Witch High Top Boot Decor Tutorial

Create some witchy-wear for your Halloween decor

using card stock, then add details including lacing, painted wooden bead,

wire spring to hold toe bat. Then decorate with the included shapes,

add "lacy" pumpkin pleated arch at ankle.

Add rhinestones, jewels, glitter - whatever you fancy.

Great alone, but can also be filled with candy.

Measures a large (approx.) 8" tall x 7.5" long x 2.75" wide.

Cut file that includes decor shapes

available from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store, SVG Attic,

and the new SnapDragon.com web outlet.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes.

A & B shoe sides

C shoe upper with lacing piece, eyelets

D sole (includes extension that is under toe

E back

F heel box

G tongue

H ankle lace

I bat fold-over (with eye piece, swirl embl.)

J embellishments patches, stars, web

2. Glue the lacing shape onto the upper.

(Image shows eyelets in place before curl added. Safer to avoid popping them off to curl first, then add eyelet rings as shown in next step.)

 Before the glue dries stiff, ...

... add some outward curl to the assembled shape using fingers or a rod-like tool s shown. Attach eyelets over punch holes.

3. Prepare the upper shape by folding back the tabs.

4. Position the toe top corner of one of the sides shapes at the tip of upper. Match and line up the first 2-3 tab perforations at the curved edge and glue in place.

NOTE: it may help to work just a couple of these tabs at a time, and be accurate on this rather tight curve to make sure edge and perf lines align as closely as possible.

5. Attach 2-3 tabs on the opposite side piece in similar manner. Then join a few more on each side, working no further than slightly farther than 1/3 of the way along the upper (to allow for access for the sole attachment, etc.).

6. Prepare the sole shape by folding outward at cross perforation line at "heel" end. 

Add curl to the long section. 

Fold toe tip tab and side tabs back.

7. Attach the sole's toe tip tab to the straight tip edge of the upper. Allow it to dry securely before manipulating the edges in the next steps.

8. Bend the sole shape back into its position so that curl shape echoes the side curve. Align and attach 3-4 tabs to one side, wait until glue is somewhat secure, then attach corresponding 3-4 tabs on the opposite side.

Don't complete any more of upper or sole attachment until bat is attached.

9. Prepare bat's "spring" by wrapping a 6-7 inch  length of floral wire (mine is appropriately green, but gray would also work) around a skewer or similar gauge rod. Wrap so that the "rings" are fairly close together and very consistently spaced, for a total of 7 or so wraps, or a length or approximately 1/2". 

Leave approx. 1/2" straight wire end extensions.

This is how my spring looks when finished and removed from the tool.

10. Use pliers to curve the top of spring into a hook or loop that will provide more surface and better shape to attach to the bat's inside.

11. Attach bat's contrast eye shape behind the head front. Fold the bat shape in half.

12. Glue spring hook or loop inside the folded bat body area, then apply glue to the inner surface of body and wings, fold and hold until spring and paper surfaces are secure.

13. Use pliers tips create a small "cork screw" at the bottom spring end, so that it can be "screwed" into the boot's toe. This cork screw may look simply like another "wrap" of the spring, but tighter or more compressed, perhaps.

14. Insert the spring end into the tiny toe top hole, then spin the bat until the cork screw end has been twisted into the interior of the toe.

15. Apply some quick-set adhesive (such as hot glue) to the spring and the surrounding toe tip backside, so that the spring will stay in place. Quickly adjust the bat from the front outside, so that it faces straight forward, then hold until adhesive is set.

16. Continue the upper to sides, and the sole to sides assembly by adding glue and attaching a few tabs on one side, then the other, until all edges are secure. Take care for accuracy to align shoe edge and perf lines.

This image shows how the sole heel section bends at perforation to match up to the shoe's side lower edge.

17. Prepare the back shape by folding at cross perforation to define heel section. Add inward curl to this portion of the back. Fold the tabs back. 

