Kitty Standing Box with Heart

 

Shaped container consists of lid that fits 

snugly over base. Lid front overlay includes 

inner ears, cheeks and nose inset cut outs 

to assist with placement of eye lashes. 

Forehead wrinkles cut as a joined unit 

which is then positioned over front, glued 

then trimmed to match top curved edge of head. 

Layered-for-thickness tail can hook into base backside 

slot to make the kitty stand upright (or use 

opt. no-slot back panels to omit tail). 

Layered heart (with a message written 

discreetly on the backside if desired) 

can be held by kitty’s cut out arms. 

Box lid is large enough to have a standard gift card 

attached inside. 

Box measures approx. 4” wide x 6” tall x 1.25” deep 

(without tail) when fully assembled and closed. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A box front panel   B front overlay with arms cut outs

C inset contrast shapes for nose & nose base,

cheeks inner ears, closed eyes

D LID top shape boxing strip

E-F LID left & right side boxing strips

G LID bottom boxing strip

H BASE box back panel

I BASE box back panel overlay

J BASE top boxing strip 

K-L BASE left and right boxing strips

M BASE bottom boxing strip

N BASE cross bracing strip

O test strips (6-7) and slot

P tail (5-6) and reverse tail (1)*

Q large heart layers for stacking (3-4)

R smaller heart

*total quantity determined with test strips, slot

2. Prepare layered and glued-up shapes to provide

time lapse for glue to dry:

A) Layer and join together large hearts, taking care to

align outer edges as precisely as possible.

Position and attach smaller heart in center of larger

heart stack front.

Press under a heavy flat weight until thoroughly dried,

usually a few hours or overnight.

B) To test your card stock thickness to determine how many

layers of tail will be required to fit fully but easily

into tail slot, first layer strips into a stack, then . . .

. . . fit into the test slot. Add or subtract strip layers until

the stack fits fully but not too tight, allowing a little

bit of grace for the application of glue between layers.

When the target number of layers is determined, 

adjust and cut the tail front multiples and the single back.

C) Layer and attach each front shape, taking care that cut 

outer edges are aligned as carefully as possible, particularly

the half-slot where tail will hook over box back panel layers.

Layer the reversed back tail in same manner, then . . .

. . . test, if desired, by hooking over the layered back panels.

Press the tail assembly under a heavy flat weight

for hours until completely dried.

3. Become acquainted with the boxing strips for LID.

NOTE the small cut-in symbols of circle, triangle, square

or 'X' in end tabs or joining end tabs. These will provide

guidance regarding joining sequence.

Also NOTE the center tiny notch at center top of

top boxing strip.

Finally, check out the difference between the BENDING

 perforation lines (near end tabs and at corners of shapes,

and GUIDE MARK dash lines. The guide mark dash line

shown in this photo has been highlighted with pencil

for visibility.  DO NOT BEND. Instead, use to help align

transition point between straight segment and curved.

At the multiple tab segments, use a rod-like tool such

as this narrow dowel to add back curl in a similar manner

as curl would be added to curling ribbon. Add the curl

ONLY in the curved segment, stopping as guideline.

4. Prepare the top strip by bending at the regular perf

lines across strip as shown, with "valley" bends on

each side of center, "mountain" folds at all others.

5. Add slight back curl at the center segment where multiple

tabs will indicate a curved joining. 

6. Position curved tab edge along top of front panel . . .

. . . then fit it to the plain edge of front panel, with

the perforation bends aligned at the edge's angles.

Add fingertip pressure to create initial joining, then . . .

. . . flip over the apply fingertip pressure along the seam

until it is completely secure.

7. Continue toward one side, bending and fitting

each segment along the plain edge of front panel,

bending the tabs inward and matching the edge

along perforation edge, then gluing in place.

8. Repeat the process for the opposite side.

9. Identify the next strip end to be joined by locating

the symbol (circle shown here) that matches to

the symbol in edge tab of previously attached strip.

Add back curl with rod tool to the short end portion

taking care not to tear multi-tabs edge. Bend end tab

forward as a "valley" bend.

10. Position the end tab under the previous strip end

edge, adjust and glue in place.

11. Fit the curve and the straight portion to the panel

edge, matching the guide dash mark on the panel

to the guide mark "line" on the strip, and the end

of the strip at guide dash mark near foot curve.

12. Prepare the bottom strip by identifying the center

curve edge with 'V' cut out  marking the center,

then adding back curl . . . 

. . . to all the multi-tab segments for center, and 

rounded corners of bottom paws. Between rounded

paw segments, the bottom of paws have full perforation

lines where the strip should be bended forward as

"valley" folds.

