Lamb Large Cross Stitch Tag

Create a unique gift tag with an “especially made for you” touch. 

Or adorn a seasonal card or embellish a scrapbook page. 

Traditionally shaped gift tag has top panel with ribbon slot 

(accepts .375” wide flat) and reinforcement ring, 

with pair of eyelet accent punch holes 

(shapes also included without eyelet holes). 

Complete the EASY cross-stitch design using 

2 ply embroidery floss with fine blunt no. 24 tapestry needle 

with floss colors: dark gray or black head and body outline, 

white or light gray body, green and burgundy garland, 

light pink heart outline. 

(NOTE: only design stitching holes are included). 

A stitchery area silhouette cutout buffer layer 

and solid layer are also included as optional layers for 

a more finished final project. 

Cross-stitch count: 298. Tag finished size: 2.5” wide x 4” long. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main tag with stitching holes (2)

B stitching area cutout backside tag layer

C plain backside tag layer

D contrast tag top panels (2)   E slit reinforcements (2)

2. Make sure the stitching hole openings are free

from cutout waste (chads). One way to do this is

to use the end of a paperclip to push through to backside

then rub/scrape tiny "confetti" pieces away. 

(The next FOUR images are from similar bunny tag project.)

NOTE: my initial cutout of the stitching hole tag was done

using the new "deluxe long-lasting blade" which made

figure '6' cuts instead of completed circles for many of

the holes. When I changed to a standard fresh blade

for a later  cutting, the holes were round and complete.

Not sure if that would be someone else's experience,

but just a head's up in case that problem arises.

3. Position and glue together the two stitching layers,

taking care that all cut edges align as precisely

as possible, including stitching holes, eyelet holes,

slot and tag edges.

Press the glued-up tags under a flat heavy weight

such as this thick book or equivalent wood plank,

flat weights, etc. and allow to dry thoroughly

(for several hours or over night).

4. Position and attach the reinforcement accent shapes

onto the tag top accents, aligning the slot cut outs

of each as precisely as possible.

5. Prepare to begin stitching by assembling needles

and floss. This is the recommended needle type

and size: tapestry no. 24.

DMC floss was used for the model; select colors

of choice to coordinate with your paper choices.

Model colors: body outline 645 ; body filler 3866;

garland green 471; garland burgundy 3721;

pink heart 356.

6. Cut a 26-28" length of 6-ply floss, then separate

a single strand (shown is floss color from bunny project).

7. Loop the strand in half to bring the cut ends together.

8. Thread the loop end through the eye of 

the tapestry needle, then . . . 

. . . pull the double strand through to leave the cut ends

as the 4-5 inch 'tail', with the loop as the 'end'

of the stitching length.

9. Print out the stitching CHART or have ready access on screen.

10. These instructions will begin with the left leg

area of the design. Locate the first stitch on the leg's

bottom row - this is where the stitching will begin. Then

isolate the upper left stitching hole that will produce the first 'X'.

This is the hole where the needle will pass from backside

to frontside as stitching begins.

11. FIRST RULE OF CROSS-STITCHING:

create ALL stitches in same order direction.

That is, the "legs" of the 'X' need to be stitched

in the same manner throughout. For these instructions,

this will be: FIRST the 'right' slant

and SECOND the 'left' slant.

NOTE that the order presented in the above illustration

is optimum and may change slightly as stitching progresses

in order NOT to 'unstitch' previous stitches.

12. Insert the needle back-to-front in the hole identified in Step 10,

pull the floss through for just 5-6 inches, then . . . 

. . . immediately insert the needle front-to-back into

the bottom right hole of the first 'X' . . .

. . . and pull the needle

through to the backside, then . . . 

. . . pass the needle through the end loop . . .

. . . and pull the floss through the remainder of

the length, allowing the loop to slide into place

against the tag's backside and anchor the floss.

(This is how to begin each NEW length of floss,

and is referred to as "tying on".)

13. Regular stitching can now proceed.

Insert needle up in the next X stitch's top-left hole

(#3 in the illustration in Step 11), pull floss through

completely - taut but NOT tight.

Complete ALL of right slant stitches ACROSS the first row.

15. When the first row's left slant stitches are complete,

move UP to the next row, work across the right slant stitches,

then back across with the left slant stitches . . .

. . . and so forth,

until the left leg rows are complete. 

16. "Bridge" up and left to begin the body bottom outline

row, beginning ONLY where there are 4 holes

that will compose right and left slant stitches of

first 'X', (referring closely to the CHART,

then continue across to end of right leg 

stitch holes. Next . . .

. . . move down to complete the top leg's right slant

stitches. Continue downward, then return upward

as left slant stitches will be completed.

Back on body bottom row, continue to complete 

the right slant stitching to end, then . . . 

. . . return along the row to add the left slant stitches.

When the floss length gets used up, or when changing colors, 

it will be necessary to "tie off".

Tying off: with the needle on the backside of the work,

slide the needle under a few stitches of an adjacent row,

pull floss through completely, then clip even with tag surface

(this image is from a similar project).

NOTE: this is the same tying off procedure for 

any time stitching color is changed, 

or a new length of floss is required.

17. Complete cross stitches up the left side of body,

row by row. Follow CHART to add the "shoulder" area

stitches, leaving BLANK the spaces indicated.

Continue the "shoulder" row across the head to

the end of the row for the right "shoulder",

then return along the row to complete left slant stitches.

18. Move downward to complete the rows below

"shoulders" row that create the lamb's "muzzle".

19. Complete the 'gray' head, ears, and right side

outline by following the CHART and stitching procedures

as outlined. Add the stitches for neck garland, blossoms,

and heart outline, then fill in the body contrast stitches.

Be as neat as possible. Avoid long "bridge" passes

from one complete area to another by planning

to work back (often downward) to unstitched areas

with right slant stitches, then back up to active row

with left slant stitches as required.

Here is the tag completed, from the front, and . . .

. . . from the back. 

20. To make the tag's backside look nice, and buffer

the thickness of the stitching to avoid rippling at edges

where the layers need to come together when joining,

use the stitching shape glued in place on backside

 of stitched assembly, with outer cut edges, 

punch holes and slot edges matched precisely.

21. Position and attach the plain tag with openings

and side edges matched up precisely.

(Consider pressing under a flat heavy weight until dry.)

22. Position and attach the top accent assemblies,

one on front and optionally one on back.

Here is the completed tag, with eyelets,

ribbon threaded through slot,

tied with twine.