Maple Leaf Cross Stitched Tag

 

Medium-size tag with layers that create 

a hole-punched panel, framed by tag front 

with faux-stitched layered overlay and plain back tag. 

Doubled-stitching panel is cross stitched with 4-ply floss 

to create the diagonally-placed leaf. 

Tie ribbon through two holes at tag top. 

Special on its own, completed tag can also be mounted 

on the front of a stock A6 card. 

Cross-stitch design is included in the cut file to print 

and refer to as stitching proceeds. 

Tag measures approx. 3.25” wide x 4.5” tall.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify the cut the shapes:

A tag front stitching panel 

 B second reinforcing stitching panel

(Not shown: front tag frame panel)

C tag faux stitches overlay front panel

D contrast panel for faux stitches panel

E tag back panel (hides stitching)

2. Assemble supplies and equipment needed, including 

floss and tapestry needles (no. 24 recommended).

The sample tag was stitched with #4130 Chilean Sunset

Color Variations variegated floss by DMC.

3. Prepare the overlay faux stitches panel by

layering the front panel over the contrast panel

and gluing in place. Press under a heavy flat

weight until dry.

4. Prepare the front and reinforcement hole-punched

stitching panels by ensuring that all the "crumbs"

are pushed through and removed. One recommended

way is to create a "tool" from a standard paper clip

by bending the outer "arm" straight. Use the end of

the "arm" to push through each hole where 

a crumb remains.

4. Layer the tag front and reinforcement layers and

attach together, then . . .

. . . use the paper clip tool to push through corner

holes of both layers to ensure that all the holes

are as precisely aligned as possible.

Press the tag assembly under a flat heavy weight

such as this thick book volume, possibly with 

something heavy placed on top as well. Leave weights

in place for several hours or overnight until

thoroughly dried to minimize or eliminate warping or curl.

5. Prepare to stitch cross stiches by cutting a 36-40 inch

length of 6-ply floss. Separate two of the plies,

place the two plies side by side and . . .

. . . line up the ends. Holding the ends together,

smooth together to create a loop at the half-way point.

Thread the loop (or the four ends if preferred) through

the needle eye. Pull the loop through so that it is . . .

. . . the long end.

6. Study this diagram to understand how to form

cross stitches for uniform appearance and tension.

NOTE that the RIGHT SLANT stitches are generally

placed across the row first, followed by the LEFT SLANT

stitches placed coming back across the row.

7. Determine where on the chart is the best place

to begin. Since it is often easiest for stitching progression

to work upward from row to row, it is recommended

to begin at the bottom row at the farthest left stitch.

Each square on the pattern represents 4 holes that

would be needed to create both the right and left slants.

It may be helpful when counting where to begin to think

about the spaces between four holes as the STITCH.

NOTE that each stitch will SHARE holes with the side-by-side

stitches - this is why counting the spaces may be wise.

Count 5 sets of four holes across the bottom of

tag panel, then count 3 sets of four holes up.

The stitching will begin at this set of four holes,

with the first stitch a right slant stitch, from

UPPER LEFT hole.

In this closeup of the previous photo image, see that

the counting of stitch sets can also be stated as:

count 5 holes along the bottom row,

then count 4 holes up - THIS IS WHERE TO INSERT NEEDLE.

8. Pull the floss through UNTIL about 3-4 inches

of the loop end remains, then insert the needle

diagonally to complete the first right slant stitch . . .

. . . and on the backside of work, insert the needle

through the loop and . . .

. . . pull the loop tight to remove all slack.

This is the "tying on" process.

9. Continue to refer to the chart to see that there are

four consecutive stitches - continue to create 

the right slant stitches for that group.

Continue by skipping one stitch (space) to complete

the two next stitches.

10. Now return along the same row to add

the left slant stitches to complete the 'X' stitches.

11. Move up to the second row and add the right slant

stitches across in the group of 8, then return to

complete the left slant stitches.

12. As stitching proceeds, thread length will eventually

be used up. Before length is unmanageable,

pause when the needle is on the backside of 

as a stitch is completed. Slip the needle under

3-4 stitches on the backside, then . . .

. . . slide the needle off, and trim the tails close

to the surface of the work.

This is the "tying off" procedure.

12. Continue to Row 3 to work across toward right,

skipping spaces as charted, then continue to complete

the "stem" stitches at the end of this row and

also the two "single" stitches at the ends of

previous rows. (This helps minimize length of

the "floating" floss on the backside of work.)

13. Complete the stitches shown on chart.

14. Position and attach the frame tag front layer,

taking care to line up all outer cut edges

and ribbon punch holes. 

15. Position and attach the faux stitching overlay

assembly, lining up the bottom and side edges.

16. Position and attach the back plain (cover) layer

to cover stitching work. Immediately press the assembly

under a flat heavy weight until thoroughly dried.

17. Thread a length of appropriately-sized ribbon

through the holes to tie a knot and bow on front.

Trim ends as desired to complete tag.