Santa 3D Ball Ornament

(NOTE this cut file requires 12x12 cutting capacity

for largest shapes.)

Decorative ornament to hang from tree branch, chandelier,

 holiday swag or on a display hook stand on shelf or table. 

Jolly old Elf is fashioned as an eight-faceted sphere, 

fit together at the middle, with show-thru eye “dots”, 

add-on beard and mustache which fit around 3/8” stem diameter 

painted wooden mushroom plug nose 

(a substitute circle nose can replace the wood plug.) 

Traditional cone hat has brim “fur” strip with added tassel ball 

attached at top. (Add fur or batting to outer surface 

of brim for realism.) 

A reinforced hexagon tube adds structure and strength 

in tandem with interior dome octagon disc. 

Add hanger loop by passing cord or twine on long doll needle – 

attached to a multi-layer “stop” bottom button – 

through dome centers and out through top of hat cone 

and tassel ball. Completed ornament measures 

approx. 6.25” (not including top tassel) x 3.875” diameter.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A sphere upper shape with nose and eye cutouts*

B sphere lower shape with nose cutout

C sphere collar reinforcement

E interior support post tube   F post strut supports

G hanger loop "stop" button (4 to stack and glue for thickness)

H beard   I mustache   J eye liner (show-thru) shape

K hat cone    L hat rim "fur" strip

Also shown: nose painted mushroom button, hat tassel ball

*NOTE that the cut file contains alternative upper wedge sections

which allow front three wedges to represent face color,

and back/side 5 wedges to represent hair color.

2. Prepare the face area of upper sphere if desired by

inking or rouging cheek areas as shown.

3. Bend the sphere shapes by bending back on ALL

perforations for sections, side tabs or wedge tabs.

Take particular care at the pointed end of each wedge

segment to "pinch" the fold all the way to the tip.

Also take care at the wedge side tabs to pinch

the perforation all the way to the tip.

4. Join the first seam by overlapping the straight lowest

unconnected edge over the adjacent side tab to perf line,

and glue this segment of seam.

Continue up the seam to overlap straight edge to

perf line and glue, then . . .

. . . align and glue the final top segment of the first seam.

5. Repeat step 4 for each of the remaining side seams,

except . . . 

. . . for each of completing the final seams, align

and join the three edges of the end seam first.

. . . then complete the second-to-final seam and . . .

. . . the final four-segment seam at practically

the same time. NOTE that it may be easiest to join

the top pointed segment first, then work downward . . . 

. . . to the bottom, rim edge.

6. Complete the bottom sphere in the same manner.

7. Position the eye "liner" contrast shape behind

the eye cutout circles at the front of the upper dome.

Take care that the nose insertion hole is not covered.

7. Prepare the sphere reinforcement collar by bending

the edge tabs downward. Also, insert a tool through

the hexagon opening at the center to allow the post

to insert through collar.

8. Prepare the post tube shape by bending back on

all the long perforation lines, as well as end tabs

and hex "covers".

9. Form the post shape into a tube to bring the straight

long edge to overlap the edge flange, to perforation line

and glue in place.

NOTE that the post can be flattened to allow fingertips

to press along the flange seam.

10. Bend the tabs in at first end, then bend the hexagon

end "cover" into position to close the end, while

adjusting the shape of post into its regular hexagon

configuration.

11. Prepare the "strut" interior supports by interlocking

the slot ends, then . . .

. . . "open" into it's 'X' shape.

12. Insert the strut support unit into the open end of

the post tube, with the "legs" of the 'X' positioned at

two adjacent wall segment angles 

(with one skipped between), as shown. Then . . . 

. . . push the strut assembly into tube completely . . .

. . . so that the end tabs can be bent down into

perpendicular position, and end "cover" hex glued

on top to close the post tube.

13. Insert one post end into the center hex opening

and push approx. halfway through.

14. Next, position the collar/post assembly at the upper

dome opening, with nose cutout tab aligned with

the front of dome (and nose circle cutout) . . .

. . . and ease the collar into the opening so that

the tab bends align at . . . 

. . . the first perforation line. Glue in place.

15. Place the two spheres together, with front "faces"

together, then ease the bottom sphere into the top sphere.

The two sphere halves should be pushes together so that

the upper "face" bottom edge will align at first perf ilne.

Before pushing fully into position, apply glue next to

perf line, then push into final position.

If the spheres lose shape, or additional pressure needs

to be applied from inside, consider inserting a rod-like

tool such as this thin dowel through nose hole and

push where needed.

