Sunday, October 9, 2016

Skeleton Card Box Envelope

Spooky yet sophisticated, this A7 (5x7) card
has a dimensional front that is built up
with rosette and circles layers,
centered atop a "wall paper" overlay of
skulls in oval "windows".
Its thickness requires special consideration
if you wish to enclose it for sending.

That is why this sized-to-fit box envelope
is just the ticket. It can be used for any dimensional
A7 card, closed with disc and twine wrap.
Skull emblem and tag help it coordinate to the card.

1. The A7 card featured in this tutorial will NOT be explained
in detail. Here are the basic steps:
A. Identify and cut the shapes
B. Fold the card base. Position (centered) overlay on base front.
C. Position (centered) and attach skull cutouts 
over the oval "windows".
D. Prepare the "31" front disc by threading perle cotton
or other soft twine on smallest darning needle possible
and thread up from back, down from front, etc.
to complete stitching details; hide tails on backside --
or use non-stitched front.
E. Layer "31" disc with contrast disc, sawtooth disc,
large disc into a unit, using center circle as alignment.
F. Prepare rosette: review steps in similar project
by searching "rosette" in this blog.
G. Layer front medallion assembly onto rosette, then
mount over the hole punch in overlay.
H. Prepare the banner by attaching "Halloween" and
"happy" word cuts; attach to bottom area of card.

1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main box body (2-3 panels joined at side seam)
B circles closure build up: 2 large & 2 small for each
C tag assembly: base, oval, skull, bar
2. Layer the two closure discs by gluing the two
large circles together. Take care that edges line up.
3. Layer the two small closure discs in the same way.
4. Align the small stack under the large disc stack,
and glue together.
This provides a little clearance to wrap twine.
5. Prepare to attach the flap disc by cutting 
a length of twine (or perle cotton as used in model),
gluing it in place at the circle punch, then
gluing the disc assembly over the twine in place
Also position and attach the second disc assembly
on the body.
6. Position and attach the regular size eyelet or stud
to secure each disc in position.
7. Assemble the skull tag by layering
and attaching the bar at top of tag where
edges align, disc over bar where upper
edges align, then center skull in place.
8. Position and attach assembled tag on the
"front" of the box body.
9. Fold the sides around to back, overlap
to guide hash marks (small cuts at upper
and lower edges of panels), and glue in place.
10. Complete box assembly by bending
bottom side tabs inward, bending and tucking
large bottom flap into box behind back panel.
11. To deliver card, insert into the box top,
fold side tabs inward and top flap down.
Wrap the twine in figure 8 to secure.
Here is the completed envelope box.

Jack O Lantern Hidden Gift Card

Grinning Jack has crescent layers front 
with top layer recesses or shapes to allow 
smile and crinkle eyes to fit in. 
Built up layers front and back allow for a hidden gift card 
holder with stem at top to slide inside. 
Measures approx. 5.75" wide x 5.875" tall when closed. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main card back panel   B main card front panel ("F" cut)
C main card build up shapes (5)
D slider back   E slider build up (3)
F stem back build up  G stem front build up
NOT SHOWN: stem accent build up shapes (5)
H stem accent front
I accent front base (show-thru)  
J crescent accent bases
K crescent, eyes and smile accent fronts
2. Assemble the main build up shapes by layering
one by one and attaching together, taking care
to line up all cut edges as precisely as possible
as each is joined into the stack.
NOTE: it will be helpful to press these under
a flat weight during the drying process to
minimize or eliminate curling and warping.
3. Position and attach the backside of the buildup
assembly on the backside of the main card back shape,
taking care to line up the edges that correspond
as precisely as possible (continue this attention
to edge alignment throughout).
4. Position and attach the main card front
over the buildup/back assembly.
5. Position the side accent crescent base shapes
onto the front of the accent base (show thru) shape,
lining up curved outer edges, and attaching in place.
Position and attach the center "crescent" in place
evenly centered between the side crescents.
6. Position and attach the top side crescent shapes
over the previous accent assembly. Then . . .
. . . position the upper front accent in place over
the middle crescent base, position and attach smile
tucked snugly into the corresponding cut edge
of the upper middle crescent, then
position and attach the lower portion.
Doing the assembly in this order will assist
in ease of fit of the smile.
Position and attach the eye accents into
their respective depressions.
8. Position and attach the accent front assembly
onto the main card assembly, with even
offset margin of main card showing all around.
9. Prepare the slider build up by aligning
and attaching the three window shapes
in the same manner as the main card
build up, taking care to line up cut edges.
10. Position and attach the build up over the
backside of the slider base.
12. Position the front and back
stem build up shapes onto the assembly,
aligning the edges that correspond.
13. Position and join the stem accent shapes
into a stack, all edges aligned.
14. Position and attach the stem stack to the
slider assembly, lining up the lower edges
with the bottom edges of the slider stem build up,
and offsetting evenly at other edges.
14. Position and attach the surfaces that touch
of the accent stem onto the stem accent build up.
NOTE: this stacked stem build up will allow
the stem of edges of the slider to
slide into place with clearance for the top of
the jack o'lantern accent build up.
15. Complete final assembly of the hidden gift card
holder by inserting the bottom of the slider into
the channel of the pumpkin assembly . . .
. . . and slide into place with the stem accent
lower edges overlapping above the surface
of the crescent accents.
While the slider is in "open" position,
insert card into slider recess,
then re-close the card.
Here is the completed Jack O'Lantern
with stem and slider in closed position.

