Sunday, October 30, 2022

Thankful Word on 3D Post and Plank

 
Cut multiple “thankful” word shapes and glue into 
a thick stack so it appears as a wrought iron cut-out. 
Construct the “plank” box lid, then base and add 
built-up platform for thickness and weight. 
Square tube “posts” extend from plank to attach 
to backside of word letters. 
Display measures approx. 11.7” long (word) x 
2.5” deep (plank) x 6” tall. 
Optional taller post shape can increase overall height to 8”.)
(Requires 12x12 cutting capacity and 
4-5 sheets of cardstock plus accent paper.)

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A thankful word cuts (6-7 to stack for thickness)
B post shapes   C collar post anchors (2 sets 4-5 ea.)
D box LID   E box BASE
F base bottom platform stack (4 to stack for thickness)
G accent panels for LID
H interior "strut" supports (attach inside base)
2. Stack and glue together the thankful word cut outs,
adding them one by one to form a stack, taking care
to align ALL cut edges as precisely as possible.
HINT: It may be helpful to stack and glue up 3-4
to begin with, then press and cure for 1-2 hours. Then
add another pair, cure, then add final pair and cure.
PRESSING glued up shapes: immediately after
adjusting and confirming most precise positioning
of glue-up, press under a heavy, flat weight, such
as one large wood plank as shown here, or
several large book volumes, etc., until thoroughly
dried - this may require several hours or over night.
3. Position and glue platform rectangles into a stack, 
then press flat under weight until thoroughly dried.
4. Prepare the posts by bending back on all vertical
perforation lines, including the top end "cap" square
and tiny wedge tabs. NOTE that the post shape
includes a diagonal interior flange to provide strength
and help keep the post straight - marked with
the half-circle "bite" on the edge.
5. Bend the internal flange inward, then continue
to form the strip into a tube.
Apply glue to the outer wall section, then bend
into final position to close the tube. Hold until secure.
Bend top tabs inward, apply glue and bend top
"cap" into position, square up with walls, and hold
in position until secure.
6. Stack the post end collar hollow square sets
and glue together, taking care that interior square
cut out edges are aligned as precisely as possible.
One way to ensure the collar opening is precise
is to use one of the assembled posts to insert
through the opening.
Then press flat with weight until thoroughly dried.

7. Prepare the BASE "tray" by bending back on
all perforation lines for center panel, side walls and
end tabs. NOTE that the BASE tray is distinguishable
from LID tray by a 'B' cut into one end flange.
8. Turn the tray face down, then position and attach
the post end collars so that the interior squares of
collars and base align precisely. Press until dried.
9. Turn the base tray face up again, then position the bottom 
platform assembly on bottom with edges aligned with
center panel perforations, and glue in place.
Press under heavy weight until thoroughly dried.
10. When glued up assembly of base is completed
and dried, complete the corner seams by bending
adjacent walls into position, with straight edge
overlapping tab to perf line, then gluing.
11. Prepare the LID shape by bending back on
all perforation lines in similar manner to BASE.
12. Position and attach accent shapes offset slightly
from panel edges centered with even narrow margins
all around. For center panel, take care that post holes
of LID panel are centered within accent hole cut outs.
Press flat until dried.
13. Bend adjacent walls back to join corner seams.
14. Prepare internal support "strut" sections by
bending tabs forward, and bending back at
vertical short perforation lines within strips,
and forward at end tab of left strips.
NOTE that pairs of strips will be joined into one longer
strut, one strip that includes the inward end tab.
One of the pairs is the upward slot strut, shown below
with the circle cut outs within end tab and bottom tab;
and the other pair for the downward slot strut.
11. Join the pairs into their longer forms by overlapping
the straight end across the opposite end tab to 
perforation, adjusting so that top and bottom edges
 align, then joining seam.
12. Rotate one of the strut assemblies so that the two
create a 'W' (top) and mirror image 'M' as shown,
with tabs at bottom resting on work surface.
13. Position the upward slot strut (with circle cutouts)
above the other strut, adjust so that slots align,
then carefully slot the two together so that they
both sit flat on work surface.
14. Apply glue to the downward surface of strut tabs,
then position inside BASE tray with ends extended
into corners, "window" openings surrounding collars.

