Pumpkin 3D Chunky Form

One-piece hull with back panel trap door for 

construction access goes together quickly, 

with chunky stem that is built separately and 

attached to top panel with tabs and slots. 

Curly vine with two-layer fancy leaf provided as adornment. 

Pumpkin can sit on table top, or . . . 

combine with "Candle Stand 3D Display" design 

(pumpkin bottom can include optional hex stub 

to fit into platform top) for a more dramatic display

(find Candle Stand 3D Display tutorial HERE). 

Add your own Jack O Lantern features if desired, creased and bent to match/fit pumpkin contours (information available in tutorial to acquire one such face). Pumpkin measures approx. 5" tall x 3.75" deep x 4" wide including stem. 

Add your own Jack O Lantern features if desired, 

creased and bent to match and fit pumpkin contour creases. 

Front triple-panel with toothy mouth, nostril ovals, eye shapes

are available as a free download through 

the SnapDragon Snippets online store (follow this link).

Pumpkin measures approx. 5" tall x 3.75" deep x 4" wide including stem. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main hull shape
B hull accent panels
C back accent panel "trap door" cover
D stem shape   E stem accent overlays
F leaf with scroll leaf overlay
G stem   H (opt.) bottom stub connector
NOT SHOWN: stem top hex accent shape

2. Prepare the main hull shape by bending back

on all panel, tab, side flange or wedge tab

perforation lines.

3. Position and attach the specific accent shapes

for each of the pumpkin wall segments.

4. Form the hull into an irregular tube to bring

the straight side edge to overlap the side flange tab

opposite, to perforation line, adjust top to bottom

alignment, then glue back side seam.

5. Begin at back side to bend two adjacent
upper segments back to align straight side edge
to opposite tab perforation line and glue seam.
Repeat for next seams working toward front,
except leave front two seams open til later.
Repeat for seams joining on other upper side.

6. Repeat Step 5 for the wedge seams

along the bottom segments, leaving

the lower front two seams open til later. 

7. Bend the front upper segment into position

to align and glue the front seams.

8. Bend the top panel into position, then
"squash" the shape slightly if needed to align
the top panel straight edges with section top edge perf
lines and glue top panel seams all around.
NOTE use the trapdoor opening to help reach
fingers inside and under the appropriate seam edges
during assembly. 

9. Repeat Step 7 for the bottom front section seams

as well as . . . 

. . . Step 8 to position and attach the bottom

panel to lower section bottom edge seams.

10. Prepare the stem shape by bending back on

all perforation lines, except bend 

the three bottom tabs outward.

11. Position and attach each of the stem accents

onto side panels (center side to side and

with bottom edges aligned). Also position and

attach top accent hexagon, centered.

12. Form the stem shape into an irregular tube
to bring straight side edge to overlap opposite
flange tab to perf line and join side seam.

13. Bend top tabs inward, bend top panel

down into position to adjust and align edges

and perforation lines, and glue in place.

14. Insert bottom tabs of stem through hull top panel

slots, then push fully into position.

On underside of pumpkin hull top, bend tabs outward

and glue in place.

15. Prepare the stub shape by bending back

on all perforation lines for hull side walls,

top angled tabs.

16. Form the stub into a tube to line up short side seam
straight edge overlapping opposite tab to perf line,
and glue side seam.

17. Bend stub bottom hex panel into position,

then adjust so that walls align with top panel

edges, and attach each edge in place.

NOTE that the top tab seams may be best joined
by inverting the assembly on flat work surface
and inserting finger tip to apply pressure from backside.

18. Prepare the insert the stub into the hull

to be placed in the hull bottom panel hex opening

(only possible when using the appropriate hull shape

that includes the stub hex hole) by adding glue dab

to each of the stub tabs outer top surface.

Then insert into hull interior through back trap door
opening, then move it down . . . 

. . . to insert through the hex opening
and push fully through so that the tabs with
glue will seat against bottom panel backside
and attach securely.

19. Position and attach the trap door cover
to hide the assembly.

20. Position and attach the vine top end
so that lower edge seats at back bottom edge
of dimensional stem panel.

21. Position and attach accent leaf over

main leaf with offset margin all around.

22. Position leaf as desired with leaf stem 
attaching at vine base end. Also attach
leaf tip where it overlaps vine.
NOTE: as desired, consider gluing leaf edge
to pumpkin hull for better security in place.

23. Fit the pumpkin onto the stand by slotting

the bottom hex stub into the hex recess on

candle stand top platform.

You can find the tutorial for the candle stand HERE .

24. If desired, the dimensional pumpkin can be

converted into a Jack O Lantern by using

a special three-part accent overlay with

face cutouts of your choice; face shapes

will need to have the crease bends of accent panel

and pumpkin form duplicated onto them so

they will fit property.

