Tuesday, September 15, 2020

Halloween Decorated Tag Display

 (This is a place holder for the decorated tag project
that will be completed soon and posted here.)

(Please return soon to view the details of this project.)

Wednesday, September 9, 2020

Ghost Shaped 3D Box Decor

Friendly “spook” box is created as LID and BASE 
with offset-inward angular, multi-facet boxing strips 
that fit snugly together. Curve-edge LID and BASE shapes
 are layered and stacked for strength. 
Front ghost character has many details: overlay center body, 
cutout eyes and smile, mini swag stringer 
holds layered jack o’ lantern and miniature bats. 
Small paper layered button can anchor a fabric swatch bow tie. 
Measures approx. 7.125” tall x 5.75” wide x 1” deep. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A LID main offset base shape (2-3 for layering thickness)
B LID bottom layer (shown reversed) with boxing guides
C boxing straight edges shape
D boxing strips - lower, left/top, right
E BASE main offset base shape (2-3 for layering thickness)
F BASE top layer (shown reversed) with boxing guide marks
G boxing straight edges shape
H boxing strips - lower, right/top, left
I ghost body with face contrast cutout
J ghost body center contour   K face contrast oval
L button circle base (4) and rim ring (2)
M swag stringer with optional knot overlays
N pumpkin assembly (main, overlay, contr. oval, stem)
O bat assembly (2 sets - wings, body, eye contr.)
2. Layer the build-up shapes  for LID and BASE 
and glue together into their individual 'stacks', taking
care that ALL edges align as precisely as possible.
Immediately, while liquid adhesive is being allowed to dry, press
under a heavy flat weight such as this fabric-covered re-purposed
weight machine bar, or similar object (book, wood plank, etc.)
until completely dry, to help avoid warping and curling.
3. Identify the guide mark dash cuts of the inward layer shapes 
(bottom for LID; top for BASE); these will be used later
in the assembly to position the prepared boxing assembly
so that LID and BASE will fit together appropriately. Then . . .
. . . position and attach the LID onto backside of
LID stack, aligning edges as before, and pressing flat.
Also position and attach the BASE shape with guide marks
onto the backside of BASE stack, aligning, attaching and pressing.
4. While LID and BASE stacks are drying, position
the body front center shape over the main body shape,
center so that cutouts for smile dimples will still show
the contrast through cut outs, with bottom straight edges
of both shapes aligned, and glue touching surfaces together.

5. Reverse the assembly to position and attach
the contrast oval behind the face cutouts.
Press the glued-up shapes flat while drying.
6. Position the stringer over ghost body with knot
positions covering the guide holes.
Position and attach the optional knot overlays
where stringer edges will align.
NOTE: if preferred, actual cord could be used
in place of the card stock stringer.
7. Prepare the jack o'lantern accent by positioning
and attaching pumpkin center shape over base shape
(similar to ghost body and center, above), then position
and attach contrast oval behind, with stem on top.
9. Prepare 2 bat accents by layering body over wings base
and attaching in place, with eyes contrast shape behind.
10. Position pumpkin stem area over center of stringer
and glue in place. Then position and attach bat wing tips
over stringer, one on each side.
11. Position the completed ghost assembly from Step 10
over the front of LID build up stack with even
offset margin all around, straight bottom edges matched,
and attach. Press flat while glue dries.
12. Prepare each boxing strip by bending bottom edge flange tabs
back, and also bending along segment perforations and
end tabs.
13. Locate and identify the various single (LID) and double (BASE)
symbols that will assist in the boxing assembly.
Here the triangle single symbol that indicates 
the bottom segment is being pointed out.

This illustration shows the positioning of the various
symbols at the ends of the three boxing strips
that compose this box.

