Cardinal 3D Bird Figure

Inject a spot of color into seasonal decor by creating 

this stylized “red jay”, composed of body hull 

and interior box. 

Layered wings have “feather” tip shaping. 

Dark mask fits around dimensional two-piece beak, 

with layered contrast eyes. Display perched cardinal 

on hexagonal post that is included, or use alternative 

main body shape that contains a hang hole 

so bird can be suspended on string or twine. 

Measures approx. 7” long x 4” tall x 2.5” wide 

(at longest dimensions) when assembled; 

stand measures approx. 1.75” tall by 2.5” diam. base.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes for bird:
A main body with tail
B head front   C head crest
D mask  E upper and lower beak
F eye patches and eye circles
G body box
H tail shapes to layer
I left & right wing layers (3 each of 6 shapes for l & r)

2. If using the perch stand with your project,

identify and cut the shapes for the perch stand:

J stand hexagon cylinder   K side wall overlays (6)

L interior support struts (1 of each)

M base top layer (with hexagon opening)

N base build up layers (7-8)

3. Prepare the shapes that need to be glued together

into layers, then allowed to dry.

A. layer perch base whole circles and glue together,

taking care to align edges as precisely as possible.

After the stack has been assembled, press under

a flat object such as this fabric-covered re-purposed

free weight bar, or books, or equivalent,

until dry. This may take a few hours, but will prevent

warping or curling.

B. Layer each of the elements of the wing assembly
and glue together, taking care to align edges as
precisely as possible. Press each under a flat weight.

Layer the "whole" large wing components, with

slightly irregular offset margin around edges as shown,

first the second largest onto the base wing, then . . .

. . . the third wing shape. Press while drying.

Layer the "feather" three layers in similar manner
(except these have the rounded edges aligned
exactly instead of offset), first the top two layers, then . . .

. . . layer and attach to the bottom layer.
Press flat while drying.

Finally, layer the "feathers" stack onto the base stack,

with the slight offset, and attach. Press while drying.

4. Prepare the upper and lower beak shapes by

bending the triangle panel perforation lines back,

and the bottom edge tabs forward.

NOTE that there is a tiny wedge cut out on one tab
edge that will help identify the UPPER beak.

5. Form each beak into a pyramid shape, tucking
the side tab under the opposite panel straight edge
and gluing in place.

NOTE: it will be helpful to use a narrow tool such

as a skewer or a stylus inserted behind the seam

as a "press against" surface to help secure the seam.

6. Apply glue to the non-tabbed panel of one beak

shape, then position the two non-tabbed panels of

both together . . . 

. . . and press together to attach into whole beak
(make sure the edges are aligned where they meet).

Here is the completed beak.

(Set aside until later in assembly.)

7. Prepare the main body hull by bending back on

all perforations for panels . . .

 . . . and edges tabs or flanges.

(Bending direction may be reversed as needed.)

Also, bend on the interior flanges, taking care

not to create creases beyond the end of the perf

line into the adjacent panels.

8. Begin to form the body by working the back mid
seam, overlapping the straight edge over the adjacent
flange perforation line, and gluing in place.

9. Continue to align the next tail segment
straight edge over the next two tail segment
flanges, and attach.

10. Repeat steps 8-9 for the other side
of the body and tail.

11. Bend the center panel extension over to
align with the short tail end segment tab, and glue.

12. Continue to bend, align and join the under-tail
edges and flanges.
13. Repeat for the other side of tail seams.

14. Prepare the head/body front section by bending

back at the cross perforation lines, and also at center front 

perforation at top. 

15. Fold body tabs inward.

Line up the longest seam edge of front shape

along the corresponding two-segment edge of body

as shown, adjust for ends of seam, then glue in place.

Repeat for the opposite side head edge and segments.

16. Align and join the top head edges to body tabs.

17. Insert the beak assembly through 

the body cavity  so that . . . 

. . . it can be inserted through the opening fully
and the tabs blued in place to the inside surface
of the head.

18. Position and attach the bottom seams.

19. Prepare the crest shape by folding back on

the center perf line. Also add some curl to

the separate "feathers" using a tool such as

the stylus shown. 

HINT: curl some forward

and some back at the tips.

20. Position the crest over the upper portion of
the head, matching side and bottom edges with
assembly edges, and glue in place.

21. Prepare the mask by bending back on all
perforation lines.

22. Position the mask onto head by slipping beak
through the opening . . .

. . . and bending the edge flanges to fit head shape,
and glue in place all around.

23. Prepare eyes by bending at the tiny perf lines.

Position and attach the pupil circles over the rounded

portion with slightest offset, as shown.

24. Position and attach each eye, matching the bend
along the angle of the head.

25. Prepare the tail base shape by bending back

on the perforation lines.

26. Position and attach each tail overlays, centered,
on the base.

27. Position and attach the tail onto the body

assembly with top straight edge at body bend,

side flanges wrapping around sides.

28. Position and attach first wing onto body.

Position second wing on opposite side, matching

first wing position, and attach in place.

29. At this point in assembly, if the cardinal will hang,

thread twine (perle cotton is used with model) on

a crewel embroidery or equivalent large-eye needle

and thread up and down through back punched hole.

Remove needle, line up ends, and tie a large knot

as a "stop" to the loop.

30. Prepare the interior box by bending back on all

the perforation lines for panels and tabs.

31. Locate the front side seam edge flange

and the opposite straight edge that will join

together in first seam.

Bend the box to line up the edges and join seam.

32. Bend the front bottom seam edge of the two-part
lower front panel to match straight edge and glue seam.

33. Continue along one side to adjust box shape
to align and join seams . . . 

. . . one edge at a time . . .

. . . along one side of box and then the other . . .

. . . until the final back panel is bent into position
and the seams joined.

34. Position the box under the body opening . . .

. . . insert and slide directly upward until . . . 

. . . edges align. 

35. Insert tip of glue applicator

between box and wall to glue body walls to box.

36. Apply glue to the front over hang and press

into position to attach to box . . .

. . . and also to the tail over-wrap.

Here is the completed cardinal.

37. Prepare the perch stand hull by bending back

on all perforation lines, except bend forward

the bottom tabs.

38. Position and attach the decoration panel
overlays onto each hull panel, with straight bottom
edges almost even with the tab perf seam
(leave a one-cardstock thickness margin above
perf line if possible for fitting into base opening).

39. Bend the upper angle tab perf line and opposite
straight edge together to join five seams.

40. Form the hull into a tube to align and complete

the side seam and final upper angle seam.

41. Bend top tabs inward, adjust the upper opening 

edges to align with hex "lid", then bend 

into position and attach.

42. Insert the bottom tabs through the top base

circle layer opening . . .

. . . then bend tabs outward and glue in place

to the underside of the base circle.

NOTE: it may be helpful to place the assembly

on flat surface to apply fingertip pressure along

each seam.

43. Prepare the (optional) interior strut support shapes

by bending the bottom tabs back, then . . .

. . . slot the two shapes together at center
and push until top edges align.

44. Insert the strut into the stand cavity so that

ends fit into two adjacent angles, and push

fully in.

45. Position the upper assembly over the base circle

stack, align edges, then glue in place.

Consider using flat weights or clips to help join

the edges completely and avoid warping or curling.

46. Position the cardinal onto stand so that
front body angle roughly lines up with an angle
of the stand.