Bee 3D Fig Flat Back

 Half-dome stylized insect has face, stripes 

and stinger body overlays, eyes, swirly antennae, 

pair of vellum wing overlays (optional hand-stitched 

variation over wing included). 

Body side tabs mount to flat body base through slots. 

Tiny hole at “nose” end and opening at stinger end 

accept a small gauge wire to display in “flight”. 

Or use as decoration element on box or package, 

card or  dimensional post card. 

Bee measures approx. 2.5” tall x 1.5” wide x .75” deep. 

Coordinates as element for BLOOM 3D Letter Box Ensemble. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A body dome   B body base with slots

C body bottom to camouflage base openings

D head, eyes antennae unit with tab

E mid body accent, stripes (one not shown here),

tail end and stinger

F underwing with perforation bend line,

overwing (plain or opt. with stitching punch holes)

cut vellum

2. Prepare the body dome shape by bending back

on all perforations for body panels, segments and

inner wedge tabs, and forward for edge tabs.

3. Join head end seams by bending segments inward

to overlap head top side straight edge over adjacent

wedge tab to perforation and gluing in place.

4. Bend the snout head end panel downward so that

straight side edge overlaps the adjacent narrow tab

to perforation line, and glue seam.

5. Bend the top and side tail segments inward to 

overlap tab and align straight edge at perforation line,

and glue seam.

6. Repeat steps 3-5 for the other side of body. 

7. Prepare the body accent, stripes (body top stripe

not shown here; see step 12), and tail/stinger overlay by

bending back of all perforation lines.

8. Prepare the head overlay shape by bending

back on all perforation lines for segments and

narrow wedge tabs at upper sides.

9. Complete each of the two upper side seams

by overlapping the inward straight edge across

the wedge tab to perforation and gluing in place.

10. Apply glue to the underside of the head overlay

then position over head end area of body dome

align perforations and edges, and glue in place.

11. Position and attach the top body accent, aligning

punch hole, front edges with body perforation lines,

and contour perforations.

12. Position and attach the top body stripe on

the adjacent dome panels at panels edges.

13. Position and attach the tail overlay where it

fits the body contours and edges, then . . . 

. . . position and attach the mid stripe halfway

between the upper body stripe and tail overlay.

14. Prepare the underwing by partially bending along

the medium length perforation lines. This will give

the wings assembly some shape and "lift". 

(Follow these next steps ONLY if adding stitching

detail to the optional punch holes wing shape.)

15. A) Study the following stitching detail illustration

that indicates where the stitching thread will connect

punch holes. NOTE that the semi-transparent vellum

that is recommended will allow thread passes on

the underneath side to be slightly visible from face side.

B) Refer to the following stitching hole numbered diagram

as the following stitching steps are described.

C) Thread a 20" length of button thread (thicker) on

a sewing needle that will fit through the stitching holes.

D) Hold a short tail on top of the wing at the center

brad hole, then insert the needle DOWN through base hole #1,

at bottom of array, and pull thread through. 

E) Stitch UP through hole #3, then DOWN

through hole #2 to complete the first "stitch" line.

Pull up thread completely between each stitch

insertion, then finger press thread to encourage it

to stay straight, flat, and avoid loopy-ness that shows

through wing.

F) Stitch UP through hole #4, then DOWN through

hole #2.

G) Stitch up through hole #5, then . . . 

. . . DOWN thru hole #6; UP thru hole #5,

then DOWN thru hole #7; UP thru hole #5;

DOWN thru hole #8.

H) UP thru hole #9, then . . . 

. . . DOWN thru #8; UP thru #10; DOWN thru #8

I) UP thru #11.

J) Complete the center stitching by stitching DOWN

thru #8, UP thru #5, DOWN thru #2.

K) Complete the first wing stitching run by returning

needle and thread UP thru center punch hole.

L) Repeat steps D-K to complete stitching on second

wing. With thread tails at center, apply a dab of glue

to secure them neatly near center hole. Wait until

glue dries, then . . . 

. . . trim excess even with top edge of wing.

