Needles 'n' Knowledge: Pumpkin 3D Wavy Mesh Wedges

(Requires 12x12 cutting capacity.)

Six dimensional skeleton frame wedges are built

then wavy mesh overlays attached (and cross members

clipped out). These are attached to layered top and

bottom hex ends supported through the center with

a hexagon tube which encases a 3/4” diam. wooden dowel.

(Interior interlocking strut strips can replace

the dowel if preferred.) A pair of layered leaves are

jute-twine tied to the dimensional, curved stem

(1/2” diam. dowel supports the lower portion).

Add optional “found” berries stem or other

seasonal decorations to complete the ensemble.

Pumpkin measures approx. 6.75” wide x 7.5” deep

x 10.75” tall including the stem.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A wedge "skeleton" (6) B wedge bottom section (6)
C & D wedge side flanges (6 right; 6 left)
E wedge grille overlay (6) F bottom post anchor hex (6-7)
G bottom power anchor whole
H top post anchor hex (6-7) I top post anchor whole hex
J stem shape K stem collar (2) (NOTE: these shapes
were cut from darker card stock for final project)
L stem base hex shapes (1 top; 1 bottom)
M post wrap shape N opt. dowel replacement struts
O smaller leaf build up shapes (5-6), contrast top layer
& vein accent layer
P large leaf build up shapes (5-6), contrast top layer
& vein accent layer

2. Prepare the shapes that need to be layered,

glued up and pressed to dry completely so they

can be ready when needed farther along during

the construction sequence:

LEAVES: Layer small leaf main shapes, taking care to align

all cut edges, and glue together.

Use flat weight such as this fabric covered repurposed
weight machine bar to press the stack while it dries.

Layer the contrast shape on top, then . . .

. . . the vein accent top shape, then press again

until completely dry.

Repeat for the large leaf.
This image shows both leaves layered and complete
to demonstrate thickness of the completed leaves.

B) layer the base hexagons in the same manner,

taking care that all cut edges -- especially the inner

hexagon opening -- are lined up as precisely

as possible. Press under a flat weight until dry.

Position and attach the contrast whole hexagon
on the bottom of the stack. Press until dry.

C) Repeat for the post top hexagons, stacking

and attaching the main shapes, then . . .

. . . position and attach the whole shape on top
of the stack; press until dry.

D) Layer the stem base hexagons with the outer
edges aligned, attach and press until dry.

Here is the stem hexagon as seen from the bottom,
showing the recess where stem tabs will fit.

3. Before beginning the wedge construction,

get familiar with the perforations that will work

to shape it. Here, the cross beam perforations

are indicated.

Locate the side perforation cuts on cross beams

that line up with the "window" opening edges.

These are guidelines for when the beams are

eventually hand-trimmed away.

4. Carefully bend back along each of the beam
perforation lines.

Once the bend is started, it may be helpful to

finger crease to ensure crisp uniform bends.

Also bend back on the bottom and top end tabs.

Repeat for all 6 wedges.

5. Position and attach the end extension section

to the bottom of each of the six main wedges.

6. Prepare each of the left and right wedge arc flanges

by bending back each segment tab.

Also locate the single perf cut across the arc shape

and bend back slightly at each.

Identify the top of the right arc flange by finding the tiny 'T'

cut into the cross wall tab.

Also locate the top "cross" flange and bend

back at the two-cut perforation line.

Also locate the bend back the short bottom

cross flange.

7. Position the largest center section of the wedge
alongside the corresponding large center tab of arc,
overlap wedge straight edge to tab perforation line,
make sure that ends of "seam" match up
(i.e. cross beam perf line aligns with the cross hatch
of arc bend), then glue the seam.

NOTE it may be helpful to lay this seam flat

on table top and finger press to secure it.

(Its the only one that can be pressed flat!)

8. Bend wedge and arc slightly to align, position

and glue the next segments of the seam.

NOTE the fit will be snug, so it may be helpful

to work on 2-3 segments at once to make sure

the alignment stays right.

9. Continue to fit, align and join each segment

along the edge, moving toward top of wedge.

10. Bend the cross flange across the underside
of the top tab, and glue in place.
(Cross flange perf line will align at end tab perf line.)

