Folk
style Santa is a dimensional box composed of
lid and base that fit together.
Beard, face, hat fur trim, and cubic dimensional arms
make him festive.
Add
special touches for more fun:
flesh tone-painted bead nose
and tiny jingle bell
at hat point.
Santa box measures approx. 7.375” tall x 2” deep
x 2.25” wide
when completed and closed.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main hull (head)
B & C front coat overlays D back coat overlay
E left & right sleeve/arm structures with fur pieces
F face overlay G beard overlay
H eye contrast underlay with cheek insert circle
I hat buffer shapes (helps hat fit at proper level)
For dimensional nose, use a small wood bead
approx. 11/32" (9mm) with hole filled in with glue
or wood putty, etc. A substitute fold-over circle can
be used in place of bead if desired.
NOTE: A similar project can be reviewed for
additional assembly photos by following
2. Prepare the head main hull shape by bending back
on all perforation lines for panels, flanges.
(NOTE that this version is altered to have bottom
triangular floor panel attach to back panel
(see next image).
3. Position and attach the front 2 coat and back coat
overlays onto the face side of the main hull, with
overlay straight edges aligned along perforation
lines that define the panels, including bottom edges
or bottom perforation line. Allow to dry thoroughly
and press flat if using liquid adhesive.
4. Form the hull into a tube to bring straight side front
edge to overlap opposite side flange to perf line,
adjust for top-to-bottom alignment, then join seam.
5. At bottom, bend flanges in, apply adhesive,
then tuck flanges up inside pyramid tube and
attach behind front walls.
Apply pressure to assist with joining.
6. Prepare face overlay by bending in half at
center perforation line.
7. Bend eye contrast underlay at center perf line
and attach behind eye openings at the inside
of front walls, with perf line bends tucked
snugly together.
8. Position and attach face overlay on hull front,
with bend aligned exactly over corresponding
body bend, and with top straight cut edges aligned
with hull top straight edges. Make sure that
the eye and nose openings of all applicable layers
line up as precisely as possible.
9. Repeat the face overlay process with the beard
overlay.
10. Position and attach cheek circles into the circle
recesses of face overlay.
11. Prepare for hat assembly by layering and attaching
the hat rim buffer insert shapes into (3) pairs,
aligning all cut edges as precisely as possible.
Press under a heavy flat weight until dry.
12. Bend back on all perforation lines for
hat at panel edges and top tabs and "roof".
(After Step 13 the hat will be completely formed
as shown.)
13. Position and attach a buffer stack at backside
bottom edge of TWO of the triangle panels
which are next to the hat's side flange tab,
aligning straight bottom edges of each, and
taking care that side angle edge are within angled
perforation lines. The third stack will be similarly
positioned and attached after the side seam
is joined, so it can be attached on top of seam flange.
14. At top of hat (shown here before side seam is
closed) the tiny tabs should be bent inward,
the triangle tip panel folded down to attach in place
and close hat tip.
15. Bend the hat fur shape back on perf lines,
then position and attach so that the end-to-end gap
falls at any corner that is not center front.
16. Prepare the sleeve/arm shape by bending back
on all perforation lines for panels and tabs.
17. Form the center portions into a ring to bring
the straight edge around to overlap tab to perforation
line, adjust for alignment of other edges or cross
perforations, etc., and glue seam.
18. At sleeve end, bend the side and end tabs
in at perpendicular angle, apply glue, then tuck
down inside of sleeve until end panel is even
with top of "tube".
NOTE that it may be helpful to use a tool inside
the narrow tube to assist with applying pressure
along seams.
19. Bend the fur strips on perf line, then wrap around
sleeve tube at end with bends aligned, and glue
in place. Place strips so they run end to end
around the tube.
Finally, position and attach the end fur "ring"
on sleeve end.
20. Bend inward edge tabs trio inward at perpendicular
angle, then audition (dry fit) their positioning on body.
NOTE that the top of sleeves should be parallel
to tabletop - not angled - when they are in correct
left/right position.
Then apply quick-grab glue such as
FabriTack shown here to bent-inward tabs, and also
to the rounded unbent back tab.
Fit and attach to back side body angle so that . . .
. . . front top corner falls just below beard edge . . .
. . . with back tab laying flat on back panel.
21. Position and attach opposite arm
so that top edges are on same virtual line.
22. To close box, orient hat with seams toward
one of back sides, then slide over top of hull.
23. To attach small jingle bell, thread a length of
twine onto a darning needle (smallest possible that
accepts twine) then insert needle through the pair
of holes at hat tip, and carefully pull twine through.
String bell loop onto twine and tie in neat knot
and bow; trim excess ends.
24. Prepare (fill, sand) nose wood bead, then paint
to match face color. When dry, apply quick-grab
glue to the nose hole edges, then . . .
. . . push the bead into the recess and hold
in place until secure.
As alternative, the substitute circle shape can be
bent at center and glued in place to cover
the nose hole.
Here is the completed pyramid Santa with arms,
front view, and . . .
. . . back view.
. . . on the front side.
4. Position and attach front flap overlay with
5. Bend the side flange under, then form the sack
Fold long and short tabs inward.
Apply glue to the tabs, then bend bottom panel
. . . apply pressure until secure.
9. Position center square (contrast in this version)
10. Next, position the four cut squares into
11. Position the pairs of crescent leaves,
12. Thread a length of twine down-and-up through
Here is the finished, closed gift sack.
