Stitched Initial Window Heart and Floral Cards

 Create an extra special and personalized Valentine,

birthday or get well card to express love to a beloved recipient 

by cross-stitching their initial letter on the needle-holes punched 

panel that will peek through the window of multi-layered card front. 

Then embellish with hearts, flower, sprigs and vine curls. 

Search out a cross-stitch letter that will fit (centered)

 within the 22 x 22 stitches panel. 

Or, purchase/download the “Ornament Oval Poinsettia” letter 

of choice for a compatible design. 

On the card’s inside panel, consider attaching 

a sentiment “tag” or panel such as the “Tag Love You Slant” 

separate design. 

Square card measures approx. 5.75” x 5.75” 

when top- or side-fold closed.

Assembly will begin with the Hearts decoration card which

will present many steps that are common to both designs.

Stitching instruction begins in Step 8.

The Flower decoration card specific steps 

will follow, beginning in Step 17.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A card base (shown in shapes layout as side fold; 

sample project is created as top-fold)

B top frame layer

C middle frame layer

D bottom frame layer

E stitching hole-punched panel (2 for strength)

F hearts, swirl vines, ferns

2. Work over the two hole-punched panels to ensure

that all the "chads" have been removed from

the cut shapes. Use a tool that fits into the hole size

without enlarging them, such as the tapestry needle

that will be used for the stitching.

3. Obtain the stitching needle (tapestry size 24/26)

and 6-strand embroidery floss of choice.

Also procure the embroidery charted initial of choice

from other sources that will fit within the 22x22 stitches

stitching panel (suggested that one "empty" row be

left around actual design space - so 21x21 stitches max).

The sample stitched card projects uses letters from other

Hearthsewn cross-stitched project files available through

Silhouette America's online store (search as

"Ornament Oval Poinsettia") then select, purchase and

download the letter(s) of choice. NOTE that for sample card

projects shown here, letters are stitched in single color.

4. Prepare the stitching panel by layering and gluing together

(liquid glue) the two cut panels, taking supreme care

that stitching holes are lined up as precisely as possible,

along with outer panel edges.

Place the glued-up panel on a flat surface and press 

under a flat heavy object such as a thick book or

other heavy weight (or book with heavy object on top)

until thoroughly dried. This may require several hours

or overnight.

5. Become familiar with the three card front "frame"

window layers which have slightly offset edges around

outer edges and within window opening. Then . . . 

. . . use dry adhesive tape to assemble the layers.

6.  NOTE that the completed cross-stitched panel

will be centered behind the window opening of

the assembled card front, with equal plain margin

around outer holes rows and smallest window inner edge.

Then the front panels assembly will be mounted

and attached to the front panel of the folded card,

with same offset margin as is visible along edges.

7. Once card is fully assembled, the front panel

decorations will be positioned and attached in place.

Refer to the thumbnails at the beginning of this tutorial

to position ferns, swirls, whole heart and flourished heart

at the bottom left area.

STITCHING INSTRUCTIONS

8. Cut a 24-30" length of 6-strand floss, then separate

one strand (NOTE: for fuller stitches, you may try

using TWO strands separated then laid together) . . . 

. . . fold the length in half and thread the two ends

(or alternately the loop) through eye of a blunt tip darning

needle size 24/26 (recommended). Pull the two ends

part-way down - the loop will remain as the long end

and will be used to "tie on".

9. Study this diagram to understand how to form

cross stitches for uniform appearance and tension.

NOTE that the RIGHT SLANT stitches are generally

placed across the row first, followed by the LEFT SLANT

stitches placed coming back across the row.

10. Create a print out of the Ornament Oval Poinsettia

letter stitching chart if using one of those designs

(or lightly temp mark on other selected pattern)

and transfer the center lines of the full design footprint.

(In the diagram below for letter R, these are shown in red,

with the intersection center also marked/shown.)

(NOTE: after analyzing the letter design being used,

determine the best way for stitching to proceed; for the R

shown, the long row that falls below the vertical center lines

was deemed best place to begin stitching.)

Visualize the position of the 'X' of the first stitch - often accomplished

by counting back from the center intersection along

the target start row - then insert the needle

UP from backside through the top left hole of the bottom FOUR

that will create the 'X". Pull needle and thread through

leaving approx. 3-4" of loop "tail" still on backside.

Insert the needle into the bottom right hole of first 'X' . . . 

