Stars Pail 3D Container

 Fun decoration for Independence Day 

(also summer, Christmas and more). 

Twelve sided dimensional pail has star insets near rim, 

with handle that can swing up or rest in down position. 

(Brackets can hold handle in desired position 

when glued to hull, as desired.) 

Overlapping rim edge segments, and base “plug” style

 insert at bottom provide sturdiness, 

so that bucket can display paper or dried flowers, 

light-weight wrapped treats such as rice puff balls, etc. 

Pail measures approx. 7” tall excluding handle 

x 6” diameter; 9.4375” tall with handle upright. 

(Requires 12x12 card stock and cutting capacity.)

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main hull shape with bend-over rim (2)

B star inset (10)

C handle end (inward) bracket (2)

D hull wall interior wall reinforcements (12)

E slot and tab test shapes

F handle shape, including divided sets (6-7*)

*determined by E test slot and tabs

NOTE: model project uses 3 whole shapes, 

2 pair long/short, 2 pair central to equal 7 layers

G hull floor interior (with 'I' cut identification)

H hull floor exterior

I bottom 'plug' insert upper shape

J bottom 'plug' insert lower shape (hollow)

K bottom 'plug' boxing strip (2)

Here is the 'G' hull floor interior shape with the 'I' cut.

2. To determine how many handle ends will properly

and snugly fit into the hull side handle openings

and brackets: A) stack the tabs on top of each other;

B) insert end into slot;

C) add or subtract tabs so that stack fits easily

but fully into slot. Remember that a slight increase

will happen with handle layers are glued together.

Use the final quantity of tabs as quantity

to cut and assemble.

3. Prepare the handle assembly (stack) first so that

it can be pressed and allowed to dry thoroughly.

Begin with a 'whole' handle shape as the center layer.

Position and attach divided or paired partial shapes

onto the whole shape, align cut edges as precisely

as possible. Make sure that 'seam'  position of partial shapes

is alternated and does not align through stack.

Here is the long/short divided option.

Here is the central divided option.

4. Press the complete handle assembly under

a heavy flat object such as a heavy book volume,

or planed wood plank such as the one shown here.

Add other weight objects on top if desired to ensure

that handle remains flattened until completely dry.

This may require several hours or overnight,

and will help minimize warping or curling.

5. Prepare the hull shapes by bending back on ALL

perforation lines for side walls, top rim pair,

bottom; and forward for the top-most perf line

as shown.

NOTE that the rim includes a wedge extension that

will slide under the adjacent angle edge when . . .

. . . hull is formed. It includes a short guide mark 

which may be mistaken as a perf cut - 

DO NOT bend.

6. Line up the two hull shapes so that plain left side

edge can overlap long side tab to perf line on

right side, adjust top and bottom for alignment,

then glue seam. Allow to dry thoroughly.

7. Beginning on the side tab end,

prepare the rim fold sequence by placing hull

face down on work surface. Bend the upper extension

back on rim pair perforations . . .

. . . then use a right angle object such as the wood

block shown that can be abutted to the rim portion

to ensure that rim is perpendicular to hull walls.

Hold angled portion of extension in place (making

sure it stays flat and a straight slope). Lift the bottom

portion slightly to apply adhesive around "tab shape" 

edges (avoid where star cut out opening will be)

 to join it to backside of hull wall - centering 

side edges evenly between hull wall perforations.

8. Position and attach a wall reinforcement strip

below the end of glued tab, abutted snugly at

end edge, and centered between wall segment

edge perforations.

9. On hull front, position a star inlay into the cutout

so that it seats fully to be flat with hull surface . . .

. . . then turn the hull over and apply

pressure behind where star was added.

10. Repeat steps 7-9 across the whole hull 

assembly, EXCEPT  leave the final top extension

flat and unattached until later in process. 

11. Bend the hull bottom tabs outward to allow

the hull to stand better on work surface, then . . .

. . . begin to form the hull into its ring shape.

At section ends, add a dab of glue on the wedge

tab, between cut end and guide cut mark. Then . . .

. . . tuck the wedge tab point under the adjacent

angle edge (use a spatula tool to help direct point)

and push in until over edge aligns at guide mark cut.

Hold in place as additional rim seams are completed,

as much as possible. 

(Further adjustment can be done later). 

12. Position hull final edges to join second side seam.

Once positioned, place the seam area face down

on flat work surface to apply fingertip pressure

inside hull along full seam length until secure.

13. At rim edge, add glue dab as done previously

for final wedge in sequence (as in step 11).

14. Above side seam, add glue to rim tab, then . . .

. . . wrap the extension to the inside of hull and

repeat the rim and block process for perpendicular

position, then attach the end segment in place

on hull wall inside surface.

Add the final interior wall reinforcement strip

following previous process.

15. Tip the hull to upright position, then use

the bottom exterior floor shape as GUIDE to

make final adjustment to rim edge, pushing or

squashing to align with floor shape as closely

as possible. To hold position until glued rim tabs

are dried and secure, place a moderately heavy

weight, such as a thick book, flat on top of hull

(with or without floor shape in place).

16. Prepare the bottom insert boxing strips by

bending back on all perforation lines for wall segments,

top, bottom and end tabs.

17. Join the strips into on length by overlapping

straight end edge over opposite tab, then . . .

. . . form the strip into a ring to join second seam.

18. Bend bottom tabs inward to form ledge, 

apply glue to each, then insert hollow bottom floor 

shape into ring, rotate until the straight edges align 

exactly with boxing segments tab perforations.

Apply fingertip pressure all around on each

segment until they are secure. 

19. Repeat step 18 to apply glue to top set of tabs,

then insert top shape into ring. Turn assembly over . . .

. . . then reach through hollow opening to apply

pressure along each segment until all are secure.

20. Invert hull, (and also at insert bottom edges - 

not shown here).

Place insert into hull bottom . . .

. . . place interior floor 'I' shape into hull so that

it will align and attach to bottom of insert.

apply glue to hull tabs. Bend tabs inward.

Invert hull to reach inside and push both insert and

interior floor shape slowly down into position to

seat and attach to bottom tabs.

NOTE that the tight fit of insert and floor shape

inside hull make it necessary to keep them

more or less horizontal as it moves downward.

On bottom, apply pressure as possible to join tabs

to interior floor shape.

21. Apply adhesive (quick-grab Fabri-Tack used

here) to bottom rim edge, then position and attach

bottom floor shape to cover tabs.

To help secure in place, invert hull and place

book on top of rim as previously done, until dry.

22. Prepare handle brackets by bending narrow

center tabs back into open position.

NOTE that this may be easier if using a blade tool

such as the spatula tip shown here.

23. Flex the handle assembly to insert first end

into side hole, then . . .

. . . second end into opposite hole. Push ends

inward to center the handle on hull.

24. Apply glue to backside of narrow tabs 

of bracket. Then . . . 

. . . slide bracket "slot" - backside toward hull wall -

over the handle end.

Slide bracket to be flat against wall.

Repeat for opposite handle end.

NOTE: if desirable to have handle secured in

particular position such as upright, the round

part of bracket can be glued to hull wall, once

desired position is fixed.

Here is the completed project: