Topiary Pot Construction

This tutorial will separately present

the assembly for the terracotta style pot with post

that transforms the Flower Ball into the blossoming

top of the Topiary Tree.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A rim/outer top panel unit
B side wall panels (6)
C bottom hexagon bases (2, both with pentagon cutouts)
D interior platform hexagon
E interior wall (covers) (6)
F outer wall accent shapes (6)
G outer upper panel accent shapes (6)
H rim accent strips (6)
I post wrap    J upper sleeve   K lower sleeve
NOT SHOWN: post end cap cover (see step 21)

2. Prepare the post and sleeve shapes by

bending back on all panel and tab or flange

perforation lines.

Bend bottom tabs of lower sleeve outward.

3. Prepare the main pole shape to glue seam
by wrapping it around a 7/16" diam. wooden dowel.
Bring the straight side edge to overlap
the long flange tab opposite to line up with
the tab perforation line, and glue in place.
Apply pressure continuously up and down
the seam forcing the edge into accurate
position until the entire seam edge is secure.
4. Push the dowel to align one end with post end,
mark the dowel with post length, remove and
cut dowel to size, then re-insert into post.

5. Prepare the upper sleeve by wrapping it
around the main post shape (still wrapped
around the dowel) to align and complete
the seam in similar manner to the main post.

6. Bend tabs inward, top hex "lid" down
and glue into position.

7. Wrap, align and glue the lower sleeve

side seam in similar manner.

8. Prepare the main rim shape by bending

inner tabs back, outer panels back,

panel lower edge back, bottom tabs forward.

9. Prepare the 6 side panels by bending

the side flange back, bending the bottom rim edge . . . 

. . . back, and the bottom tab forward.

10. Position and attach the side "wall" panels as follows:
apply glue to the underside of the rim inner tab,
then position the backside top edge of side panel
to that rim inner tab.

Here is another view of the side panel attaching
position, this time showing the panel backside
sliding under the rim flange tab, where it is attached.

11. Attach all 6 side panels as shown in step 10.

12. Bend the rim shape upward out of the way.

Bend first two adjacent side panels into position

to bring the left straight edge of right panel

to overlap flange of the left panel to perforation line,

and glue in place.

13. Repeat step 12 until all 6 seams are completed.

14. Position and attach upper accent panels.

15. Bend the rim walls downward into position
to insert the tabs into the side wall slots . . . 

. . . then on the inside of pot, push tabs downward

and attach in place.

16. Bend the second rim wall section into position
with the left straight edge overlapping the adjacent
tab, and glue in place. Insert tabs, and glue in place
on the inside of pot.
Repeat this step until all panels are positioned
and attached.

17. Prepare the pot bottom rim by bending the bottom

flange and tab inward for each side panel.

Apply pressure on the underside of the tab "margin"

then reposition to attach it to the backside

of the side panel.

Pinch along this edge to secure the seam. 

NOTE that the flanges should bend away from

side panels at perpendicular angle, and

ends will overlap at the "miter" position

all around the hex opening.

18. Prepare to attach the bottom hexagon base by
looking at the post pentagon opening.
NOTE that only one of the pentagon edges
is parallel to the hex side - this is the FRONT,
and is marked with a tiny 'F' cut.
While it may not matter, if you eventually choose
a flower side that is "best" to be the front,
this is the side it should face.

Position the bottom sleeve to be inserted

through the pentagon opening, aligning a

non-seam toward front, all other sleeve edges to

also be parallel with opening edges.

Push the sleeve all the way in until the tab perfs
stop at the opening edge, bend outward,
and glue in place.

NOTE that it will help to place the hex base

on a flat surface to apply fingertip pressure

all around.

19. Make sure the pot's bottom tabs are

pointed inward, perpendicular to walls,

then apply glue to the "ledge" created by tabs.

Position base (orient to line up FRONTs if necessary)

and insert into the bottom of the pot . . . 

. . . to sit snugly onto the ledge, with edges

snugly inside the rim.

Apply light pressure to make sure it is seated,

then . . . 

. . . use the bottom of a new pencil eraser to
apply some pressure to tabs from the inside.
Placing fingers under the pot along hex base
edges while pressing with pencil tool is helpful.

