Needles 'n' Knowledge: Eyelet Rosette Lace Frame Series

Choose from among these four shape eyelet lace frames.

Each is assembled by joining segments with tiny tabs

then folding on perforation lines to create box pleating.

Each includes layered offset shapes plus

an optional base shape that extends

slightly beyond lace edges.

Use to decorate banners, pennants, cards

or as an ornament. Some sized to work well with

the “Pennants Kit L O V E Dbl Point” design.

Sizes: oval approx. 6.375” wide x 6.875 long”

square approx. 4.75” x 4.75”

rectangle approx. 4.75” wide x 5.75”
round approx. 5.44” x 5.44” .

Square frame description: see Step 12.
Round frame description: see Step 19.
Oval frame description: see Step 31.

RECTANGLE FRAME
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A side eyelet lace strips (long; cut 2)
B top and bottom eyelet lace strips (cut 2)
C base rectangle D offset rectangle
E scallop rectangle top layer
F optional base rectangle

2. Prepare the side strips by bending on the perforation
lines using the illustration below as a guide.
NOTE that the "Mountain Folds" are on each side of
the FRONT segments, and "Valley Folds" are
on each side of the BACK segments.

a) bend the the end tab forward (valley fold)

b) bend back on the perforations on each side of the "main"

eyelet arch identified as 'Front' in illustration

(mountain folds), first left side shown, then . . .

. . . right side.

c) bend forward on the next perforations on each side
of the "secondary" eyelet arch identified in
the illustration as "Back" (valley folds), first left, then . . .

. . . right to form . . .

. . . the recessed box pleat. . .

. . . as can be seen completed here.

d) Continue following that pattern to complete

the remaining perforation folds across the entire strip.

Here (below) is the side strip with ends folded behind.

3. Complete the second side strip in identical manner.

4. Complete the top & bottom strips in similar fashion,

except that the ends WILL NOT include the "under"

sections nor the end tabs, but have the "fold under" segments

and the "back" segments.

5. Prepare to join the side strips (shown right) with

the top strip by aligning the ends. Then tuck the end tab

behind the plain angled edge, adjust to align ends,

then join corner miter seam.

Refold at the perforations to check that the inward

edges line up as they should.

6. Continue to align and join the remaining three
corner seams, with side segments and top segments
alternating to form rectangle layout.

7. Add a dab of glue to the "behind" narrow segments
at the bottom inward edge, keeping glue within
the .25" margin that will tuck behind rectangle panel,
doing this for corners as well as . . .

. . . for the straight repeats across sides, top & bottom.

This is what the completed frame should look like.

NOTE that the dimensional nature of this "paper" lace

may require that it be slightly pressed with fingers

to encourage it to lay completely flat.

Consider pressing under a heavy flat weight such

as a large book, as the glue completes drying.

8. On the backside of the lace, lift the edges of

each the "back" pleats and add a dab of glue, then

replace and add pressure to glue these pleats in place.

9. Assemble the front panel unit by centering

and attaching the scallop (or straight edge) front panel

on top of the intermediate offset rectangle, then . . .

. . . center and attach to the base rectangle.
10. Position the rectangle unit over the frame opening . . .

. . . using the miter "reveal" areas to align

each corner at the invisible miter lines

(or just below the circle punches), with edges

overlapping lace frame approx. .25",

and glue in place.

The rectangle lace frame is now ready to position

and attach as a component for a project such as

card front, pennant banner, scrapbook layout, etc.

However, if desired, it can likewise be attached

to the optional larger base panel.

11. Apply adhesive along the lace on the backside

near the lower edge, then . . .

. . . position, centered, on the base panel and glue in place.

Here is the completed rectangle eyelet panel.

The FINAL step is to lift each of the "front" segments

slightly to give the lace a less flattened appearance

(see Step 30 of the Circle Frame instructions).

