This
three-sided stand has cubby shelves where
“plank” boxes fit and attach at top
and bottom
to spell out “days ‘til Halloween”.
In center space, two numbered
blocks
(plus an extra to complete all combinations required)
are rotated
to display the counted down days ‘til Halloween.
Interior construction makes it
sturdy enough
to store then use year after year.
Decorate sides with overlays
cut from
favorite Halloween print.
Stand box measures approx. 7.5” wide x
6.5”
tall x 3.75” deep.
If desired, add a pair of bats from “Bat on Wire”
(separate
design) to spookily hover above.
Find the tutorial for that project HERE.
File includes vinyl lettering and numerals if
preferred
to cut and attach to plain numbers block.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A & B cross shelf with layered shapes to build up
thickness (9-10 layers each according to Step 2 slot test)
C slot and strips for thickness testing
D upper "plank" with 'days 'til' stencil cut out
E contrast strip to place behind words cut outs
F interior 'W' support strips
G upper "plank" with 'days 'til' stencil cut out
H contrast backside strip to place behind words cut outs
I interior 'W' support strips
J & M block shapes with add-on panel, number cut outs
L & O interior slotted strut interior supports
K & N contrast backside panels for number cut outs
(NOTE: alternative vinyl letters and words are included
in cut file to replace block shapes with cut outs;
alternatives also included for word planks)
IMPORTANT: when weeding the word cut out planks,
be sure to save the interior shapes of letters shown
below; also, retain the letter cut outs to assist placement
of interior shapes. (Interior "fall thru" shapes NOT shown below.)
A third set of shapes for block #3 should also be cut
to provide numbers for required countdown.
STAND SHAPES:
S back panel for stand T interior back panel stand
U left & right side panels
V left & right interior side panels
W left & right accent panels
X left & right wall front edge boxing strips
Y support strips: 4 short, 2 mid, 4 long
Z base edge panel AA corner reinforcements (4)
BB base under panel
DD bottom plank (fits into base between stand walls)
EE bottom plank interior supports
stack to adequately fill the cross shelves,
stack the test strips, then . . .
. . . insert through the test slot. Determine how many layers
will fit and fill the slot, then cut that quantity
for each shelf unit, for side front, center front,
center back shapes as shown below.
(As an example, the sample project used Bazzill
plain black cardstock, which used 9 layers to fit snugly.)
Layer and glue the stacks for each cross shelf,
taking care to align ALL cut edges as precisely
as possible.
Place glued up stacks under heavy flat weight
until completely dry, several hours or overnight.
(This helps prevent warping or curling of
glued-up shapes.)
3. Prepare the cross shelf shapes by carefully bending back
on the two closely-spaced cross perforation lines.
NOTE that the half with the back tabs is the TOP.
This image shows how the stack of straight strips,
glued together and pressed, will fit enclosed,
at the double-fold edge to make the shelf sturdy
and fit into the stand mortise slots.
4. Open the shelf shape flat, then position & glue the glued-up
stacks along the edges as shown, with long stack
along the back, side shaped stacks at sides abutted to long,
short stack along perforation fold between side stacks.
Press the assembly flat until thoroughly dry.
Repeat for second shelf unit.
5. Apply glue to stack shape faces, then fold the shelf
over . . .
. . . to snugly enclose the stacks inside. NOTE that
side and bottom edges of ALL shapes (excluding tabs)
should align up precisely, as though the shelf is
one "whole" thick unit.
6. Prepare the 2 word cut out plank boxes by bending back
on all perforation lines for panels, side, front, back panels
and tabs.
Position the contrast strip behind the words panel . . .
. . . (now shown from backside) and glue in place.
NOTE one good way to do this is to apply liquid
glue at word cut out edges, then apply glue to
strip face edge ONLY, then position and attach.
To complete the words, turn plank shape face side up
and temporarily replace the saved letter shape into
their respective cut out spaces.
Next, position and glue the "fall-thru" shapes in place.
Finally, carefully lift the letter shapes away, leaving
the fall-thru shapes in place. Apply additional pressure
as needed to ensure that fall-thru's stay in place.
7. Bend side walls back to align and join 4 corner
seams, creating a tray that is TOP of box.
8. To help the box be sturdy, prepare the 'W' strut support
strips pair by bending at center perforation lines
and end tab line; also bend top and bottom tabs
forward. Position plain edge end edge of shorter strip
along end tab perforation of other strip,
and join seam. Take care to align top, bottom edges
across long assembly to ensure continuous edge.
Here is the prepared strut. The right finger indicates
the ends that will be positioned at back corners of box,
and the left finger indicates the triangle of space where
the Bat on Wire box (small version) would be placed,
to be directly under . . .
