Hot Air Balloon Centerpiece

This impressively-sized decoration

may serve as the centerpiece for the serving table

at your next bridal or baby shower event,

girls' tea, or birthday party.

Measuring approx. 15 tall,

the base is built as a "box"

(though once thoroughly glued, it is best left together)

with a center square pole that supports the six-panel

balloon with it's rope "cage", flag streamers

and top pennant.

CONSTRUCTION:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A box lid half with top

B box lid second half

C box base

D box insert to support pole (center cutout)

E flange for attaching rope shapes (L)

F post

G post cuff (2)

H basket box decor shapes

I balloon vessel wedges (6)

J lower vessel hollow hexagon

K post top hexagon 

L rope overlays (6)

M top of balloon vessel hexagon

N ropes lower bracket shapes (6)

O flag stringers

P flags (6 each of 3 colors; foldover shapes)

Q balloon finial platform

R balloon top of vessel hex with slots

S top flag pole

T extra flag shape for top finial

2. Prepare the box "lid" shapes by folding inward on all perforation. Join the two box halves by attaching straight side edge over corresponding tab, taking care that the upper and lower perforation lines will line up properly. Then form the box into a "tube" and join the remaining side seam.

3. Prepare the ropes attachment flange by folding sections inward slightly at perforation lines, forming into a ring, and joining the straight side overlapped at the tab. Insert the tabs into the slots on the top of the box "lid".

4. On the backside of the lid, fold the tabs inward and glue in place.

5. Fold the lid into place and glue to the corresponding tabs.

6. On the bottom edge of the box lid, fold the flanges back inside the box and glue in place. This forms the rim.

7. Prepare the box base by folding all perforation lines as inward folds. Form into a tube to align the straight side edge and the tab perforation line, then align and glue in place.

8. Fold the bottom up and attach to the corresponding tabs. It may help to place the box bottom-up on a flat surface, then use a pencil eraser end to push down to help secure the tabs to the lid.

9. Fold the top edge flanges back to the inside of the box and glue in place to form the rim.

10. Prepare insert by folding all perforations as inward folds, then form lower portion into a ring to join side edge and tab as for lid and base. Fold top into place and attach to tabs. Push center tabs upward to open the square post receptacle.

11. Form post by folding all perforations as inward folds. Join side edge overlapped at corresponding side tab.










 As shown here, this can be done by folding the post shape in half, to allow easy pressure application along edge/tab.


12. Fold ends into place, insert tabs into box and glue in place.

13. Insert post "top" end (either end can be top) through insert opening from bottom upward.

14. Apply glue to the bottom of the post, and to the side edges of the insert, then insert into the box base and push to the bottom. Apply pressure to the post top to ensure a good bond to the inside bottom of the base.

This assembly, with insert, helps position the post accurately and keep it perpendicular.

15. Slide the box lid opening over the post top ...

... then continue to slide the lid down until the lid's inside "roof" surface touche the top of the base. A margin of the base will still show at the bottom.

16. Prepare the post-top hexagon for attachment. Note that perforation lines indicate the position of the post top square surface. Also, take care to align the nexagon TO MATCH the attachment flange below.

Apply adhesive - hot glue recommended here for it's secure and quick grab - to the marked area on hexagon, then position carefully on top of post and hold in place until secure.

Here is the hexagon in place, showing that it is oriented to match the flange shape below.

17. Prepare the post cuff shapes by folding top sections outward, lower sections into a tube. Apply glue to all underneath surfaces, then wrap around pole and position snugly so that folded-back scalloped flanges touch (and support) the hexagon.

Repeat for the second cuff at the bottom of the pole, to attach it to pole and box lid surfaces.

18. Apply nail head (or other) decorations to the basket decor shapes to cover guide holes.

19. Position each basket decor shape centered over each box lid side, with bottoms aligned, and glue in place.

20. Prepare vessel wedge shapes by folding tabs inward, cross perforation lines inward.

21. Align the first two sections to be joined, then align corresponding straight edge and tab perforation line, overlap accurately, and glue in place.

NOTE: this image shows the seaming beginning at the bottom. Some find it easier to reach all edges to apply pressure by beginning at the center sections, then working toward ends.

22. Join the third second to the previous assembly in the same fashion. This forms one half of the balloon vessel.

23. Join remaining three halves to complete the second half of the vessel.

24. Join the halves first edges in a similar aligning and seaming process, though the manipulation to get edges and tab lines lined up is the most difficult part of this construction. Use end openings as finger holes to reach and hold edges during gluing process.

25. Join the final seam to connect halves, applying pressure in any way necessary to get edges and tab perf lines to match and line up.


Here you can see fingers of one hand reaching into the top opening while ringers of the other hand press edge and line together, while also pressing against inside fingers.

26. Fold bottom vessel tabs inward to horizontal position, then apply glue to the hollow hexagon underside and position and attach. Use opening to insert fingers to assist.

27. Prepare the ropes sections by shaping the upper portion to have a curl. Here I am using my "scraper" tool to apply pressure to the shape while pulling the shape against the scraper edge. Use enough but not TOO MUCH pressure to avoid damaging the shape.

This shows the desired curl.

