Aviator Goggles Mask

Created from cardstock, this replica of vintage flyer goggles

may be the perfect addition to a flyer's theme party

add a touch of authenticity to an airplane vignette,

or just make these to wear for the fun of it.

Sized in the file original for adults,

scale it smaller (recommended to no smaller than 70%)

for children. 

Embellished with eyelets, brads, and special 'D' ring hanger

(or use the similar paper shape included in the file)

for added interest,

with clear acetate/mylar "lenses" if desired.

CONSTRUCTION:

1. Identify and cut the shapes: 

(top to bottom) side straps with tab reinforcement shapes, paper D ring brackets, main frame shape, frame end decor shapes, lens rim shapes, frame rings with clear acrylic lens shapes (invisible in this image because of the clear material)

2. Add some curl to the lenses body shape ends by applying pressure and drawing the paper card stock between finger and thumb.

3. Add some curl to the center "nose" ridge area to simulate real goggles or glasses.

4. Prepare the lens rim shape by folding the center rim edge back and gluing securely in place.

5. Prepare the outer edge of the lens rim shape by folding mini tabs outward as valley fold, second perforation line inward as mountain fold - do this for each of the 13 tab sections.

6. Identify the top tab of each shape by locating the tiny arrow cutout in the tab, as indicated by my pointing finger.

7. Locate and identify the top of each lens ring (right and left, that is) by retaining the waste shape that has the arrow symbol cut out. Keep trace of the tops by laying these shapes aside as they are cut in a specific identifiable way, or make a tiny mark on the backside of the shapes.

8. Fit the lens ring over the folded rim. Work the rim "bump" extension fully upward until each tab perforation rests snugly at the inner corresponding edge of the ring.

9. Apply glue to the tab upper surface, then press each section into place, pushing the tabs away from center for a snug final adhesion.

This is how the rim/ring assembly should look.

10. Prepare the clear lens shapes. For our model, heavy acetate is being used. My Silhouette cutting system does not cut completely through, but does give me a score line that I can cut with my craft scissors.









11. Position the corresponding shape behind the lens rim and attach in place. Our recommended adhesive for acetate sheet shapes is Kool Tak or Magic Tape.

12. Apply glue to the backside of rim lens ring ...















... then position over the front of the main goggle shape, line up the bracket end punch hole, center other edges so that an even margin is achieves between outer edges of frame and ring.

13. Position and attach the tab accent shapes at each end. NOTE that the shorter arm of this shape is positioned on top. 

14. If desired, add decorative eyelet through ring punch hole.

15. Prepare D rings by folding in half and gluing inner surfaces (for sturdiness).

16. Position at the tab end, then attach with a decorative eyelet.

NOTE: these can be glued in place, but will provide less movement of the back strap, which may prove undesirable for customizing fit.

For our model, I used a black decorative D ring purchased in the findings section of my favorate scrap book store. These may also be available (though perhaps not in black) in the picture hanging section of the larger home improvement centers.

My metal D ring was attached in place with a black eyelet.







17. Add some curl to the side straps.

18.  Position and glue in place the reinforcement tabs on each end, face side of both straps, matching the punch hole and edges. 

19. Slip the tab end through the D ring, then fold/loop back to line up punch hole end with strap hole. Glue end in place, then attach with a decorative eyelet, if desired (recommended).


20. Use cover circles to glue in place over each back (scratchy) side of eyelets.

21. Overlap strap ends at back, line up appropriate sizing holes, and attach a couple of brads to secure.

Here are the finished goggles.

Airplane & Cloud Mobile Project

Sturdy paper toy planes and slice form clouds

combine with a whimsical "mobile" stand

for this project for a nursery, party centerpiece, 

or child's bedroom decoration.

CONSTRUCTION:

1. First thing to do is plan your mobile. Ours features four clouds and four planes.

2. For each slice-form cloud, you will need to cut one each of the three shapes. Note that each shape is different as defined by the center slot. 

TOP has slot going 2/3rds up from bottom

MIDDLE has shorter slots at top and bottom

BOTTOM has slot going 2/3rds down

If your paper is NOT two sided, cut double the shapes, one for each of the three required as front and back,

3. Cut front and back edge outline (or echo) shapes for the three cloud body shapes, for six total echo shapes.

For added interest and visual texture, I distressed the edges of my layered/attached shapes using the Tim Holtz tools and ink.

4. Layer and attach matched shapes to make the clouds have the "pretty" face on both front and back.

5. Slide the slide forms together at the center slots. 

Here I have started by sliding the middle form (at bottom in this photo), up at the center of the bottom slice,

Add the decorative stars as desired to the cloud faces all around.

6.  For each plane, you will need to cut one each of five shapes: center body (includes the hang holes and does NOT have its own echo shape), upper right side body, upper left side body, lower right side body, lower left side body, plus echo shapes for each of last four listed.

