Sunday, December 1, 2019

Double Bow with Circles Overlay

A pair of loops on each side of center, 
with slightly larger circle-punched overlay loops 
create a festive bow decoration for gifts, wreaths, 
and other seasonal decor. 
Double streamers form base, with shaped “knot” wrap 
center to complete the design. 
For extra flare, add the sized-to-fit “Cedar Mini Sprig” 
design on top of knot. 
Measures approx. 7” wide x 5” tall x 1.375” deep assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A circle-punched outer bow loops
B interior bow loops
C streamers base shape   D knot wrap
2. Prepare the interior loops shape by adding
curl to the center portions of each leaf extension
by using a rod-like tool such as this spatula tool barrel
so that the loops will smoothly curl back toward
the center. NOTE this image shows the bottom
of the shape, with the curl direction shaping
the tip ends back toward the center . . .
. . .which becomes the center FRONT.
3. Repeat the process for the outer loops shape,
taking care that the curl/pulling pressure does
not rip or tear.
4. Add curl to the transitional area of the knot wrap
(between the curved-edge front and the back
straight tabs. This will allow the knot to smoothly
wrap around the bow center thickness.
Here is the knot with curl.
5. Position the outer loops shape face down on
work surface, then position interior loops shape
face down on outer loops shape, line up center
circle holes and extensions at center, and attach
by gluing just around the center.
9. Carefully ease the lower first loop tip inward to
overlap and match circle holes, and glue tip in place.
10. Repeat for the first lower circle-punched outer loop.
11. Repeat for the second lower interior then outer loop,
and continue with the upper interior loops in the
same kind of order.
13. Position the loops assembly over the streamer
base, match the centers and general thrust of
bow extensions and streamers, and attach in place.
NOTE it may be helpful to use quick-grab adhesive
such as Fabri-Tack of hot melt.
14. Position the knot wrap over the center of
the bow assembly, then . . .
. . . wrap ends around to back, match punch circles
(or adjust snugness of the wrap to your own
preference), then attach ends to backside of base.
Here is the completed bow (with upper loops
overlapping lower loops - thumbnail photos
show the bow upside top downward).
15. To assemble the sprig, begin with the shapes . . .
. . . assemble the berries unit by attaching
the single berries onto the tri-berry base.
Stack the left & right two-branch top cedar twig shapes
on top of the coordinated longer base, match
the stem ends, and glue where they overlap.
Layer the left hook onto the right hook twigs with
middle portion of stems overlapped, and glue
together where they overlap.
Position and attach the boxwood twig over
the center, then . . .
. . . add the berries assembly.
16. Position and attach the sprig over the center
of the knot.
Here is the finished bow.

Star 3D Box Ornament with Patchwork Accents

Multiple crease lines of the single piece hull 
create this shaped ornament.
Assembly includes folding in half, overlapping 
half diamond “flanges” and “puffing” out 
to form its dimensional shape. Fill with gift contents 
through unattached bottom angle edge, 
then close with a tab inserted into slot. 
Top point has circle cutout to insert 
a knotted ribbon hanging loop. 
Add mixed or matched geometric “patch” shapes 
on front and back as accents. 
Measures approx. 4.75” tall x 4.5” wide x 
1.5” deep when assembled, puffed and closed. 

1. Identify and cut the shapes: 
A main star box hull
B patchwork accent shapes, 2 sets (pentagon - 1;
star points - 5)
2. Prepare the main hull shape by bending forward
 (valley folds) on the perforation lines marked in RED 
in this diagram, and back (mountain folds) on 
all other perforations.

