Needles 'n' Knowledge: Bee 3D Form Spiral Base

Dimensional display for bee lovers features

a two-part fit-together egg form with contrast “yellow”

double-section overlays to form 3 stripes.

Hexagon post with cut-to-size 1/4" wooden dowel insert

allows the bee form to hover above the scalloped base layers,

anchored in a small box with built-up anchor stack concealed inside.

Spiral "spring" shape gives illusion that bee is flying.

Pair of heart wings attached with brad accent,

and curly antennae add final details.

Measures approx. 4.75” tall

(also includes a longer post for a 6.25” tall version)

with 4.5” diameter base.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A front body dome (lower)
B front body dome (upper) with attached decagon "lid"
C back body dome (lower)
D back body dome (upper) with attached decagon "lid"
E, F & G front, middle & back stripe overlays (5 each)
H antennae pair fronts and backs
I & J upper and lower wings
K & K post anchor stacks (6-7 for each of 2)
L post support "box" M post wrap
N base scallop accent (contrast top layer)
O base scallop top layer
P base scallop build up layers (6)
Q spiral

2. Prepare the post anchor build up stacks by

layering the cut shapes and attaching together,

taking care to align all cut edges as precisely

as possible. Create two stacks of 6-7 shapes each.

NOTE: it will be helpful to press each stack assembly
under a heavy flat object such as this fabric-covered
re-purposed free weight, or something similar,
until liquid glue is completely dry, to reduce or
eliminate warping or curling of the stack.

3. Layer the scallop circle base, with the smaller

top layer first attached (centered) on main base

scallop top layer, then position and attach remaining.

Use flat weight to press this assembly until it is fully dry.

NOTE: this may require several hours.

4. Prepare the half dome shapes by bending back

on all perforation lines, including . . .

. . . the tiny wedge tabs

between the sections . . .

. . . which may be best creased by bending

adjacent sections back out of the way, the

pinching along the perforation line to crease

all along, including down to the cross seam

that defines that segment edge at bottom.

(Precision creasing at this point is helpful.)

5. Join each of the seams by bending back
the lowest unattached segments of the seam
to overlap the straight edge (on right as shown here)
over tab (left) to perforation line, then glue in place.

Repeat for the next segment, and . . .

. . . and third segment and top segment.
Repeat the seaming process for each of the seams
between sections on all dome halves.

6. Align the front halves along the joining seam edges

and repeat the process for aligning straight edge

overlapping adjacent tab to perf line, and join,

including the inward segment (where this image

begins the process).

7. Repeat for the opposite side seam to complete

the dome assembly. Bend the front decagon "lid"

into position, (see step 9 for back dome as ref.)

adjust so that edges align at top tab

perforation lines, and join. It may be helpful

to apply pressure from inside.

8. Repeat the wedge section seaming process for

the back half dome sections . . .

. . . aligning and joining the half seams in

same manner to complete the back dome.

9. Bend back end decagon "lid" into position,

adjust and attach.

10. Use a rounded tool like this spatula handle end

to push the interior wedge tabs of the front half dome

at bottom inward.

11. Bend each stripe overlay back at center perforation line.
Get familiar with how stripe overlays will be
positioned, with front, middle and back stripes
positioned on their own "strata" of the domes.
Shown here, the mid bottom stripe with hex cutout
is positioned over matching strata of front dome with
the perforation aligning with seam, and attached in place.

12. Continue to complete the middle stripe by
positioning the other overlaps around the dome.
(Paper thickness may affect how the stripes fit;
scissor trim any excess at end edges.)
* * * * *
NOTE that the center TOP overlay
that will eventually be positioned, will be left off
until post is in place.

13. In similar manner, position and attach the front

stripe overlays all around, using the large slotted overlay

at the panel where antennae slots pair are located.

14. Repeat for the back stripe overlays,

positioned and attached on the back dome as shown.

15. Prepare the antennae pair by bending the end

tabs forward, then layer the reversed left and right pair . . .

. . . back to back and glue together, leaving
the end tabs free.

16. Straighten end tabs so they are flat again,

then insert through the body slot for the appropriate

antennae (they should curl outward when in

the correct position).

17. On the inside of the front dome, spread the end tabs
again and glue each in place to dome backside.

18. Repeat for the other antennae to insert,
and glue tabs in place.

19. Apply glue to the back dome inward segments

all around, then insert into the open end of

front dome, taking care that the top and bottom

panels are lined up appropriately, and carefully

work the two ends together until fully inserted,

and apply pressure to join all edges.

20. Prepare the post tube strip by bending back

along each of the long perforation lines.
NOTE: there is a shorter post (as shown in finished image)
and a taller post available: choose the one your prefer.

21. Form the post shape into a tube to overlap

the straight long side edge over the opposite flange
to perforation line and glue in place . . .

. . . working finger pressure up and down the edge

until all is secure.

NOTE: this will be easiest if the 1/4" wooden dowel
is used as a form, wrapping the strip around,
overlap edges and gluing as described.

22. Bend top end tabs outward, slide the tube to be even

at the end of dowel, then . . .

. . . mark the opposite edge of tube, then

remove the dowel and cut to size at mark.

Insert the dowel piece into tube . . .

. . . and apply glue to dowel, slide tube to be even at ends.

23. Position and attach the first support stack

on the front side of the accent scallop circle shape

that includes the slots.

"Audition" how the post will fit into the support collar

and base, if desired (but wait to attach til later).

24. Build the support "box" by bending back

on all perforation lines.

NOTE: it may be helpful to keep insertion tabs unbent

at perforations until inserted into base slots.

25. On backside of support box, position one post

stack so that the hexagon openings of each

line up as precisely as possible, and glue in place.

26. Form the support box shape by bending adjacent
sides back so that the tab is tucked in and
the straight edge of one side overlaps tab to perf line.
Glue this side seam, and remaining three.

27. Position the support box over the front of

the scallop circle base shape so that tabs will fit

into the slots.

Insert slots and then . . .

. . . turn to backside to bend tabs outward and
glue each in place.
28. Position the post/scallop circle accent assembly
onto the top of the base scallop assembly,
center and adjust as necessary, then glue together.