Nordic Star Cross Stitched Tag

Cross stitch embroidery is completed on the doubled 

hole-punched scalloped tag panel, then it is 

sandwiched with optional stitching buffer layer, 

frame accent, frame front and whole back layers in 

a sturdy keepsake gift tag for Christmas or winter giving. 

Add oblong reinforcement ring accents on front and back. 

If desired, hand pen a contrast ink message 

at top of tag, or use the provided plaque shape 

to pen or stamp a name or greeting. 

Measures approx. 2.625” wide x 3.75” assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A cross stitch hole punch layer (2 for stability)

B buffer back layer for stitching panel

C front "contrast" frame panel

D front accent panel

E solid back accent panel

F slot "ring" reinforcements (2)

G sentiment plaque or print & cut panel

2. Prepare the stitching panels by poking out any

cut waste (chad) shapes that remain following cutting

and removal from cut mat. A useful tool for this is

a standard paper clip that is un-bent.

3. Layer and attach together the two stitching panels,

taking extra care - here and throughout - to align

all cut edges as precisely as possible.

Press the glued-up panel unit under a flat heavy object

such as this thick book, or equivalent - or place

a second heavy object on top of the book - to help

the panel stack dry flat, minimizing warping or

curling caused by liquid adhesive. 

4. Assemble the stitching supplies, including choice

of star color 6 ply floss, tapestry needle size 24/26.

5. Study the chart below to understand how multiple

stitches in rows are stitched efficiently across,

completing right slant stitches of the 'X' stitch first,

then at the end of the row, reversing the process

to complete left slant stitches. This is essential

to create a uniform front appearance, with neat back.

6. Cut a 30-36" length of floss from the skein, then

separate one at a time two plies from the length.

7. Line up all four ends of the two plies, forming looped

length . . . 

. . . then smooth along the length away from ends

to refine the loop end. Thread the loop end through

the eye of the needle. (Ends can likewise be threaded

through eye, but double ply loop is sometimes easier.)

Pull loop through to leave a 5-6" tail at cut ends.

8. Working from a printed copy or referring to the design

chart on screen, locate the lower left star point 'X' stitch

(left-handed stitchers may wish to reverse this). 

 NOTE it is easiest to work the design from bottom to top.)

A. Insert the needle from back to front in the top left

position of the 'X' set of four holes . . . 

. . . and pull thread through to front, leaving

a short loop on backside.

B. Insert the needle again into lower right hole

to complete the first right slant . . . 

. . . and pull the thread through within pulling

the loop on backside.

C. Pass needle and thread through the loop . . .

. . . and pull up to tighten loop flat against backside.

(This is the anchor-on process.)

9. If this was a regular row with multiple stitches,

the right slant stitches would be completed across

the row, followed by the left slant stitches returning.

The star point is a single stitch, so the needle is inserted

UP through the hole above the immediately-previous 

down-insertion, and thread pulled through completely.

Complete the left slant stitch by inserting needle tip

into the bottom left hole of the 'X', and pull thread through.

10. Move up to next row, to insert needle through

top left hole of first set of four holes that will hold

the 'X' at beginning. Complete the two right slant

stitches of that row, then . . . 

. . . move back to the left to complete the two

left slant stitches that complete the 'X' stitches.

11. Move up to the next row as for the second row,

and complete the first three right slant stitches,

THEN jump across the space to work the mirror image

"right half" right slant stitches of this third row . . . 

. . . but at the end of row, instead of returning back

with completing left slant stitches, move downward

to complete the second and first rows . . . 

. . . of the bottom right star point, adapting where 

needle is inserted as needed.

After working down, return to left end of

row three to complete the left slant stitches.

12. Move up to complete the fourth rows, adding

the "floating" single stitches as ends . . .

. . . jumping

across (on backside of work) as needed to complete

both halves of stitching according to the chart.

13. As the thread on the needle gets used up,

work the final stitch that is possible while leaving a few

inches to manipulate needle, ending with needle

to the backside.

Slide the needle under several stitch backs . . .

. . . pull needle through fully, then trim the thread

next to the panel surface. Re-thread and continue.

14. Tie on as described earlier, then continue to follow

chart to complete the rows in same manner.

Here is the completed stitching panel.

15. Position and attach the buffer layer onto

backside of stitched panel, aligning outer edges.

NOTE: this layer provides a bit of depth around

the raised stitching.

16. Position and attach the "contrast" (sample has

this panel matched to stitching panel) frame panel

over stitching panel ensemble.

17. Position and attach the contrast front frame

panel with outer edges and slot matched.

18. Position and attach solid back panel

on backside of assembly.

19. Position and attach the reinforcement accents

onto front and back of assembled tag. 

20. Prepare sentiments panel with penned

of stamped words, or follow prescribed procedure

for printing and cutting the "winter wishes" panel.

Position and attach between top of frame and

bottom of reinforcement ring.

21. If desired, decorate with ribbon and tied twine.