Mummy 3D on A Spring

This classic Halloween character’s raggy look 

comes from loose weave fabric strips 

draped over oval dimensional head, 

with moss tucked into tie at the neck. 

Hexagon “button” nose (from paper) and beady eyes 

from beneath the wraps (shown using 1/4” wood 

furniture buttons; other options possible). 

Spiral spring seems to support the mummy’s head, 

though the center hex post wrapped around 

a 5/16” diam. wood dowel length really does, 

anchored in a twelve-sided shallow platform base. 

Add one of the “Halloween Tags Pair”, 

and the bats disc accent or spider disc (the latter 

available as separate Halloween Coaster discs design). 

Mummy project measures approx. 8.125” tall x 4.75” wide 

x 4.75” deep (base measurements). 

ASSEMBLY: A. Obtain gauzy white fabric

and cut into six or so approx. 1" wide strips

from selvage to selvage (approx. 44" long);

cut strips in half lengthwise to yield 12 half lengths.

If fabric is too white, consider tea or Rit taupe dye

to adjust color as shown here (very weak dye bath used).

Original fabric is shown right, with dyed and dried strips left.

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A head front   B head back   C back opening cove

D nose shape  E head interior support

F shoulder ovals (8-9 for build up)

G head top post anchor (6 for build up)

H post strip  I post collar (spacer)

J platform LID with walls attached

K  platform BASE  with walls attached

L platform support strip

M base hexagon anchor (6 for build up)

N platform scalloped disc accent

O bat accent disc  P spring spiral

Q spring accent spiral

R tag components: base, ring reinforcement,

'OH' and 'mummy!' word shapes

2. Prepare the layered shapes to let them dry

completely before assembly:

a. layer shoulders ovals and glue together,

taking care that all cut edges line up as exactly

as possible.

Use a flat weight such as this fabric-wrapped

re-purposed free weight placed on top of the stacked

shape to help keep it flat while liquid glue dries,

and to help minimize warping and curling.

b. Layer the head anchor shapes and attach together,

matching all cut edges carefully. 

Use weight to press flat while the anchor dries.

c. Layer and attach together hexagon post (bottom)

anchors, taking care that all cut edges line up

(especially the hexagon interior edges). Use

flat weight to press while the anchor dries.

3. Identify the guide mark cuts on the accent scallop

shape: on the left is the tail location guide mark dashes,

and at center is the 'bend' location guide mark dash.

Also locate the tiny wedge 'arrow' indicator that

is part of the hexagon center cut out edge,

which indicates the front of the platform.

4. Position and attach the accent disc, selecting

the front of the disc. Press under a flat weight until dry.

5. Position the accent spiral on top of the spring shape,

centering it down the center, with the inner rounded end

aligned at the dash marks near spiral base's center,

and the tail end a little bit short of the spiral base's end . . .

. . . and glue in place. Use a flat weight if desired

to keep flat while it dries.

6. Prepare the head front shape by bending back

on all perforation lines for sections, tabs and

wedge tabs, etc.

7. Bend two adjacent sections back on the perforation

line of the face panel, overlapping the straight cut edge

over the adjacent tab to the perforation line, and 

glue the seam first segments, and then . . . 

. . . the second segment in the sequence,

and hold with pressure until joined.

8. Repeat for each two-part seam all around the head.

9. Prepare the nose shape by bending back on

all perforation lines for sections and tabs.

10. Bend the segments back, overlap edge to

perforation line of adjacent tab (in similar manner

to the head front two-part seam) and join seam.

Repeat for the remaining 5 seams all around.

11. Position the nose dome form so that it can

be inserted from behind the head shape . . . 

. . . then insert through the hexagon opening

and push into place until the edge tab perfs

align with the hexagon opening edges.

Glue the tabs to the backside of the face panel.

12. Identify the arrow symbol cut into the top tab

of the head back shape that will assist in

accurate orientation of head front and back.

13. Bend the adjacent segments back to join

the one-part seams all around, in similar manner

as with the head front.

14. Position the head front and head back 

so that they are back-to-back, with top edges

adjacent, then overlap the straight edge of front head

over the top tab (with symbol) to the perf line,

adjust for side-to-side alignment, then join.

15. Position the top post anchor stack inside

the head assembly top panel, and glue in place.

16. For eyes, select a pair of wood "furniture

buttons" such as these 1/4" buttons purchased

at Hobby Lobby, and paint black (sample is also

finished with a clear shiny coat). Or obtain

large black beads or equivalent (cut the appropriate

head front shape with smaller eye position guide holes).

Position and securely glue in place, inserting

the shanks into the openings.

17. Prepare the interior support panel as shown

(it has been modified slightly in the final design)

with all edge tabs bent back.

18. Identify the wide point at the side front head . . .

. . . then apply liquid adhesive to the front (divided)

edge flange tabs and the angle tab on each side of it,

and insert the reinforcement panel into the head front

so that the flanges can attach to the head walls

above OR below the angle.