16. Add back curl to the beard from center outward

on both halves. Then . . .

. . . do the same thing to the mustache shape.

17. Apply glue to the front of sphere (upper) on each

side of the nose circle opening, then . . . 

. . . center beard with nose opening cut edges aligned,

and glue in place to front sphere facet only.

18. Repeat to glue the front portion of mustache

to beard.

19. Bend the side tip edges of beard back slightly,

then position tip at top of next-to-face facet back

perforation line as shown, with beard tip swung

upward so that tip is at or near top of facet, as shown,

and glue in place. Repeat for the opposite side.

20. Add "spiral" back curl to the cone shape,

which means run press the card stock shape

between rod tool and thumb in usual manner,

except pivot the tool from narrow end of cone shape

so that more distance is traveled along the wider

curved edge - more shaping along bottom edge

than is added near top.

DO NOT bend at the side perforation line - 

this is a GUIDELINE for gluing the seam,

not a bend.

Also, "pinch" at each of the short dash lines along

wider edge, so that the cone will correspond more

closely with the octagonal edges of the sphere.

21. Form the shape into a cone to overlap straight side

edge along the perforation guide line, and

glue the seam.

NOTE that it may be helpful to insert a press-against

tool inside and behind the seam (either from the top

opening or inside the cone as desired) in order to

get the seam secured.

22. Prepare the brim "fur" strip by bending back on

all perforations for segments, top flanges and bottom

tabs as shown.

23. Glue each of the top edge flanges back into

position behind the strip. Allow to dry thoroughly.

24. Form the band into a ring to overlap and join

the side seam.

25. Slide the fur ring over the top of the cone and

slide down into position . . . 

. . . at the bottom edge of the cone.

Bend the tabs to the inside of the cone, apply

adhesive to the underside of each tab, then bend

in and attach to the backside of the cone.

26. Prepare the "stop" button by layering and attaching

each of the button cut shapes into a stack, taking care

that thread holes and outer edges align as

precisely as possible. Press flat and allow to dry.

27. Prepare to finish the Santa sphere by cutting

a 30-36" length of soft twine (sample uses no. 5 perle cotton)

or gold ornament string,

and threading ends through the button holes, then

sliding the button to the center to line up ends as shown.

28. Thread the twine ends through the large eye of

a 5-6" long doll needle.

NEEDLE THREADING TIP:

A. Cut a 6-7" length of heavy thread such as

button hole twist. 

B. Fold in half to form a loop.

C. Thread the loop through the doll needle

to create a "needle threader" loop.

D. Insert twine ends through loop approx. 1/2"-1".

E. Gently but firmly pull the thread loop back through

the needle eye which will also pull the twine through.

29. Insert the doll needle through the bottom gap

where wedges points may not fully come together.

Direct the needle up through the center of the post

inside the sphere (near center of interlocked strut

supports), and out through the top wedges gap.

NOTE this is a bit tricky and may require some fishing

about and patient time.

30. Insert the needle through the cone hat from

bottom up and out the top as shown.

31. Finally, pierce the needle through the center

of the pompom ball and draw needle and twine

through completely. (The following images show

the remaining manipulations of hanging twine with

needle removed; however, there remains one final step 

(no. 36) where needle can help "bury" the thread ends,

so leave it on if possible, or re-thread later.)

32. Slide the hat and pompom down so that hat

sits onto head properly with cone seam toward back, 

and pompom is snug against cone open top.

 Release tension . . . 

. . . just enough to allow quick-grab glue to be applied

along/under hat brim edge without showing . . . 

. . . then press the hat into position and hold firmly

until securely in place.

NOTE that the brim rim should be approx.

a scant 1/8" above the second octagon wedge bend.

33. Move the pompom slightly out of the way to

apply glue to cone top rim, then reposition

and hold in place until secured.

34. Apply glue neatly to the stem sides of painted

mushroom nose button, then position and insert

stem end into cut out hole, and secure in place.

35. Cut/tear a strip of "faux fur" slightly wider than

card stock fur strip face, with slightly long length

for overlap, then center top-to-bottom and 

position in place (with seam position at back),

and glue in place.

If necessary, tuck any excess width at top down to wrap

behind the fur strip upper rim and glue on place.

36. As desired, either create a hanging loop with

excess twine at top above pompom. Or

use twine to attach a decorative hanging hook

as with the sample project. Once twine is

tied to hook, re-insert needle point back down

and through pompom and draw twine fully through.

Clip off excess twine - thus, "burying the ends".

Here is the completed ornament showing

hook attached at top.