One good way to do this is to place the shape
face side down on the work surface then fold
the edges where the full diamond side panels are,
(shown shaded in the diagram above) . . .
. . . also folding back on the center seam.
Next, bend on the short perf lines within 
the side diamonds.
Finally, bend on all the star point lines and . . .
. . . around the center pentagon.
Here is the completed hull with bending completed.
3. Locate and be familiar with the closure tab, and . . .
. . . slot opposite, and . . .
. . . where the top center hole cut out is.
4. Position and attach the accent "patchwork"
shapes onto the face of the hull for both front
and back. 
5. Fold the hull in half on the center perforation,
then fold the side diamond center line . . .
. . . so that it wraps over the back edge,
and glue the half diamond "tab" in place.
Repeat for the other two half diamond tabs.
 6. Puff the star box open by inserting a finger
inside through the un-attached half diamond tab,
and "pop" the side diamond shape inward.
7. Repeat this for all of the sides, including . . .
. . . the side where the closure tab is located.
8. To close the box, bend the tab back
and insert it into the slot.
Open up the box to continue . . . 
. . . to finish the ornament with a ribbon loop.
9. Prepare a ribbon loop with ends knotted together.
10. Prepare a "threading loop" tool of doubled
floral style wire as shown.
11. Hook the wire threader around the ribbon loop  . .
. . . then insert the end of wire threader into the box
hull, across, and out the top circle opening.
Carefully pull the ribbon loop through the top
opening until . . .
. . . it is stopped by the knot at ends.
Glue in place if desired.
Here is the completed ornament with the ribbon hanger.
If additional embellishment is desired,
consider using this 2D Cedar Mini Sprig
that is shown in a different project tutorial with

Saturday, November 30, 2019

December 3D Calendar Flip Tiles

Tent-style base with overlaid grilles presents 
a seasonal display to count down the days 
until Christmas. Layered tiles have stencil number cut outs 
for ‘tens’ and ‘ones’ to show either how many days are left, 
or alternatively the December date. 
Holly and sprig side decoration adds a seasonal flare. 
Re-configure as a regular desk-style calendar 
by adding a ‘3’ to the ‘tens’ tiles stack. 
Measures approx. 7.25” wide x 6.25” tall 
x 3” deep when fully assembled. 