Witch Double Diamond Card

Complex folds on the card base 
(sections are joined to create 15x5 rectangle) 
bring the center diamond medallion forward 
as stage for slightly offset base square, 
three layered circles and witch silhouette. 
Accent shapes add color to side panels exposed 
when card is unfolded to act as its own display stand. 
When closed, card measures somewhat larger than 5x5.
Make your card an extra special gift by creating
this sized-to-fit box envelop, with enough depth
to accommodate the folds and built-up layers

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main double diamond card base (2 panels joined)
B side accent rectangles  C mid triangle accents
D front accent square panel
E sawtooth circle  F lace edge circle
G plain circle  H witch silhouette
2. Prepare the main panel (side extension
already attached) by bending and fold creasing
the base on the perforation lines:
4 vertical lines as MOUNTAIN folds
4 diagonal lines as VALLEY folds
3. Attach the accent shapes, offset centered,
in the corresponding panels.
4. Fold the card into its double diamond configuration
by directing the upper and lower diamonds back
and inward as shown.
5. Position the center square over the middle
panel of the card, lining up center guide circle punches.
NOTE that the square accent is slightly larger
than the square panel of the card base.
6. Assembly the circle medallion assembly:
sawtooth circle bottom, lacy circle middle,
plain circle top, using center guide circles
to help with alignment.
NOTE: the sample uses foam squares between
the lacy circle and the sawtooth, and
between the sawtooth and the accent square
in the next stem, for extra dimension.
7. Position and attach the circle medallion assembly
onto the card front, matching center circle punches.
8. Position and attach the witch silhouette over the
medallion assembly (hiding circle punch hole).
Here is the completed card, with the side panels
extending back to provide a self-stand or easel.
If desired, the bottom point of the accent square
can be square cut off, to allow even more stable standing.

Friday, October 7, 2016

BOO Mini Lighted Halloween Display

Imitate popular large metal marquee letters 
with this miniature version. 
Bulbs of 20 light mini set from Darice 
(wreath applications are suggested by mfgr.) 
are pushed through holes and held in place 
by built-up ring "collars" (shown in model as white 
to amplify mini lights; 
can be made to match letter body if preferred). 
Letter edges are built up with slightly deeper "flanges", 
cut individually to make adjustments easier 
due to card stock paper thickness. 
Mini light battery canister is camouflage-encased 
in a sized-to-fit box with lid and cutouts 
with on/off switch accessible. 
Built up foundation shape is included 
to attach letters and battery box. 
Letters measure approx. 6" tall x 1.5" deep. 
Overall display (not including foundation extension 
for battery box) is approx. 10.75" wide. 

