. Position and attach character assembly

onto the LID stack front; press under weight until dry.

15. Become familiar with the identification system of

the boxing strips. Shapes have cut symbols of circle,

triangle or 'X' on end tabs and edge tabs to help identify

which strips are for LID boxing (single) 

or for BASE boxing (double), and . . .

. . . which strip ends join.

16. Prepare each strip by bending back top (LID) or

bottom (BASE) attachment flanges, end tabs, and

vertical perforations. It may be helpful to re-direct

the vertical bends so that the strips echo the boxing shape

edges, as shown below for LID.

This diagram shows the LID and BASE shapes with

the angle location where the strips will join, identified

by the symbol shapes cut into tabs.

NOTE that the L & B shapes are reversed to be

face down for assembly.

17. Position the lower/side boxing strip at the bottom edge

of the LID boxing shape, center edge along boxing segment,

then glue in place.

18. Position the next few tabs and edges around the feet

shaping edge so that strip segments align with edges,

and glue each in place. NOTE that there is a small

amount of allowance margin at main shape edge

that may need to be "averaged" or adjusted as strips

are positioned and attached.

 

19. Continue to position, align and glue tabs along edge,

applying fingertip pressure to firmly attach strip.

20. Position and attach the next strip (match symbols)

by overlapping straight edge over end tab to perforation line.

21. Continue to position and attach the boxing strip

around the top of boxing shape.

22. Position and attach the opposite side strip at end,

then position and attach around the side edge,

pausing before the final edges and tabs are in place . . .

. . . so that the final end tab can be slipped behind

the adjacent straight edge to align and join that seam,

while at the same time positioning final segments

to complete boxing attachment.

23. Position the boxing assembly at the backside of

the front built-up stack, using the guide assist

with placement, then attach in place.

(A flat weight such as a book placed on top of boxing

will assist with attachment.)

24. Repeat the boxing attachment of Steps 17-23

for the BASE.

25. Position and attach the bat buttons at shirt

center, tying with cord knot, bow and streamers

as desired, or . . . 

. . . insert a length of sheer ribbon front-to-back

through holes with trimmed tails as was done

for this sample, before attaching.

26. To close the box, fit together LID (outer walls)

and BASE . . .

. . . then slide completely together.

Here is the completed box.

Skeleton Dimensional Key

 

Five strata for each left and right assembly( (plus an extra center)

 are layered to build up the two-sided character of this spooky key. 

Use as part of an assemblage, an embellishment for Halloween cards 

or decor, or a decoration on its own. 

(If magic Santa Claus has a key to get into the house when he

can't come down a chimney, you gotta assume

the spooks have a key on Halloween night, too!)

Measures approx. 1.84” wide x 5.15” long x .2” thick 

when finished. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

for the right half 

(missing: 1 extra of first shape for center layer)

for the left half.

The layering steps will be shown for the right half.

Repeat the same process for the left half, up through

Step 6.

When layering, take particular care to line up ALL cut

edges as precisely as possible.

2. Layer some of the units:

A) long whole but offset layer onto main layer;

B) skull shapes layered;

C) 'bow' flourishes layered;

D) 'bolt' circles into one stack

3. Continue to layer onto the long central assembly:

E) shorter barrel onto long barrel assembly.

4. Complete the layering:

F) skulls on;  G) 'bow' flourishes on; 

H) lrg & sm collars accents on;

I) 'bolt' circles stack at base recess;

J) rectangle throating & K) bit overlay on.

NOTE: as layering progresses, either press the glued-up

stacks and units under a heavy flat weight such as

this fabric covered re-purposed weight machine bar,

or a heavy book or similar object, to assist until the assembly

is completely dry, and to help avoid warping and curling.

5. To help strengthen and provide a bit of

extra thickness, layer one of the half assemblies

over and attach to an extra whole layer

(this will strengthen the top ribbon loop).

6. Here are the left and right assembles, shown

from their face sides. To complete the assembly . . .

. . . reverse one of the assemblies to position and

attach the halves back to back.

7. Attach a ribbon loop as desired.

(The sample has a length threaded through

the top key loop, with twine wrapping as knot.)

Here is the completed skeleton dimensional key.

Halloween Jack Wide Mouth Candy Tote

Pumpkin decoration that doubles as a candy tote 

in two versions: open front with three paper-sleeve wrapped

 “fun size” candy bars; or clear vinyl window with loose candy inside. 

Front and back pumpkin panels are layered from

 card stock for thickness, with front offset overlay.

 Eyes are layered for “chunky” dimension. 

Compartment between front and back is approx. 3.25x4.25x.5, 

and includes a bottom support and top closing flap 

(with thumb notch and opt. added tab-end strip for opening ease). 

Tie a ribbon at stem for extra panache. 

Pumpkin front measures approx. 5” wide x 6.75” tall. 

BONUS design: To “upcycle” waste mouth shapes from

multiple layers, select the designated front panel shape 

that will yield mini groot-like face panels when 

the larger panels are cut, then cut tote compartment, 

assemble and fill to create a few MINI SPOOKS! 

NOTE: the 'open window' version for wrapped bars

will be described first, with variation for the vinyl panel

window following in Step 23. The Bonus little tote assembly steps

can be found at the end.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes

(for the open window version):

A front build up layers (3-4)

B offset front face accent layer

C front underside layer with slots for tabs

D compartment   E base 'tube' support strip

F back build up layers (3-4)

G back underside layer with alignment dash lines

H back offset accent layer

I-K eye base layers (6-7 each for layering)

and top accent layers (4 each for layering)

L candy bar wraps (3)

For loose candy window front:

M front inside layer with window recess opening

N clear vinyl window panel

For optional miniature candy tote (conserving

the wide mouth opening 'waste'):

front face panel

tote compartment panel

For information purposes, this is the type and size

of candy bars ("fun size" and loose coated candies)

that were used in the model projects shown here.

