Friday, January 15, 2021

Snowflake 3D Ornament Jack Ctr

Magical and dimensional, this snowflake ornament 
adds sparkle to winter, Christmas or themed decor. 
(The center "crown" sort of detail evokes the ball-tipped
vintage children's toy called "jacks and ball".
Cut 7 or 8 layers of the few shapes, align carefully 
and glue together to create thickened components 
resembling thin Baltic birch wood. 
(Use a flat weight to press the shapes while they dry.) 
Fit components together and glue, add hanging 
ribbon or twine. Finished snowflake measures 
approx. 4.7” tall x 3.4” deep. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
NOTE: each component has 7-8 layers so that when glued
together in a stack and pressed flat with a weight,
they resemble Baltic Birch laser cut shapes.
*Use D test slot and rectangles to determine how many
layers of the papers selected will be needed to fit
snugly into the slot during final assembly.
A whole main snowflake shape
B center double-tipped arm
C single tip arms (6 sets, composed of 1-2 top
layers with straight base, 4 center layers with
center nib base edge, 1-2 top layers with straight base;
see step 3 for details)
*D test slot with 7-8 test rectangles to simulate layers
to determine layer quantity needed for components
2. Stack the test rectangles, then . . . 
. . . insert them into the test slot. They should fit snugly
but still be able to slide through.
3. Single tip components will be composed of 1-2 top
layers with straight base, 4 center layers with
center nib base edge, 1-2 top layers with straight base.
4. Apply adhesive to one surface to be joined, then
layer the first two shapes and precisely align ALL cut
edges. Press thoroughly with fingertips or tools (without
shifting alignment). Continue to add the other shapes in 
sequence until all are stacked and joined, working quickly.
Immediately press the stack under a flat heavy object
such as this book, or wood plank, or covered free weight,
etc. Allow to dry thoroughly - usually several hours.
Pressing in this way helps avoid warping or curling
possible when liquid adhesive is used.
5. Continue the stacking and joining step for each
of the other components.
All components are shown here in finished stacks.
6. Begin the assembly by inserting the side edge
of the double-tipped center shape into the vertical
slot (with hang hole at top) of the whole snowflake . . .
. . . pausing near half way to apply clear quick-grab
glue up the center spine where slot will be positioned.
(Fabri-Tack adhesive used here.)
Push the center arm fully into position so that it
is centered in the slot side to side and also
top to bottom. Hold in place until glue is cured and strong.
7. Place the first of the four single tip arms in similar
manner, inserting the side edge into the slot of one
of the main snowflake arms, pausing to apply glue at
centerline, then pushing fully into place so that slot edges
align at arm center, also assisting the base edge nib
to slot into the double tip arm's center slot.
8. Continue to position, add adhesive, then slide
fully into place the remaining 3 arms.
Here is the completed snowflake with all arms in place.
9. Add clear sparkle glitter (spray adhesive applied
to snowflake surfaces first) as desired.
10. Thread hang ribbon (and bead, as desired)
through top hang hole to finish the ornament.

Saturday, January 9, 2021

Feather Star Card Faux or Real Stitch

Delicate details and five layered shapes create 
a feathered star quilt block card – be sure to use 
sharp blade when cutting faux stitch overlays. 
“Welded” shapes make the patchwork easy to assemble 
with guide marks on “faux stitch” layers (see sample above).
Or, use no. 5 pearl cotton “thread” with darning needle #24 
to add real embroidery style stitches to 
the main star points and center (lower model is "real" stitched). 
Card finishes at 5.75” x 5.75” when side or top folded.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A card base with center fold perforation
B card front panel with guide marks for diamonds,
center hole registration cut out
C snowflake/star feathered base shape layer 1
with point diamonds (8)
D contrast layer 2
E snowflake/star points (with stitching needle holes)
F contrast inner layer 4 (shows thru as triangles)
G top layer 5 star (with stitching needle holes)
2. If actual stitching will NOT be applied to shapes,
these FAUX STITCH shapes for star point overlays
(left; cut 8 sets) and center star can be used to replace
stitching. Or "release compound path" and remove/delete
the needle or registration holes on the two shapes where they
are found to result in PLAIN shapes.
3. Identify the cut mark guides on the front panel,
including the outer and inner lines that mark
the center line of the diamond tip shape.
Use the guide mark inner lines to assist to align
the feathered base shape . . . 
. . . placing the base shape over the center of panel
so that the registration center circle cut outs align
precisely, and so that the "valley" angle at arm ends
line up at inward guide mark cut. Then glue in place.
4. Study the layer #2 contrast shape edges to identify
the shorter edges and the longer edges that alternate.
Position the shorter edges . . . 
. . . to align under the edge triangles. (The longer edges
will align at the base of each arm.)
Position and attach the layer #2 shape.
5. Position and attach each diamond tip so that
vertical centers align with guide marks. 
NOTE that the outer diamond tips should fall 
just shy of panel edge.
6. The layer #3 shape, when positioned, should be
centered over the previous layers, with the "star" points
extending to the "valley" angle of the feather layer #1.
FOR FAUX STITCH VERSION: the shape can be positioned
and attached now. 
FOR REAL STITCH VERSION: complete the stitching
before attaching this shape, or proceeding further.
This image shows how the "chicken foot" shape is placed
and attached so that all four tip ends align over the registration
holes cut into shape #3, and the punch dot aligns over
registration hole near tip.
7. Position layer #4 over center of assembly so that
the octagon "star" tips align at the deep "valley" angle
of the star that is layer #3, and attach in place.