The mini lights set that is used for this project
is by Darice: Deco Lights teeny bulbs 20 lights, which
is battery powered (hence the artwork that is
shown as part of the battery housing though the
2 "C" batteries are NOT included).
The product number ID is BT20-1 white wire/clear teeny bulb.
Scan code numbers: 652695539725
One package costs under $5.
I purchased mine from JoAnn Fabrics walk-in store.
They are also available on-line from many locations.
With batteries in place, a metal level is pivoted
to make the connection that sends power
to the string of lights.
When lit, the lights put of virtually NO heat.
Packaging text includes: "Great for
centerpieces. Glue on Wreaths."
However, it is not recommended to leave the
lights on for extended periods of time,
nor to leave them unattended.
Suggested use of this product for this project
on this blog does NOT constitute any responsibility
on the part of Jodi G. Warner or SnapDragon Snippets
for any problems/damage caused as a result
of the light malfunction or combustion.
1. Identify and cut the shapes for the letters
(cut one B, two O):
A main "B" hull shape  B extra side boxing
C interior opening boxing upper & lower
D inner vert support struts (2)
E outer & inner edge flanges (see more below)
  F collar rings (8 per opening x 20 for BOO)
G main "O" hull shape  H vert struts (2)
I interior opening boxing strip
J outer edge flanges  K inner edge flanges

