Classic
ice skating boot is composed of front and back
base panels (which include the
blade portion) that are
layered for thickness, and attached to a shaped
container structure between.
Front (and duplicate back) boot
has decorative
detail, including eyelet rings for specialty lacing,
cuff & heel accents
with faux stitched cutouts,
toe swirl overlay, and optional “knit stockings”
corrugated panels at ankle opening.
Thread ribbon or lacing through eyelets
then knot and
bow for realism.
near side
top for extra style.
(not including knit
stockings extension) x 7.25” wide
x 1.3” deep when finished.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A & C right and left base offset layers for build up (3 ea.)
B & D right and left inner offset layer with guide marks (1 ea.)
E & F vessel right and left panels
G boxing strips (back/heel, bottom/toe, front tongue)
H back bottom support tube (between blades)
I front bottom support tube (between blades)
(these shapes each have RIGHT & LEFT sets)
J decorative boot body K heel upper overlay
L heel stack overlay M soul overlay
N glitter swirl overlay O lacing hole reinforcements (8)
Q contrast 'fin' R 'stocking' extension (corrugated sugg.)
S blade base T blade offset overlay
2. Layer and attach the 3 front base skate/boot shapes
to each other, taking care to align all cut edges as
precisely as possible so that it looks like one THICK
shape. Then . . .
. . . immediately press under a heavy flat weight such as
the thick book volume pictured here, or equivalent,
to help avoid warping or curling (when using liquid adhesive)
until the layers are completely dry. NOTE that this may
take several hours or over night to complete drying.
3. Repeat Step 2 for opposite side/set.
4. Identify the 'corner' guide marks included on
the interior skate base layers. (Top back guide mark
indicated here; others include front top, back & front
near bottom.) NOTE that this layer is reversed for
the right or left side to which it is paired, since it will
be "rotated" to align on the BACKSIDE of
previously-layered build up. Then . . .
. . . position behind the layered set it coordinates to
and attach, taking care to align all cut edges precisely
as directed previously. Immediately press under heavy
flat weight as directed at end of Step 2.
5. Repeat for the opposite set.
6. While layers are drying, begin to assemble the inner
vessel by bending the "tongue edge" tabs of vessel sides
inward.
7. Bend the tabs on boxing strips back, and bend
back* along the cross perforations.
(*cross perforation bend direction may be modified
to match the vessel sides shape in next step.)
Locate and identify the cut-in symbols that will help
determine which ends of the boxing strips will join
during the assembly. Here the circle hole can be seen
in the side tabs of the back/heel boxing strip (left)
and coordinating circle cut out can be seen in
the end tab of the bottom/toe boxing strip (right).
8. Arrange the boxing strips around one of the vessel
side panels, re-directing the cross bends to match
the angles of the panel edge as shown, and checking
for position using the cut in symbols described above.
9. Begin at the top back of the right panel, with
top of back/heel boxing strip to line up the panel edge
to the matching tab perforation, with top edges even,
bend and first angle even, and glue in place.
10. Bend the boxing into position to align and attach
the next segment of boxing to the next facet edge
of panel.
11. Continue to position, align and attach the remaining
segments around back heel and bottom heel.
12. Position the next boxing strip to slip under
the previous boxing strip end to perforation line,
and attach in place. Then continue to position and
attach each boxing segment to matching panel edge
as previously done.
13. Position and attach the tongue boxing strip end
to the straight upper end edge of previously attached
boxing strip (triangle cut in symbols).
14. Position tongue strip edges to overlap the tabs of
the vessel panel edges, and attach in place in similar
manner as previously done with strips and vessel edges.
NOTE that the top segment of tongue will extend above
the top of the vessel panel edge (by design).
15. Prepare the two support tube shapes by bending
back on all vertical section and tab perforation lines,
and bending top attachment tabs forward.
16. Form each shape into a tube to bring the side flange
around to tuck under the opposite straight side edge,
aligning edge and tab perforation line, and glue in place.
NOTE that the tube can be flattened if desired
to apply fingertip pressure along the seam.
17. Position the back tube support under the vessel
assembly so that the narrow tab can be inserted
into the soul slot (wider back tab with oval cut out
should be directed toward the back) . . .
. . . then on the inside, bend the tab forward and . . .
