Rectangular gift container base has structured walls
that create a 1/4” thick rim with lid that
fits flush onto
it and is sturdy enough for holiday display year after year.
Rectangle lid raised rim has frame “mat” with opening
sized for vintage
postcard decoration
(not included as part of the cut file) to show through
(approx.
just smaller than typical 3.5”x5.5” size).
Search online vendors such as eBay for a postcard
that will be the focal point of this unique holiday gift.
Or, us a colorful contrast print or panel paper
as lid decoration. Lid fits onto base by means
of
corner flanges.
Box measures approx. 4.9375” wide x 6.9375” tall
x 2.6875”
deep.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main lid panel NOT shown: 2-3 additional A for lid strength
B lid frame for postcard
C vintage postcard (used in this project; NOT included)
D short "side" rim shapes (2)
E long "front, back" rim shapes (2)
F & G short & long accent shapes for lid and base
(2 of each)
H base main shape with slots for tabs
I long "front, back" wall shapes (2)
J short "side" wall shapes (2)
K outer bottom base concealer panel
L interior bottom accent shape
Just as information, here is the collection of vintage
postcards that were bid on and purchased through
eBay, with the basket "nest" Easter card selected
for this project. The total cost per card was under $1.
As historical value (since my card was affixed in place
inside the lid layers of this project), I document my postcard
here, with the post office cancel stamp that reads "1909".
LID ASSEMBLY
2. Layer and join together the lid build up and main
panels, taking card to align all cut edges as precisely
as possible. If using liquid adhesive, it may be helpful
to place the glued-up layers under a large flat weight
(such as encyclopedias or textbooks, etc.) until the glue
is completely dried, to prevent warping and curling.
NOTE: if NOT using a postcard to show thru the frame,
cut the TOP layer from a decorative panel or print of choice.
3. Carefully position the frame shape over the postcard
to center it behind the frame cutout, then glue edge
or tape edges in place invisibly on the back side.
4. Position and affix edges of frame assembly onto
the top of the build up layers.
5. Prepare the lid rim shapes by bending back on
all perforation lines, except . . .
. . . bend the bottom narrow
flange forward.
"rolling" the top series of segments into a roughly 1/4"
square tube at the top edge . . .
. . . so that this arrangement is achieves with the glue-up
flange tucked under behind the outer panel.
then re-roll into position as a tube as illustrated in step 6.
It is important to keep the rim in perpendicular position
fully along the edge. Use a wood block with square-cut
sides to act as a push-against surface that can be
moved along the edge as the tube glue dries.
to a short section at the side seam, overlapping
the short section's straight edge at the side flanges
to the perforation line, adjust top to bottom, and glue.
Repeat for second long and short pairing.
perpendicular form as glue dries.
Repeat for the second pair of long and short unit.
11. Join the two rim assemblies together at one end
by inserting or sliding the side tab of long side behind
the short side edge in similar manner to the way the first
two shapes were assembled, and glue the seam.
tool such as this tool handle tip between the rim tubes
to help the top tab join completely and firmly.
12. Prepare to join the final rim side seam by forming
the rims into a rectangle, taking care to overlap the short
side rim "miter" angled end over the long side squared end
at each corner angle, then . . .
. . . align and join the straight edge and the tab as before.
by bending back the inner walls.
Apply adhesive to the underside of rims all around, then . . .
. . . and press firmly into place (this view from front)
and apply edge pressure all around until secure.
14. Apply adhesive to the narrow edge flange of
the first long wall, then . . .
. . . and firmly tuck back so that the flange can attach
to the inside surface of the wall. NOTE that the bottom
edge of the flange may slip between the front panel layers
and outer wall.
It is IMPORTANT that the bottom rim face remain
perpendicular as did the front/top rim surface,
so do whatever makes sense to accomplish this.
15. Repeat for the second long wall inner wall and flange.
wrapping over ends of long side under rims to form
the miter "seam".
17. Prepare the base corner flange tabs so that they
can be drying as base assembly progresses,
by bending forward along the vertical perforation line
(NOTE these photos do NOT represent the correct
way to prepare these - follow the text instead) . . .
to right angle position.
Repeat for all four corner flanges.
BASE ASSEMBLY
18. Prepare each base short "side/end" wall section
and long "front/back" wall section by bending back on
all perforation lines, except bend forward on end tabs,
and bottom tabs.
19. Slide together a long and short panel by inserting
tabs into slots . . .
. . . and pushing together as snugly as possible.
20. Work the bottom tabs into the base panel slots
along a long side . . .
(This process will require some time and patience.)
NOTE how the corner miter edge of short side
is overlapping over long wall end.
On the bottom underside, bend the tabs inward
and glue in place.
Once the tabs have "grabbed" initially, turn the box
bottom side down to apply fingertip pressure
along the wall edges to continue to help the attachment.
Vigilantly watch to make sure tabs remain fully inserted.
with long flange wrapping around base panel edge.
Adjust to make sure the wall matches base panel
at ends, then glue the flange in place, taking care
that the base panel remains pushed snugly into
the flange/wall angle until secure.
22. Repeat for the first short wall, but first apply a dab
of glue where the top rim "miter" edge will overlap
the squared end of the long wall rim.
Also apply glue along the long wall side seam tab, then . . .
wrap the wall, push to glue the corner seam securely
while at the same time working to join the bottom flange
to the bottom panel.
unit, inserting long wall tabs into base panel slots,
then short wall tabs, overlapping corner miter edge
at rim ends, wrapping walls and adjusting, gluing flange
to bottom panel, joining corner seam, etc.
into the adjacent long wall slots as done previously
for the paired wall assembly in step 19, and glue tabs
to complete the side seams.
NOTE that in some corners, the tabs will be inset
and may require some ingenuity and a tool such as
a spatula to help apply the glue, then bend the tabs
so they can be attached in place.
to secure the walls to each other.
24. Continue to complete the base with walls wrapped
to bottom, side seam tabs tucked under . . .
. . . and all glued to appropriate surfaces.
NOTE that many edges and tabs will need to be
monitored almost simultaneously to ensure closed seams
and flush edges, etc.
25. To conceal the bottom outer surface of the base
where assembly tabs are visible, position and attach
the outer bottom panel which will fit nearly edge to edge.
NOTE that using dry adhesive such as a double-stick tape
dispenser such as the Scotch Advanced Tape Glider
at this panels edges is an excellent choice for this operation.
the optional contrast interior panel, which will provide
additional strength to the box.
(If the sample project's inner panel had been cut from
a more interesting selection of print card stock,
this addition would also provide some decoration.)
27. Position and attach the corner flange in the first
selected corner, with folded-back top positioned
to attach to the inner walls surface, bottom edges
snugly down against base bottom.
Repeat for the other three corner flanges.
28. Position and attach the decorative offset accent
shapes to lid and base, with lid-to-base edges aligned
exactly along the respective lid or base closure edges.
with corner flanges that extend above base rim
fitting inside the lid. Push lid rim down fully to rest
on the base rim.
Here is the completed decorative or gift box.
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