(NOTE: tails should be further secured and hidden

by wing-to-body brad insertion.)

16. Insert antennae tab through head slot, then . . . 

. . . bend tab back on underside of dome and

glue in place.

17. Position and attach eyes forward on 

side head panels.

18. Layer over wing atop under wing, center

with brad punch holes aligned, adjust for balance,

then secure in place with a dab of glue near punch hole.

19. Position wing assembly over body assembly

so that holes align, then insert a black nail head brad

through all layers, and bend prongs back on inside

of body dome.

20. Position body assembly over body base and

work tabs into the slots all around. (This may require

some patience and time.)

On the underside, bend tabs inward toward center . . .

. . . and glue in place.

21. To prepare and attach a "flying" wire, cut a medium

heavy gauge wire length (approx. 15") and use pliers

to form a small loop at top end.

22. Insert the non-loop end through FRONT of

bee, across body cavity, and . . . 

. . . through BACK opening

at tail tip.

23. Prepare the end, if desired, by coiling the straight

part of the wire, beginning approx. 1.5" beyond exit point,

using a tool such as a dowel or the handle of this

spatula tool, to create several spiral wraps.

24. Apply glue to the body form rim, then position

and attach the opening camouflage base shape.

Press the edges all around until securely attached.

NOTE: one strategy is to use clips such as this group

of folio clips to apply pressure all around

as the glue dries completely.

Here is the completed bee figure.

25. If the Bee is being used as part of the BLOOM 

ensembled, the long length of wire can be inserted

through TOP of B letter box and held in place

with interior strut, where it can be hot melt glued

in desired position. Or . . . 

. . . bent to allow end to be placed on front side panel

where it can be secured in place with a generous

bead of hot melt glue, with the optional rectangular

panel covering the wire end and glue, and further

securing in place.

This view shows the possible shaping of the bee's

wire to allow it to hover over the top of B letter box.

Daffodil 3D Flower with Stand

 
A pair of three-point petal shapes form the base, 

with center formed from ruffled edge sections 

that are curled, overlapped and glued together 

to form cup. Cubic stem “post” is strengthened with 

.125” wooden dowel cut to size, which fits into blossom end,

 with sepal “cup” at bottom to assist attachment. 

Tall narrow leaves provide accents. 

Tapered box, double scallop platform shapes 

assist daffodil to stand. Decorate with one, or a cluster. 

Flower measures approx. 8” tall x 1.5” wide (base); 

blossom approx. 3.5” wide and 1.5” deep. 

Coordinates well with Flower Pot 3D Miniature design 

and as a component for the “BLOOM” 3D Letter Box Ensemble. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A petal base trio shape (2)

B cup 'petals' shape

C interior 'petals' shape

D interior stamen strip

E post cubic tube

F leaves: 1 long (not shown) and 1 short

G post tip cover and anchor

OPT. STAND:

H stand upright with accent side panel & top shapes

I scallop base    J scallop accent overlay

K post end anchor squares (4-5 to stack)

L scallop base bottom layer for camouflaging tabs

2. Position, align edges and center square opening

as precisely as possible, and glue together,

one by one into a stack.

Press the drying stack under a heavy, flat weight

such as this thick book volume, until the liquid glue

is completely dried (this may require hours).

This will help keep the stack flat, avoiding curling

and warping.

3. Add some up/downward curl to the center of

each of the six petals, using a thin rod-like tool

such as this crochet needle, then . . . 

. . . curl each of the six tips upward.

4.  Center the two petal trio shapes one on top of the other,

align the square center opening (this should help balance

the position of petals accurately), and glue centers together

where they overlap.

5. Prepare the cup 'petals' shape by separating each

petal from the adjacent ones, while bending at

the center perforations.

6. Use the rod tool to add curl to the sides and side

corners, first one side, and . . .

. . . then the other.

7. Hand-form the cup by gently pressuring upward,

to assist with the next gluing step.

Overlap adjacent petals, with smaller 'lobes' of wavy edge

overlapping on top. Apply a dab of adhesive where

two overlap . . . 