19. Apply adhesive to the remaining reinforcement

flanges, and also to the remaining back head tabs

(bend these inward slightly first), then close the head front

and back together, tucking the tabs inside head front.

Working quickly, check and make small adjustments

so that the head front straight edges overlap

the tabs to the perf lines as precisely as possible.

Hold in place until dry.

20. Prepare the post strip shape by carefully bending

back on each of the long perforation lines.

21. Form the strip into a tube, using a 5/16" wooden

dowel length as a form inside, and overlap the straight

long edge over the opposite flange to the perf line,

and glue in place. 

Work fingertip pressure along the seam edge to

continue to force the edge into position and

to attach until the seam is secure.

22. Slide the tube to the end of the dowel . . . 

. . . then mark the opposite end of the tube with pencil.

Remove tube to hand saw the dowel length to size,

then replace the tube over dowel and glue in place.

23. Apply glue to the post top end.

Insert the post from bottom up through shoulders

build up shape center hexagon, then . . . 

. . . insert top end through the head bottom hexagon

opening, taking care to orient the tube so that

the shoulder oval aligns with head lengthwise 

(side to side).

Slide the post end through the interior reinforcement

center hexagon, and up to rest securely in

the hexagon depression of the top anchor build up

at head top center. Hold in place until secure.
24. Slide the shoulders oval up to touch the head 
and glue in place.

25. Prepare the post wrap space by bending back

on all vertical and horizontal perforation marks.

26. Position the shape with the end tabs downward,

with the top edge touching the bottom of the oval,

then wrap around the post and glue in place.

(NOTE bottom tabs remain unglued.)

27. Apply glue to the back panel margin,
and to the interior reinforcement flange tab,
then position and attach the cover in place.

28. Prepare the platform LID shape by bending

back on all attached wall panels, and other tab

perforations as shown. Bend the center hex opening

wedge tabs back, using a rounded pointed tool

such as this spatula handle tip into the hex to

open it completely. (Post end will insert here later.)

Also note the triangle symbol that shows the front

of the platform LID.

29. Position the accent scallop and bat disc

centered on the front of the LID, with center hex

openings aligned, and attach in place.

Use flat weight to press during drying, if desired.

30. Bend the wall extensions into place with wedge

tabs tucked under platform panel, end tabs tucked

under the adjacent short wall straight edge, and glue seams.

Repeat for the remaining six edges and seams.

31. Locate the tail position guide marks (left)

and bend guide mark (top), then . . . 

. . . bend the spring assembly at the base perf mark . . .

. . . and position the outer ring so that the tail

and bend align at the marks, with outer edge roughly

centered inside scalloped edge, and glue

the outer ring in place. (NOTE that

the rest of the spiral is NOT attached to the platform)

32. Identify the front arrow symbol on the platform BASE

shape, and also the hexagon post position guide marks.

With the inside face of platform BASE up, position

the anchor hexagon with the opening's edges

aligned at hex guide marks, and glue in place securely.

33. Align and join the attached wall segment seams

in same fashion as for the LID shape.

34. Prepare the platform support strip by bending

back on each of the segment perf lines,

and also bend back the top and bottom rounded

tabs, and the strip end tab.

35. Form the support into a ring to 

align and join seam.

36. Position and attach the ring inside to the underside

of the BASE shape, centered around the hexagon

anchor. 

37. Apply adhesive to the ring top tabs,

and to the BASE walls outer surface,

then 'close' the platform by inserting the BASE

inside the bottom of the LID. Apply pressure

all around to walls and to top/bottom until secure.

38. Apply glue to the end of post, then insert

into the BASE until it 'seats' into the anchor,

and hold in place until secure. (Check to make sure

the post is perpendicular to the platform as it dries)

39. Carefully slide the spring center up the post

until it can be attached to the collar tabs to hold in place.

Here is the completed mummy before strips.

40. Position approx. center of first strip across face area

below nose, and lightly glue in place.

Use a thin tool such as a plastic ruler or spatula

to tuck the strip part way between ovals and head bottom.

Continue to position strips artistically over head

to keep face exposed . . .

. . .tacking in place with quick dry

glue. When the face portion is complete.

continue to add a few more strips to cover head

completely. (NOTE that the sample project uses

10-12 half strips.)

41. Give mummy a little definition between head

and neck oval by tying a length of "matched" twine

and knotting; trim ends away.

42. Decide how long strip ends should be, then

trim each at random, slightly different lengths

and angled ends, all around.

Here is the mummy completed to this stage.

43. If desired, add spanish moss glued in place

around the neck indentation.

44. If desired, prepare the OH mummy! tag.

Assembly: position and attach the reinforcement

accent shape over punch hole.

Position and attach the 'OH' shape,

and overlap the 'mummy!' shape.

For better visual definition, consider carefully

coloring the exclamation point with felt tip marker.

Position and attach the tag near neck.

(NOTE that the sample project has the twine

tied into a bow prior to attaching.)

Here is the completed sample project.

BOO!