FINISHING
15. "Fill" each of the collar wells (center square cutouts)
with adhesive - quick grab glue is recommended.
Then immediately . . .
. . . place the LID over the BASE to close the plank.
(This should be a tight fit, so maneuver lid straight on.)
Push down completely into position, and quickly . . . 
. . . add adhesive between each LID wall and
BASE wall. Press together to true up wall layers.
Finally, insert each post "open" end through lid top
panel down so that the bottom end seats within
the collar "well" inside and at bottom of BASE.
Repeat for second post.
SUGGESTION: at this point in assembly, it may
be helpful to place straight edge props such as
heavy book volume spines or flat-sided household
items against walls to help with joining of wall layers
and leave in place until wall joints are dry.
16. "Dry fit" the positioning of thankful word cut assembly
over the post ends, so that front post is hidden behind
back 'leg' of 'h' and back post is hidden behind
back 'leg' of 'u', as shown below. 
Posts should be approx. generous 1/4" below top edges 
of letters. Apply quick grab glue to top portion of posts
where word will overlap, then position and attach.
Adjust final positioning so that the word cut is
"parallel" to plank (as well as uneven nature of 
word shape may suggest), then prop or hold in place
until secure.
Here is the final word on posts & plank display.


Min Pumpkin Pillow Box Favor with Stand

 
A single side seam and bend-in oval ends 
make this petite favor box quick to cut and build. 
Stem and vine swirl inserted at top slot suggest 
a harvest pumpkin. Glue bottom closed and place it on 
the X-arms tiny stand for an upright harvest table favor. 
(With cut strip and printed guest name, punched 
for twine bow, etc., it can double as place card
for Thanksgiving dinner setting.) 
 Box with stem measures approx. 2.375” wide 
x 4” tall x .8” deep when assembled and closed. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A pillow box hull main shape
B fold-over stem with end tabs
C vine swirl (single layer) with end tab
D stand strip
2. Prepare the hull shape by bending back on end flange
and center long perforation lines, then . . .
carefully creasing along the curve perforation lines,
taking special care at ends so that perf cuts don't
tear out.
3. Prepare the stem shape. For this project,
the fold-over (doubled) stem is demonstrated:
bend back at top center perforation, then bend
end tabs forward.
4. Insert the stem tab(s) through top oval panel slot . . .
. . . then bend vine swirl end tab forward
position it in front of the stem and insert end tab
through slot as well.
On the backside of panel, bend the vine tab back
and glue in place to backside of oval panel. Then . . .
. . . also bend stem tabs back to attach to panel
in similar manner. Allow to dry.
5. Form the assembly into a "tube" to bring side
straight edge to align over fold of bent-inward flange,
adjust for top-to-bottom alignment, and glue seam.
NOTE that the box shape can be flattened on
work surface to allow fingertip pressure to be
applied along seam to secure it.
6. At box bottom, bend the inward oval panel
(connected to the back panel along with the top
unnotched oval panelinto position as the box is shaped 
by slightly "squashing"  sides inward.
Bend the second bottom oval panel into position . . .
. . . then add quick-grab adhesive to top face of
first oval panel (between the oval panels),
then press together to attach oval panels together.
Hold until thoroughly dried.
7. To close the box, bend the top oval panels
inward in similar fashion, unnotched oval first . . .
. . . followed by notched and stem-containing oval.
8. NOTE that the stand is colored dark brown
in the final project, after these images were shot.
Prepare the stand strip by bending short perf
lines forward (valley folds) and long perfs between
knobs back (mountain folds) in a sort of accordion sytle.
9. Apply glue to one side only of the pairs of
segments that fall on each side of a knob pair,
then press those two segments back to back
to form the stand's legs.
Repeat for two more "legs".
10. The final "leg" of stand is formed with the two
end segments - apply glue to backside of one,
then press together.
Here is the completed, four-legged stand.
11. To stand the pillow box pumpkin on table top,
the bottom of box is positioned side to side across
the stand's center 'X' formation.
Here is the completed pumpkin on
its stand.
12. Although a name tag shape IS NOT
included in the cut file, you can easily prepare
guest name tags by typing and printing names
within a word text program, trimming to desired
rectangular size, then punching a hole at end.
Tie twine accent, OR tie tag around stem.