2. Layer and glue together the layers for build up of

front, taking care (here and throughout) that all cut edges

are lined up as exactly as possible.

NOTE: DO NOT attach front INSIDE layer that includes slots.

As the glue up proceeds (using liquid adhesive), it is

HIGHLY advisable/required to press the glued stack under

a heavy flat object such as this wood plank section,

or a large book, until the drying is complete (may take

an hour or more - til the stack is no longer cool to touch).

3. Place the offset front accent shape over the top

of the stack and glue in place; press flat under weight.

4. Identify the inner back layer that includes the compartment

alignment cut dash lines for top edge, corners

and side edges, as indicated by pointing finger.

5. Layer and glue together the back panel build up layers,

including the back inside layer identified in step 4 above;

press under flat weight.

6. Layer the eyes and nose base layers;

press under weight while they dry.

7. Layer the eyes and nose accent (top) layers;

press under weight while they dry.

8. Position and attach eyes and nose accents onto

base stacks; press under weight while they dry.

9. Position and attach each eye or nose stack into

the matching recess cutout of the front accent panel;

press under weight while they dry.

10. Prepare the compartment panel by bending on

perforation lines for main panel, sides, bottom 'platform'

compartment, lid flaps and tabs, etc. . . .

. . . referring to this diagram for the direction of folding

(as 'mountain' or 'valley' folds).

11. Bend the lower portion - or baffle- into a tube as shown

here, below, until the bottom-most segment turns under and

can be attached to the 'floor' of the main compartment --

but WAIT to attach!

12. Prepare the baffle support strip by bending tabs forward,

then alternating the vertical bending at perforations

to form a 'W' (shown inverted here).

13. Position the strip onto the backside of the compartment

panel along the same section that side tabs extend from,

and configure so that the ends at at the corner as shown.

(For understanding, the shaped side tabs will need

to eventually fold inward and tuck next to the strip

and the angled ends will not interfere when configured

this way.)

Glue the strip tabs to the compartment wall to attach.

14. Re-fold the lower baffle into a tube, with the support strip

being enclosed, then . . .

. . . apply adhesive between the main compartment 'floor'

panel and the baffle's top 'flange', and glue together . . .

. . . making sure that the compartment back wall

and that of the baffle are straight, even, with

their planes matched up, so that back panel can be

eventually glued flat along the whole length as one surface.

15. Tuck side tabs in and glue in place.

16. Apply glue to the baffle ends, then bend

compartment side panels into position and

glue to baffle ends - make sure bottom edges

of panel and baffle are squared up and even.

17. Insert the side panel tabs of compartment into

the slots of the inner front pumpkin layer . . .

. . . while also applying adhesive to the front wall

of the lower baffle compartment, then . . .

. . . bend the tabs outward and glue in place.

Also apply pressure where the baffle needs to

attach to pumpkin panel.

18. Position and attach the built-up stack of front panels

onto the front pumpkin inner layer (attached to compartment).

19. If you plan to fill with loose candy, or if you are concerned

about being able to lift the top flap once the front

and back rigid layers are attached position the tab-ended

strip to the underside of the lid segment of compartment.

20. Position and attach the front/compartment assembly

onto the inner wall of back stack . . .

. . . taking care to align the compartment edges

and upper corners where the dash cut guide marks

show (on back panel) as well as aligning the bottom

compartment edge with bottom of back panel,

and glue firmly in place.

21. Wrap the fun size candy bars, if desired, in the

wrapper rectangles, wrapping the top and bottom ends . . .

. . . toward the back side, and centering the overlapped seam,

then securing with double-stick tape or adhesive of choice.

22. Insert the wrapped bars into the compartment

with seam to the back (hidden), then . . .

. . . tuck the flap into place. Wrap with knotted bow

as desired (for images, see Step 27).

Here is the wrapped bars version, completed.

CLEAR WINDOW VERSION

23. For the clear window version, position and attach

the recess version behind the front panel stack,

taking care to align outer cut edges as precisely as possible.

Press flat until liquid adhesive is dried.

(NOTE the window recess and clear panel in the final version

are somewhat shorter than shown here).

24. Apply double-stick narrow adhesive to generous 1/8"

edge margin of clear vinyl panel, then position into recess

and attach in place.

25. Position the front stack with vinyl window layer

onto the front of the compartment-attached layer,

align edges, and attach in place . . .

. . . taking care that teeth edges of all layers

align as well as outer edges.

26. Complete the window version as with open front

version, following Steps 19-21.

27. Fill with loose candy as full as desired, then . . .

. . . tuck the side flaps and lid flap into place.

Here is the completed loose candy version

with clear vinyl window.

MINIATURE TOTE BONUS DESIGN

28. Here are the two shapes used for the mini tote.

29. Prepare the tote compartment shape by bending

back ("mountain" fold) on all panel, bottom flap and

flange perforation lines. 

30. Form the shape into a tube to bring straight side edge

to overlap opposite side flange to perforation line

and glue seam.

NOTE that this seam can be pressed flat

to apply pressure along edges to secure.

Unflatten back into tube formation.

31. Bend bottom panel flanges in, then tuck

into the bottom of the tote, and . . .

. . . make sure edges are even with fronts and sides.

Reach fingertips inside to provide press-against

surface to apply pressure to secure seams.

32. Position the face panel over the selected 'front'

tote compartment wall, center and align bottom edges,

then secure in place.

Here is the completed mini tote.