14. To preview and re-bend the strip segments to more
closely follow the straight faceted shape to which they
will attach, it may be helpful to position them around
the shape, with symbols assisting.
The shapes shown here are for the BASE.
15. Begin (LID shown) by positioning the bottom segment
tab along the bottom edge of the straight edge shape,
then align and attach, with tab wrapping around edge
and attaching onto backside.
16. Continue to position and attach each segment tab
along edge of main shape in similar manner.
NOTE that there may be a bit of margin or looseness
to how boxing fits to shape, allowing for paper weight
variations. Simply adjust and attach in best fashion possible.
This reversed position image, below, is showing 
the process from the step described above, 
with tabs wrapping to backside.
17. At the end of the first strip, locate the matched symbol
to identify the next strip in the sequence, then position
the straight end of new strip to overlap the end tab
and attach in place.
18. Continue to position, wrap and attach tabs
along the main shape, then . . . 
. . . repeat to attach the third boxing strip.
19. Complete the wrapping and attaching process,
then at final segment, position bottom tab and ALSO
tuck the end tab under the beginning straight end
to complete that final boxing seam.
20. Repeat the process to complete the BASE boxing
assembly in the same manner.
21. Identify the guide marks on backside of LID stack
which will assist in positioning of the boxing assembly, then . . .
. . . apply glue to backside of assembly,
position so corresponding straight edges align
at ALL guide marks, adjust, and glue in place.
NOTE it may prove helpful to a secure attachment
to place a flat book of relative weight to hold boxing
down while glue dries.
22. Repeat Step 21 to position and attach BASE
boxing to the BASE built-up stack.
23. Assembly the paper button by layering the circle
shapes with cord holes and edges aligned exactly and
gluing together. Align and glue rim rings together.
Position rim over circle with edges aligned 
and glue together. Press flat while drying.
24. Prepare a fabric swatch bowtie by cutting a shape
slightly larger than 1" x 2.5" then wetting a fraying
edges for rustic look. Cinch and stitch or wrap center.
25. Position bowtie at 'chin' and attach in place.
26. Add cord tie and bow through button holes,
then position and attach at bowtie center.
27. To close the box, fit the LID over the BASE
while assisting the shaped boxing as needed,
and slide the two together.
Here is the completed, closed box.

Pumpkin 3D Pleated Form


Pleated zigzags across the accordion-fold panel create
the dimensional shape that suggesting an autumn pumpkin.  
(Experience with pleated ornaments will be helpful to execute
this advanced design.)  String or soft twine is threaded 
through needle holes at ends to gather pleats into 
a cinched ring. Two leaf and tendril curls add accents, 
with dimensional stem stub’s narrow end tucked
and glued at form’s top depression. 
Measures approx. 4.375” tall (including stem) x 4.5” diameter. 

The more-complex shaping of this pleated form with perforations
that will be redirected to be mountain AND valley folded
on the same line will create torque and tension that can easily
cause tearing  along tiny cuts. Gentle handling, experimentation 
with spreading of areas being direction-ally folded, 
and use of most flexible paper choice will help to minimize this. 
Below is one good heavier but NOT card stock 
commercially-available paper selection,
the one that was used in the sample project.
(Available from Hobby Lobby and other retail outlets.)
It is also possible to mend tear away with cello tape mini strips
on the backside of panels.
Finally, be patient and practice the folding technique to learn
how to support the vulnerable perf lines, and how to re-direct them.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A pleated panel (3)
B stem   C top stem cover
D & E leaf with swirl(s)
F bottom cover
2. Identify the top of the perforated panels by locating
the left side flange tabs that will be used to connect
the panels together eventually. A notch near the top
of the edge provides a sort of "arrow" to point to top.
3. On the opposite side edge from the flanges,
begin by folding the FIRST top-to-bottom long perforation line
as a "mountain" fold. Then . . . 
. . . continue alternating direction of folds ("valley"
then "mountain", etc.) across the full width of the panel.
4. Bend the short zigzag perforation lines across
the center, ALL as "mountain" bends . . .
. . . adjusting hand positioning as needed to allow
fingers/thumbs to reach into the center of panel
to complete the zigzag bends.
5. Repeat Step 4 process to bend the zigzag
perforations near the lower edge in the same manner . . .
. . . and near the upper edge as well.
6. Begin to shape the panel by working along the CENTER
zigzag perforations first. (Top of panel is toward right
in this photo.) 
A) The upper half of the first "mountain" fold
remains as originally folded. However, the lower half
fold will be re-directed to be a "valley" fold.
For this to occur, the halves will need to swing slightly down
and inward where the zigzag bends are, dictated
by the ANGLE of the diagonal perforation.
B) For the second long perforation, the same pattern
will be followed, allowing the right (upper) half maintains
the "valley" original fold direction, while the left half
will be re-directed to be a "mountain" fold.
C) As this sequence proceeds, gather, compress and stack
fan folds as fingers re-direct bends while assisting formation
by swinging sides down and slightly inward . . .
. . . until this is accomplished across the whole width.
7. Spread the folds to be mostly stretched, then work the shaping
along bottom zigzag, taking care to support and
minimize the TORQUE of the back-and-forth bends: 
A) along the straight perforation lines at bottom end,
the fold direction will be re-directed as was done for
center zigzags - opposite what remains as part
of the 'extended' straight perforation line next to it; 
end tips will swing down and inward in similar manner 
as was done in Step 6; 
B) Fan-fold and gather and compress the folds . . .
. . . allowing the panel to remain flat/spread as long as needed
as the lines are "popped" down to redirect without
much torque which may cause perforations to tear.
8. Repeat Step 7 to shape the top along the zigzag.
9. Complete the pleating and shaping of all 3 panels.
10. Flatten out the panels, then align the straight side
edge to overlap the opposite flange tabs of second panel,
adjust to align segments of the edges to glue first seam.
Once secure, re-adjust and firmly re-press along the
pleat folds adjacent to the seam - this will help the seams
to be less visible and more like ALL other pleats in final form.

