A
quartet of box lids fits into their bases to create
“plank” boxes with layered-for-thickness hat brims
“plank” boxes with layered-for-thickness hat brims
and accent panels, plus faces with dimensional
noses.
Finish each of the different
heights with
icy letters that spell S N O W.
Stand in a row as is shown, or
overlap and attach planks together
for
a standing display to celebrate winter. 
Box planks range from 8.5” to 6.5”
tall x
3” wide x 1.25” deep.
Overall ensemble measures approx. 11.75” wide.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
(shown below are shapes for 1 representative
plank - the 'S' box)
A box lid with nose attachment cut outs
B box base
C & D interior strut support strips upper & lower
E front panel F front hat crown panel with snowflake
G build up hat brim strips (6-7) H hat brim face strip
I eyes with contrast underlays (2 ea.)
K icicle upper & lower accents for 'S'
L 'S' letter cut out
2. Layer hat brim strips for thickness and attach together,
taking care to align all cut edges as precisely
as possible, then . . .
. . . position and attach the brim face strip on top
of stack, align precisely, and glue in place.
Immediately place the stack on a flat surface
and press with a heavy flat weight such as
this muslin-covered re-purposed free weight bar
and leave in place for several hours or over night.
Pressing helps liquid-glued up stacks to stay
flat, minimizing warping and curling.
3. Stack eyes and contrast base circles and glue together.
LID & BASE ASSEMBLY
4. Identify the 'S' LID shape by locating the 'S' cut
in the bottom wall panel. (Each of the plank boxes
include their respective letters cut into bottom wall
panels, for 'N', 'O' and 'W' for identification.)
The BASE panel also includes the 'S' letter
and the double "bite" notches on bottom of panel.
Prepare the BASE panel by folding back on all
perforation lines for walls and tabs.
5. Bend adjacent bottom and side walls into position
with tab tucked inside, align straight edge to tab perf line
and join seam. Repeat for other three corner seams.
6. Identify the strut strips and add-on strip ends
by locating the single punch circle symbols in
the end tab or bottom tab for upper strip and
double circle symbols for lower strip.
Bend the end tab back, then overlap the plain end
of the corresponding add-on strip across the opposite
tab, adjust for alignment then glue seam.
Repeat for the second strut strip.
7. Bend bottom tabs outward for both strips.
Bend each strip at the segment perf lines:
bend upper strip into 'W' form, shown as top strip
in this image; and bend lower strip into 'M' form.
(NOTE that this may involve re-bending at seam.)
the strips at the corresponding strips as shown here,
with corner bends between slots . . .
. . . so that the assembly has "honeycomb" sort of
compartments. Push the two strips fully together -
downward - so that it is a height matching the BASE.
9. Apply adhesive to the underside of all tabs,
then adjust length so that the assembly fits fully
within the BASE from end to end, then press down
to attach tabs to backside of main BASE wall.
(NOTE that the strut assembly will be very condensed
to fit into the 'N' BASE and most elongated for 'W'.)
10. Prepare the LID main shape as described in
the middle of Step 4 above.
11. Orient the face overlay panel for 'S' so that
the nose attachment cut outs point in the same
direction, then . . .
. . . position on the lower portion of LID panel with
panel side and bottom edges aligned with
perforation lines, and cut outs aligned precisely.
Glue in place.
12. Position the hat crown panel similarly with lower
edge abutted snugly to top edge of face panel,
and attach in place. If possible when using liquid
adhesive, press under a flat heavy weight until dry.
13. Position and attach the icicle accent shapes
at top center of 'S' shape, and at upper edge of
bottom curve as shown. For other letters, refer
to the thumbnail images at the beginning of
this post.
14. Locate the alignment guide cuts at bottom of
the face panel, then position . . .
. . . the letter assembly at guide marks and centered
side to side and attach in place.
Press the LID assembly under a heavy flat object
(a thick book works well as shown here) until dry.
15. Prepare the 3D nose shape by bending back on
angled perforation lines - leave end tabs unbent for now.
16. Form the shape into a cone to overlap straight
end edge over opposite tab shape to perf line
and glue seam.
NOTE that it may be helpful to complete the seam
by inserting a rod-like tool such as the handle tip
of this spatula into the form and behind the seam
to provide a press-against surface.
17. To attach the nose in place, insert the bottom tab
into the slot opening of LID/face panel, then . . .
. . . tip the upper tabs back and insert into the angled
opening until panel edges are aligned with nose
tab perforations.
On backside, apply glue to underside of tabs and
bend back as shown to attach to backside of wall.
It may be helpful to place the LID assembly face up
on work surface and apply fingertip pressure through
all layers where the tabs are located - ensure that
the tabs remain in bent-back configuration.
18. Position and attach the eyes above the nose.
19. Complete the LID assembly by bending side walls
back into position to complete seams as described
for BASE in Step 5 above.
20. To complete the plank, fit the BASE into the LID
backside - NOTE that this is a snug fit - and push
fully together.
Add glue between the side walls near LID rim edge
all around, then press sides inward to attach
all in place.
21. Position and attach the hat rim strip stack
centered side to side and with lower edge
aligned with crown panel lower edge.
Position and attach the snowflake accent
to crown (for 'S' and 'O').
22. When all four plank boxes are completed,
determine how you want to display them.
They can remain separate for more compact
storage between snowy seasons, overlapped
in a staggered configuration and glued, or placed
side by side with hat brim strips sort of
interlocked, then held in place with sticky dots.
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