Hearts In Heart Stitched Orn and Card

 

Layer the punch hole stitching panels 

for strength, then use tapestry needle and 

one color of floss to add cross stitches 

to create the hearts-within-heart design. 

Additional base layers add thickness and sturdiness

for heart shaped ornament or round ornament tag.

Card measures approx. 5”x5” when completed. 

Ornament measures approx. 4.25”x4.16”.

Both stitched projects have identical cross stitching

and similar assembly steps.

The heart shaped card ornament will be explained

first in this tutorial, followed at Step 19 by 

several images that will show how the card 

round ornament are different.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A stitching grid punched hearts 

(2 to layer and attach for sturdiness)

B stitching chart with one color floss

C buffer accent heart layers (2 for thickness)

D accent heart (whole)

E scalloped heart

F base heart front (2 for sturdiness)

G opt. "card back" heart

H opt. heart card interior sentiment plaque

2. Prepare the two stitching hole-punched hearts

by making sure that all "chads" or cut out "crumbs"

are removed. One way to do this is to bend 

a standard paper clip end straight then use it

to poke through all holes not already vacant,

then brush or scrape away extra bits.

3. Position smaller front heart on top of second

contrast heart layer, and, working quickly,

attach together, taking care

that ALL outer cut edges plus stitch holes and

hang hole edges align as precisely as possible.

One way to check that the holes align is to use

the paper clip tool to poke through various holes

across the panel, particularly at edges and corners, etc.

Press the glued-up punch hole heart unit under

a heavy flat object such as this thick book volume,

possibly with something else heavy placed on top,

and leave in place until thoroughly dried.

This could require several hours or over night.

4. Complete other pre-assembly tasks:

a) layer and attach the heart base shapes

together, taking care to align all cut edges

as accurately as possible;

b) position and attach the scalloped heart accent

onto front of card base layers, then

press the unit under heavy object until dried;

c) layer and attach the buffer shape layers,

taking care to align cut edges; press under weight.

HEART CROSS STITCHING

5. To complete the project, use size 22-24 tapestry 

(blunt tip) stitching needles.

6. Prepare to stitch by cutting a 32-36 inch

length of 6-ply floss for the main color. 

Following these steps below (with some images 

from a different project) which describe how 

to separate single strands

from the 6-ply group to minimize knotting:

A) Separate 2 plies by holding the grouped floss length

somewhat firmly between fingers of offhand, isolating one

ply to pull away, then pull it gently away from others 

while the twists  of the group begin to bunch up behind it.

B) Place the two plies side by side and line up the ends.

Bring end pairs together to create a loop opposite end. 

C) Thread the ends through

the needle eye. 

Pull the ends through then adjust loop so that it is

the long end.

7. Study this diagram to understand how to form

cross stitches for uniform appearance and tension.

NOTE that the RIGHT SLANT stitches are generally

placed across the row first, followed by the LEFT SLANT

stitches placed coming back across the row.

8. For this project, begin at the bottom center where 

 the first cross stitch will be created.

Each square on the pattern chart represents 4 holes that

would be needed to create both the right and left slants.

A) Insert the needle with thread UP from backside

in the TOP LEFT HOLE where the first X will be made.

This closeup from a different heart project shows more 

clearly where the first cross unit will be made. 

Needle is inserted up through

the top left hole of the four that are used for

first cross. NOTE that the first hole on second

row of holes is NOT used for bottom-most row.

B) Pull the floss through UNTIL about 3-2 inches

of the loop end remains, then insert the needle

diagonally to complete the first right slant stitch.

On the backside of work, insert the needle

through the loop and . . . 

. . . pull the loop tight to remove all slack.

This is the "tying on" process.

9. Insert the needle through to front of work, in

the top right hole, then . . .

. . . insert the needle through to back of work, 

in the bottom left hole to complete  the left slant 

of the only cross stitch on bottom row.

10. Move upward as shown on the chart to continue

 to follow the chart . . . 

. . . to complete that row, creating one cross stitch at

the far left position, and one at the far right position,

with a skipped or blank space between.

11. Follow the chart to complete the third row with

stitches and spaces. Then . . .