A "free" shapes download is available

by following this LINK to the

SnapDragon Snippets online store.

Begin by positioning and attaching the front accent panel

which extends pretty much edge to edge

across the three front and side front panels,

as well as top to bottom.

Then . . . 

. . . position the mouth shape with bends
aligning over the hull/accent bends, near
the bottom of the accent panel.
Position and attach the eyes with bends
similarly aligned, near top of front panel.
Then position and attach the nostrils.

Here is the Jack O Lantern Shape.

(Leaf and vine optional, of course.)

Candle Stand 3D Display

Dimensional display stand is versatile for many uses, 

including as custom display for 

"Pumpkin 3D Chunky Form"  (when it is built with bottom hex stub

and candle stand includes top center recess to accept it).  

Form is created with base and second level platforms, 

lower post contour with "bulb", post wrap with 

inserted 3/4" wooden dowel for strength, 

upper platform with contour below. "

Short stand as shown measures 

approx. 7.375" tall x 4.75" deep x 5.25" wide, 

(with two taller post variations at 8.375" and 9.375" tall). 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A base 1 (bottom) main shape  B base 1 boxing strip

C base 1 side accent shapes (6)

D bottom "foot" build up (6)

E base 1 post anchor hexagon build up shapes (6)

F base 1 top accent

G base 2 hexagon and cut on boxing strip

H lower contour shape

I "bead" shape    J post

K top platform hexagon with cut on boxing strip

L platform post anchor hex build up shapes (6)

M platform brace angled contour

N platform interior support

O platform top "cover" (this one accepts pumpkin stub)

2. Prepare the built-up shapes so they can be drying:

A) layer and attach the post anchor hexagons

into a stack of 6 for base 1 and a stack of 6 for

platform bottom; take care that all cut shapes

of interior and exterior line up as precisely as possible.

Flatten with a heavy weight during the drying process

to reduce or eliminate warping or curling

(this may take several hours).

B) layer and attach the bottom "foot" base

shapes to create a single stack with 6 shapes.

(NOTE the sample uses a different card stock

for the "interior" shapes with top shape cut from

accent color card.)

3. Prepare base 1 bottom by bending back

on all perforation lines of main shape and

add-on boxing shape.

Attach the add-on shape by overlapping it's plain

"left" end over the tab of main shape to perf line,

and gluing in place . . . 

. . . to prepare a single shape as shown.

4. While base 1 is still flat, position and attach 

the large hexagon shape with slots and center hex

cutout (make sure all accent openings align

so that main shape openings are clear).

5. On the inside of base bottom (opposite the hex

and slot openings), position and attach the post

anchor build up shape, aligning hex corners at

tiny cut guide marks that can be seen even

on the backside of the base.

6. Form the boxing strip portion into a ring to

align the short side straight edge with opposite tab,

then overlap edge to tab perf line and glue in place.

7. Position and adjust the base hex so that

edges align with boxing perf lines, then glue each

boxing tab/flange under the hexagon edge.

NOTE it may be helpful at this step and others like

it that will be completed subsequently to position

and align the middle boxing segment and hex edge

that is opposite the "attached" hex edge first, then

adjust the two segments and edges in between

on each side.

It will also be helpful to place the face side of base

hex on flat work surface and apply finger pressure

along the boxing flanges from the inside.

8. Prepare base 1 structure by bending back on

all boxing and tab or flange perforation lines, EXCEPT

 please note that three of the bottom edge tabs

and actually support tabs and remain unbent

throughout. DO NOT bend these.

9. Form the boxing strip into a ring to align

and attach the side wall tab under the opposite

short wall straight edge in similar manner to

side wall tab joining for base 1, Step 6.

10. Bend the base 2 top hexagon into position

to align and attach boxing flanges under . . . 

 

. . .the hex edges as for base 1 bottom hex, Step 7.

11. Prepare the lower contour shape by bending

back on all panel, tab and flange perforation lines.

12. Form the contour shape into a hex tube to bring
the straight side edge to overlap the flange opposite
to perforation line, adjust top and bottom
for proper alignment, then glue side seam.

13. Bend the top panels inward slightly

to align straight edge overlapping adjacent

wedge tab to perforation line, and glue in place.

Complete all 6 angled short seams.

14. Insert each contour bottom tabs into slots

found on top panel of base 2, then push in

completely.

On underside of base 2, bend back 3 only short tabs

and glue these securely to underside of base 2.

NOTE: the support tabs remain unbent.

15. Insert the bottom edge tabs of base 2

into the slots of base 1 top panel, then . . . 

. . . work fully through, bend all tabs outward

so they can be glued to the underside of top panel.