8. Position and attach the top layer star so that
tips align at the inward valley angles of the previous layer.
This image shows how the faux stitch shape for
center (top layer) star fits to cover the registration holes.
ADDING THE REAL STITCHES:
9. Cut a 20-24" length of no. 5 pearl cotton that
contrasts with the card stock shape, and thread onto
a #24 darning needle or largest needle gauge that
the "yarn" can be threaded through and still go through
the needle holes of card stock without tearing out.
10. Cut a small cello tape piece to anchor the thread
tail end on the back side approx. where shown here.
11. Working in just one point at a time, insert needle carrying yarn 
through the bottom or most inward hole, push through
to front, and draw yarn through completely until stopped
by anchor tape.
12. On front side, insert needle in near-top needle hole
(NOT the tip hole), push through to backside and
draw yarn through completely to make the long middle stitch.
13. Insert needle through one of the side holes
and draw fully through to the front. Then . . . 
. . . insert down from front into the middle (empty)
hole, push needle through and draw yarn through.
This completes one side angled stitch.
14. Complete the side angled stitch in similar manner
for the opposite side.
15. Insert needle through tip hole and pull through.
16. Complete a colonial knot" using the figure 8 arrangement
shown in this illustration:
Here is the project's Colonial knot preparation.
Continue by . . . 
. . . pulling knot tight onto needle, then re-insert needle 
through same tip hole, and draw yarn through to back.
17. On backside, re-direct the yarn so that it won't
show from the front between completed point and
new point. For the FIRST point, slide the needle and
carry yard under the long and one side stitch as shown.
(For REMAINING points, see Step 19.)
18. Insert the needle into the bottom hole of the next
point, and . . . 
. . . draw the yarn through fully.
Check to make sure the yarn stays fully behind
the card stock star shape.
19. When moving to next point, pass the needle under
bottom "pass" yarn to keep the yarn tucked behind card stock.
20. Continue to repeat the stitching process,
moving from completed point to uncompleted point
until all are stitched. If additional yard length needs to
be added, try to end and "tie off" between points,
trimming a short tail and anchoring with small piece
of cello tape (see tape anchor at lower right point).
21. When all points are completed, tie off in the same
manner as when adding a length . . . 
. . . trimming a short tail and anchoring with small
piece of cello tape.
Here is the completed star points shape,
stitched and seen from front.
22. Complete the stitching on the smaller center star
in a similar way, anchoring the thread length on backside,
then beginning the first tall, up-the-point stitch by
inserting needle at base inward needle hole,
drawing yarn through, then stitching through point
needle hole and drawing yarn through completely.
23. Begin next angled stitch by re-inserting needle
up through base hole, and drawing yarn through. . .
. . . next, insert needle down through top hole of
"inverted V" portion of design as shown. 
24. Insert needle back-to-front through inward hole of 
second "V" leg, then insert a second time at top hole
of "V". This completes one repeat.
25. Begin the second repeat by bringing needle up
through bottom of up-the-point stitch, then down
through tip hole, and . . . 
. . . continue through the sequence in steps 22-24 to add  
stitches all the way around the star.
26. Complete the final stitch of final 'V', then draw
the yarn through to the back and tie off, anchor with
a small piece of cello as described for larger star shape.
27. The completed stitched larger and smaller star
are positioned in the layering sequence as described
in steps 6 & 8 above.
Here is the completed card with real stitched
accents.