Baby Feet Stitched Tag Step Card

Self-standing easel card features multi-fold base 

decorated with accent overlays, eyelet trim 

with threaded paper “ribbon” strip. 

Embellish card bottom front with “Label Baby Flourished Word” 

separate design or another, if desired. 

On marquee at center is scalloped tag with 

stitching holes panel sized to fit the baby feet and 

tiny heart cross stitch design. 

(Stitching diagram is included in cut file.) 

Tag measures approx. 3” wide x 4.3” tall, and is finished 

with front frame layer, back solid layer, 

top front offset header and oval slot reinforcement, 

three varied “print & cut” labels to select. 

Vary color selections for girl baby, boy baby, neutral etc. 

Or omit labels to celebrate trail blazing footsteps, 

or mentoring relationship. 

Step card measures approx. 7” wide x 6.125” tall to 

top of tag when standing. 

Companion envelope sized to fit this larger-than-5x7 card 

is available: Env for Oversize 5x7 Card Eyelet. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A card main base shape

B front center accent 

C lower front panel and trim strip

D side "step" panel, eyelet overlay, 

"ribbon" trim strip (2 sets)

E back main accent panel

F back eyelet overlay, "ribbon" trim strip

G tag front frame

H stitching holes panel (2 for strength)

I tag backside "buffer" frame

J tag back panel (2 for strength)

K reinforcement hole ring, header accent,

print & cut strip "hello little one"

2. Obtain floss colors for footprints & heart design: 

(sample's DMC colors suggested)

footprints - 3779   heart - 3731

Make a print (or refer to computer screen) 

of stitching diagram.

Obtain blunt-end tapestry needles size no. 24 

3. Prepare the stitching shapes by poking through all holes

using some suited tool such as this un-bent standard size

paper clip, to make sure that all the "crumbs" are moved

out of the way and brushed off the shapes.

Layer the two cut stitching discs on top of each other

and glue together, taking care . . .

. . . that ALL the holes and cut edges align as

precisely as possible. One way to check for alignment

is to use the paper clip tool to push through corner

and other random holes, and make adjustments as needed.

Once adjustments are made, press the layers on

a flat surface with a heavy flat object such as this large

book volume - possibly with something else heavy

placed on top of it - and leave in place until completely

dry, several hours or over night. This will reduce or

prevent warping or curling of the glued-up shapes.

4. Prepare the card main shape by bending back

(mountain fold) on all perforation lines except 

the 2 perforations noted here with text as "valley"

folds at lower end of each side step, which are

bent forward.

 Also let the shaped connected arch

shape at top of front panel release. Crease all folds.

Here is the step card folded.

5. Position and attach lower front panel over

corresponding portion of card base, sides and

lower edges aligned.

6. Thread the narrow "ribbon" card stock strip through

the "beading" slots of the eyelet long eyelet strip,

beginning behind and coming up through the end slot.

Then weave up/down across the strip, ending with down.

Repeat for the two short strips. Adjust the ribbon strip

to be centered, then trim any excess ribbon strip

to be even with eyelet trim edges.

7. Position the back accent panel long eyelet strip

near the bottom of the panel, and attach in place.

For short eyelet strips, position and attach with

ribbon-side edge even with inward long edge of

step side panel accent strip.

8. Position and attach center "marquee" panel

over the front main panel of card base, with

narrow offset margins even all around.

Also position and attach eyelet accent assemblies

with lace outward, ribbon edge inward, on each

step panel, taking care . . .

. . . that the top edge of eyelet assembly is even

with the mountain fold at top of base card panel.

Position and attach back panel onto back of card

base with offset edges all around.

Here is the prepared base card assembled.

TAG CROSS STITCHING

9. Prepare to stitch cross stiches by cutting a 30-32 inch

length of 6-ply floss for the footprints (pink). 

Following substeps will describe how to separate single strands

from the 6-ply group to minimize knotting:

A) separate 2 plies by holding the grouped floss length

somewhat firmly between fingers of offhand, isolating one

ply to pull away, then pulling it gently away from others

while the twists of the group begin to bunch up behind it.

B) Place the two plies side by side and line up the ends. 

Holding the ends together,

smooth together to create a loop at the half-way point.

C) Thread the ends through

the needle eye. Pull the loop through so that it is . . .

. . . the long end.

10. Study this diagram to understand how to form

cross stitches for uniform appearance and tension.

NOTE that the RIGHT SLANT stitches are generally

placed across the row first, followed by the LEFT SLANT

stitches placed coming back across the row.

11. For this project, begin at the bottom of the left footprint at 

the top left hole where  the first cross stitch will be created.

Each square on the pattern chart represents 4 holes that

would be needed to create both the right and left slants.

A) Insert the needle with thread UP from backside

in the TOP LEFT HOLE where the first X will be made.

B) Pull the floss through UNTIL about 3-2 inches

of the loop end remains, then insert the needle

diagonally to complete the first right slant stitch.

On the backside of work, insert the needle

through the loop and . . .

. . . pull the loop tight to remove all slack.

This is the "tying on" process.

12.  Insert the needle through to front of work, in

the top right hole of the next stitch to right

of first stitch. Complete the second stitch on that row.

Return back across the 2-stitch row to add the LEFT

slant stitches to complete the cross stitches.

Move upward to continue to follow the chart . . .

. . . to complete the next 4-cross stitch row of 

right slant then left slant stitches.

13. As stitching proceeds, thread length will 

eventually be used up. Before length is 

unmanageably short, pause when the needle is on 

the backside of work as a slant stitch is completed. 

Slip needle under 3-4 stitches on the backside, then . . .

. . . slide the needle off, and . . .

. . . trim the tails close

to the surface of the work.

This is the "tying off" procedure.

14. Tie on the next length of doubled two-strand

floss, then continue to follow the chart to complete

the first foot print.

Tie off in the usual way.

15. Return to the bottom of the chart to tie on and

complete the second (mirror image) foot print

in the same manner. When completed, tie off.

16. For the heart stitches, thread on the customary

length of appropriate color (dark pink or selected),

then locate the bottom center first square to stitch

by counting squares in relationship to

previously-stitched design, and tie on.

Complete the 11 stitches of the heart, and tie off.

FINISHING

17. Position and attach the header accent and slot

"ring" reinforcement, then . . .

. . . position and attach the print and cut strip.

18. Add glue to backside of "buffer" frame, then

position and attach to stitched tag backside,

taking care to align all of outer and hole cut edges.

19. Position the front frame assembly over

the front of the completed stitched tag,

align outer cut edges and slot, then attach.

On backside, position and attach the tag back

panel in same manner. Then . . .

. . . press under a heavy flat weight until all glued-up

shapes are completely dry.

20. Add ribbon cockade through tag top slot.

Position the tag onto the front of the step card

base, aligning the last slant edge scallop of tag

with the rounded corner of easel extension cutout . . .

. . . which will align the bottom scallop edge slightly

above the bottom accent strip's upper edge.

If desired, position and attach "Baby" label onto

center bottom.

 Here is the completed step card with label.