. . . and pull through until front thread is flush with surface,

and short loop remains on the backside of the panel.

Pass the needle through the loop . . .

. . . and cinch the thread up firmly on the back. 

This is the "tie on" step.

11. Continue the X stitch pattern in the next pair of holes,

inserting in the top left hole that will form the second 'X',

pulling floss through fully, then inserting needle into 

the bottom right hole that completes the RIGHT SLANT stitch.

 12. Repeat the stitching process that completes each charted 

RIGHT SLANT stitch across the remaining stitches of that row . . .

. . .  then return back across to complete 

the LEFT SLANT stitches.

13.  To continue, move down to next row to stitch the RIGHT SLANT

stitches shown on the chart, then move back along the short row

to complete the 'X' stitches.

NOTE: be aware that when the stitching continues downward as

suggested in the progression of this design, it will be

necessary to find a way to begin the first RIGHT SLANT

stitch in a manner that does NOT un-do the final 

LEFT SLANT stitch of the previous row.

14. Continue in the same manner to begin and complete

rows. When floss length on needle gets close to being

too short to continue, pause in mid stitch when needle

is pulled through to backside, then slip the needle under

the adjacent 4-5 stitches. Pull the needle fully through, then . . .

. . . remove needle and trim the excess floss close

to the stitching it crossed under.

This is "tying off".

15. To complete the R design, a new needle-load of

thread was tied-on to complete the back lower "leg", then . . .

. . . a new needle-load was tied-on to move up to

complete the remaining front top area, and then

a new needle-load was tied-on to complete right

rounded portion as final section.

You will need to analyze the selected design

to determine most straight-forward progression plan.

16. As shown previously with blank stitching panel,

the completed stitched panel is positioned behind

window and attached in place (dry adhesive recommended).

Here is the panel in final position.

And here is the card front with embellishment

decorations added.

On the inside of the card (shown top-folded)

the "love you" sentiment with panels is attached.

CARD STITCHED INITIAL WINDOW

WITH FLOWER VINES

17. Identify and cut the shapes:

A card base (shown in shapes layout as side fold; 

sample project is created as top-fold)

B top frame layer

C middle frame layer

D bottom frame layer

E stitching hole-punched panel (2 for strength)

F flowers, leaf sprigs and ferny sprig

18. Similarly to the 'R' project above, create a print out of

 the Ornament Oval Poinsettia letter stitching chart if using 

one of those designs (or lightly temp mark on other selected 

pattern) and transfer the center lines of the full design footprint.

(In the diagram below for letter J, these are shown in red,

with the intersection center also marked/shown.)

(NOTE the indication on diagram above for suggestion

about where to begin stitching the J.

Then refer to the remainder of Step 10 above to begin

and complete the charted design.

19. Prepare the decoration shapes. Add back curl to

the inner and outer petals of the large flower . . .

. . . using a narrow dowel tool and/or a stylus tip.

20. Position the narrow petal accent shape (with

petals positioned at flower petal center and

between petals as shown) and glue in place. Then . . .

. . . layer the stem/lobe accent two layers with

center holes aligned - rotate for best offset arrangement

of "stick" stems - and glue together. Then . . .

. . . position and attach on top of the other flower assembly

with center holes aligned.

As desired, insert a decorative large brad at center

or a large stud or jewel, etc.

21. Also add back curl to the small flowers, and

depress centers around holes with a large stylus end.

22. Refer to the thumbnails at the beginning of this tutorial

to position leaves and ferny sprig, large flower and

smaller flowers at the bottom left area.

Add small studs or jewels as centers for small flowers.

Here is the completed flowers cross-stitched card.

Corrugated Hearts on Sticks and Stands

 

Pleats give these hearts - large and medium plain edge,

or scalloped layered large and medium -  dimensional shape 

when .125” dowel (or bamboo skewer) is cut to size (8.5" to 10.5"

for the projects shown), then threaded through center holes. 

Trim the stick to desired length(s) then insert bottom end 

into trapezoidal base “anchor” with scalloped edge round 

platform that will allow heart to stand. 

Display on mantel, table top, as centerpiece, and more. 

 Projects as shown range from approx. 8.5" to 11.75"

when inserted in stands.

Plain large corrugated heart assembly will be described 

in detail, with stand that is the same for all four versions.