ASSEMBLY:  1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main tent frame front & back
B main tent frame bottom 'solid' panel
C bottom panel reinforcements (3-4) for build up
D triangle tent interior reinforcement/ring support
E rings end support reinforcement panels (2 sets of 3)
F rings: 4 pair front/back; *4 sets (7-8) each interior
G slot test and strips (9) for test layering
H grilles for front (1) and back (1)
I grill/tent headers for front and back
J 'tens' number tiles (front, contr. middle, back)
K 'ones' number tiles layers
*see step 2 for explanation about determining quantity
If including the greenery embellishment,
also cut the shapes for that, as shown
here including the sprig two-part base.
2. Complete a test using the strips and test slot:
stack the strips on top of each other, and glue together,
stacking 7, then testing, and adding additional strips
one by one until the best thickness is achieved.
Part of the testing process includes using the test slot
shape shown here, taking care that the arrow remains
horizontal (pointing side to side), then . . .
. . . inserting the strips through the opening
(which represents the ring reinforcements openings)
to see how many layers are required for a snug
but moveable stack. NOTE that the strip stack
has the cut edges at top and bottom, with top
nearest the side-to-side arrow.
When the right stack quantity is determined,
translate that into the number of layers required
for each ring assembly. EXAMPLE: if 9 layers works,
that would mean 1 for front, 7 for interior, 1 for back
to equal the 9 layers. Remember, there are 4 ring units.
(See Step 4 for the rings layering assembly.)
3. Layer each of the 'tens' and 'ones' tiles as shown,
positioning and attaching the contrast 'show-thru'
layer under/behind the front tile stencil (slightly
offset smaller outer edges) . . .
. . .with hole punches aligned,
and then . . .
. . . positioning and attaching the back tile,
taking care to align all cut edges as precisely
as possible.
NOTE that it is advisable to use a flat weight
such as this repurposed weight machine bar
(fabric covered) placed on top of the glued-up stack
to help keep it flat, avoid warping or curling,
during the drying process. Leave under weight
for several hours until the shape is completely dried.
4. Layer the (4) ring units by stacking the interior
ring shapes (with blunt-cut ends) on top of each other,
one by one, taking care to align all cut edges as
precisely as possible. Press under flat weights
until completely dried.
5. For the front and back ring layers, bend forward
the tiny tabs at ends, then . . .
. . . layer and attach on the front and back of
the stack, taking care to align edges as previously.
Press under flat weight until dried as before.
6. Layer and attach the bottom panel reinforcement
shapes, taking care to align outer edges.
Press under a flat weight until fully dried.
7. Layer the ring reinforcement shapes into two
stacks of three shapes each, taking care to align
outer edges - and especially the openings.
NOTE OF EXPLANATION: these holes are intended,
along with the tent triangle reinforcement shape,
to anchor the ends of the rings. The depth of the opening
helps to hold the rings once glued in place in position,
to withstand the tile-flipping actions. Hole alignment
is critical to be able to insert ring ends in.
8. Prepare the main tent frame by bending back on
all the perforation lines for the center top bend,
as well as the side flanges.
9. Prepare the main tent bottom panel by bending
back the long (attachment) tabs and the short end
edge flanges. (NOTE this image shows the panel
from the backside.)
10. Position and attach the front bottom main tent
shape to the bottom panel by overlapping the straight
edge to the tab's perforation line, adjusting ends
for alignment. Press the seam under a weight until dry.
11. Bend the side edge flanges back and glue
in place on both edges of tent assembly, including
the bottom panel. Press under flat weight if possible.
12. Position and attach the bottom panel stack
reinforcement centered on the bottom panel outer
surface as shown, within the perforation lines.
Press under a flat weight until dry.
13. Position each grille, front and back, over
the respective portion of the main tent assembly,
aligning the ring openings, and squaring up
with the frame, and glue in place at header area
or edges of grille. Press under a flat weight
if possible.
14. Position and attach each front or back header strip
over the top portion of the grille/main tent frame,
aligning the circle openings. Press flat if possible
during the drying process.
15. Form the main tent frame assembly into
a triangular tube to align and complete the bottom
back seam as for the front bottom seam done previously.
16. Prepare the triangular tent reinforcement shape
by bending back on all perforation lines for panels
and end tabs.
17. Bend the panels into position to align 
with the triangular end piece and complete the seams.
18. Position the ring opening reinforcement shapes
behind/under the front and back panels of
the reinforcement shape, taking care that all ring
openings line up precisely, and glue in place.
19. Apply glue to the reinforcement panels, then
insert under the main tent assembly top angle,
slide upward to tightly fit, then . . .
. . . apply pressure all along to assist attachment
on all touching edges. NOTE: it may be helpful
to use quick-grab adhesive such as Fabri-Tack.
20. Arrange the tiles into the 'tens' stack (1 & 2)
and the 'ones' stack (0-9) in advance of 
loading onto rings.
21. Position the 'tens' tiles onto the first ring, then . . .
. . . then flex slightly to slide the ring into position
over the tent ridge to the farthest-left position . . .

. . .then adjust to insert ends through the reinforcement
openings on one side, then the other.
On the underside, use a tool such as this spatula
to reach inside to bend the end tabs back to attach
to the reinforcement surfaces. Do this for each ring end.
22. Repeat the ring positioning and attachment
for the second ring on the 'tens' stack. 
23. Repeat for the rings positioning and attachment
for the 'ones' stack.
24. If completing the greenery accent,
assembly it as follows: 
A) Position and attach the bottom needles sprig
over the two-sprig base.
B) Position and attach the left side sprig
with the circle end over the base sprigs.
C) Layer the vein shapes over the centers
of the holly leaves and attach.
D) Position and attach the holly leaves
with circle ends overlapping the base
assembly, arranging on angles as shown.
E) Add one berry over the circle end position,
then position and attach the other two below
(see the next screen for suggested positions).
25. Position and attach the sprig over the left side
of the tent where it will not interfere with
the tiles flipping function.

To change the number or date, carefully lift and
flip from back "resting" position over the tent top
to the front, as shown here changing from December
24th to 25th. When there is no 'tens' number being
displayed, both of these tiles rest backside-up on tent back.
Here is the completed desk count down display.