. . . move upward to complete the third row,

and so forth.

12. As stitching proceeds, thread length will 

eventually be used up. Before length is 

unmanageably short, pause when the needle is on 

the backside of work as a slant stitch is completed. 

Slip needle under 3-4 stitches on the backside, then . . .

. . . slide the needle off, and trim the tails close

to the surface of the work.

This is the "tying off" procedure.

13. Continue to complete the rows of the design,

until all stitches are in place, and tie off final time.

FINISHING

14. Prepare to attach the buffer assembly behind  

the stitched heart with glue applied to backside

of the stitched heart by positioning so that

stitching in within the buffer opening, then . . .

. . . immediately turning the assembly over,

and adjusting so that the accent margin is

even all around. Apply pressure to secure.

15. Position the whole accent base under

the stitching assembly, adjust and glue in place.

Press under flat weight until dried.

16. Prepare the card back (if creating that version)

by bending the upper portion of the back panel

forward as the hinge. Then . . .

. . . position the upper portion back to back to

align scallop edges and hang loop of both

elements, and glue together only at upper portion.

Press flat.

17. If desired, position the message plaque

onto the inner surface of the card back

lower portion, and glue in place.

18. Add a length of ribbon and tie in knot

or knot & bow as shown.

CARD WITH ROUND STITCHED ORNAMENT

19. Identify and cut the shapes:

A heart disc with punch holes grid for stitching

(2 shapes to layer for sturdiness)

B stitching guide with one color floss

C buffer layers (2 for thickness)

D ornament whole disc back panel

E card front accent panel with ribbon punches

F card base with ribbon punches

(top fold card)

20. Follow Steps 2-3 above to layer, align, glue together,

check for alignment, and press until dry.

21. Layer and attach the buffer layers together

and press flat.

22. Prepare the card base by bending back at

cross perforation line.

23. Position and attach the front accent panel

to the front of the card base, taking care to align

the ribbon holes, also adjusting to make sure

scallop edges are equal distance from base

straight edges all around.

24. Refer to Steps 5-15 to complete the heart stitching

design onto disc grid.

25. Position and attach the buffer layers to backside

of the stitching panel, reversing to view . . .

. . . from front to ensure that the stitching disc

is exactly vertical, with equal offset margin

all around.

26. Position and attach the whole ornament shape

to backside of the stitched assembly. Press flat.

27. Thread a length of ribbon through the pair of

ribbon holes of front panel/card base, then . . .

. . . complete by tying a bow; trim ends.

(NOTE: the bow may require some adjusting

and possibly temp sticky dots to keep it

arranged as desired, and as shown here.)

Here is another view of the completed card.

Snowmen Quartet 3D Planks

 

A quartet of box lids fits into their bases to create 
“plank” boxes with layered-for-thickness hat brims 

and accent panels, plus faces with dimensional noses.  

Finish each of the different heights with 

icy letters that spell S N O W. 

Stand in a row as is shown, or

overlap and attach planks together for 

a standing display to celebrate winter. 

Box planks range from 8.5” to 6.5” tall x 

3” wide x 1.25” deep. 

Overall ensemble measures approx. 11.75” wide. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

(shown below are shapes for 1 representative

plank - the 'S' box)

A box lid with nose attachment cut outs

B box base

C & D interior strut support strips upper & lower

E front panel   F front hat crown panel with snowflake

G build up hat brim strips (6-7)  H hat brim face strip

I eyes with contrast underlays (2 ea.)

K icicle upper & lower accents for 'S'

L 'S' letter cut out

PRELIMINARY ASSEMBLY

2. Layer hat brim strips for thickness and attach together,

taking care to align all cut edges as precisely

as possible, then . . .

. . . position and attach the brim face strip on top

of stack, align precisely, and glue in place.

Immediately place the stack on a flat surface

and press with a heavy flat weight such as

this muslin-covered re-purposed free weight bar

and leave in place for several hours or over night.

Pressing helps liquid-glued up stacks to stay

flat, minimizing warping and curling.