11. Repeat to complete second side seam in similar manner.
12. Form the assembly into a large tube to align,
adjust and glue the final side seam.
13. Prepare a 36-40" length of lacing cord
(for the sample, I used no.5 pearl cotton yard),
then thread a darning or tapestry needle with the finest
eye possible that will accept the cord and still fit
through the cut holes of panels.
Fold back a couple of inches at non-needle end to
tie a 'stop' knot as shown.
14. Begin anywhere, inserting the needle on one LOW
angled end edge through first hole punch, across
on backside, then through adjacent hole. Pull yarn/cord through
to complete the first 'stitch'.
15. Continue to 'stitch' around the perimeter in
the same manner, gathering the pleats onto the cord . . .
. . . until the circuit has been completed, compressing
the form as the stitching proceeds as may be comfortable.
When pulled in to near-final cinching, the cord length can be
CUT near where the halfway point would have been
to allow the remaining cord to stay threaded through needle
for the pass along the punch holes of the other end.
Tie the ends in single overhand style knot, then . . .
. . . continue to ease pleats inward to tightest position,
then hold in place to preserve this form while tying
the second overhand knot to form a secure granny
or square knot.
Trim ends to a couple of inches long, then tuck them
down into the remaining 'opening' tube.
16. Repeat Step 15 for the remaining edge to knot end,
stitch to gather pleats onto cord, cinch up, and tie off and tuck.
17. Prepare the stubby stem by bending back on
all perforation lines for top and bottom attached hexagon
'caps', panel edges, side seam tab and end wedge tabs.
18. Form the shape into a tube to bring straight side edge
to overlap opposite tab to perforation line and glue seam.
This may most easily accomplished by inserting a pencil
or rod-like tool into tube and under seam to provide
a press-against surface. Or . . .
. . . the symmetry of this shape will allow it to be
flattened at this stage of assembly to press along seam.
19. re-shape back into tube form, if necessary, then
bend end tabs in (shown is top of stem - complete
bottom smaller end first, to allow a pencil end to be
inserted through large end's hex opening to assist
with gluing 'cap' down there).
20. Apply glue to tabs, then bend 'cap' down into place,
square up to tube wall edges, and apply pressure
until dry and secure.
Complete both narrow bottom and wider top flaps this way.
21. Position and attach the plain hexagon 'cover'
onto the top of the stub to conceal the opening.
22. As desired, add some 'embossed' detail to the leaves
by free-hand scoring a center (and side) vein with
a rounded semi-sharp tool such as this stylus.
23. Add curl to the leaf tips . . .
. . . and tendril curls, then . . .
. . . add a little bend at the scored vein near tip.
24. Position and secure the stem ends by adding a dab
of adhesive, then inserting down into the depression at
the top of the pleated form.
25. Position and attach the narrow end of the stem form
down into the depression at top of hold, concealing
leaf stem ends. Use quick-grab glue such as Fabri-Tack
or hot melt glue, then hold the stem in its most-vertical
position until secure.
26. At bottom of form, position and attach the scallop
circle 'cover' into the depression to conceal the opening.
NOTE: bend the scallop edges forward a little first.
Here is the completed pumpkin.