Recipes Box with Lid

Sturdy box is created with multi-layers thick walls.

 Base with fitted lift-off lid is sized to fit 

4x6 recipe cards. Dress up the tray with 

optional offset round corner accent overlays. 

Box measures approx. 6.375” wide x 4.75” tall 

x 3.125” deep when closed. 

Companion design “Dividers for Recipe Cards 4x6” 

will fit inside box base to help organize 

a recipe collection. 

(Box tray can also accept the jar insert assembly 

from “Box Tote 3D Jars Pair”, 

to create a box with lid to enclose jars pair.) 

Other coordinated designs to enhance the box: 

“Label Recipes Lrg” and “Labels Pair From Kitchen Of”. 

Requires 12x12 cutting capacity and stock. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes for

the base "tray" of the box:

A main hull shape + C end add-on wall

B (2) and D (2) add-on fold-over interior walls

E (2) front/back offset accents & F (2) end offset accents

G bottom platform (4-5 shapes to stack and glue together)

H multiple layer front/back interior thickness build up

I multiple layer end interior thickness build up

2. Identify and cut the shapes for

the lid of box:

J main lid hull

K, L (2) & M(2) offset accent shapes

N accordion fold front/back interior wall thickness stack

O accordion fold ends interior wall thickness stack

P wall interior thickness quantity test slot & strips

3. Identify and cut the shapes for the "liner" insert:

Q side front/back hull sections (2)

R bottom panel.

4. To test your card stock for hull of base and lid

to determine how many thicknesses to cut to insert

between outer and inner walls, use the slot test shape

and strips.

5. Stack 5 strips of textured cardstock (suggested) weight

and see if they fit through slot. Gluing strips together

will give an even more accurate calculations.

Design was created based on using 5 strips.

If your paper uses 6, or 4, adjust the cutting quantity

instructions included in the cut file.

6. Begin assembly by stacking and gluing up the components

that require this, in order to have them drying while other

assembly continues.

A) prepare to glue up the base interior wall thicknesses

for front/back and end walls, which can be identified

with the cut-in star shape, which is near the TOP edge.

Apply glue to one face, then layer two shapes together,

taking care to line up all cut edges as precisely as

possible. Continue to apply glue and stack wall shapes until

the target quantity is glued up (5 is the target for sample).

Immediately place the glued stack under a heavy flat weight

such as this thick book volume, with a heavy weight

set on top, and let the shape be pressed until it is

completely dried. This will require several hours or

preferably over night, to prevent or minimize curling

or warping of shaped glued with liquid adhesive.

NOTE that some cardstocks shrink and warp more

than others.

B) Prepare the four lid interior wall stack shapes by

bending on perforation lines in accordion fashion.

Apply glue between the sections - one of the faces only -

first on one side, then the other, so that the shape

can be stacked into a neat rectangle.

Take care to adjust the edges so that folds or

cut edges are aligned as precisely as possible.

Press under heavy flat weight until completely dry.

C) Prepare to stack the base platform layers by

first identifying the corner guide marks that will assist

to position and attach the bottom of hull base later.

Then, layer and stack the platform rectangles

precisely and glue together. Stack until completely dry.

7. Prepare the base hull main and add-on shapes by

bending back on all perforation lines for panels

and long tabs, taking particular care . . .

. . . where the "rim" closely-spaced perforation lines

are at tops of front, back and end walls.

To understand why these "double" lines are included,

this is the spacing that will accept the interior wall

thickness to make the box sturdy. In this image,

the build-up thickness is shown as it will later

be tucked into the space between walls.

8. Complete the hull main shape by positioning

the add-on end wall to the correct position shown here,

underlapping end wall tab at the center section of

main hull shape (tab will be on the inside of base).

9. Position and attach the front, back and end wall

offset accents. NOTE: for the sample, double-sided

"dry" adhesive tape was used instead of liquid glue

which has a tendency to warp or curl.

10. Position and attach the front, back and end wall

interior shapes at long tabs.

11. Once the interior wall build-up stacks are completely

dry, hull assembly can be completed.

Apply glue to one face (inward face) of stack,

leaving the edges free of glue a generous 1/4" in,

as indicated in this image by added dashed lines.

