Snowman Cocoa Mug Stitched Card

 

Shaped cold-weather card with the special touch 

of hand-stitching features mug front layer and 

reinforcing second layer that are pre-punched to complete 

a snowman (stitching chart included in cut file). 

Third layer of mug includes a cutout that surrounds 

cross-stitching as buffer. 

Whipped cream swirled dollop is layered, 

then bottom flange is inserted through mug back layers slot. 

Tie optional two-layer sentiment tag through 

mug handle front layers. 

Optional “hugs & hot cocoa” print and cut tag panel design 

can substitute for tag as desired. 

Tag measures approx. 4.125” wide x 5.6” tall 

when assembled and closed.

A companion snowflake cutout flap envelope

that is sized to fit this shaped card is available also.

(Tag will need to be adjusted toward center)

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A mug front layer with stitching holes

B mug second layer with stitching holes, cream slot

C mug back layer with stitching "buffer" window

D whipped cream contour front layer

E whipped cream base layer

F tag base with front print & cut rectangle

G tiny snowflake embellishments with twine ties

H card base with left side perforation for fold

I optional interior sentiment panel

Also select and assemble the stitching needles

(recommended tapestry blunt needles with large eye

size no. 24/26) and floss colors. The snowman will need:

white for snow; orange for nose; scarf & hat color;

black for eyes, buttons, arms.

2. Complete preparation and glue up for a few shapes

and press each flat under a heavy weight until dry:

A) layer the whipped cream contour front shape

onto the base shape, matching edges;

B) center and attach the "hugs & hot cocoa" print and cut

panel (or the plain label if preferred) onto

the tab base shape.

C) fold the card base in half along the perforation . . . 

. . . then open to position and attach

the interior sentiment label as shown.

3. Prepare the two stitching hole shapes by cleaning out

any partially attached "chad" circle cutouts from ALL holes,

using the stitching needle to push these through to

backside, then rub or individually remove.

4. Position and attach the mug front stitching shape

onto the mug back stitching shape . . .

. . . taking care that all holes are as precisely aligned

as possible. One way to accomplish this is to push

the stitching needle through several holes and

sliding until perfectly aligned, as needed.

5.  Prepare to stitch by cutting a length of 6-ply floss

approx. 30-36" long (shorter for smaller areas),

and separating TWO of the plies.

A) Line up the ends of both plies and straighten

the plies so that they are without twists.

B) Fold the two plies to line up the four ends, then

crease the loop end to create a half-way loop.

Thread the loop through the needle's eye, then . . . 

. . . pull the loop through, leaving approx. 5-6" cut ends tail.

The loop becomes the long "end", with 4 plies

together which will form cross stitches.

6. Review the following diagram to fully understand

how the cross stitches are formed uniformly

with RIGHT SLANT stitches made across the row first,

then the return half of the run completing

the LEFT SLANT stitches.

7. Refer to the Stitching Chart, either on screen,

or printed, to locate the bottom-most beard cross stitch.

This is where the first stitch will be made,

afterward working upward through the design.

8. Visualize the 'X' of the first stitch, then insert the needle

UP from backside through the top left hole of the bottom FOUR

that will create the 'X". Pull needle and thread through

leaving approx. 3-4" of loop "tail" still on backside.

9. Insert the needle into the bottom right hole . . . 

. . . then pass the needle through the loop . . .

. . . and cinch the thread up firmly on the back. 

This is the "tie on" step.

10. Continue the X stitch pattern in the next pair of holes . . .

 . . . then continue across to complete the RIGHT SLANT stitches 

across the first (bottom) row of chart . . . 

. . .  then return back across to complete 

the LEFT SLANT stitches.

11. To continue, move up to next row after each row . . . 

. . . and add the LEFT slant stitches across and

then move back across to complete each X stitch

with RIGHT slant stitches.

12. Continue in the same manner to begin and complete

rows. When floss length on needle gets close to being

too short to continue, pause in mid stitch when needle

is pulled through to backside, then slip the needle under

the adjacent 4-5 stitches. Pull the needle fully through, then . . .

. . . remove needle and trim the excess floss close

to the stitching it crossed under.

This is "tying off".

13. As stitching progressed up the chart, skip the stitch

spaces for the non-white Xs (neck scarf) as shown, working

LEFT slant stitches across row with thread "floating"

across skipped spaces on mug backside, then

returning back in same manner to complete RIGHT slants.

