Pear 3D Vessel

 

Traditionally the pear form has symbolic meaning 

(divine care, femininity and fruitfulness) 

similar to the pineapple in colonial America. 

Create this eight-sided “box” replica from cardstock.

 Lid and base fit together at midpoint, with 1/8" wood 

dowel-filled stem and layered leaf as decoration,

 optional oval lock plate platform 

(corresponds to Tim Holtz oval keyhole; 

or incorporate separate designs for

 Key Lock Plates Pair) and backside “hinge”. 

Base is hollow to allow filling 

(as hostess thank you contents or first gift of 

Twelve Days of Christmas surprises). 

Pear measures approx. 6.5” tall including stem 

x 4” diameter when closed. 

NOTE: to view the assembly guide for the optional

card stock version of the oval lock plate, click on

this LINK.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A LID wall wedge with top panel

B LID wall wedges (7)

C BASE wall wedges (8)

D BASE bottom octagon (hollow)

E solid & F hollow BASE "foot" platform octagons

G Lid & H Base accent overlays

I Lid reinforcement collar  J stem stack squares (4-5)

K collar interior "cover"

L & M Lid inside rim reinforcements/build up (8 each)

N hinge base and accent overlays

O stem tube   P leaf array

R Base interior accent "cover"

Q Base interior "hollow" fill-in

2. Prepare the glued-up components before beginning

main assembly:

A. layer the 4 "foot" hollow octagons and glue together,

taking care to align and match all cut edges

as precisely as possible (here and throughout). Then . . . 

. . . position and attach the hollow stack on top of

the solid octagon bottom panel.

To keep the glued-up stack flat while it dries, and

to prevent curling and warping, place the stack under

a flat heavy object such as this thick book until

thoroughly dried - may take a few hours.

B. Stack the stem bottom column reinforcement squares

and glue each in place, taking care to align the cutout

square particularly precisely. Flatten under a weight

until thoroughly dry.

C. Bend the Lid rim reinforcement shapes in accordion

fashion with center cross perforation folded as "valley",

outer two perforations folded as "mountain" folds.

NOTE that the inward shape includes a circle cutout

for easy identification.

(This is how the folded units should appear.)

Apply glue along one of the center panels, and 

press walls together to join.

Apply glue to the outside center walls and

press together to create a stack.

Press under a flat weight until dry.

Layer one outer and one inward (with circle) into

one rim reinforcement unit . . . 

. . . aligning folded edges precisely, and centering.

Press under flat weight until dry.

3. Prepare each BASE wall wedge by bending back

on ALL perforations except the top rim margin flange.

Notice the small "corner" that extends away from

the rim at the right end.

4. Prepare to join the first Base wedge seam by aligning

the straight edge of the lower segment over the corresponding

tab of lower segment of second wedge (left in this pic)

to the perforation/fold line, adjust edge top to

bottom, and glue together.

5. Continue to join the seam by bending the next segments

to align straight edge (right) across the adjacent edge

tab, and glue together.

6. Repeat for remaining two segments of first seam.

7. Repeat the seaming process for two more segments

to complete a four-wall wedges half Base unit.

8. Create the second four-wall wedges half Base unit

in the same manner.

9. Align the two Base halves with first half-seam straight

edge and tabs edge together, align and join

the side seam as has been done previously.

10. Repeat the half-Base seam joining to complete

the assembly of the Base "bowl".

11. NOTE again the tiny triangle extension of rim, then . . . 

. . . bend the first rim tab inward toward center of

bowl.  Apply adhesive to the underside of the narrow

edge flange, then . . .

. . . bend into place with cut edge aligned at 

the perforation line at the bottom of the top segment,

and glue in place.

12. Repeat for the next (on right) wedge rim tab,

adding a dab of glue onto the tiny triangle rim extension,

then overlap the tiny triangle over and to inside,

aligning and gluing edge flange along perforation line

inside, as for previous rim tab.

13. Continue to work around the bowl to overlap inward

and glue edge flange at perf line inside, until

all wall wedges have been completed in this manner.

NOTE that with the final wedge rim, the tiny triangle tab

will need to be tucked under edge of first wedge edge.

14. Prepare all LID wall wedges by bending back

on all perforation lines for panel segments, right edge tabs,

and top octagon (attached) panel.

Use a rounded tip tool such as this spatula hangle

to press inward slightly at the top panel center 'X'

cut edges to open the stem tube window.

15. Prepare to join the first side seam of LID by aligning

the lower edges of two wedges, then overlapping

the plain straight edge (on right) across adjacent

side wedge to perforation line, and gluing in place.

16. Continue up the seam to bend into position and glue

each of the remaining three segment edges for

this first seam.

17. Position and join two more wall wedges to complete

the first half LID assembly.

18. Repeat the alignment and gluing steps just shown to

complete the second half LID assembly.

19. Align the two Lid halves with first half-seam straight

edge and tabs edge together, align and join

the side seam as has been done previously.

20. Repeat the half-Base seam joining to complete

the assembly of the Base "bowl".

21. Bend the top octagon down into position,

and glue in place, adjusting each short straight edge

along the tab perforations as accurately as possible.

22. Prepare the reinforcement collar by bending

each of the edge tabs forward/upward, then . . . 

. . . positioning the stem end stack so that the cutout

squares of each align as precisely as possible, then

glue in place.

23. Apply glue to the underside of each edge tab, then . . . 

. . . insert the collar into the Lid opening as shown

(NOTE - it is VERY important that the collar be oriented

so that the center SQUARE stem opening corresponds

exactly with the opening at the top of Lid) . . . 

. . . pushing gently in at each tab until Lid edges and

tab edges line up precisely (or tab can be slightly

lower than the Lid edge).