SQUARE FRAME
12. Identify and cut the shapes:
A top and bottom frame strips (2)
B side frame strips (2)
C base square panel D offset square panel
E scalloped square top layer panel
F optional offset base panel

13. Refer to Step 2 to review the diagram regarding

the "mountain" vs "valley" folds on perforations,

then bend and crease the first end of a side strip

forward - which is the end tab.

14. Continue to fold the side strip following the side strip

for the Rectangular lace frame (except square is shorter).

Here, below, is the completed side strip for square frame.
Complete the second side strip folding.
15. Complete the folding of the two top, bottom strips
in similar manner, except these do NOT include
the end tabs, but instead have the "fold under" segments
and the "back" segments on each end.

16. Prepare to join the side strips (shown left) with

the top strip by aligning the ends. Then tuck the end tab

behind the plain angled edge, adjust to align ends,

then join corner miter seam.

Here is the completed miter corner seam joined.

17. Position and attach the center panel assembly,
each centered on the next.

18. Refer to Steps 8-11 for additional lace preparation

and to position and attach square panel over

frame opening . . .

. . . and to position and attach the square frame

to its optional base square, if desired.

Here is the completed square lace frame.

CIRCLE FRAME

19. Identify and cut the shapes:

A quarter-arc lace "strip" (4)

B-D center round panel shapes

E optional offset base

20. Refer to Step 2 to review the rectangle diagram regarding

the "mountain" vs "valley" folds on perforations,

then bend and crease the first end of a arc strip

backward - which is the end tab.

21. Continue to fold on the perforations, following the diagram

for "mountain" folds on each side of the "front" segments,

for "valley" folds on each side of the "back" segments.

Here is the completed circle arc.

22. Add a dab of glue to the "behind" narrow segments
at the bottom inward edge, keeping glue within
the .2" margin that will tuck behind circles center
panel, EXCEPT. . .

. . . leave the right end "back" panel flat
and NOT glued into folded position.

23. Complete ALL four strips in identical manner.
24. Position two arcs end to end as shown,
align the end tab (right) and tuck it under the plain
edge (left) adjust for top and bottom alignment,
then glue seam.

25. Re-fold in the regular manner at the seam
as for the other pleats in the arc sections, and glue.

26. Repeat the aligning and joining for the remaining

three seams to complete the circle.

Refer to Step 8 to complete the gluing of the backside

of the pleats all around.

NOTE that the dimensional nature of this "paper" lace

may require that it be slightly pressed with fingers

to encourage it to lay completely flat.

Consider pressing under a heavy flat weight such

as a large book, as the glue completes drying.

27. Assemble the center circle panel layers
by centering each onto the next layer, and glue together.

28. Position the circles panel over the lace frame
opening, center and adjust so that equal widths of
lace remain exposed all around, then glue in place.
NOTE: if using the scallop top layer circle as shown,
it may be helpful to identify the top/bottom center scallops
and the side center scallops and align/center those
with corresponding top, bottom or center "front"
lace repeats during the alignment process as reference.

29. Position and attach to the optional base circle

if desired.

30. To assist the lace circle to have a more realistic

and dimensional quality, use fingertip to gently lift

the "front" repeat pleats slightly, all around.

Here is the completed round lace frame.

OVAL LACE FRAME
31. Identify the shapes:
A upper right arc B upper left arc
C lower right arc D lower left arc
(please note that these are NOT interchangeable)
E-G oval center panel shapes
H optional base oval panel

32. Review Steps 20-22 of the Circle Frame design,

then, NOTING that ends of all arc strips for Oval

may have the end tab or the plain end which will be

either extended under the adjacent end, OR

over the adjacent end tab, fold the pleat sequence

on all four unique arcs.

33. Begin with the A-upper right arc to fold on

perforations following the diagram in Step 2.

This image demonstrates the A-upper right arc

has the end tab on the upper center edge.

34. Join each arc in sequence by overlapping
the plain edge over adjacent end tab as for circle frame,
and joining seam. Begin with upper right strip (shown right)
being joined to upper left strip, here. Then . . .