DO NOT bend at the end tabs - these are guidelines

to assist with previous strip end alignment.

13. Position and attach side strip end straight edge

at new bottom strip tab guide mark line. Then . . .

. . . fit the curve edge and straight edge sequence

that will wrap around first paw to "valley" bend 

at panel corner, adjust, and attach in place.

14. Position, adjust and attach the center segment

curve edge, then repeat the around-paw step

for the final joining. 

15. Position, join the final side strip at end tab, prepare

and position into final front panel edge to attach in place,

while at the same time tucking the end tab under

straight end of top strip. 

16. Begin preparing the front panel with decorations

by applying adhesive to backside of "wrinkles" shape,

then position at top center with tiny gap between top

of head and header as shown.

17. When glue is dried, use scissors to hand-trim away

header and excess EVEN with head edge.

(NOTE that this may be easiest to accomplish

by turning front overlay panel face side down

to see the head edge more clearly.)

18. Position and attach the closed eye shapes

on each side of nose base cut out as shown.

19. Turn overlay shape face down to apply adhesive

to backside, excluding the front paw/arm shapes,

as shown.

Then position the overlay over the top of the LID

assembly, with outer edges even and aligned.

20. Position the inlay shapes of inner ears,

cheeks and nose base.

Finally, position and attach nose shape over base.

21. Repeat the LID boxing strip assembly process

to complete the box BASE. 

22. Prepare the base cross brace by bending end tabs

and bottom flange tab to forward to perpendicular.

23. Apply glue to backside of tabs and flange,

then position inside of BASE, in line with the upper

"shoulder" curve guide mark lines on each side.

Take care that tail slot remains clear.

Apply pressure to attach in place to side walls

and backside of back panel.

24. Position and attach back panel overlay over

BASE assembly, taking care to align slot opening

edges as precisely as possible.

25. If appropriate, a standard gift card can be

attached behind the front panel of LID assembly.

26. To close the box, fit the BASE inside of the LID.

NOTE that there may be slight gaps that need

a little double-sided adhesive tape assistance

to keep both wall layers close together.

27. To add tail, slide top end into slot, then . . .

. . . slide tail downward until it "locks" into place.

28. Finish the thickened heart by penning a sentiment

on the backside, then tuck under the free paws.

Use sticky tape or dots to hold heart in place.

MOM Stacked Letters Pop Out Card

 

Four “slices” pop out to stand in a column to allow 
bottom nib to fit into thickened base slot. 

Front slice is decorated with “M-O-M” letters plus 

leafy sprigs, shaded oval berries to celebrate Mother’s Day, 

birthdays, or other festive occasions. 

Folded flat, card assembly can fit into envelope sized 

for 5x7 card for neatly packaged giving. 

Coordinated “Env Leaf Berry” envelope design 

is also available. (NOTE that the design title in

the Silhouette America store indicates "oversize"

but this envelope is standard 5x7.)

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A front "offset" panel   B letters overlays for "M O M"

C front pop up panel (with attachment tabs at bottom)

D center pop up panels (2) with flat bottom edges)

E back pop up panel (with bottom positioning nib)

F back offset panel overlay

G "bridge" strips which connect slice panels

H base panel with nib slots   I reversed base bottom panel

J base overlay with slots for attaching front pop up panel

K opt. sentiment panel to place on base bottom

L & M berry base with overlay (3 sets of each style)

N sprigs large and single

2. Identify the base shapes for preliminary glue up.

NOTE that 5 panels will be stacked and glued up for

thickness as reinforcement and to provide a deep slot

into which the back panel nib can fit to keep

card upright when "popped out".

Below at left, 4 regular face up panels are shown, 

with the slot at the left. 

Below at right, the face up panel is reversed so that

the slot is on the right. 

(When the reversed panel is rotated to attach on 

the bottom of the stack, the slots will line up as needed.)

Stack the four reg. panels and glue together, taking care

that all edges and the slots align as precisely as

possible. Then quickly . . .

. . . rotate the reverse panel so that it will be

back to back with the glued-up stack, and position,

adjust and attach.

Immediately, press the stack under a flat heavy weight

and leave in place for several hours or over night until

completely dried. This will help minimize or overcome

warping or curling due to the use of liquid adhesive.

3. Prepare the front panel "overlay". Position

the long sprig over the panel, using the offset

"echo" edges as positioning guides. Use glue

to "tack" the bottom end ONLY in place, to allow

for weaving the vine and leaves  around letters.

Next, position the M bottom letter, tucking

the lead "leg" behind the vine as shown.

Finish gluing the M in place.