20. Position and attach the outer side wall

accent shapes.

Also attach studs over the punch hole

of the rim accent shapes

21. To cover the sleeve construction tabs,

apply glue, position and attach a second hex base,

making sure to rotate the base so that

pentagon opening edges line up exactly (post

will need to fit through opening).

22. Prepare the post end cap by bending back on

the center pentagon outline perforation lines

and forward on the trapezoid end tab perf lines.

23. Insert the post through the base opening . . . 

. . . and push in until the end is even with

the pot bottom (rim) edge.

Hold pot and post carefully in this position . . . 

. . . until they can be secured temporarily together

with masking tape or equivalent.

24. Apply glue to the trapezoid tabs ONLY . . . 

. . . then position the center of the cap over
the corresponding pentagon end of the post.

Push the tabs and "short wall panels" inward

so that the gabs all close completely.

Short wall panels should be perpendicular

to the hex base and snug around the post

(but NOT attached - if you intend to keep the post

in "detachable" condition for easy storage),

and pentagon tabs lined up . . . 

. . . to create

one larger pentagon footprint as shown.

25. To help stabilize the pot, place weighted

stuffing material (pellets) or equivalent divided

between a couple of small, sealed baggies

into the bottom of the pot around the sleeve stem.

26. Prepare the interior platform hexagon

by bending the edge tab flanges upward.

Apply glue to the underside of flanges, then

insert the top of the post through the center

pentagon opening . . . 

. . . and slide downward into position . . .

. . . until it fits snugly against the interior
side wall surfaces all around, and is
parallel to the pot's base.
Apply pressure to all tabs until each
is securely attached. 

NOTE that the post can - if you choose -
remain removable for easy storage.
(Or glue it in place inside bottom sleeve,
and/or flower ball top sleeve.)

27. To complete the topiary flower tree,

complete the flower ball as shown in tutorial HERE.

Insert the top of post into the sleeve

enclosed in the bottom blossom

(be sure to follow the special instructions A thru E

shown at the end of the post).

Here is the completed topiary flower ball project.

Flower Ball Topiary Tree

Kusudama 

is a traditional paper folding tradition

related closely to origami.

For this project, Kusudama converts 
60 prepared squares into blossoms. 
Form the cone petals, then join crest edges 

of 5 petal units into a flower. 

Assemble 12 flowers into a ball. 

Attach tiny scallops with jewels or studs at each flower center. 

Attach hanging loop of desired size. 

Measures approx. 5.75" diameter. 

Convert into a topiary tree by combining 
the flower ball - with a special

post "sleeve" inside the bottom blossom - 
and 3D terra cotta style pot. 
(Construction for the Pot can be found HERE.)

Add weight inside pot for stability, concealed by interior platform 

(add moss or shreds as decorator's touch). 

Pot measures approx.  4.25" x 5" (rim) x 4" tall. 

Topiary measures approx. 13.5" tall.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
cut 5 "square" shapes (modified) of the same 
printed paper (lighter than card stock) to create
one blossom.
For the flower ball, you will need 12 blossoms.
NOTE that the sample uses 4 different 
coordinated prints.
Also cut one center scallop for each blossom.
(For the flower ball, you will need 12 scalloped circles;
for the topiary tree ball, you will need 11 scall circles.)

KUSUDAMA BLOSSOM FOLDING

2. Working with print face side out,

fold the squared points together, align edges

accurately (fold lines are lightly perforated).

NOTE that using a bone folding tool or equivalent

will help to make each crease as sharp

as possible, and is very helpful when there

are multiple layers being folded and creased.

3. Take the right bottom fold and bend
to position it along the vertical middle line,
and crease on the perf line.

4. Repeat step 3 for the left side.
The folds should meet at the vertical center line.

5. "Open" the right angled section from step 3

partially into its cone-like form . . . 

. . . then flatten into a wedge shape
that has the "bottom" fold line from step 2
running down the center between two fold lines
and crease along the perf lines.

6. Bend the bottom "half" of the wedge upward
to bring the bottom crease edge even with
the other crease line.

7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 for the left side.
The resulting square has a stack of narrow
wedges at each side edge as shown.

