Needles 'n' Knowledge: Witch's 3d Broomstick Assembly Guide

Great prop for the witch 3d figure design,

or to stand in the corner of a niche or shelf for Halloween.

Measures approx. 14" long x 2" wide.

Broomstick shaft is a hexagon tube sized to allow
a 7/16" diameter wooden dowel to be inserted for strength.

Wrap fringed "straw" sections at the connection

to cover the "shaper" bulb, and glue in place

(plus colored raffia like the photo model if you choose).

Add twine wrappings at the uncut margin of straw.

Embellish as you wish (shown with rusty bell).

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A stick upper shape

B stick lower shape

C connection collar

D bulb shapers (6)

E straw under fringe shapes

F straw over fringe shapes

NOTE: kraft wrapping-weight paper cut to 12x12 sheets was used for E. "Grasscloth" (a sheer, semi-transparent velum like paper) was used for F. A layer of colored raffia 'fringe' was also added as 'embellishment' to this sample project version.

2. Prepare the stick shape by folding back on all long perforation lines, folding top cap and tabs back.

3. Form the stick shape into a tube to bring the long straight edge to overlap the perforation line, and glue edge over tab.

NOTE that it will be easier to apply pressure and achieve a straight, accurate seam if the stick dowel is inserted into the tube at this point, as a press-against surface.

4. Prepare the stick lower shape in similar fashion, bending on perforation lines, forming a tube, gluing edge to tab, etc.

5. Prepare the connection collar in the same fashion as upper and lower stick tubes.

6. Apply glue to the collar at one end, then insert that end into the bottom end of the upper stick, adjust so that half of collar is inside, then hold in place until secure.

NOTE: it may be helpful to push the collar sides inward in hourglass formation prior to inserting, then using a rod tool to 'pop' sides back to hex shape to attach inside stick tube.

7. Apply glue to the exposed collar surfaces, then insert the stick bottom tube over collar and glue in place.

8. Cut the dowel to 13.5" finished length, and insert into the stick assembly, pushing it down approx. 5/8" from top. (This keeps it clear of the handle loop holes.)

9. Bend the top cap tabs inward, apply adhesive to tabs, then tuck into the tube and hold in place until secure.

NOTE, if the cap pushes too far in, use a rod tool like a crochet needle inserted into the side punch holes to push the cap outward and into position.

10. Thread a 7-8" length of selected cord through the punch holes, then bring ends together and tie into an overhand knot to form a handle loop.

Trim away excess cord leaving short tails.

11. To help the straw fringe section simulate a 'real' witch's broom shape, a bulb is prepared and attached to the broom shaft.

Prepare the six bulb sections by bending back on all perforation lines except bend end shaped tabs outward.

Line up center sections, overlap straight edge over the corresponding tab perforation line, and glue in place.

12. Bend the end sections to bring the straight edge to overlap adjacent tab perf line, and glue in place.

Repeat for the opposite end tab to complete the three-part seam.

13. Continue to join the bulb shapes to each other . . .

. . . until all six are connected.

14. Form the complete bulb tube to bring the straight edge to overlap the end tabs, and glue in place, straight edges to corresponding tab perforation lines.

15. Slide the bulb shape onto the stick end, and down into place, as explained in the next frame.

Determine the bulb position by laying a top fringe shape next to the stick assembly, bottom edges nearly even, with fringe 1/4" lower.

Bend long fringe strip back to view where the cut ends. Cut end should match the perforation line of the top bulb tab.

Glue bulb shaper top and bottom tabs to stick shaft.

16. Position the first straw under fringe shape so that the top of the fringe is at the bulb shaper tab perforation line. Glue the lead edge non-cut margin to the stick shaft. Next, apply adhesive to the margin backside, and wrap the fringe strip around the shaft as tightly as possible. Apply 'squeeze' pressure to attach the wrapped fringe margin in place completely and compress the layers as much as possible.

17. Attach the lead edge of the second straw under fringe shape in similar fashion, then apply glue and wrap in place.

If desired, prepare colored/contrast raffia 'fringe' layer and attach between the under-straw and over-straw layers.

To create the raffia fringe, a bunch of raffia strands were cut to length to match the over-fringe, then sewing machine-stitching was made across and back in the area corresponding to the un-cut margin of over fringe shape.

Raffia will be random-cut to size at top and bottom later.

18. Position the over fringe shape so that top of fringe cut lines up where the bulb shape begins underneath. Join and wrap one fringe shape, then the second for a full broom head.

NOTE: this image shows the assembly without the raffia fringe layer. The layer is included in the final project.

(Steps 19-21 show a lashing technique

to hide the wrapping tails.)

19. Prepare to attach the wrapping, by forming a loop near the tail end of 1.5 yards length of jute-like cord or twine.

Lay the loop across the wrapping area (uncut margin of the top fringe layer) and hold in place as wrapping is completed.
Loop extends above top of the completed wrapping rows, tail remain exposed below.

20. Wrap cord around shaft/fringe layers as tightly as possible (the reason a dowel is needed inside as reinforcement and strength), with rows neatly side by side.

21. When the final wrap is completed at top of uncut margin, cut a 4 inch tail.

Pass the tail end through the exposed loop and pull through.

Next, take each tail end in one hand . . .

. . . and pull the original end to ease the loop (and the captured opposite tail) back and under the wrapping rows. Pull until the 'intersection' of the tails is approx. halfway behind wrapping.