. . . the wire holes of the "roof" panel.
Small dash-defined poke-hole marks can be found
on the roof panel. If NOT adding the bat decorations,
ignore the marks.
If intending to use the bat decorations,
use an awl or other equivalent tool to carefully
poke a small hole no larger than heavy gauge wire
used to suspend paper bat.
9. Add glue to first side's set of edge tabs, then
position the 'W' strut into the box's interior, with
ends positioned into back corners, with remainder
adjusted to be more or less centered.
Apply pressure to attach tabs.
10. If using the bats, position the prepared box "stand"
(small version) into the angle so that the poke holes
of each will align.
Then glue in place, after . . .
. . . ensuring that the wire holes indeed do align.
One way to do this is to use an unfolded standard
paper clip end to push through both hole layers,
then apply backside pressure to attach box surface
to backside of top panel.
11. Close the box by bending edge flange tabs inward,
applying glue to these, then fold box into place,
tucking side tabs of "lid" down inside walls.
12. Repeat Steps 7-11 to complete the lower plank box
in similar manner, attending to capital letters with
fall-thru letter interior shapes, and omitting wire poke holes.
13. Prepare the base plank box in a similar manner
to word cut out boxes. Also prepare the two interior
support strips by bending edge flange tabs forward.
14. Insert each support to tray of prepared box,
and attach at one-third division perforation guide lines,
gluing one long tab and end tabs in place. Then . . .
. . . bend lid down into position to attach in place.
15. Create 3 different number boxes:
Prepare the number box shapes by bending back
on all panel and edge flange tab perforation lines.
Position and attach the add-on section . . .
. . . by aligning flange tab perforation line at
appropriate straight edge of main hull, adjusting
for precise side-to-side alignment with corresponding
panel perforation lines defining panel above,
and gluing in place.
16. Position and attach the contrast backside panels
behind the number cut outs of all box panels . . .
. . .referring to suggested method for doing
this neatly as described in Step 6 NOTE.
Here is the prepared full numbers block panel.
17. Form the panel into a tube to align and join
side seam.
NOTE that this shape can be flattened to apply
fingertip pressure along the seam. Take care
that panels remain precisely aligned.
True-up the box's shape, then bend bottom panel
into place to align edges and join to flange tabs.
Reach fingertips inside box to help apply pressure
along three seamed edges.
18. Prepare the interior support 'X' strut by sliding
the two panels together at center slot (one slot
faces up, the other down).
Insert into the box interior with strip ends fitting into
corners as shown.
Push fully into box, then . . .
. . . close final panel into position and glue seams.
NOTE that there are 3 number boxes required to
"spell out" the required "days left" 'til Halloween . . .
. . . when the "extra" box will count down the '30'
and a few other numbers. Hide the extra box away
when not being used.
BASE PLATFORM
19. Prepare the base shape by bending back on
all perforation for sides, end tab and wedge tab,
interior recess support flanges.
NOTE that the base has a shaped outer edge
including a slanted face connecting the horizontal
top ledge to the vertical side walls.
Invert the base shape to position and attach the 'L'
reinforcement shapes behind the corner of horizontal
face defined by perforation lines, located just past
the inner "miter" cut at corners.
20. Bend the side walls down slightly at corner
to tuck wedge tab under the opposite straight
angled edge to join the first segment of this seam,
taking the time needed to apply fingertip pressure
to securely join this short seam. Then . . .
. . . bend the second segments of the seam
together in similar manner to join . . .
. . . this portion of the seam.
Finally, bend the bottom tabs under and inward,
interior tabs down to perpendicular.
STAND ASSEMBLY
21. Prepare each of the interior support posts by
bending back on all perforation for long wall panels,
end "caps", triangle tabs.
NOTE that the end segment (wider than walls) will
act as a diagonal support "strut" inside the post, and is
marked for identification with a small "bite" notch.
22. Bend the post shaft portion into a tube, with
the "strut" panel angling toward bend #3 as shown.
Then continue to wrap the segments into a tube,
with the final tube aligning with a side wall.
Glue the seam to attach final segment
as though it is a long flange tab.
Apply fingertip pressure fully along this face
until smooth and secure. Adjust shape until
the post is "squared up", then . . .
. . . fold triangle tabs inward at ends,
bend end cap down into position and glue
in place. Make sure at each step that post
retains a "squared up" shape - important for
the on-going assembly accuracy.
23. Prepare the stand center back wall by bending
back on two perforation lines.
Position inside center back panel top edge
(indicated by tiny arrow head symbol within panel)
along outer back wall's flange perforation, adjust
for side to side alignment, and join seam.