Use the bone folded to make hard creases
through all the layers of the petal unit.

8. Form the unit into a cone shape by bending

 the fold edges each toward the center front.

This is the shaping that will be done eventually,

but first . . . 

. . . apply a quick-grab adhesive

(such as Fabri-Tack used here)

along the inner edge at fold one one side.

Then bring the edges together, adjust so that
the top corners are even,
and hold in place while applying some pressure
until the edges are secure.

Here is the completed petal cone unit.

9. Prepare 5 petal units for one flower.

10. Prepare the join the petal cones into

flower form by applying quick-grab adhesive

next to the seam edge of first petal, then . . . 

. . . position, adjust and attach the second petal
in place. NOTE that the petal cones are attached
NEAR the spine seam, but just slightly to the side,
allowing the 5 petals to be attached to
neighboring petal cones with a small center channel.

11. Continue to add the third, fourth, and finally

the fifth petal cone units (add adhesive on each

cone that the fifth will touch) . . . 

until the full flower blossom is formed.

Allow adhesive to dry, applying pressure

as necessary to ensure secure joints,

minimizing the center channel, and keeping

top edges even.

12. Prepare the assemble first flower ball HALF,

which will consist of 6 blossoms,

by arranging 5 blossoms in a ring.

As you can see (in the image below, or above) 

the blossoms sit balanced on two bottom

petal points, with two middle petals above, with 

the top petal upward.

The blossoms will be attached to neighbors

by joining the "crests" of the bottom petal pairs,

and the middle pair.

Apply adhesive along the ridge line of the bottom

 and middle cones . . . 

. . . then position the second blossom with
corresponding bottom and middle petals touching.
Adjust then apply pressure to ensure a secure joining.

Applying fingertip pressure to each of the two

joining positions will assist the connection.

13. Repeat the process for the third blossom

to apply adhesive, position, align and attach 

the bottom and middle cone ridge lines of each.

14. Complete the ring with the fifth blossom.

15. Test-fit the sixth blossom that fits into top
area of the ring.
NOTE that the five petal points of this blossom unit
will fit into to the indentations between
the ring blossoms.
VISUALIZE where the cone ridge lines will touch,
apply adhesive to fifth blossom ridge lines,
then re-insert, adjust and apply pressure until secure.

Here is the interesting view of the half ball backside.

16. Repeat steps 14 and 15 to prepare

the bottom half of the ball with 6 blossoms.

17. Test-fit where the blossom petals of each half

will offset so that points fit between opposite

blossoms, apply adhesive, then re-position

and attach the two halves securely.

18. Position and attach one scallop circle over

the center channel of each blossom, then . . .

. . . position and attach a decorative jewel
or stud over the center guide hole.
Position and attach 12 circles and studs.

FOR HANGING BALL:

prepare a ribbon loop (with optional bead

as shown here), and insert the end between

two blossoms (these become the top of ball) . . . 

. . . and securely glue in place.

Here is the completed ball.

FOR TOPIARY FLOWER TREE BALL:

A. Petal unit spines are attached along the facets

of the upper post tube sleeve as is shown here,

with the bottom "blunt" end of cone

aligned with top closed end of sleeve tube.

The inner edge of petal cone lays against

the sleeve tube face

and is attached where those surfaces touch.

(You can refer to the sleeve preparation 

in steps 5 & 6 in Pot tutorial HERE.)

B. Position and attach the second petal cone
in similar manner, tucking the spine edge as snugly
as possible next to the previous petal shape.

C. Continue positioning and attaching
the petal cones until all five are in place.

D. Follow the steps shown in ball instructions
to build the bottom HALF of ball, except
use the blossom with post sleeve as
the "top" blossom that fits into the ring of five.
SHOWN HERE: The blossom with sleeve center
will have a slightly wider girth, so it will be
necessary to push it into position as snugly
as possible, understanding that it will remain . . .

. . . slightly higher than the surrounding blossoms.

E. The topiary project is completed by inserting

the post (with dowel inside) into the sleeve

at the center underside of blossom ball.

Here is the completed topiary flower ball project.

To follow the assembly for the topiary tree

version of this project,

please follow this LINK.