11. Move to the lower portion of the right flange arc

to continue to position, adjust and attach each

to corresponding segment of wedge.

12. Bend the bottom cross beam and attach

to the end edge of the wedge.

13. Repeat the process to position and attach

the left side arc in the same manner, beginning

at center and working up and down to complete

attachment of each tab.

14. At the ends, tuck the tab under the cross beam
and glue in place. NOTE: the tight corners may
require using a tool to be able to apply pressure
in tight space.

15. Prepare each grille overlay by locating the short

perf cut lines, then bend along the line . . .

. . . folding back flat and creasing.

Grille overlay will look like this when all bends are made.

16. Prepare to attach grille overlay to wedge assembly

by either applying glue to the inward half of the side

skeleton ONLY (do NOT glue the cross beams

to grille), or apply glue to the solid edge of the grille.

17. Position the center portion of the grille
over the corresponding center portion of
framework, aligning the bends of grill and
cross beams. Then . . .

. . . continue to quickly wrap the grill upward to align
each grille perf bend with cross beam bends,
keeping grille overlay centered, and attach in place.

Then move to lower portion to wrap and attach

the grille overlay in place.

Allow the glue to dry thoroughly.

18. Use sharp scissors to carefully trim away

the beams along the side perf lines, first on one side . . .

. . . then on the left to remove cross beam.

Here is the wedge assembly with the first beam
trimmed away.
(If preferred, beams can be left in place.)

19. Continue to carefully cut away each

of the remaining 4 beams (5 total per wedge).

Here is a comparison of wedge with and without beams

as ween from backside, and . . .

. . . from front.

20. Complete the assembly of all 6 wedge units.

21. Prepare the beam wrap shape by bending back

on each long perforation line for wall sections,

side flange tab, end hex caps and tabs.

22. Form the post shape into a tube to overlap

the straight side edge over the long flange to

perforation line, and glue seam. Use the 1" wooden dowel

as a form to wrap the shape over, during gluing. OR . . .

. . . the side seam can be aligned and glued,

then pressed flat.

If preferred, the wooden dowel can be replaced
with the three-part strut support.
Assemble the struts by sliding together one
single-slot strut up from the bottom of the two-slot strut.

Then slide the the final strut down from the top.

Spread the struts evenly, then insert into the end

of the post tube, and slide into place until it is

centered inside, with ends even with tube ends.

23. When using the 1" dowel, insert the dowel

into the tube, and slide . . .

. . . until end is even with opposite end,

when the end tabs are bent back.

Mark the opposite end of tube (with end tabs bent
away), then remove dowel and cut on line.
Re-insert dowel into tube.

24. Bend end tabs inward, hex cap down into place,

adjust and glue in place.

Repeat for second end.

25. Apply glue into the top end hexagon anchor,

then insert top post end in, square up and apply

pressure to secure in perpendicular position.

26. Repeat for the bottom hex anchor.

27. Prepare to to assemble the pumpkin with wedges

by applying adhesive to the bottom solid panel . . .

. . . and to underside of top tab.

Then position bottom end on inward surface of

bottom hex anchor, end wall flush with post wall,

and top tab overlapping top hex anchor, adjust

to be centered, then hold in place and apply pressure

until secure.

Here is the assembly to this point.

28. Repeat the process to attach each wedge
onto the post and anchors, until the final wedge
in positioned and attached.
NOTE it may require using a tool inserted between
the wedges to apply pressure that finger tips
will not be able to reach.

29. Prepare the stem shape by bending back on

all wall perforation lines and tabs, except

the bottom end tabs should bend outward.

30. Form the stem into a tube to overlap the straight

edge of first segment over the opposite tab to

perforation line to join seam.

NOTE this may be most easily accomplished

by inserting a 3/4" dowel as a press-around form.

31. Continue in same manner to complete each of the four

segment seams.

This is how the stem unit looks as completed tube.

32. Beginning at bottom end, bend wedge tabs inward
slightly, apply adhesive to them, then bend the upper
segment slightly to enclose them. Insert finger into
tube to apply pressure to join tabs to segment;
hold until secure.
33. Repeat for each of the next two seams to form
the stem into its hooked shape.