18. Join the back lower edge tab to the sole's back edge.

19. Position, align and attach side edges to back edges of shoe sides. TIP: When working along the heel curve, it may be helpful to attach the tabs at the "ends" of the curve first, then quickly work to "adjust" the edge to match the plain edge it is being attached to.

20. Prepare the tongue shape by adding some curl to the upper wider portion only.

21. Apply adhesive to the upper face of the  lower narrower portion, then insert behind the upper/lacing panel, push in until top edge is slightly above the pointy ends of the shoe sides. 

Reach into the shoe's interior with fingers to apply pressure from both sides to help tongue attach securely.

22. Prepare the heel shape by folding inward at cross perforation lines to form a sort of open-top box. Add some curl to the tabbed front and back sections.

Fold the pointy tabs inward, and the end tabs inward.

23. Apply glue to the tabs of one edge, align at the adjacent shaped edge of a side, adjust and attach. TIP: attach top/outer tab first so upper perf folds of each adjoining edge align, then adjust the "curve" of the tabbed edge to match the plain edge.

24. Repeat the joining process for each of the remaining three tabbed edges.

25. If desired, add some weight beads to the heel before attaching it to shoe body. I have used a small baggie filled with acrylic "doll" beads to a volume that matches the interior of the heel, closed and "sealed" with tape. Baggie is tucked into the heel cavity

26. Fold the top tab/flanges inward and glue where they overlap.

27. Apply a quick-grab adhesive thoroughly (but avoid spill-over) to the heel upper flanges, then center under the heel indent and hold with pressure until secure.

NOTE: There is a "front" and a "back" to the heel, but it will work either way. It was designed so that the longer curve faces toward the front of the shoe.

28. Add some outward curl to the side upper tips.

29. Prepare the ankle lace by folding into pleats at the inner edge. Fold the long perforations as "mountain" folds, then fold the shorter folds as "valley" folds. Glue the pleats into shape at the inner edge (or neatly machine stitch across the curve lower edge).

Center the lace arch inside the ankle area, inserting lower edge approx. 1" below shoe edge, the glue the corresponding section of the lace to the shoe's back. Curve the front ends of the lace downward to sort of match the sides' front edges, adjust, then glue in place.

30. Add embellishment shapes as desired, including swirls, layered star buttons, saw tooth patches, and web. You may also choose to embellish with glitter, rhinestones, jewels, paper appliques, spider, or anything else you have in your treasury!

The model boot also has 5/8" wooden ball beads that have been painted and varnished, then glued in place over the lacing ends.

Here is the finished boot from the side front ...

... and from the left side view.

Finish your presentation by inserting decorative tissue paper,
candy sticks, loose candy, etc.

Scarecrow Canister Wrap Assembly

In time for harvest season crafting

is another in the series of "canister wrap" characters

from SnapDragon Snippets.

New to this design (and compatible with past characters)

is a canister form than can be constructed from cardstock.

Or you can continue using the emptied and "stripped"

Crystal Light powdered drink plastic canisters.

This version includes dimensional eight-panel straw hat

with fringed over lays, dimensional push-thru nose,

straw bangs, and other face and clothing details.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes.

A canister body     B upper & lower ends

C bottom whole shape

D body decor wrap (front & sides only)

E face decor shapes with straw hair

F dimensional nose shape

G other decor shape

H hat crown shapes (8)

I hat base shape    J hat flange

K & L hat decor shapes

2. Prepare the canister shape by folding the top and bottom two-step opening tabs back. Fold the complete tab areas back as "mountain" folds on perforation lines. Fold the end tabs forward as "valley" folds.

3. Fold the canister body into a tube to bring the long side straight edge to overlap the opposite long tab. Apply adhesive, align straight edge at tab perf line (with ends of each aligned exactly) and glue in place.

It will be helpful when gluing this side seam to place the tube on a flat surface, then flatten the canister shape to apply pressure along the edges being joined.

4. Apply adhesive under the "rim backside" portion of the tab sections, then fold them to the inside of the tube and apply pressure until each segment is securely attached. NOTE that the edge tabs are NOT glued down, but are folded upward to extend toward the tube's center. These tabs will hold the rim ring.

