Nordic Star Cross Stitched Tag

Cross stitch embroidery is completed on the doubled 

hole-punched scalloped tag panel, then it is 

sandwiched with optional stitching buffer layer, 

frame accent, frame front and whole back layers in 

a sturdy keepsake gift tag for Christmas or winter giving. 

Add oblong reinforcement ring accents on front and back. 

If desired, hand pen a contrast ink message 

at top of tag, or use the provided plaque shape 

to pen or stamp a name or greeting. 

Measures approx. 2.625” wide x 3.75” assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A cross stitch hole punch layer (2 for stability)

B buffer back layer for stitching panel

C front "contrast" frame panel

D front accent panel

E solid back accent panel

F slot "ring" reinforcements (2)

G sentiment plaque or print & cut panel

2. Prepare the stitching panels by poking out any

cut waste (chad) shapes that remain following cutting

and removal from cut mat. A useful tool for this is

a standard paper clip that is un-bent.

3. Layer and attach together the two stitching panels,

taking extra care - here and throughout - to align

all cut edges as precisely as possible.

Press the glued-up panel unit under a flat heavy object

such as this thick book, or equivalent - or place

a second heavy object on top of the book - to help

the panel stack dry flat, minimizing warping or

curling caused by liquid adhesive. 

4. Assemble the stitching supplies, including choice

of star color 6 ply floss, tapestry needle size 24/26.

5. Study the chart below to understand how multiple

stitches in rows are stitched efficiently across,

completing right slant stitches of the 'X' stitch first,

then at the end of the row, reversing the process

to complete left slant stitches. This is essential

to create a uniform front appearance, with neat back.

6. Cut a 30-36" length of floss from the skein, then

separate one at a time two plies from the length.

7. Line up all four ends of the two plies, forming looped

length . . . 

. . . then smooth along the length away from ends

to refine the loop end. Thread the loop end through

the eye of the needle. (Ends can likewise be threaded

through eye, but double ply loop is sometimes easier.)

Pull loop through to leave a 5-6" tail at cut ends.

8. Working from a printed copy or referring to the design

chart on screen, locate the lower left star point 'X' stitch

(left-handed stitchers may wish to reverse this). 

 NOTE it is easiest to work the design from bottom to top.)

A. Insert the needle from back to front in the top left

position of the 'X' set of four holes . . . 

. . . and pull thread through to front, leaving

a short loop on backside.

B. Insert the needle again into lower right hole

to complete the first right slant . . . 

. . . and pull the thread through within pulling

the loop on backside.

C. Pass needle and thread through the loop . . .

. . . and pull up to tighten loop flat against backside.

(This is the anchor-on process.)

9. If this was a regular row with multiple stitches,

the right slant stitches would be completed across

the row, followed by the left slant stitches returning.

The star point is a single stitch, so the needle is inserted

UP through the hole above the immediately-previous 

down-insertion, and thread pulled through completely.

Complete the left slant stitch by inserting needle tip

into the bottom left hole of the 'X', and pull thread through.

10. Move up to next row, to insert needle through

top left hole of first set of four holes that will hold

the 'X' at beginning. Complete the two right slant

stitches of that row, then . . . 

. . . move back to the left to complete the two

left slant stitches that complete the 'X' stitches.

11. Move up to the next row as for the second row,

and complete the first three right slant stitches,

THEN jump across the space to work the mirror image

"right half" right slant stitches of this third row . . . 

. . . but at the end of row, instead of returning back

with completing left slant stitches, move downward

to complete the second and first rows . . . 

. . . of the bottom right star point, adapting where 

needle is inserted as needed.

After working down, return to left end of

row three to complete the left slant stitches.

12. Move up to complete the fourth rows, adding

the "floating" single stitches as ends . . .

. . . jumping

across (on backside of work) as needed to complete

both halves of stitching according to the chart.

13. As the thread on the needle gets used up,

work the final stitch that is possible while leaving a few

inches to manipulate needle, ending with needle

to the backside.

Slide the needle under several stitch backs . . .

. . . pull needle through fully, then trim the thread

next to the panel surface. Re-thread and continue.

14. Tie on as described earlier, then continue to follow

chart to complete the rows in same manner.

Here is the completed stitching panel.

15. Position and attach the buffer layer onto

backside of stitched panel, aligning outer edges.

NOTE: this layer provides a bit of depth around

the raised stitching.

16. Position and attach the "contrast" (sample has

this panel matched to stitching panel) frame panel

over stitching panel ensemble.

