Tag Easter Corrugated Egg Decorated

Multiple folds create a vertical corrugated surface 
for the egg in this Easter arrangement, attached by tiny 

positioning tabs and end crescents on the whole egg “front”. 

Other whole egg shapes are layered and attached behind 

the pleated front assembly for thickness and strength.

 Egg is decorated with small heart and cross band. 

Base tag and accent front hold other elements:

 “E A S T E R” print & cut tiles, love welded word, 

dimensional rolled flower, long & short leafy sprigs. 

Completed tag can be attached to 

a hostess gift bouquet (or other gifts), 

or simply as a seasonal decoration. 

Tag measures approx. 3.28” wide x 6.25” tall 

when assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A tag base front panel accent   B tag base

C pleated (corrugated) egg shape

D base for egg shape with slots

E base egg build up shape for thickness (4-6)

F cross band   G accent heart  H accent 'love" word cut

I sprigs with leaves and berries accents tall & med.

J "E A S T E R" letter tiles to print & cut

K spiral blossom with circle base

2. Layer and glue together the base egg shapes

for thickened egg, taking care to align all outer edges

as precisely as possible. Press under a flat heavy weight

for several hours or overnight to ensure flatness and

prevent warping or curling.

3. Beginning at the center perforation line for the pleated

egg shape, making a 'mountain' fold at center.

Working toward each side edge, fold remaining perforation

lines in alternating 'valley' then 'mountain' folds.

NOTE that the side-most folds will be 'valley' folds.

Also note that the small tabs at intermediate fold lines

('valley" should be allowed to pop free from the folded edge.)

Once perforation folding is completed, compress

the shape so that all the folds get "stacked", then . . .

. . . apply strong pressure all along the stack to ensure

that all the fold lines are thoroughly creased.

This is help the fanning of pleats to happen in

a consistent pattern.

4. Position the pleated egg shape backside down

onto egg base, apply glue to tabs, then insert

into the slots on corresponding side (right side shown).

On the underside of assembly, bend the tabs outward

and press in place to attach to base egg.

5. When tabs from previous step are secure in place,

lift the outer portion of pleated egg and apply glue

to the edge, and also in a zig zag across

the rest of exposed base panel. Then . . .

. . . reposition the outer portion of pleated egg to

align the final segment flat against the base's surface

and secure in place. At the same time . . .

. . . allow or assist the pleat sequence between tabs

and edge to even out to consistent configuration,

then apply pressure to secure the inward ridges in place.

6. Repeat the process for the opposite side of pleated

egg and tabs, first lifting the center portion and applying

a zigzag of glue from top to bottom.

Insert the tabs into slots and glue in place,

while at the same time assisting/allowing pleats to

adjust to regular, evenly-spaced arrangement

across middle.

7. Repeat step 5 for the left side of pleated egg

and edge.

NOTE that the pleating across the whole egg should

be assisted to be even and regularly-spaced

as can be seen in the following edge-view image.

Also, at edges, while glue is still workable, push/ease

the pleating inward to align as closely as possible

with the base oval edges, then hold in place

until glue dries.

8. Position and attach the pleated egg assembly onto

the front of the layered for thickness egg base,

with outer edges aligned. 

9. Position the cross band accent across egg assembly,

with straight edges placed at perpendicular to pleats,

and adjust up or down until shaped side edges of band

and egg match up, and attach in place.

10. Position the accent heart, centered over egg

at the position where the tiny tab "irregularities"

will be hidden just below the top curved edges

of heart, and glue in place.

11. Position the egg assembly onto the joined

tag base layers, centered, and with margin below

bottom edge that matches the side margin space,

and attach in place.

12. Follow "Print & Cut" procedures to print

and cut out the letter tiles that spell EASTER.

Position above egg and below punch ribbon hole,

and justified toward the right edge of front

tag layer, and attach in place.

Also position the welded word centered

on top of the cross band, overlapping the heart.

13. If desired to add jute string around egg edge,

apply glue at edge, then . . .

. . . wrap string snugly at egg edge, with the beginning

"splice" positioned at center left edge.

Trim string ends so that they abut.

14. To create the spiral blossom accent, follow this LINK

to a previous tutorial for a different project,

referring to steps 15-19. Then return to this post.

15. Arrange the sprigs at the left edge of the egg,

with spiral blossom on top concealing

the overlapping stems.

Embellish as desired. Sample project includes:

fine jute string bow loops cluster at left edge

(under sprigs), purchased and trimmed silk blossom,

berry short sprigs (white), wide slat-end ribbon

threaded through top center hole and tied with

narrow contrast ribbon in knot and bow.

Bunny Side View Medium Cross Stitch Tag

Traditionally shaped gift tag has top panel with ribbon slot 

(accepts .375 wide flat) and reinforcement ring, with pair of accent 

eyelet  punch holes (shapes also included without eyelet holes). 

Cut and glue together two cardstock cross-stitching layers for strength. 

Cross-stitch pattern needle holes are stitched following included 

CHART to create a simpler bunny design with 

(NOTE: only design stitching holes are included). 

Complete the EASY cross-stitch design using 2 ply embroidery floss 

with fine blunt no. 24 tapestry needle with floss colors: 

blue body, dark gray eye, light gray tail, pink nose. 