Both top and bottom openings follow this same assembly and appearance. TOP edge has a deeper inset, to accommodate the hat flange insertion.

5. Apply adhesive to backside of rim ring. Insert it into the end opening of BOTH upper and lower ends so that inner edges of all canister panels adjust snugly to match its shape. (Rings are interchangeable for either end of tube.) 

Use fingers inserted into the opening to apply pressure to join ring to rim tabs underneath. Work around the ring to ensure all edges of ring and tabs are securely joined.

Complete rim ring assembly for both ends of tube.

6. At bottom of tube, apply adhesive to rim ring's top surface, then insert and position whole bottom shape over rim ring.

Apply pressure all around the edges until shape is completely attached. This is a rather gentle pressure process, since there is nothing hard or sturdy below to press against.

7. Prepare the decor canister panel by folding the panel slightly on its' vertical perforation lines. Apply adhesive to the entire underside of panel, then position and attach over the canister's front, aligning perf lines over canister body ridges. Smooth and apply pressure to ensure a complete join.

8. Prepare the dimensional nose by folding angled lines as "mountain" folds, tabs outward.

Fold the shape so that the lower left straight edge aligns at the adjoining angled tab perf line, and glue in place.

9. Assemble the face with eyes, cheek circles and mouth.

10. Apply adhesive to the top surfaces of nose tabs, then insert the nose through the face opening from the backside.

Here is the face and nose assembly in process, as seen from the backside.

11. Fold the straw hair section on the perforation line, tab folding under. Unfold, then slide the face assembly top edge between. Center and glue tab to face backside. 

Fold hair over face and crease well along perforation.

(If hair does not stay folded down into position, apply light adhesive strategically to assist.)

12. Position face/hair assembly over canister front, top edges even.

13. Position assembled suspenders below face, with top edge abutted to face lower edge, suspended width centered over canister ridge (half will be unattached). Glue the inner half of the suspended to the canister front.

Repeat for both suspenders. 


14. Add layered buttons between suspenders, layered neckerchief at face neck area.

15. Fold all hat sections as shown here, tabs back, top two cross perforation lines and inward (mountain) folds, and bottom two as outward folds. Bottom folds will form hat rim area.

16. Overlap two sections to be joined, with straight edge of middle segment of right section aligned at corresponding perforation line of the left as shown here. Apply adhesive to tab face surface, align and attach.

17. Fold the two sections so that the next higher segment edge and perf lines align, apply ahesive and join.



18. Repeat for the top segment.

19. At the bottom area of the assembly, fold the brim segments outward and upward, so that the narrow rim areas align (glue the tiny tab if you wish), then continue until the brim segment edge and perf lines align. NOTE that the tab in this area should be behind the brim segments.



Here is how the assembly should appear at this point.







20. View the complete straw hat assembly athttp://needlesnknowledge.blogspot.com/2013/09/3d-straw-scarecrow-hat-tutorial.html , following steps 4-11, to continue to join sections into halves, join halves to complete the straw hat. Then return to finish assembly here.

21. Add some curl to the straw decor shape tines. Curl plain shapes back, and lattice front shapes forward.

22. Position and glue a plain shape behind each wedge brim segment ... 

... and a lattice decor shape over the front.

Complete for all eight segments of brim.

23. Prepare hat flange by folding shape in half lengthwise, folding and gluing rim tabs back behind flange except keep the end tab opposite the tab end of flange free until ends are joined.

24. Form the flange into a ring, overlapping straight end over tab to perforation, then glue tab and end together. Fold final rim tab back and glue in place.

25. Insert edge tabs through hat base shape slots front-to-back, then fold inward and glue in place.

26.  Fold the hat base edge tabs downward.

Apply adhesive to the tab undersides, then insert the base shape into the bottom inner opening of hat. Adjust so that the tab edges are even with the inner brim rim perf lines, and apply pressure to glue in place.

27. Place hat onto canister by inserting flange extension into canister upper opening.