17. Position and attach the contrast front frame

panel with outer edges and slot matched.

18. Position and attach solid back panel

on backside of assembly.

19. Position and attach the reinforcement accents

onto front and back of assembled tag. 

20. Prepare sentiments panel with penned

of stamped words, or follow prescribed procedure

for printing and cutting the "winter wishes" panel.

Position and attach between top of frame and

bottom of reinforcement ring.

21. If desired, decorate with ribbon and tied twine.

Tag Tree Cross Stitch

Layered combo tag features simple triangle tree with 

reinforced cross stitching panel, front window cutout, 

solid back panels which are assembled then mounted 

on a classic rectangle tag. 

Stick tree “stripes” stitching panel can be modified as desired 

(see Card Kit A6 Christmas Trees Cross Stitch 

separate design for one option). 

Measures approx. 2.625” wide (bottom of tree) 

x 4” (tag) when assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A tree stitching shapes with stitching holes (2)

B stitching buffer layer

C tree front frame layer

D tree back solid layer

E tag (2 for front and back)

F header accent shape (2)

G reinforcement oval ring (2)

2. Prepare the stitching shapes by poking through holes

to make sure any "crumbs" detach and can be

brushed away and removed. Easiest tool may be

a bent-open standard paperclip.

3. Layer and attach the stitching shapes, taking care

that all outer cut edges and stitching holes are

as precisely aligned as possible.

Once the stitching shapes are glued together,

place on a flat surface and press flat with a heavy,

flat weight such as a thick book, until thoroughly

dried, several hours or over night.

4. Assemble the supplies and tools for the embroidery

cross stitch, including red and ivory/cream 6-ply floss,

tapestry needle 24/26 size.

5. Cut a 36-40 inch length of floss, then separate

two single plies from the cut length.

6. Place the two plies together, then bend in half

to bring the four cut ends together, taking care

to even out the center loop where folded.

Thread the loops through the eye of the needle, then . . .

. . . pull the loop long, to leave 4-5" of the cut tails

beyond the needle eye. The loop is the long end.

7. Refer to the stitching diagram, either on screen

of from a printed copy, to identify the left end of

the bottom row, where the first set of four "corner"

holes will hold the first cross stitch of that row,

on diagram and on stitching shape.

8. Study the following diagram to learn how the cross stitches

are formed with a row of LEFT SLANT stitches across

the row, followed by the RIGHT SLANT stitches

coming back across the row. Always create the stitches

in the same fashion, to give the work a consistent

appearance. This may require changing the order

or placement of the numbered insertions.

9.  (NOTE the following few images are showing cream floss from

a different, similar project.)

 A) Insert the loaded needle UP from backside through

the top left of the four bottom left set of stitch holes.

B) Pull the the thread through, leaving approx. 5-6 inches

of the loop end still beyond the stitching surface.

C) Create the first RIGHT SLANT stitch by inserting

 the needle down through right bottom hole of the first

four of the first stitch set, then . . . 

. . . on the backside, insert the needle through

the loop and . . . 

. . . pull up tight.

10. Continue to create the RIGHT SLANT stitches

working across the row.

When the stitching reaches the location of

the "trunk" pair of vertical stitches, pause 

the horizontal stitching to move downward

to complete the two trunk cross stitches.

Then continue up to the bottom row and work

the remaining stitches across

11. Complete the "red" alternate row stitching

plus the trunk up the center of the tree.

12. When the current thread load is used up,

or when stitching needs to be ended, move needle

through to the backside, insert needle under 3-4

stitch loops,  push/pull needle through . . .

. . . and pull thread fully through. Trim thread excess

even with backside shape surface.

13. Tie on the contrast (cream) 4 ply needle load

and stitch the alternate rows bottom to top. 

14. Position and attach the buffer cut out shape

on the backside of the stitched panel.

(This shape provides a place for the thread thickness

to lie without distorting the tree edges too much.)

15. Position and attach the stitched assembly on the front

of the offset accent tree shape.

16. Position and attach the whole back shape.

17. Prepare the tag base layers by positioning

and attaching the header accent shapes at the top

of front and back tag. Also position and attach

the slot oval "ring" reinforcement shapes

onto front and back.

18. Place the front and back tag base assembly back-to-back

and glue together.

19. Position and attach the stitched tree assembly

onto the front of the tag.

20. Add one or two lengths of ribbon,

threaded through slot, tied with twine

to finish tag.