16. Identify the corner guidemarks for base 1

shape that are cut into the "foot" build up layers.

Then position the bottom panel of base 1

onto the foot top with corners and marks aligned,

and glue securely in place.

17. Prepare the post "wrap" shape by bending

back on all vertical panel and flange perforation lines.

NOTE: there are three different post lengths

included in the cut file.

18. Using the uncut 3/4" wooden dowel as a form,

wrap the post shape about it, overlapping the straight

long side edge over the opposite long flange,

and glue the long seam, working finger pressure

back and forth along the seam edges to ensure that

the overlap remains as tight as possible,

with straight edge aligned at perforation properly.

19. With the post tube in place at end of dowel,

with ends even, carefully mark the cut length

of the dowel at the edge of the post wrap.

Carefully cut the dowel to that length, checking

to ensure cuts are perpendicular; sand any

inconsistencies or high spots away, before

gluing the post shape onto the dowel.

20. Insert the post/dowel unit through the top
of the lower contour . . . 

. . . then continue through the hex openings
of base 2 and out through top panel hex opening
at top panel of base 1.

21. Post bottom will fit into the anchor hex opening

and be held in place. Apply glue to the inside

and to build up inside edges, then . . . 

. . . bend base 1 flanges inward, apply glue to

the flanges, then fit the top panel of base 1

into position with boxing and edges aligned and attached

as with previous steps. At the same time, 

push the post into position with bottom end

fitted into the anchor hex opening.

Hold post in perpendicular position until glue is dry.

22. Prepare the "bead" bulb shape by bending back

on all perforation lines, except bend the top

and bottom petal tabs forward.

23. Form the bead shape into a tube to bring

opposite edges together, and glue center tab

under center straight edge first.

Continue the assembly by attaching the upper
and lower angled seams. Finally, bend the tiny panels
back slightly to align edge and tab perforation line
for the 5 short seams around top, and also
for the 5 seams around bottom.

23. Insert bead over the post top, and . . . 

. . . slide it down into position so that petal tabs

overlap the straight top edges of lower contour.

Glue the bottom petals to top of lower contour,

and glue the top petals to the post.

24. Prepare the platform (top) shape by bending back

on all perforation lines for panels, boxing panels,

and flanges/tabs.

25. Position the post anchor onto the bottom face side

of the platform shape, using the cut guide marks

to align the build up stack corners, and glue in place.

26. Form the boxing strip into a ring to position

and attach the side seam.

27. Bend the bottom platform panel into position

to overlap the flange tabs, align and attach all around.

28. Prepare the under-platform brace contour shape

by bending back on all perforation lines between

panels, bend forward at upper and lower edge tabs

and petal tabs.

29. Form the brace shape into a pyramid "tube"
to bring side straight edge to overlap opposite
flange, adjust and glue the seam.

30. Insert the upper brace tabs into the platform
slots, then . . . 

. . . bend tabs back and glue in place.

31. Bend the top flanges inward, bend top panel

into position and attach in place to flanges.

Use the hex opening as construction access as

for previous similar base assembly. NOTE it may be

helpful to use a flat blade tool such as the spatula

tool shown here to reach under the rim to provide

a "press-against" surface to attach flange and rim.

32. Apply glue inside the anchor interior recess

and build up edges (as for the bottom end of post

in Step 21) by inserting applicator tip through

bottom opening of platform brace as shown.

Insert post top end through same opening to

seat it into the anchor recess, then . . .

. . . apply pressure to firmly attach post to
platform bottom panel, taking care to maintain
perpendicular position between post and platform.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!

33. Apply glue and attach the brace lower petal tabs
to post.

34. Prepare the platform interior support strip

by bending back on short vertical perf lines,

also bending the top and bottom tabs back.

35. Form the strip into a square to overlap
wall straight edge over opposite tab and complete
side seam.

36. Apply glue to bottom tabs, then insert support frame

into the platform top hex opening and position

on inside bottom (backside) panel.

NOTE: if using the platform accent "cover" that

includes the hex recess for pumpkin stub,

take care that support frame will be positioned

to NOT interfere with stub.

37. Position and attach plain top panel cover

to hide construction inside. OR follow the next

steps to prepare the alternate cover that will accept

the pumpkin stub.

38. Prepare the alternate cover shape by bending

the wedge tabs at center back/downward,

and then the tiny tips bending forward as shown.

39. Position the alternate cover and attach.

This image shows how the pumpkin bottom stub

can fit into the recess to help keep it in place.

Position the pumpkin (or other form with stub)

onto the platform, glue in place if desired,

or use other temporary sticky substance as desired.

Here is the completed project,

with decorative ribbon tied around post.