3. Stack eyes and contrast base circles and glue together.

LID & BASE ASSEMBLY

4. Identify the 'S' LID shape by locating the 'S' cut

in the bottom wall panel. (Each of the plank boxes

include their respective letters cut into bottom wall

panels, for 'N', 'O' and 'W' for identification.)

The BASE panel also includes the 'S' letter

and the double "bite" notches on bottom of panel.

Prepare the BASE panel by folding back on all 

perforation lines for walls and tabs.

5. Bend adjacent bottom and side walls into position

with tab tucked inside, align straight edge to tab perf line

and join seam. Repeat for other three corner seams.

6. Identify the strut strips and add-on strip ends

by locating the single punch circle symbols in 

the end tab or bottom tab for upper strip and

double circle symbols for lower strip.

Bend the end tab back, then overlap the plain end

of the corresponding add-on strip across the opposite

tab, adjust for alignment then glue seam.

Repeat for the second strut strip.

7. Bend bottom tabs outward for both strips.

Bend each strip at the segment perf lines:

bend upper strip into 'W' form, shown as top strip

in this image; and bend lower strip into 'M' form.

(NOTE that this may involve re-bending at seam.)

8. Assemble the strut structure by interlocking

the strips at the corresponding strips as shown here,

with corner bends between slots . . .

. . . so that the assembly has "honeycomb" sort of

compartments. Push the two strips fully together - 

downward - so that it is a height matching the BASE.

9. Apply adhesive to the underside of all tabs,

then adjust length so that the assembly fits fully

within the BASE from end to end, then press down

to attach tabs to backside of main BASE wall.

(NOTE that the strut assembly will be very condensed

to fit into the 'N' BASE and most elongated for 'W'.)

10. Prepare the LID main shape as described in

the middle of Step 4 above.

11. Orient the face overlay panel for 'S' so that

the nose attachment cut outs point in the same 

direction, then . . .

. . . position on the lower portion of LID panel with

panel side and bottom edges aligned with 

perforation lines, and cut outs aligned precisely.

Glue in place.

12. Position the hat crown panel similarly with lower

edge abutted snugly to top edge of face panel,

and attach in place. If possible when using liquid

adhesive, press under a flat heavy weight until dry.

13. Position and attach the icicle accent shapes

at top center of 'S' shape, and at upper edge of

bottom curve as shown. For other letters, refer

to the thumbnail images at the beginning of

this post.

14. Locate the alignment guide cuts at bottom of

the face panel, then position . . .

. . . the letter assembly at guide marks and centered

side to side and attach in place.

Press the LID assembly under a heavy flat object

(a thick book works well as shown here) until dry.

15. Prepare the 3D nose shape by bending back on

angled perforation lines - leave end tabs unbent for now.

16. Form the shape into a cone to overlap straight

end edge over opposite tab shape to perf line

and glue seam.

NOTE that it may be helpful to complete the seam

by inserting a rod-like tool such as the handle tip

of this spatula into the form and behind the seam

to provide a press-against surface.

17. To attach the nose in place, insert the bottom tab

into the slot opening of LID/face panel, then . . .

. . . tip the upper tabs back and insert into the angled

opening until panel edges are aligned with nose

tab perforations.

On backside, apply glue to underside of tabs and

bend back as shown to attach to backside of wall.

It may be helpful to place the LID assembly face up

on work surface and apply fingertip pressure through

all layers where the tabs are located - ensure that

the tabs remain in bent-back configuration.

18. Position and attach the eyes above the nose.

19. Complete the LID assembly by bending side walls

back into position to complete seams as described

for BASE in Step 5 above.

20. To complete the plank, fit the BASE into the LID

backside - NOTE that this is a snug fit - and push

fully together.

Add glue between the side walls near LID rim edge

all around, then press sides inward to attach

all in place.

21. Position and attach the hat rim strip stack

centered side to side and with lower edge

aligned with crown panel lower edge.

Position and attach the snowflake accent

to crown (for 'S' and 'O').

22. When all four plank boxes are completed,

determine how you want to display them.

They can remain separate for more compact

storage between snowy seasons, overlapped

in a staggered configuration and glued, or placed

side by side with hat brim strips sort of

interlocked, then held in place with sticky dots.