14. NOTE where the "half cross stitches" are on

the printed chart that will help shape the snowman body,

head, and scarf at some edges. One of these is indicated

in this photo, and its punch hole configuration includes

an extra tiny needle hole in the center of the usual four

holes that create the X. 

Complete these special stitches by making a "half-slant"

stitch as shown on the diagram.

15. Complete the white stitches for snowman body and

head, tying off and beginning new floss length as needed,

until white stitches on chart are all in place.

16. Tie on successive colors to complete scarf, hat,

arms, body buttons and coal eyes, and orange nose.

For better definition, consider tying on a two-floss length

to outline "straight" stitches around eyes and nose, etc.

17. Position and attach the "buffer" window mug back layer . . .

. . . so that outer card stock edges match, including

curved slot edges, and that the window edges

fall just beyond the completed stitching all around.

18. Begin to attach the whipped cream assembled shape

by slipping the bottom edge of attached tab

through the curved slot . . . 

. . . then apply adhesive to face where it will

touch and attach to backside of buffer shape.

Adjust cream shape so tab edges are parallel to

mug side edges, and so that the cream shows 

appropriately at bottom above mug "rim".

NOTE that the card base offset will need to mimic

the shaped edges of cream, so compare the assembly

to the card base front corresponding edges and make

adjustments to cream tab attachment before glue dries.

19. Attach the tag to the mug assembly handle

with twine bow, as desired.

20. Position and attach the mug assembly onto

the folded card base, with .125" offset margin

all around (excepting the tied-on tag).

Position and attach the tiny snowflake buttons 

with bow tie embellishments (or jewels, etc.) as desired.

Here is the completed card.

Angel Peg 3D Figure Box

 

Simple dimensional angel replicates a peg form 

composed of six-sided tube connected to spherical head. 

Wings are swirly filigree layers glued together 

for thickness, attached at center back. 

Box’s base compartment is sized to slide inside body tube, 

with thickened circle bottom. 

Angel box measures approx. 5.875” wide (wingspan) 

x 5.375” tall x 2.125” deep (body diameter) 

when fully assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A body tube main shape

B body tube overlays (3-5)

C head lower dome

D head upper dome   E eye underlay

F halo layers: 2 plain interior layers, 1 halo with tab,

top and bottom outer layers (gold foil)

G head-to-body triangle post

H box base upper opening collar reinforcement

I wing layers for left & right: 2 interior shapes, 

1 front, 1 back reversed shape

J wing attachment bracket (2-3)

K base box insert tube

L base bottom platform upper layer with hex cutout

M base bottom platform whole circles (4)

2. Complete the layering and glue up of several

shapes, then press under a heavy flat weight

until completely dry:

A) base whole circles

B) wings attachment bracket

C) halo interior rings with tab ring as bottom layer . . .

. . . then add foil top and bottom layers.

D) left and right wing stacks

(As mentioned, press under a flat heavy weight

such as this thick book - possibly with other heavy

objects placed on top of book - until glued-up stack

of shapes is completely dried.)

3. Prepare the main body tube shape by bending

 back on all perforations for panels, edge tabs or

flanges, top hex panel, etc.

4. Identify the "front" panel which is directly under

the attached hex top 'lid', then position and attach

3 or 5 accent panels offset within the perforations

that define the center 3 or 5 wall panels.

5. Begin to shape the "neck" portion of body shape

by bending the first two trapezoid walls at top 

slightly inward to overlap the straight edge (right

in this picture) over the adjacent tab to perf line,

and glue seam. 

6. Repeat step 5 for the remaining 4 seams.

7. Form the body shape into a tube to overlap

straight side back edge across adjacent flange to

perf line and glue seam.

NOTE: it may be helpful to insert a rod-like tool 

behind the seam to provide a press-against surface

for applying pressure along the seam until secure.

8. Align the short trapezoid panel seam edge over

flange and join.

9. Bend the top hex opening tabs inward to perpendicular,

adjust the tube so that the top tabs create a regular

hexagon, then apply glue to the face of tabs,

bend the 'lid' hexagon into position with straight

edges aligned at each tab perf line, and glue in place.

NOTE: it may be helpful, once tabs-to-hex lid have

initial hold, to invert the tube top down on flat surface

and apply pressure from inside tube with the eraser

end of a new pencil, or similar tool.