7. Attach the echo shape to each matching body shape (except no echo for center body).

8. When echo shapes adhesives are dried and fully "cured", use a straight edge (mine is an acryllic quilting ruler) laid along the center perforation line of each and press half back to a right angle.

Since this creasing step often makes some of the edges pop, you may need to re-apply glue and press to ensure that all seams are secure and neatly glued.

7. Do a "dry fitting" to make sure you know which pieces join to form the plane.

At center, you see the center body with hang holes, no echo shape, no creases.

At upper right are the two upper body halves with the upper matche portions touching.

At lower center are the two lower body halves with the lower matched portions touching.

In the finished plane, the surfaces that are shown here touching will ACTUALLY be joined to the corresponding faces of the center body shape.

8. Cut the hanging twine or string sections to a generous length. I would suggest 2 to 2.5 feet for each plane/cloud. Or otherwise to your own project's specifications.

9. Thread the twine through the center body shape's hang holes, then use small pieces of tape to hold the "between" length in place against one of the body's side faces until it is glued in place as the side bodies are attached.

10. Attach each upper body half in turn to it's corresponding face of center body, taking care to align all matching edges, and that glue is secure throughout, including edges especially. (But .)before all is dry and secure, fit brad first, see Step 12

11. Attach each lower body half in turn in a similar manner.

12. "Dry fit" the propeller brad by pushing it in between layers at center intersection. Then remove

13. Prepare (optional) propeller nose circle by pushing mini tabs to back. Join circle by aligning the horizontal pair of tabs to upper edge of side horizontal wings, centering the circle at the intersection. Also attach the center tab, if possible.

14. Thread the propeller shape onto the brad then insert through the nose circle and between layers as it was dry fit in Step 12. If desired, add glue to the straight prongs before inserting.

Don't press the brad to snugly in, if you want the propeller to spin.

15. If you are hanging the clouds above the planes as we did in our sample project, finish the attachment as shown here. The already-attached twine was tied in a double knot about 7" above the plane (measured from table top surface as the plane rested). Each separate end was then threaded through opposite entrances of the bottom cloud hang hole, passed against the center on opposite sides of the cloud, then passed back again at the top. There, the ends were tied again, eventually to be attached to the mobile structure.

Here is how the assembly looks at this point.


















STANDING MOBILE STRUCTURE

Many configurations are possible for your mobile. You may want it to hang and spin in the conventional way. Design and build your own mobile works, or consider searching for the "skeleton" of a re-purposed mobile at your local thrift or Good Will store.

A. Here are the basic wood parts that went in to our stand. Narrow dowel arms insert into side face holes on the axle block. Larger diameter dowel inserts into bottom hole of axle block. Candle cup (center bottom) fits over the center dowel and is attached to the routed circle base. Round ball finial fits with pin peg to top of axle block. Drilled round balls fit onto arm ends. Second pin peg assists with attachment of the axle block assembly to the top of the center dowel.

Not shown are four small wooden beads that help the twine attach securely to the arm dowels.

B. Assemble the center structure by gluing center pole inside candy cup, then centering and attaching to the base circle.

C. Insert and glue each arm dowel into it's pre-drilled slot.

D. Insert a joint pin peg into pre-drilled hole at center top and glue in place. Attach top ball finial and glue securely.

E. Attach and glue in place the drilled ball (these come pre-drilled when purchased) at each arm end.

F. Paint and finish the stand components as you desire. We used acrylic brown paint for the axle block and base, blue paint for the balls, clear varnish for the rest of the unpainted wood. We also applied a spray top coat as a final finish.

G. Tiny holes were drilled top-to-bottom of each arm approx. 1/2" in from ball  through which the twine ends were threaded (using a darning needle), then ends were inserted through the tiny unpainted wood ball beads, glued and knot-tied, taking care to achieve approximately the same length of hang.


Here is our finished mobile.

Airplane Box Card Assembly Tutorial

Feel the wind beneath you

as you create this card in a box with propped up wings,

spinning propeller, pilot's compartment with seat and wheel,

suitcase in the back seat, and clouds behind the tail fin.

The card is basically a bottomless box that folds flat for sending,

but then opens and has engine flat fold into place

to become a miniature airplane.

NOTE: The finished model pictured above is a remake from
the model used in this tutorial construction.

CONSTRUCTION:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A left body panel

B right body panel

C bridge strips (3)

D front panel nose cone with circles, prop

E "engine" panel overlay with contrast liner

F tail shape (with overlays above)

G left wing overlay assembly

H right wing overlay assembly

I left body overlay with wheel & strut

J right body overlay with wheel & strut

K windshield assembly with vellum pane

L steering column assembly

M cockpit seat layers

N suitcase assembly

O clouds assemblies (3)

P wheel "washers" and reinforcements

2. Fold the box body shapes at vertical perforations. Attach the wheel reinforcement circles on outside of each piece to align with the wheel hole.

