Owl 3D Sugar Bowl

 

White owl figure takes the form of a large two-handled 
vessel with dimensional beak, thickened eyes 

(add dot of white acrylic paint as highlight) and brows, 

four-part wings overlaid onto handles. 

(NOTE layered features must bend to follow hull shape; 

under layers are split shapes.) 

Maple leaf accents add a splash of autumn color. 

Subtle “feather” details are cut into hull sections 

with “double cuts”. 

Fill the mug with loose candy as a gift container, 

with pot pourri as a seasonal decoration, etc. 

Bowl vessel measures approx. 4.375” wide x 

4.375” x 3” tall” with handles span 6.625” 

when fully assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

bowl hull shapes: A-G (numerals 1-8 cut in tabs)

I bottom octagon ring

J handle slot and strip layers testing shapes*

K & L left and right handle sets, including

front & back tabbed shapes, with 8-9* interior

shapes as prescribed by slot & strip test

M bowl rim reinforcement ring

Eye & Eyebrow arrays (cut left & right sets):

N eye base solid circle with diag. perf line

O outer rings    P outer half rings 2 sets for build up

Q eye pupil solid with 2 sets halves for build up

 R solid eyebrows with 2 sets halves for build up

S bottom octagon solid (cut 4 for build up)

T left & right wing base with overlays

U left and right maple leaf accents

V dimensional beak with overlay

W left & right feet

PREPARATION

2. To determine how many handle layers to cut

to properly fit into the bowl hull slots, prepare this

test: layer 8 or more cut strips, stack then . . .

. . . hold together and fit into the cut slot. The stack

should fit snugly. Typical textured card stock used in

projects like this one will require 8 layers; add or

subtract as your stock selection dictates.

Calculate the shapes your project will need by

designating from the determined quantity (1) layer

for the handle front, (1) layer for the handle front,

and the remainder for the interior layers (these DO NOT

include the end tabs that will fit through hull slots.

3. Layer the interior handle shapes into a stack

and glue together, taking care to align all cut edges

as precisely as possible. Use the punch hole as

an alignment guide, inserting a stylus or awl point

through hole to assist.

4. Bend the tabs on front and back shapes forward.

Layer and glue to the appropriate face of glued stack . . . 

. . . taking care to align cut edges as before,

with the tab perf bends aligned at interior cut end

edges precisely as well. Then immediately . . .

. . . press under a heavy flat object such as a thick book,

possibly with something else heavy placed on top.

Allow the glued up shape to dry completely, leaving

the unit under the press for several hours or over night.

Pressing like this helps minimize warping and curling of

built up stacks assembled with liquid adhesive.

Repeat for the second handle unit.

5. Prepare the base build up stack in a similar

manner, aligning and gluing the 4 octagon solids

together with precision, then pressing under heavy

flat weight until thoroughly dried.

6. Prepare the solid eye base and ring by bending

back on the perforation lines near angled centerlines.

7. Stack and glue the half ring shapes as with other

layered for thickness units. Then . . .

Position the half ring shapes behind the full ring shape

on the corresponding half, with the slightly wider

half ring, then . . .

. . . the narrower half ring, with curved edges aligned

as precisely as possible, so that . . .

. . . a slight gap is maintained along the perforation

line of the full ring. This will allow the eye to conform

to the bowl bends. Repeat for second eye ring.

Press and allow to dry.

8. Position the ring over the whole eye base, with

perforation lines precisely aligned so that the unit

will bend together as needed, then glue in place;

press under weight. Repeat for second eye.

9. Repeat the build up process for the left and right

eye brows, stacking and gluing halves, then attaching

to backside of whole eyebrow, maintaining 

the narrow bend gap. Complete 2; press and dry.

10. Repeat the process for the pupils with half eye

circle stacks positioned and attached behind eye whole

with gap maintained along whole's perf line.

11. Complete eye unit assembly by positioning

corresponding pupil stack within eye ring, taking care

that perforation lines are matched up. Press to dry.

13. Add eye highlight dot if desired by using a stylus

or equivalent tool and white/cream acrylic paint

to place neat paint dot within the highlight circle

cut into the whole pupil shapes. Allow to dry.

DIMENSIONAL BEAK

14. Prepare the 3D beak by bending back on all

perforation lines for front panel and side walls,

and narrow tabs at wall ends. Bend edge tabs back

now or wait til these are inserted into hull slots.

15. (Apologies that the black color of the beak for

this project will make it difficult to properly view

the positioning of the straight edges and perf marks

for the corners assembly.)

Beginning at top, bend the narrow tabs back at end

of angled side wall, then bend top and side walls back

to overlap edge across tab to perf line and join seam.

Repeat for the opposite side corner seam.

16. Repeat seam arrangement for the mid-side

corner, tab bend under straight edge which overlaps

to perf marks, then glued. Repeat for opposite side seam.