4. Position the O letter so that the lower leaf trio

overlaps the O . . .

. . . then manipulate the sprig so that the upper

portion comes up through the center of the O.

Reposition the O and glue in place.

5. Position the top M, then position the sprig over

the top, allowing . . .

. . . the bottom serif of front leg to overlap

vine and leaf, and the rest of sprig to overlap

letter. Carefully apply glue and attach in place.

6. Position the short sprig over the bottom M

as shown. 

7. Prepare the berry units, beginning with the "shadow" edge

base with highlight overlay as shown:

top unit here including the round out to imply attachment

to the vine, bottom with plain edges.

Overlay the highlight shape to align with side of base

as shown, and attach in place. Complete 3 of each.

Here is how the decorated front panel should appear.

SLICES & POP UP ASSEMBLY

8. Prepare the 4 bridge strips by bending

forward the end "attachment" tabs.

The interior tabs will also pop forward eventually,

however, it may be easier to thread through slice slots

if they remain as flat as possible at this stage.

9. Begin with the front slice. Thread the front end tab

through one of the vertical slots.

Push tab through fully so that perforation bend is

even with panel edge, then bend outward and glue

securely in place.

10. Continue in the same manner to insert front

tabs of three more strips of the front panel.

11. Next position the first of the interior panels

so that the bridge strips can be threaded through

the corresponding slots.

Continue sliding the panel forward until it is caught by

the first cut-in tab which has been bent outward. 

Apply glue to the backside of the cut-in tab and attach

to the front of the first interior panel.

12. In the same manner, insert the back tab of same bridge

through the corresponding slot of second interior panel.

Slide panel forward until it catches at the second cut-in

tab that has been bent outward.

13. Repeat the process for the other three bridge strips.

14. Finally, insert the back tab ends of each strip through

the corresponding slot (backside toward outer face)

of back panel.

At backside, bend tabs outward and glue

in place securely to back panel.

Complete all bridge strip insertions.

15. At this point, "prime" the slices assembly by gently

laying slices with back down on work surface and pressing

flat as the slices will appear when prepared for inserting

 into envelope.

Apply adhesive to the backside of the decorated

front panel, then position onto the front slice panel

and attach in place. NOTE that decorated panel

has a miniscule offset smaller margin in the design,

so outer cut edges at not intended to align precisely.

Repeat the process to position and attach

the back offset panel.

Press the assembly under a heavy flat object 

such as a book, possibly with something heavy

placed on top, and allow the assembly to dry.

16. Position the base top accent shape below slices

assembly and insert the front panel bottom tabs to

insert into the slots.

On the underside of the accent base, bend the tabs

along the perf lines toward the front, and glue in place.

17. Apply adhesive to the underside of the accent base,

then position over the layered base, leaving narrow offset

margin all around, and making sure the back slots

are centered with each other, then glue in place.

Press with flat weight until thoroughly dried.

18. To open the card, simple arrange the slices

so they are perpendicular to the base, then swing

the slices so they are one behind the next.

At bottom back, the nib should be able to slide into

the remaining slot to keep it in opened position

for display.

Here is the opened card.

To close, unhook the nib, flatten slides,

bend the base up behind the flattened

assembly.

19. If desired, position and attach the sentiment plaque

on the bottom of the base where it will not

interfere with the base.

ENVELOPE ASSEMBLY

20. Identify and cut the shapes for the coordinated

envelope:

A main one-piece envelope hull

B flap overlay with cut outs

C contrast show-thru for vines

D inset shapes for berry shading crescent

and berry main

21. To assist with positioning of the show-thru shapes,

turn the flap overlay face down, then position the contrast

oval (for the sample, the front of this shape is brown,

but the back is white) face-to-backside over the design area

so that the slight offset of the berry oval fits neatly around

the flap overlay cut outs.

Hold in position then lightly trace the outside of oval

so that it can eventually be returned to that place.

23. Turn oval face up, place a short piece of cello tape

beneath with sticky side up, then position the berry main

and shading crescent next to it within the oval cut out,

like puzzle pieces.

24. Now reposition the oval unit with insets to

the backside of the flap, taking care to fit it

to the traced line.

The coloring shapes should now be showing thru

in desired positions. Apply glue to secure the oval

and insets to the backside of flap.

25. Prepare the envelope main shape by bending side

flaps inward along perforations, bottom up, then

apply glue or double-stick tape between the edges

that will overlap, creating the envelope's pocket.

26. Position and attach the flap assembly, with

the straight top edge even with top perforation line

of main shape, curved edges an even narrow margin

all around.

The MOM Stacked Letters Pop Out card should

slide inside - take care about edges that may catch.