10. Prepare the two head hemisphere shapes by

bending back on all perforation lines for panels,

tabs, top and bottom 'lids', etc.

11. Position and attach the eye underlay panel

behind the eye holes on upper dome's backside.

12. Begin to shape the upper dome by bending back

the edges of first seam sequence as shown, so that

the first segment straight edge (right in this image) 

overlaps the adjacent tab to perforation line, and glue seam.

13. Continue up the seam by bending the next segment

edges into position to overlap and align, then glue seam.

14. Continue in the same manner to align and join the two

segments of each dome seam all across shape.

15. To complete the dome final seam, position

and align the lead straight edge across the three tabs

of end edge in same fashion to join the segments

one by one. Then . . . 

. . . bend the top tabs inward at perpendicular angle,

apply glue to the face of each tab, then bend top 'lid'

hexagon into position so that straight edges align

as precisely as possible with the tab perf lines.

16. Repeat steps 12-15 to complete the head

lower dome.

17. Prepare the head attachment triangle post by

bending the post strip shape back on the three

long perforation lines.

18. Apply glue to the surface of the flange end 

(slightly angled end edges). Form the shape into 

a triangle tube with the flange end 

tucked under the opposite straight edge,

and glue the seam.

NOTE: it may be helpful to insert a narrow rod such as

this bamboo skewer inside the tube behind the seam

to provide a press-against surface for securing seam.

19. Complete the head domes assembly by first

inserting the post through the lower dome triangle

opening and pushing through more than halfway.

Apply thick quick grab glue such as Fabri-Tack being

used for model to the center underside of head upper

dome (where post will attach) . . . 

 . . . as well as to the tuck-under top segments of

lower head dome.

Quickly identify the front of the lower dome where

the triangle post edge is PARALLEL to the hexagon

front edge, then . . . 

. . . orient the lower dome front with the upper dome

front (eyes panel), and slip the lower dome upper

segment edges inside the upper dome . . .

. . . and slide the two together until the upper dome

straight edge aligns at lower dome first segment perf lines.

Immediately push the triangle post inward as far

as it can go until it presses against underside of

upper dome's lid. Approx. .5" of post should remain

outside of lower dome.

20. Join the head to the body by first orienting

the head front to the body front, then inserting

post end into body top panel opening.

Prior to sliding the two shapes fully together,

apply glue around post where the two surfaces

will touch, then slide fully together.

21. Prepare to attach halo to head by positioning

the stacked shape with tab bend downward

and rotated to fall down center back . . . 

. . . and angled slightly so that front rim falls

above top of dome segment that is above eyes panel

as shown, then . . . 

. . . glue the tab in place on head back.

If possible, also apply a discrete dab of glue

to each side front where halo touches head.

NOTE: if preferred, you may be able to devise

alternative methods to attaching the halo

so that it is suspended above head.

22. Position the wing stacked shapes - face side down

in this image, onto the attachment bracket, with

punch holes aligned, and center back straight edges

of wings abutting down bracket center,

and glue each to the bracket.

23. Position wings assembly onto the back of body tube

so that punch holes align, and glue together where

bracket and back panel surfaces touch.

If desired, insert and attach decorative mini brads

through punch holes.

24. Prepare the box base tube shape by bending

back on all perforation lines, except bend forward

at bottom tab perf lines.

25. Form the shape into a tube to align and join

the seam.

NOTE that the symmetrical shape of the tube will allow

for it to be flattened for applying fingertip pressure

along seam, if desired.

26. Slip the top layer base circle ring over the top

of the hex tube, then slide down into position . . .

. . . above bottom tabs, pausing to apply glue to

the upper face of tabs, then . . .

. . . slide fully down into position at tabs perf line

all around, and apply pressure to secure attachment

all around.

27. Position and attach the base bottom to the top

of the whole circle base stack. Apply pressure all

around until secure.

28. Prepare the base rim reinforcement collar shape

by bending the edge tabs forward.

29. Apply glue to the backside of the tabs, then

insert the collar into the top base opening . . .

. . .  and slide into position so that tab top straight

edges align with each of the rim edges of base tube.

Apply fingertip pressure to secure each segment

of the collar seam.

30. To close the box, insert the base tube into

the bottom of the angle body tube, and slide up

into place fully.

Here is the completed angle peg figure.