Position over the backside of the hull main end wall 

shape, between the bottom perforation (where end wall

attaches to bottom panel) and the double line perforations.

Adjust side to side, then "test" fold the inward wall into

place, and further assist stack to be in correct alignment

by using a thickened straight edge such as this acrylic

ruler to push against the double perforation rim area.

12. Bend interior hull wall back to apply glue to exposed

face of stack, then return inward wall layer into place

and adhere.

13. Repeat the process for the front & back walls

and interior thickness stack, placing and gluing stack

behind outer wall between side tabs, then . . .

. . . bending wrap-over wall into place so that . . .

. . . top of stack settles snuggly against the narrow rim

margin, assisting with thick straight edge.

But leave inner wall extension flat and free at this stage.

14. The next step of BASE assembly to join corner seams

by tucking side long tabs of front or back wall behind 

thickness stack of end walls will follow the similar steps

for the LID. (Refer to Steps 19-21 to see this explained.)

15. Prepare lid main shape by bending back on all

perforation lines for panels, tabs, inner walls, etc.

NOTE that the lid has double perforation lines on

wall extensions that form rim, exactly like base hull.

To avoid any confusion about which hull shape is

for LID, a tiny 'L' symbol is cut into one of the tabs.

16. Position accent shapes, offset within lid and walls

perforations that define those rectangle areas,

and attach in place. (Dry adhesive such as

double-sided tape is suggested to avoid warping.)

17. As with the base wall build up assembly, first

apply glue to the front or back build up stack, leaving

the generous 1/4" margin at each end free of glue.

Position stack behind the outer wall space,

adjust for side to side, then . . . 

. . . wrap inner wall over into position, taking care that 

stack stays snug against rim double-perfs edge,

using thick straight edge to assist. Then apply glue

edge to edge to second stack face . . .

. . .  re-position inner wall and glue.

18. Position end thickness stacks onto inside of lid hull

in manner similar to what was done for base.

But leave inner wall extension flat and free at this stage.

19. To join the lid's corner seams, bend walls inward

at 90 degree angle while tucking side tabs  -- which have

glue on both faces -- behind the front or back wall

hull edge. Push tabs in fully to that straight edge

aligns at tab perforation, and press to adhere.

Repeat for opposite end corner seam.

20. Apply glue to backside of end wrap-over wall,

then wrap wall snugly to inside of lid . . .

. . . taking care that the miter edges of narrow rim

wrap over the adjacent wall rims, and glue inner wall

in place.

21. As noted in step 14, for box base, similar wrap over

steps are completed so that front or back walls

overlap adjacent rims with miter edge on top.

22. Prepare insert liner by identifying the double "bite"

cut outs on floor and wall shapes (included to avoid

confusion, if necessary), then . . .

. . . bend back on all perforations for walls,

top flanges, and edge long tabs.

23. Join the liner hull at both side seams.

24. Apply glue to backside of top rim flanges,

then bend to inside of liner and glue in place.

NOTE that the liner's symmetry will allow it to be

flattened so that fingertip pressure can be applied

along surfaces where flanges are joining.

Press with heavy flat objects until dry.

25. Reconfigure the box to its cubic form, then bend

the bottom mitered long tabs inward.

26. Apply glue  to inward face of bottom flanges, then

insert the floor panel and press down into place so

that edges fit into wall/tab bends.

Apply fingertip pressure around edges to join.

27. Fit the liner into the base box and push down fully.

Apply glue between the walls to attach in place.

Use flat weights inside box with one side face down

to help keep walls together until adhered.

Then rotate to glue and weight the second side, etc.

28. To close the recipe box, fit the lid over the liner

flanges to align with base rim.

29. Take note of the corner guide marks on

platform thickened shape, then . . .

. . . apply quick grab glue such as Fabri-Tac to

underside of base box, fit onto platform with corners

at guide marks, and attach in place.

(This image shows the mason jar variation with

jar "liner" assembly in place.)

30. Add finishing touches to your recipe box by

preparing and affixing the "Recipes" label onto front, or . . .

. . . top.

A print & cut style label can be centered on

the underside of lid.

Print & cut 4x6 recipe card dividers are also

custom designed for this box . . .

. . . so that the lid can fit over them.