A stitchery area silhouette cutout buffer layer and solid layer are

also included as optional backside layers for a more finished final project. 

Cross-stitch count: 82. Tag finished size 2.25” wide x 3.5” long.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main tag with stitching holes (2)

B stitching area cutout backside tag layer

C plain backside tag layer

D contrast tag top panels (2)   E slit reinforcements (2)

2. Make sure the stitching hole openings are free

from cutout waste (chads). One way to do this is

to use the end of a paperclip to push through to backside

then rub/scrape tiny "confetti" pieces away.

(This image is from the larger bunny project.)

3. Position and glue together the two stitching layers,

taking care that all cut edges align as precisely

as possible, including stitching holes, eyelet holes,

slot and tag edges.

Press the glued-up tags under a flat heavy weight

such as this thick book or equivalent wood plank,

flat weights, etc. and allow to dry thoroughly

(for several hours or over night).

4. Position and attach the reinforcement accent shapes

onto the tag top accents, aligning the slot cut outs

of each as precisely as possible.

(This image is from the larger bunny tag.)

5. Prepare to begin stitching by assembling needles

and floss. This is the recommended needle type

and size: tapestry no. 24.

DMC floss was used for the model; select colors

of choice to coordinate with your paper choices.

Model colors: body 807 ; tail 3024; nose 3712, eye 413.

6. Cut a 26-28" length of 6-ply floss, then separate

a single strand.

Print out the stitching CHART or have ready access on screen.

Locate the first stitch on the bunny's bottom row - 

this is where the stitching will begin.

Then isolate the upper left stitching hole that will produce the first 'X'.

This is the hole where the needle will pass from backside

to frontside as stitching begins.

7. Cut a 26-28" length of 6-ply floss, then separate

a single strand.

Loop the strand in half to bring the cut ends together.

8. Thread the loop end through the eye of 

the tapestry needle, then pull the double strand through 

to leave the cut ends as the 4-5 inch 'tail', 

with the loop as the 'end' of the stitching length.

9. FIRST RULE OF CROSS-STITCHING:

create ALL stitches in same order direction.

That is, the "legs" of the 'X' need to be stitched

in the same manner throughout. For these instructions,

this will be: FIRST the 'right' slant

and SECOND the 'left' slant.

NOTE that the order presented in the above illustration

is optimum and may change slightly as stitching progresses

in order NOT to 'unstitch' previous stitches.

10. Insert the needle back-to-front in the hole identified in Step 9,

pull the floss through for just 5-6 inches, then . . . 

. . . immediately insert the needle front-to-back into

the bottom right hole of the first 'X', and pull the needle

through to the backside, then . . . 

. . . pass the needle through the end loop . . .

. . . and pull the floss through the remainder of

the length, allowing the loop to slide into place

against the tag's backside and anchor the floss.

(This is how to begin each NEW length of floss,

and is referred to as "tying on".)

11. Regular stitching can now proceed.

Insert needle up in the next X stitch's top-left hole

(#3 in the illustration in Step 9), pull floss through

completely - taut but NOT tight.

12. Complete the second X right slant stitch by inserting

needle down through hole #4, then up through

hole #5 and so forth, completing ALL the 

 right slant stitches ACROSS the first row.

Complete all the left slant stitches for bottom row.

13. Move UP to the next row, work across the right slant stitches.

Refer to the CHART to make sure the SPACES are skipped

appropriately.

14. Continue to work upward to complete all the BODY

colored cross stitches. "Tie off" when stitching is complete,

or when floss length is used up.

Be sure to leave tail, eye and nose areas free 

from stitching until later.

15. NOSE DETAIL:

An extra stitch hole has been included in the center of

the 'X' for the NOSE. When beginning the row for body stitches

that aligns with the nose stitch, complete only the half right slant

body stitch. Then complete the remainder of 

whole right & left body slant stitches for the row.

For NOSE stitch, complete the half right slant nose stitch,

then the whole left slant nose stitch, on top of the body stitch

that already occupies the body holes.

(Step 18 will describe additional straight stitches

that can be added for better definition.)

16. Tying off: with the needle on the backside of the work,

slide the needle under a few stitches of an adjacent row,

pull floss through completely, then clip even with tag surface.

NOTE: this is the same tying off procedure for 

any time stitching color is changed, 

or a new length of floss is required.

17. Add the eye cross stitch - for more definition,

stitch the right slant leg twice, then stitch

the left slant stitch twice, they tie off.

18. Complete the nose half and whole slant stitches

as described in Step 15 Nose Detail. Then . . .

. . . add a vertical stitch along the left side of the nose's

'X' stitch, and a horizontal stitch along the top.

Here is the finished tag cross stitching.

19. To make the tag's backside look nice, and buffer

the thickness of the stitching to avoid rippling at edges

where the layers need to come together when joining,

use the stitching shape which is glued to the backside of stitched

assembly, with outer cut edges, punch holes and slot edges

matched precisely.

20. Position and attach the plain tag with openings

and side edges matched up precisely.

(Consider pressing under a flat heavy weight until dry.)

21. Position and attach the top accent assemblies,

one on front and optionally one on back.

Here is the completed tag, with eyelets,

ribbon threaded through slot,

tied with twine.