3. Join body halves by overlapping back straight edge with side tab perforation and glue in place.

4. Fold the plane body into a tube to align the remaining body straight side edge and tab perforation line. Join edge at perf line.

5. Fold the nose chassis front "flap" back over the box cavity. Join the nose "circle" front shape to the box, and the chassis engine cover (has grill cut outs) to the upper flap.
















6. Fold each of the three bridge strips as shown, folding end tabs back.















7. With the engine chassis folded back, position and glue the front bridge strip to the inner side box edges, taking care that the strip lines up exactly at the inset edge, as shown.

8. After bridge has been positioned, but before the glue has set completely, fold the box assembly into its flat position and apply pressure at the positions where the bridge tabs are joined. This will allow the tabs to adjust slightly, if needed, and set the creases as necessary.

9.  Position and attach the second bridge strip in similar manner, placing it approximately at mid-wing position.

Once positioned and glue, complete the folding and pressing operation noted above in Step 8.

10. Position and attach the final bridge, placing it approximately in the middle of the remaining space between the middle bridge and the back of the box compartment.

Complete the folding flat and pressing operation again.

11. Prepare the left and right body pieces by folding the wing support "triangle" outward as shown. (This image is using a kraft card stock shape to make it easier to see. Also fold the finger tab half circle outward.







12. Position and glue in place the support reinforcement "triangle" shape on the back of the body piece, to align exactly with cut edges and perforation. Take care that the finger tab half circle DOES NOT get glued down.








13.  Attach the tail and star decoration shapes to each body piece.


14. Position and glue in place each body piece on the corresponding side of the box, taking care to align straight top edges, front straight nose edge at front perforation, back tail tip at back perforation.







14. Position each wheel strut "triangle" shape under the wing support area, with punch holes aligned. Glue in place.















15. Layer and attach 2-3 wheel "washer" circles so that they act as one piece. This shape placed on the brad behind the wheel and between wheel and plane body will help the wheels spin better.

16. Layer wheel hubcap circle over wheel circle with punch holes aligned, and glue the shapes together. 

Thread regular size brad through wheel and washer assembly, then insert through body punch hole and bend prongs back.

17. Prepare the three cloud shapes, if desired, layering and attaching the outline card stock "frame" with the velum cloud shape. Position and attach these to the back upward extension of the card.

NOTE: using a dry form of adhesive such as roll-on sheer dots is a good choice that will not show through the opaque vellum.

If you are not using vellum, use the cloud shapes cut from card stock alone, or with the outline attached to the cloud shape.

18. Prepare and attach the tail piece onto the upward extension of the card. Note that there is a partial perf guideline (easily seen from the shape's backside) that is lined up where the side extensions project from the back, to help with the placement.

19. Position each wing decor shape over the corresponding wing shape.

20. Prepare the windshield unit. Provided shapes include the lower frame with "window" cut out, full lower frame shape, and rim. For the sample, a lower full frame was cut from plain vellum as the "glass" of the windshield, with a light gray "frame" that reinforces the vellum, with front and back rims attached at top edge.

21. Carefully position the windshield, centered on the front bridge, so that the lower extension fits into the indent of the engine chassis shape (see Step 7) AND adjusted downward so that the lower rounded edges of the rim can rest on the chassis side extensions. This will help to sort of "lock in" the engine flap when the card is in its opened position.

22. Prepare the steering column by folding the lower extension reinforcement back and upward below the center "square", then back down again at the perf mark just beyond the underneath "square" shape and at the middle perf mark as shown here.

23. Glue together the surfaces the match up so that the column looks like this.

Also, at the bottom end of this assembly, a short portion will fold back slightly. This is the area that will attach to the "toward-the-back" surface of the front bridge.

24. Attach the front and back grip constrast shapes, and the square and circle on top of the center.

25. Position and attach the lower folded back portion of the column to the front bridge, centered, and adjusted low enough so that grip tops don't extend much above the windshield rim.

26. Assemble the base and overlay shape of the cockpit seat. Fold the lower seat portion forward. Apply adhesive to the lower portion of the back side (approx. 1/4" to 3/8" area only), . . .

. . . then position it on the front of the second bridge.

27. Assemble the suitcase by layering the smaller front rectangle aligned at lower left, with handle, corner and strap details on the smaller rectangle shape as shown.

28. "Dry fit" the suitcase at the front of the third bridge to determine the angle you prefer and observe where the adhesive will be applied between the surfaces of each that will touch. Then glue the suitcase in place.

29. Join 2-3 "washer" shapes (black shape in my left hand here). Assemble the propeller stack by threading front circle (blue here) with propeller and larger contrast circle (orange here) with washer behind onto a regular size brad. Then thread the brad through the hold on the front of the card nose shape.

30. When the card is open, fold the side triangle extensions outward to help support the wings.

Here is the plane box card finished and open.

And just for fun, here is a second version.

Here is the card in its flattened shape.