. . . glue to the inside surface of the bottom boxing strip.
On the outside bottom, position and attach
the back tab to the bottom of assembly.
18. Repeat for attachment of the front support tube.
19. Position and attach the left panel of the vessel
to boxing strip tabs as previously done for right panel,
using the finger access openings as needed.
20. Assemble the decorative skate panels for right & left.
(It may be useful to lay out the shapes for identification.)
Position and attach (align edges that match up precisely):
A) reinforcement rings at eyelet circle holes;
B) heel stack overlay at lower back edges;
C) heel upper overlay at back edge above stack;
D) glitter swirl at toe - front upper rounded edges aligned;
E) soul strip at bottom edge;
F) blade overlay onto base - offsets at side and bottom edges.
NOTE that the wing and stocking shapes (shown upside down)
will be attached to the whole assembly at a later step.
20. Position and attach blade assembly onto base stack
so that bottom edges of all align as well as
cut out shapes; front and back shaped edges are offset.
21. Position and attach the boot assembly over base,
with heel stack aligned at blade back edge where
overlay is correspondingly notched, and with soul edge
abutted at blade assembly upper curve.
TAKE CARE to align decorative assembly's eyelet
cut out holes with those of the base.
Working quickly, press the assembly under heavy flat
weight until adhesive is dry - for as much as a few hours.
NOTE: if applying metal eyelets as decoration to
the lacing hole, attach those at this point, once
adhesive has dried thoroughly.
22. Position the vessel assembly behind the first
decorative panel/build up assembly . . .
. . . using the guide marks on the underside of
built-up panel to assist with the positioning at
upper and lower edges, etc., and . . .
. . . also take care that bottom edges of support tubes
align precisely with bottom panel edge.
then attach in place.
Applying some kind of weight to assist with attachment
is recommended - this may require imagination.
Here is the assembled skate at this point in assembly.
23. Position the 'stocking' accent shape to slip behind
the built-up panel, with lead (shorted) side edge placed
as far forward in the vessel as possible;
under-lap the lower edge by about 1/4", keeping
boot edge and lower stocking edge parallel,
and glue in place. Repeat for opposite side of boot.
24. Position the wing accent shape on top of 'stocking'
shape, with back edge aligned with boot upper back edge,
with lower edge abutted to top of build up layers,
and attach where shapes overlap. Repeat for opposite side.
25. Complete the lacing of the boot as desired.
Following are step-by-step instructions for the "mesh" style lacing:
A) at ends of a 60" length of lacing tightly wrap
a small piece of paper/masking tape to form . . .
. . . a lacing tip.
Trim excess tape, and chisel cut the end as desired
to assist insertion into lacing holes/eyelets.
B) Thread lacing ends through the bottom pair of
holes so that lace is centered across the boxing.
C) Thread right side through hole #3 outside-inward . . .
. . . so that the excess forms a small loop.
D) Pass the left lace tip through the loop . . .
. . . then back to thread through hole #3 on its side
outside-inward, then . . .
. . . adjust so that the interlock is centered over
boxing span. (NOTE: this adjustment will continue
to be made as lacing continues, even up to the end.)
E) Working first with right lace, and along the inside
of the panel, insert into hole #2, the hole just back
from where the lacing previously passed on this side.
F) Repeat for opposite side.
G) Repeat the insertion and loop forming on
right side using hole #4, and . . .
. . . passing of left lacing through loop . . .
. . . then through hole #4, then . . .
. . . then pull up slack to center.
H) Repeat steps E & F so that lacing tips work down
to #3 holes on the inside and outward.
I) Continue to repeat steps C-F until the sequence can
no longer be completed and there is one lace pass through
top holes on each side.
J) Thread each end across the boxing tongue,
inside-outward to as final pass.
K) Tie knot and bows then trim excess away as desired,
cutting tape tips away in the process.
(Attach - glue in place - small wooden balls or beads
onto ends as desired; see model in next image.)
26. Add additional embellishments as desired.
The model embellishments include: "Smooth Ice"
snowflake tag with ribbon threaded through a
hand-pierced hole above wing; additional glitter
on swirl; ribbon/brush/snowflake/twine-tied button
rosette with formed-swirl wire pics; jewel studs on blade.
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