24. Position each of the edge reinforcement units

on the inside of the Lid rim edge, centered along

the side edge, taking care that outer edges of Lid

and unit are even, and attach in place.

25. Prepare each Lid and Base accent overlay by

bending back slightly on each of the cross

perforation lines. 

NOTE that there is a "back" panel

accent wedge for Lid and Base that includes designation

holes for hinge. If no hinge is being used, omit

the hole-punched wedges and cut all accents as plain.

26. Determine the "best" wedge walls of both Lid

and Base, then if using the accents that include hinge

punch hole guides, identify/mark the opposite wedge wall

as "back" of the pear.

Position and attach each accent 

Lid wedge over a wedge with bends aligned.

Do the same for the Base wedges and accents.

27. Position and attach the bottom hollow octagon

to one wall wedge bottom tab, aligning straight octagon

edge at tab perforation, centered from side to side.

28. Align and attach opposite side edge to corresponding

wedge bottom tab, then align and attach remaining

 octagon edges.

29. Position and attach the "foot" stack over the bottom

octagon. . . . 

. . . taking care that edges align.

30. Prepare the "liner" shape by bending each flange

slightly upward/forward.

Position and attach one of the bottom octagon circle

cutouts (waste) into the bottom of the Base bowl to

fill in the circle cutout.

31. Apply double-stick tape adhesive (recommended) or

other style adhesive to backside of center octagon

and flanges of "liner", then insert into the bowl's

opening, and . . . 

. . . press down into position, with octagon perf lines

aligned with bottom shape of bowl, flange seams

aligned at wedge wall seams. Apply pressure to secure.

32. Prepare the stem tube shape by bending carefully

back along each long perforation line for each "wall" and

edge flange, top tab; bend bottom tabs forward. 

33. Form the shape into a tube, to bring the straight wall

edge around to overlap opposite flange to perf line.

34. Insert the 1/8" wooden dowel as a shaping form

into the tube, then apply glue to flange tab,

overlap straight edge over flange tab, then press

around dowel and glue seam.

35. Push cut end of dowel to be even at top of tube

wall, bend bottom tabs away, then mark dowel length.

Remove dowel from tube and cut to marked length.

Apply glue inside tube, re-insert dowel and push into

place until even at top and bottom, then . . . 

. . . apply glue to "lid" and bend top over into

position to attach to top of dowel. 

36. Insert top end of stem post through collar opening,

and up through Lid hull and through top octagon opening,

and push through till bottom tab perf bends stop

at collar edge.

Bend tabs back and glue to collar underside.

Position and attach the camouflaging interior octagon

cover.

37. Prepare the hinge by bending forward on 

the perforation line. Position and attach the accent

shapes so that the punch hole "guides" align.

38. Position and attach at the top (rim) edge of

the wedge wall where the punched accent was placed.

NOTE that the cross-perforation of hinge should align

along the rim edge (this is more important

than the alignment of punch holes).

39. Position the Lid so that "back" panels correspond,

open hinge, adjust Lid to be centered if necessary,

then attach hinge in place.

Position and glue/attach tiny studs over the hinge guide

holes as decoration. (Interior rim reinforcements, etc.,

will NOT permit brads to be inserted through holes;

see Step 45 for detail.)

40. Prepare and attach the accent key plate on "front"

panel if desired. One good choice is the oval plate

from the "Keyholes" from Tim Holtz metal accents.

Or use the sized-to-fit oval or rectangle lock plate design

that can be obtained separately from the Silhouette online store.

Find the assembly guide for those lock plates HERE.

Here the cardstock oval with brad studs is shown

next to the metal oval on the finished project.

NOTE that whichever key plate is selected should be

attached ONLY to the Lid, so that the Lid can still

pivot upward into open position. (The lock plate helps

the Lid fit onto the Base's rim.)

41. Use a sharp pointed tool (like an awl) to pierce 

the pear's hull where the lock plate fastener hole

on Lid is, then insert and use permanent hold glue

to attach the Lid's brad. For lock plate bottom brad,

use wire-cutter pliers to trim away prongs, then

position/insert prong stubs into hole and glue in place.

42. Since the lock plate does not actually hold

the pear closed, use a piece of strong-hold double-stick

tape such as the "Wonder Tape" featured here

placed and attached to the front rim to hold Lid

in closed position.

43. Prepare the leaf unit. Position and attach

the leaf/stem reinforcement shape over the leaf

base shape that includes the bend-forward

attachment tabs at end.

Position the leaf details overlay with tiny offset

at edges onto the scallop-edge leaf base

and attach.

Position and attach the overleaf unit to the base

unit (leaf edges align exactly). 

Add some back curl to the stem portion of assembly.

Position and attach the center stem/vein overlay

with tip end aligned over leaf accent tip.

Press under a flat heavy weight until dry.

Position the long thin stem accent over top

of contrast short stem and the rest of

the assembly, tip ends aligned,

and attach in place. Assist the stem to

maintain the back curl previously applied.

Carefully add some forward/upward curl to

the leaf tip area, avoiding the slipping of layers

to form wrinkles, or popping off of glued-on shapes.

44. Bend the end tabs forward, then position the stem

end slightly above the base of stem so that the tabs

wrap around three sides of stem with leaf directed

down the side wall panel as desired; glue tabs

to stem.

Bring the leaf gracefully down so that

the curl near tip rests on the Lid hull,

then attach with temp adhesive tape

or glue in place as preferred.

45. Finish the pear with decorative ribbon

bow tied around stem, if desired.

Here is the completed pear box, closed.

Here it is shown opening.

Here it is shown from backside, closed.

The ensemble can be completed and enhanced

by preparing the separate design Partridge Shaped Tag,

shown here.