NOTE that the small scale of this assembly may make

it helpful to use a blade tool such as this spatula to

place behind the seam being joined to provide

a "press-against" surface, held until seam grabs.

17. Position and join the final seam at 

center bottom . . .

. . . using blade tool to assist with the joining.

BOWL HULL ASSEMBLY

18. Locate and identify the order numbers which are

cut into the upper side tab (or bottom tab for #8).

Prepare each segment by bending the top wall forward . . .

. . . and all other wall sections and tabs back.

NOTE that care is needed as the sections are bent

so that double-cut feather detailing is not damaged.

19. Begin with segment #1, to position bottom tab

on the underside of the octagon ring "side" edge

(select one edge as starting point; it becomes side),

adjust so that the perforation seam line is precisely

aligned with ring's cut edge, and glue in place.

20. Repeat the bottom tab joining for segment #2,

taking care that segment's straight left side edge

is overlapping the tab from #1.

Allow these seams to dry.

21. Apply glue to the first (and possibly second) of

the side tabs of #1, bending #2 forward to expose

tabs as necessary.

Then carefully bend the two segments back into place

to allow the straight edge of #2 to overlap bottom

tab of #1 to align with perforation line. 

Adjust to be as precisely aligned as possible, then

apply pressure until the seam is secure.

22. Repeat the edge alignment step for the next

edge and tab as the seam is slowly joined from

bottom toward top. Hold each seam segment

and apply pressure until secure before proceeding.

23. Continue the aligning and segment joining process

until the final seam at top is completed, which will

involve a slightly forward bend to align and join.

24. Repeat the hull seam process with #3, which

is the front panel, and then with #4.

25. At this stage, the beak can be placed by

inserting the tabs into the corresponding slots

cut into the hull. Push tabs fully in, then . . .

. . . bend tabs outward/back on the inside and glue

to inside of wall. Hold tabs until fully secured.

26. Position and attach the front beak overlay.

27. Continue positioning, attaching and joining the hull

wall segments 5 & 6 in order, then position and join

#7 to the first segment (#1) that was joining to

the bottom octagon. NOTE that #7 has side edge tabs

on both side edges.

28. Segment #8 attachment is slightly different,

although bottom tab joining to ring is similar.

Tabs from both adjacent segments should be positioned

behind #8 as it is joined in place.

29. In similar manner to previously-joined segments,

begin by joining bottom-most sections, likely

completing these most easily in sets on both sides

before moving upward. Reach fingers in through

ring opening to manipulate and adjust seams.

Allow to dry.

30. Insert the upper and lower pairs of tabs into

respective slots on the side of hull, then . . .

. . . bend tabs outward on the inside of the bowl

and glue firmly in position. Repeat for second handle.

31. Position the wing unit on the corresponding

handle so that the straight inward edge aligns

flush with the hull wall, and glue in place.

NOTE that since the wing does not completely cover

the handle face, it will be necessary to assess where

the glue needs to be to join wing in place but not

be added below wing bottom edge where it would

show, then add ONLY above that area.

32. The sample owl bowl includes decorative studs

on wings over the spot where alignment punch holes

exist in the other areas of wing and handle. If you

wish to add a brad instead, or want a guide mark,

push a sharp point through the front wing overlay

prior to attaching.

33. Apply glue to backside (omit at very bottom where

the eye unit does not attach) then position over

the crest of the front segment so that . . .

. . . the straight lower inside angle edge abuts next

to the 3D beak while ridge and bend remain aligned.

Attach in place. Repeat for opposite eye unit.

34. Apply glue to backside of eyebrow pair, then

position where the center front short edges abut

between eyes, and lower curved edges hug

eye units. NOTE that the bends of eyebrows

should align with hull corner angles and extend

only slightly up into the top section near rim edge.

35. Position and attach the base build up shape.

It is recommended to use quick-grab adhesive

such as Fabri-Tack or hot melt. It may also be

helpful if there is any warping in the base ring

that might prevent even, full attachment, that

an object such as a spray paint rattle can bottom

be placed down into the bowl to apply pressure

around the ring area. Balance something else heavy

on top such as a book to help press and attach.

36. Bend the edge flanges forward around

the reinforcement ring collar. Apply glue to

the underside of flanges, then . . .

. . . carefully fit into the bowl's upper opening at rim . . .

. . . and slide down fully into place so that flange

top edges are even with bowl upper edges.

Work around the edges to adjust and reposition

until the collar begins to set in place.

37. Bend the left and right foot shapes back slightly

on perforation line. Apply adhesive to the backside

of each where it will touch the hull, then position with

the perf bend aligned over the bend angle in the hull.

Repeat for the second foot.

38. Bend each leaf accent along horizontal perf lines,

then position and attach in each hull side section

with perforation lines aligning with hull bends.

Here is the completed Owl Sugar Bowl.

It easily holds a full package of Hershey's Nuggets.