Vampire Boy Canister Wrap Assembly Guide

So cute, why wouldn't you invite him home for dinner?

The latest in the canister wrap series,

this vampire boy is upside down

(typical for a bat, after all)

with his "lid" on the bottom.

Create the modified octagon canister from card stock

(or use a stripped and emptied Crystal Light container)

to wrap, adorn and embellish.

Use as a table or shelf decoration,

or fill as a gift box.

Cut file now available for purchase and download

through SnapDragon Snippets at the Silhouette America

online store, and more.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A canister body
B canister body opening rings and top lid
C canister base (pants portion)
D canister base flange inserts (8 total)
E canister base bottom lid
F pants wrap for canister base
G shirt front with sash
H head/face shape
I dimensional nose
J eye depth rings
K layered eyes (black & white layers)
L fangs
M mouth liner for contrast that shows thru
N bow tie and front knot shape
O upper collars (extra black shape eliminated)
P hand and thumb shapes
Q bat body, head and head liner for eyes contrast
R hair shape (NOTE this was modified for final cut file)
S cape shapes left and right

2. See the canister assembly steps by following this link for the Scarecrow canister wrap, steps 2-6 or 7, then return to view the rest of the Vampire Boy assembly.

3. Complete the Vampire canister base (pants) in a similar fashion to the canister body, except the top rim has simple tabs that fold back and are glued in place on the inside, and bottom lid tabs are simply folded into the center to accept the bottom lid.

Fold top rim (shown here at the bottom of image) tabs in and glue in place.

4. Position and glue the bottom lid over tabs.

It may be helpful to attach the longer front and back tabs to lid first, then adjust the remaining edges between before attaching.

5. Prepare the base flanges by folding the top tabs inward and gluing flat.

NOTE the punched symbols and letter 'S' on the three different flange shapes. These indicate where the tabs are inserted in the next step.

Star = wider front and back sections.
S = sides
o = angled sides









6. Apply adhesive to the lower portion of the flanges (the portion that will align with the base sides below the rim level). Insert the appropriate flange behind the base edge, center within the section side to side, then apply pressure until fully attached.

The portion of the flanges that extend beyond the rim will eventually insert into the canister body to help hold the base in place.

7. Fold the pants decor wrap slightly inward on all perforations. Apply adhesive, align over base front perforations, top & bottom edges even, and glue in place.

8. Complete pre-assembly of the shirt front and sash with decorative brad (or stud, jewel, etc.)

NOTE: these shapes were slightly modified in the finished cut file, so that the sash lines up with the bottom  and left side shirt front edges when the stud punch holes line up. You can see this alignment in the image next to Step 18.

9. Pre-assemble the face shape in the next few steps.

Position and attach the over-ears shapes.

Slide fangs shape, face up, between mouth edges, align curved edges of fang and upper mouth, center, and attach.

10. Position and attach the mouth contrast color liner behind the lower portion of the head. Take care that lower edges are aligned so that the nose slots remain fully exposed.

11. Fold the nose shape at center, and fold side tabs outward.

Insert tabs into face slots, push fully in. On backside, glue tabs in place, folded toward ears.

12. To give this drac jr. his "hollow-eyed" look, add dimension to the eye sockets by gluing two depth rings behind the head with eye and ring inner edges lined up exactly.

13. Prepare the eye by layering the white/punch top layer over the contrast whole black layer.

14. Position each eye shape behind the face, with outer edges aligned with depth ring outer edges. Take care to orient the eyeballs the way you want them to look from the front during the attachment process.

NOTE that I gave his complexion some "alive" color, by pinky-tip rubbing powder blush in the cheek areas until there was enough for my "taste". It is easiest to do this before it is attached to the canister in step 15.


15. Bend the head upper edge perforations back slightly. Center the head over the canister body front, with top edges of each aligned, then attach head to canister and shirt front where the surfaces touch.

16. Add some curl to the collar tips of both the upper (added-on) collar shape and the cape collar tips.

17. Glue the left & right upper collars to their respective cape shapes, so that a margin of the cape collar edge shows below the upper collar, as shown here.

18. To attach each side cape to the canister body, apply adhesive to the center front edges only (most of the cape will extend away from the canister), then tuck the collar up under the chin/cheeks so that approx. 1/4" or so of cape bottom tip extends below canister edge.

(NOTE that the right cape shown on left of this image originally included a shaped edge to accommodate the hand, but this has been changed in the final cut file so that left and right cape shapes are the same.)

19. Assemble the bow tie by adding some curl to the bow portion middles, folding side ends in to center and attaching, then wrapping the self-knot over and gluing in place. Attach the front knot over the top.

20. Assemble the bat by attaching head contrast eyes liner to back of head shape, then attaching head to body.

21. Assemble hand with thumb on top.

22. Attach bow tie (use dimensional foam square or equivalent recommended).  Attach hand and bat.





23. Assemble the hair shape by folding all perforations inward. Fold hair lid shape down and attach to corresponding tabs.

24. Slide the hair lid over the top of the canister, taking care to allow sideburns to slide in front of ears. Push down into place.

25. Attach the back tab, and also apply glue to side hair extensions where they will touch the canister body to secure the hair in place.

26. (not shown) Slide the base/pants flanges inside of the bottom open end of canister body and push in to complete the project.

Now look who's ready 
for a little nocturnal activity!

Halloween Witch Canister Wrap Assembly Guide

Add this little spook to your Halloween decor.

Part of a holiday series, this Halloween witch figure

is built on a modified hexagon card stock canister

that comes as part of the cut file

(or use an empty and stripped Crystal Light plastic canister).