28. Fold the eyelet tabs outward at each side of rope shape.

29. Fold the "tab" at the top of each rope shape back slightly. (Tab is the horizontal band at the top of the shape. Tiny perforations at each side edge are folded back.) 

Position bottom edge of tab at perforation/tab edge of vessel top opening and glue tab in place. 

30. At the rope section bottom, position the "bracket" shape lower edge even with the vessel's bottom edge, center and attach.


Repeat for all 6 rope sections.

31. Position and attach the top hexagon shape.

32. Attach each decor "bracket" shape to cover the cut-in bracket shape that is part of the rope shape.

33. Apply glue then push together the two corresponding eyelet tabs at each side of the rope shapes, taking care to align holes and edges.

34. Apply adhesive (hot glue is a good choice here) to the hollow hexagon of upper assembly, then insert lower assembly hexagon between ropes to align with hollow hex edges. Adjust alignment as perfectly as possible, then hold in place until glue is secure.

35. Prepare flag stringer by folding flags in half, sliding stringer in place between center flag, centering flag on stringer, and gluing flag inner surfaces together. Repeat for left and right flag shapes.

Repeat for all six stringers and flag sets.

NOTE: eyelets can be used to attach baker's twine or narrow ribbon bows at each angle, as desired.

36. Bring lower rope sections downward and glue, centered, behind the attachment flange on box top.

37. Prepare the finial platform by folding all perforations slightly as inward folds. Bring straight side edge to overlap corresponding tab perf line and glue in place. Repeat for all six side seams.

38. Align and insert finial tabs into hex base slots.

39. On hex backside, fold tabs outward and glue in place.

40. Fold flag stick in half, bottom end tabs outward. Glue the upper portion edges together, keeping end tabs separate.

41. Insert stick upward from bottom through slots in hexagon and finial, until tabs are flush with hex underside. Glue tabs in place.

42. Fold and wrap flag around stick, and glue in place.

43. Apply glue to hex underside, then position on top of balloon structure and attach in place. Apply pressure as necessary to ensure good attachment.

Here is one more view

of the completed Hot Air Balloon.

Airport Runway Vinyl Panels

Use the download designs

(available for purchase from SnapDragon Snippets

through SVG Attic or Silhouette America's online store)

to cut and assemble 7 different runway panels

to configure a child's airport for hours or imaginative play.

ASSEMBLY

1. Assemble materials for the runway panels. Here you can see the adhesive vinyl rolls (upper right), and masonite panels cut to size (mine are cut 7.5" x 11.5"), and the upholstery vinyl oversize pieces. 

MASONITE is a manufactured wood project often used as drilled peg boards. It is available from large home improvement stores, and they will usually cut it to size for the customer on site, for little or no fee.

My project has 7 panels, but if you want a longer runway, add more of the plain straights, or configure the way you wish.

2. Use an appropriate strong spreadable adhesive to attach upholstery vinyl to the top/face side of each masonite panel.

3. Position and smooth the vinyl in place. Use a roller tool of some kind to help the vinyl adhere in a smooth, even, complete manner.

4. Use straight edge, mat and utility knife to neatly trim away the excess upholstery vinyl at edges so that it is even with masonite edges.

5. Working quickly while glue may still be malleable, press fingers along each edge of the vinyl and masonite to ensure that edges are well attached, and to press a slight bevel into vinyl edge, if possible.

6. Cut the white base shapes from vinyl using your digital cutting tool. Trim if necessary to almost finished size, and weed the edges so you have only the panel remaining.

7. Prepare a positioning to help mark the panel edges. Here you see my template which is a piece of scrap card stock. The top edge has a cutout that matches the side-to-side width of the white base panel from Step 6. 

I have positioned the template at the masonite upper edge, visually centered it, then I am temp marking the width positions to help me place the vinyl base shape. Repeat the process at the bottom of the panel.

8. Release a portion of the vinyl at top edge, place the vinyl as indicated by the guide marks from Step 7.

9. Begin to pull the backing away while using a scraper/squeegee tool to help the vinyl carefully be placed onto the upholstery surface and panel. Take care to make sure the vinyl is being applied exactly straight, and that the air bubbles are being pushed out as it is being applied.

NOTE: it can be repositioned carefully, as needed, but the vinyl does have quite a bit of grab. If there are air bubbles that can't be worked out to the edges to release, scrape to get them as small as possible, then prick with a pin and press the trapped air out.

10. Repeat the process for the black tarmack panel, taking care to center the panel side to side, align top (then bottom presumeably), so that an even margin of white panel is visible at side edges.

(This is the trickiest part of this assembly.)









11. Cut the lights positioning template from a piece of waste 12x12  paper. Position it, centered, over the panel and transfer runway lights positions. NOTE that the hole cut outs are smaller than the finished light sizes, so marks will be covered by the attached vinyl circles.

12. Cut and attach the white base circles over marks ...

... then place a yellow rim ring over each white base circle.

13. Repeat the process to place remaining shapes in their appropriate locations: A) arrow bars at runway entrance; B)  the barrier light bar base red and yellow overlay shape, and C) the runway light yellow base with red lamp shape on top.

Here is the 7 panel layout in one configuration.

You can see how the main straight panel could be

replicated to make a long straight away connected to the upper end here.

HAPPY LANDINGS!