L battery box housing
M base platform build up (4)
Th design of these letters includes separate 
edge flanges which have a fold-down top rim
that extends approx. 1/4" beyond the platform
where the lights and collars extend..
Each flange is attached to a specific "face"
around the outside and also inner openings.
Being separate, they can be trimmed down
if necessary, which may be necessary due to
varying thickness of card stock used.
Our usual "tolerances" for textured card stock
was used in the sizing. I used 110# 
which is slightly thicker, and some trimming
was necessary.
Below are the "B" flange shapes laid out
in their approximate positions around the B
1-6 are for the outer edges. 7 group is for
upper interior opening. 8 group is for
lower interior opening.
Groups 7 & 8 include the same shapes,
but their positioning is horizontal mirrored.
2. Prepare the mini light collars build up,
which help hold the lights in position.
Position and glue together a stack of 8 rings
for each of the 20 lights in the set.
This can go quickly, but TAKE CARE that
the edges line up as precisely as possible.
My choice for the sample project was to make these
white and place them on the outside face of
the letters.
Other good choices: i) make them match housing;
ii) place them on the underside of the housing
so that they don't show.
This is an out-of-focus (apologies) shot 
showing the thickness of the 8 layer built-up collar.
3. Position and attach one collar at each light hole
opening on the "B" main shape. Make sure they
attach firmly. It may be helpful to use a flat
weight during the glue-drying process.
4. Prepare the interior opening boxing shape
by bending forward on all the vertical perforation lines,
and bending top edge tabs back.
REMEMBER that the upper and lower openings
will required their specific boxing, so make sure
that both the shapes from the cut file are cut.
The lower boxing includes an "X" cut in the side tab.
5. Form the interior boxing shape into a ring
to bring the side straight edge to overlap on
the inside of the side tab, adjust and glue in place.
Repeat for the other boxing shape.
6. With the "B" housing laying face down on work surface, 
identify the upper opening boxing assembly,
and note that the narrow panel indicated here . . .
. . . will line up with the narrow lower corner panel
indicated here.
7. Apply glue to the face of upper edge tabs
of interior boxing, then position over the
backside of the opening, taking care to align
the edges of the opening with the tab perforation
lines. Complete initial alignment, then . . .
. . . quickly turn assembly to front to
make adjustments as needed.
Work for the best, most accurate alignment
8. Form the B hull into its "box" shape by bending
the edges into position to complete the seams.
Straight edges should overlap adjacent tabs
to perforation lines.
During this process, prepare the double panel
boxing addition that creates the boxing at B shape's 
right edge indent near center by bending center perf
inward and tabs back.
Position and attach this addition at corresponding
side tabs, and attaching top tabs under the "B" edges.
9. Prepare the "B" vertical support strut strips
by bending end tabs back in opposite directions
as shown.
Position and attach on the inside of "B" assembly
flush next to the interior opening boxing back side,
attaching end tabs to top and bottom
in the same step. NOTE that notches face out.
Shown here is the back strut.
Also position and attach . . .
. . . the back strut in the same manner
10. Prepare each edge flange by bending back and
creasing the top rim perforation. Glue rim tab in place.
11. Identify the narrow flanges for the "B"
interior openings by noting that for each opening
there will be one narrow and one wide.
12. Apply adhesive to the back side of flange
below rim tab, then position over the corresponding
face, bottom edges even, top edge of hull snugly
abutted to the rim tab lower edge.
Begin with the narrow flanges, here the narrow upper . . .
. . . then the lower wider flange . . .
. . . then continue with the remaining flanges,
first testing it in position to note any trimming
for appropriate length that may be necessary,
then applying adhesive and attaching.
13. Repeat the process for the outer edge flanges,
including the "double" indent flange shown here . . .
. . . then adding the remaining flanges all around.
14. The process to assembly the "O" form is similar.
First, prepare the main hull shape by bending
back on ALL perforation lines . . .
. . . positioning and attaching collar "stacks"
at each light opening.
15. Prepare the interior opening boxing strip
by bending forward on all vertical perf lines,
bending back on top tabs.
NOTE that the narrow interior panels for the "O"
are all the same width.
16. Form the strip into a ring to overlap straight
side edge over side tab.
(Tab should be behind strip edge, showing
from the back side of the assembly.)
17. Position and attach the interior boxing
to the underside of the "O" hull in the same
manner as for the "B" (step 7).
18. Bend edges in place to complete the "O"
side seams in same manner as for "B".
19. Prepare, then position and attach the
interior flanges, beginning with the narrowest . . .
. . . then measuring, trimming if necessary,
and adding the other flanges around.
Also position and attach the outer flanges.
20. With all three letters completed,
lay them side by side on work surface,
align bottom edges to be even as they will 
be when the assembly "stands".
Apply "quick grab" adhesive to the faces that will touch 
(such as the hot glue being added here,) 
then carefully attach the letters into one unit.
21. The letters can be used independent of
the base platform, if desired. With the platform,
the battery will be more easily dealt with.
Without the platform, the battery could be "hidden"
behind nearby objects in your display.
* * * 
Prepare the platform by layering and attaching the
multiple cut shapes (sample uses 4 shapes of 110#;
cut and build up your platform with as many layers
as is necessary for sturdy base. Take care that
edges align as precisely as possible.
22. NOTE that the battery box assembly
and battery will be demonstrated in its
"unattached" form first. Once its assembly
is understood, it will be necessary to
to remove the battery housing itself in order
to attach the box to the platform (step 26).
* * *
Prepare the battery box by bending back on
all perforation box lines and tabs except 
the insertion tabs of roof flaps should be left unbent.
23. NOTE that the right back side seam tab
will be left unattached to allow for the battery
wire to slide into place.
Fold the sides of the box upward to bring together
side straight edges to overlap adjacent side tabs,
and complete the other three seams . . .
. . . leaving the back right seam unattached.
24. Place the battery container (with batteries inside)
into the prepared box with the activation switch
toward the top as shown . . .
. . . direct the wires across the front and along
the left side (as viewed from the front) . . .
. . . and out the back opening where the side seam
is unattached. If desired, close the seam with
temporary adhesive such as adhesive roll-on dots, etc.
25. Close the top of the box by bending into
position, inserting the side and back tabs into
corresponding slots.
26. Position and attach box bottom
on the platform extension, 
with the lever opening toward the very back,
and the three punch holes of each aligned.
27. This cut-away will show how the mini lights
are inserted and pushed fully 
into their openings with collar.
Insert the first light beyond the long attachment
wire section into the front "B" bottom hole . . .
(another view of the first light insertion)
. . . then continue to string the lights up and around
the "B", using the notches in the support struts
to help the wires string as required.
Then string the wire over the attached "B" and "O" 
walls to insert in bottom "O" hole, up and around,
then across to the "O", etc.
28. Gather the excess wiring behind the battery
and band with tape if desired.
Tuck into the bottom of the B.
Also tuck the wires into the letter backs
as thoroughly as possible.
NOTE it may be advisable to use small strips
of electrical (black) tape to manage the wire.
Here is the lighted assembled display to this point.
29. Position (centered) the letters on the front of 
the platform panel,  and attach with
quick grab glue (such as hot glue).
Here is the completed display.