Dimensional miniature hat has a built-in flange that fits

into the top of the canister to hold it in place.

Measures just short of 12" tall.

Cut file available now from SnapDragon Snippets

through Silhouette America's online store,

and soon through SnapDragon Snippets.com

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes. (Clockwise from left) canister opening rim rings and bottom with canister body and overlay; hat crown with band and buckle, hat brim with rim ring and bottom base; hat flange (to help hat stay in place), hair, face with details, nose and nostril shapes; bodice with lacing, cape sides, stars & strap clasp; broom straw, handle and decor shapes.

2. Build the canister. Illustration and explanation for this can be found here. Follow steps 2-6 of the Scarecrow project that has an identical canister.


3. Prepare the front wrap decor shape by bending slightly on the vertical perforation lines. Apply glue to the entire shape backside. Position over the front of the canister body with perf lines aligned at ridge perf lines, with top and bottom edges lined up at canister edges.

NOTE: if your canister body card stock is cut from the pattern you want to show as the witch's "dress", you do not need to use the wrap decor shape.

4. Place the front placket shape (with lacing detail shape positioned already over punch holes) over the canister front, top edge aligned at canister top. Glue in place., folding edges back slightly to attach to and follow the canister edges.

NOTE: a contrast "under placket" shape is included in the cut file, in case you want the punch holes to show through as contrast, instead of the wrap shape as is the case with this model.

5. Prepare the nose shapes by positioning and gluing in place the appropriate left or right nostril shape at the lower inner edge of the main nose shape for both the left and right shapes.

6. Bend the back tabs outward, layer the left and right nose shapes together and glue.


(That hand model really should wash her hands once in a while!)

7. Insert the nose tabs into the center face slot from the front side. Slide in until tab perf lines align at face level.

8. On the face backside, fold the tabs outward and glue in place flat.

9. Complete the face pre-assembly by positioning in place: eyes and contrast liner circles, smile and cheek circles, hair layers and wart circles (there is one on the nose that can't be seen from this angle).

10. Position head assembly, centered, on canister front with canister and head top edges lined up. Glue in place where the two surfaces touch.

11. Position and attach the left and right cape shapes. NOTE that the upper "collar" areas slide under the face slightly, the mid-level curves fall to the sides of the lacing shape, and the bottom straight edges are even at the canister edge. Apply glue to the surface that can attach to the canister (much of these shapes remain flat and un-glued), and attach.

Also attach the "clasp" strap below the chin. Attach the star "buttons" over the strap ends. (See image with step 12 for detail.)

12. Assemble the broom (straw front and back layers glued together at the base common shape area, with handle and decor shapes over the top of that common area). Position the broom with straight slant bottom edge lined up at canister bottom edge. When best positioning determined, glue in place where the surfaces meet.

HAT ASSEMBLY

13. Prepare the crown wedge shape by folding inward slightly at each of the six vertical perforation lines. Also fold the bottom edge tabs outward.

14. Form the crown into a cone shape, bringing the vertical straight end edge to overlap the opposite tab. Apply glue, then line up the edge at tab perf line, adjust for accuracy, then hold until seam is secure.

It may be helpful to assist the narrow point area portion of the seam to attach properly and securely to insert a press-against tool, such as a wooden skewer or knitting needle.

15. Slide the brim "ring", face up, over the crown point. . Apply adhesive to the crown bottom edge tabs on the face side. Slide ring down into position . . .

. . . then place the assembly on a flat surface and press against each of the six edges to join the brim to the crown tabs thoroughly.

16. Prepare the hat flange shape by folding each of the 12 "backside" tabs into place. Apply adhesive to all except the end backside tab that is opposite the end attachment tab, and glue flat. Apply pressure to each until they are secure before proceeding. 

17. Form the flange into a ring, bringing the end attachment tab around to insert under the opposite straight edge. Apply glue to the tab, and also to the end backside tab that remained unglued in step 

18. Adjust the joint for accuracy (flange edge at opposite tab perf line), then glue securely.

19. Prepare to attach the flange ring to the lower brim circle shape by orienting the flange segment lengths to the corresponding slot lengths. The longest segments are front and back. 

Insert the tabs fully into the slots, front to back. This may take care to insert first tabs slightly, then working around the ring until all are inserted.

20. On the brim backside (yes, this lovely viotet is the backside of my witch black hat!), fold the flange tabs outward and glue each in place, holding and applying pressure until each is secure in place.

21. As a "dry fit" before final assembly, check out how the flange/brim assembly has a definite front and back, so those edges of the upper assembly brim will need to be parallel to the corresponding front and back straight edges of the crown. Once this is understood, apply adhesive to the underside of the hex ring brim shape, then align appropriately with the flange/brim shape.

Place assembly on a flat surface (as in second image of step 15) and apply even smoothing pressure until layers are completely attached. 

22. Apply adhesive to the underside of the brim rim ring, then place it over the crown point, position over the brim's top face surface, adjust, and glue in place.

23. Form the hat band into a ring by bending slightly on all the single perforations. Apply a dot of glue to the face side of the end tab, then overlap opposite end to align at tab perf, adjust and attach.

24. Apply glue to the band backside, then carefully insert it over the crown point and move it downward until it is tightened into place at the "fit" level, approx. 5/8" above brim.

Attach buckle, centered over hat front panel, and also over hat band.

Position completed hat over the canister upper opening, fitting flange neatly behind rim.

Here is a front view of the completed project.

And a view from the side, including hat off.

Watch for the other character canister wraps in this series.

At this date, the collection includes: leprechaun, bunny, Uncle Sam, scarecrow.