Differences will be noted and illustrated, for scalloped

versions beginning in Step 15.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A heart (lrg) with pleat perforations, stick holes

B stand box hull   C box accents (1 heart, 2 plain)

D stand base scalloped circle with slots

E stand base build up shapes for thickness (3)

F stand box top reinforcement "collar" (5)

G stand box base reinforcment "collar" (5)

H .125" diam. wooden dowel, "stained" pink

2. Complete the glue-up of the layered-for-thickness

shapes so they can be curing:

A) layer and glue together the scalloped base shapes,

taking care to align and match up ALL cut edges

as precisely as possible.

Immediately place the glue-up stack on a flat surface

under a flat heavy weight such as this thick book (or 2)

and leave until thoroughly dried (several hours or

overnight). Pressing in this manner will help

minimize minimize warping or curing of the stack.

B) In the same manner, glue-up two stacks of 5 each

of the collar reinforcements, taking care to align

cut edges, particularly the center stick opening.

Check to make sure that the stick can fit through

the stick opening. Then press under flat weight.

3. Prepare the stand box shape by bending back

on all panel edges, but bending forward bottom tabs.

4. Position and attach the accent panels on the front

of the hull within the edges or perforation lines

that define each of the four side walls, centering

and leaving even narrow margin all around (offset).

Press and allow to dry.

5. On the underside of the box hull, and the top

of the scalloped circle base with slots, position

a collar stack, using strong adhesive.

Check to make sure that the stick can fit through

the stick opening.

6. Form the hull shape into a box form by bending

the side edges up to overlay straight side edge

across adjacent flange tab to align at perforation line,

and glue side seam. Repeat for remaining 3 side seams.

7. Insert the box hull bottom tabs into scallop circle

top layer base slots, and push fully through to backside.

Bend tabs outward and glue in place.

8. Position the box hull/base top layer onto

the base build up assembly, adjust to align outer

edges precisely, then glue in place. Use flat weights

on flat surface, or folio clips, etc., to help thorough 

attachment of outer edges.

9. Prepare corrugated heart shape by bending

back along the bottom tiny perforation line,

then forward on the second line, back on third, etc.,

until all perforation lines have been bent.

10. Cut and prepare the .125" stick: cut to desired 

length for your display needs, then apply paint color

if desired by applying with paper towel, then quickly

rubbing off so that stick is only "stained" and size

is NOT affected.

NOTE: these stick suggested cut lengths update those

lengths suggested in the online design descriptions:

med plain stick 8.5"     med scalloped stick 9"

lrg plain stick 10.5"    lrg scalloped stick 11"

11. Beginning at bottom again, place the stick behind

the tip, then insert through the bottom hole, then

continue through successive holes . . .

. . . until stick is threaded through all pleat holes.

When the stick has exited through the final hole

it will be on the backside of the pleated heart,

and rest behind and touching the panel above.

12. Adjust the pleats so that they are even - with post

touching panel above top hole, ease the pleats downward

until the stick hole resists further downward adjustment

(using reg. printed-on-two-sides cardstock weight)

to achieve heart's final length. Or, to the suggested

finished lengths shown in the following 3 diagrams:

Large plain heart

Medium plain heart

Medium (top) and Large scalloped hearts

13. To assist keeping the heart stable and drawn out

to desired finish length, add a dab of thick quick grab

glue such as Fabri-Tack used here at top of stick, and . . .

. . . also behind tip panel, then apply pressure

to these two places until glue holds. 

14. Insert the stick bottom end through the top

of the stand box, down through the interior, then

"fish" around until the end finds and can be "seated"

into the platform collar hole.

NOTE: add glue to the stick tip before inserting through

top hole if a permanent attachment is desired.

Without the glue, the hearts can be disassembled for storage. 

Here is the large plain heart in its stand.

15. For the scalloped hearts versions as shown,

prepare the scalloped main heart and its coordinated

overlay inner heart as described for pleating in Step 9.

With the pleating spread in the approximate target length,

apply glue to the backside of the inner heart, then

position it over the front of scalloped heart, aligning

the top holes of each as a reference, then . . . 

. . . fitting mountain and valley folds of each layer's pleating

so they fit neatly together - always aligning holes.

16. Repeat the stick prep and hole threading as described

in Steps11 & 12.

Repeated image: suggested adjusted lengths:

medium (top) and large scalloped hearts.

17. Refer to Steps 13-14 to complete the scalloped

hearts versions.

Here is the large scalloped project.