24. Prepare the left & right side walls in similar manner,
bending also at top wall face inward tab, and outer wall
backside bracket flange tab.
Position inner wall top edge along outer wall flange tab,
adjust and attach.
(NOTE that left & right walls should BOTH be assembled
through the following steps.
25. Position and attach the outer side wall accent shape
at the upper portion of wall, with slight offset margin
at front, back and top edges, with larger margin remaining
at bottom edge where stand walls will be hidden
inside base recess opening.
If using liquid adhesive, press accent shape
assembly until thoroughly dry to prevent warping.
26. Prepare the front wall edge shape by first adding
front curl to the upper segment at the multi-cut tabs area
using a rod-like tool such as this .25" diam dowel.
Then bend flange tabs and multi-tabs back, as
well as bending back at perf line dividing top segment.
27. Position the front wide slots edges of edge shape
and inward wall and join the 3 segments, taking care
to ensure that the edges at mortise slots are
precisely aligned.
28. Next, swing the shaped upper segment in place
to align with curved panel edge, adjust, then
join the curved seam, and finally . . .
. . . the short top seam.
29. Position and attach the front wall edges
in similar manner.
NOTE that it may be helpful to insert a "press against"
surface behind the tab and seam, such as an acrylic
ruler or yardstick end.
30. Apply glue to appropriate short post faces,
then insert one at approx. center of wall assembly . . .
. . . pushing it all the way in until it presses against
the front wall edge face. NOTE that post end may
get hung up on assembly tabs inside, so some
manipulation may be required.
31. Repeat the process to position a second short
post at bottom edge of wall assembly, so that post
and wall bottom edges are exactly aligned.
32. Position and attach a long post at the back end
of wall assembly to be even with inner wall, top face and
bottom edges, leaving a cardstock-thickness tiny margin
between back post edge and bracket tab perforation line
as "wrap" allowance for future assembly step.
33. Position tall post at center back inward (slotted)
panel, at underside of panel, with post top aligned
at edge perforation line where back wall will
eventually wrap over top of post. Align post exactly
at side edge. Repeat with a second post at
opposite side edge.
34. Position and attach medium length posts
at bottom panel edge, and one at approx. center.
35. Assemble side walls to center walls at
bracket tabs, by overlapping center back wall
side straight edges over bracket tab to perforation
line, adjust for top-to-bottom alignment, then . . .
. . . apply pressure to join seam. Before seam is
fully attached, check to make sure that the side wall
can easily be bent at right angle.
36. Using a reliable quick-grab glue such as Fabri-Tack
as shown here, and working quickly,
apply adhesive along the exposed
back face of the side panel assembly post. Also . . .
. . . add glue to post faces of back panel assembly.
Bend side walls inward to attach post faces to back wall.
Wrap back inward wall over side wall thickness,
NOTING how there will be a "miter" edge connection
at top corner.
Manipulate walls into their best positions, with post
surfaces flush and connecting to adjacent surfaces, etc.
Hold or prop in finished position until glue is fully set.
Here, fabric wrapped repurposed free weight bars
(or books, wood planks, etc.) can be snugly pressed
against side walls to help hold assembly in shape.
FINISH ASSEMBLY
38. Apply quick-grab adhesive where stand and base
inward walls will touch, then carefully ease the walls
assembly into the base's interior recess.
Push downward fully into place, check to make sure
walls are flush with base recess edges, then hold
in place until glue is fully dry.
39. Apply glue to base plank box, then insert into
the recess between stand walls and base, push down
fully and attach in place. NOTE that plank top surface
should be flush with base top surface.
40. At bottom position and attach bottom cover,
centered, to strengthen and hide bottom assembly.
40. Proceed with assembly by first applying glue
to bottom and sides of "Halloween" plank, then
carefully sliding into place (to minimize glue spread)
at bottom of stand.
Next, position first cross shelf unit - with tabs upward -
and slide into place with front edges inserted in
mortise slots at front.
Slide toward back where tabs
can insert into back wall slots. Glue in place.
41. Repeat the cross shelf insertion step for second
unit at upper mortise and slots. Then . . .
. . . position and attach the top plank.
42. With the assembly complete, place the appropriate
blocks with number facing outward into the cubby
created by the two cross shelves.
Here is the completed stand project.
43. If desired, insert the wire end of Bat on Wire figure
into the top plank poke hole, fish around to get
wire end to insert through interior support, then
push down into solidified hot melt glue at center
of washers stack. NOTE it may help the wire end
to insert into glue to heat it first, by pressing against
a hot iron or above a candle or match flame,
for instance.
Here is the completed stand with pair of bats.