. . . so that from the outside (non-face side) only

two lobes from each petal show.

Repeat until all petals are connected to form cup.

8. Apply glue to bottom of the cup, then center cup

over the base petals assembly, and hold in place

until glue is secure.

9. Add upward curl to the ends of the four 'petals'

of the interior shape.

10. Apply adhesive to bottom near centering hole,

then position inside the petals cup and attach in place.

11. Prepare the stamen strip tuft by separating each

segment from possible connection to adjacents,

then accordion folding about halfway across 

the strip, then . . . 

. . . rolling/wrapping the remainder of the strip segments

around the accordion folded first part.

Apply glue as needed to help unit maintain its rolled shape.

12. Use the rod tool to further separate and shape

the tuft by adding "random" direction curl to each tip.

13. Apply quick-grab glue to the base end of the tuft

and then insert into center and attach over punch hole.

14. Prepare to create stem post by bending back

carefully along the four long perforation lines.

Identify the attachment "flange" edge by the angled ends.

15. Form the strip into a tube, overlapping the plain

straight long edge over the flange to perforation line,

and glue in place.

(When incorporating the blossom as part

of the BLOOM display, use longer stem post

shape, and shorter leaves that will attach

above the 'L' box top surface.)

NOTE that one best way to join this seam is

to press the square tube shape flat on working

surface (two sides on top, two on bottom),

and apply pressure along the full length rapidly

until edges are fully attached.

16. Re-configure the flat unit into a tube again,

then insert the .125" diam. wooden dowel end into

on end, and slide into place until lead end is even

with opposite cut end. NOTE this is a snug fit.

17. Mark dowel at end of paper tube, then remove

or at least slide back outward, and saw/cut at line.

Apply glue into opposite hollow end of tube,

and push dowel back fully into tube.

18. Apply quick-grab glue (such as hot melt, or Fabri-Tack)

along "top" end of stem unit where it will attach to

backside of blossom unit, then position that end

along lower center back, and hold in place until attached.

19. Prepare the stem top attachment bracket by

bending top center tab back, then adding 

backward curl at center . . .

. . . and upward curl at ends.

20. Apply glue to all of bracket backside, then

position at top of stem so that top tab bend back

to hide dowel end inside tube, and strip wraps

over stem post, with left and right ends attaching

to blossom backside. Hold in place and press

to form around stem snugly.

21. Prepare the stand by bending the upright 

back on all panel segments, flanges and tabs.

22. Position and attach each accent shape offset

within their respective panels.

23. Bend side panels back into position to position

plain side edge to overlap adjacent tab to perf line,

and join seams. NOTE it may be helpful to place

a "press-against" surface such as a stiff plexi ruler

or pencil behind the seam while joining.

Complete all four seams.

24. Position scallop accent shape on top of scallop base

shape, adjust so that base openings are centered

under accent openings, and attach in place.

25. Position anchor stack (from step 2) over center

of scallop base shapes, taking care that the post opening

edges of all are aligned as precisely as possible,

then attach in place. Press under a flat weight until

glue is dried.

26. Position tabs above base slots, then insert each

fully through to backside . . . 

. . . then bend outward and glue in place 

to base backside.

27. Apply a dab of quick-grab glue into the post

opening, then . . . 

. . . insert stem bottom end through top hole of

upright, and through interior, then move and adjust

end until . . . 

. . . it "slots into" post opening in stack

and scallop base units. Push through just until

all edges are flush.

28. Position and attach the bottom scallop shape

to hide the tabs and stem opening.

29. Position leaves on each side and attach bottom

ends to backside of stem post.

Here is the completed daffodil flower

in its stand.

30. If the 'L' box is being assembled for the BLOOM

display, use only the upright rectangular letter box

with square stem openings, then insert the long stem

variation through top of L box, across interior, then

into the bottom square opening. Apply glue to stem end

and hole, adjust so stem end is flush with bottom,

then hold in place until secure.

31. Add curl to daffodil leaves (short versions), then

position and attach at stem just above L box top.