Tackle Box Reel Spin Card Assembly Guide

A tackle box shape is the card base

with a reel that spins on a brad fastener. 

Inner circle layer (clear in thumbnail sample) 

has message  "spare not the rod" mounted cutout, 

with reel and handle on the card front. 

Hold and turn the slice-form dimensional handle to reveal words ring. 

 Brad prong covers give a finished look to the card back

where the pocket can hold a note or gift card. 

(This post is under construction.

Please return soon to view

the completed tutorial.)

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main card base shape (bottom fold)

B card front build up shapes (4 to 5)

     (to allow lower layers of spinning mechanism to clear upper card front layers)

C box front with "TACKLE" accent panel

D box upper front with accent

E buckle

F "spare not the rod" words reel circle positioning template

G words cutouts

H clear carrier circle

I spinner brad shaft build up (6)

J spinner handle base

K handle foundation

L left & right dimensional handle shapes

M net frame and net

N fish layers and eye layers
Not shown: brad prong covers, large (1) and small (6)

2. Prepare the card front build up layers by carefully aligning and gluing together 4 or 5 shapes in a stack, taking care that punch holes and edges line up as exactly as possible.

3. Prepare the card base front/back by folding the lower portion (back) under.

4. Position the build up stack over the front of the card base, taking care to line up the upper and side edges, and hole punches. Glue the stack in place.

The stack should provide a "built up" area where the spinner words circle can rotate without interference from the overlapping card layers.

5. Prepare the tackle box front panels. Layer the lower accent panel over the corresponding portion of the box base panel, taking care to line up the hole punches, with panel offset inside the base panel edges as shown.

Layer the upper accent panel over the upper box base shape, with shaped "cutout" at upper right corner edges of each lined up, and other edges offset as for the lower portions.

6. Prepare the dimensional handle by folding on center perforation as "valley" folds. Bring the two shapes together so that left and right halves that jut away from the plane of the side halves line up. Glue these two halves together. This is a "slice form" arrangement, and will provide the finger hold for the spinner handle.

7. Glue the bottom of the dimensional handle assembly onto the flat handle shape, aligning edges.

8. Glue the underside of the handle assembly to the whole handle shape.

9. Prepare the reel housing by centering and gluing the circle with punch holes ring over the whole circle.

10. Note the slot cut that will accent the brad prongs later in the construction in both the reel housing and the handle hub. Orient the handle hub so that the slot cuts of both will line up.

Glue handle hub in place . . . 

. . . then while the glue is still a bit pliable, insert a blade tip into the slot to ensure that both layers line up as desired.

11. Prepare the words reel circle. Suggested method is to use a template of the words with circle shape, position the clear carrier circle over the top with center slot cuts lines up, then attach the words to the clear carrier in the positions indicated by the template.

(Use an appropriate adhesive to attach card stock words to clear acetate or vinyl circle.)

Here you can see the words attached to the clear carrier, with the template being separated away.

Discard the words template.

12. Prepare the shaft stack by gluing together the 6 "washer" shapes.

13. Attach the washer stack buildup on the top of the carrier circle, taking care to center the washer center opening over the slot cut.














14. Begin to assemble and attach the spinning mechanism. Push the accent brad prongs through the reel/handle housing.

Then place the reel housing assembly beneath, and insert the brad prongs through the slot cut of the carrier with words circle.

(PLEASE NOTE: the handle shown here is slightly covering the "the" word. It should actually be rotated 180 degrees so that it falls in front of the "spare" word. See the image in step 17.)

15. Slide the tackle box card front between the carrier and reel layers. This assembly is now prepared to attach to the built up card front.

16. Apply adhesive to the build up top surface . . .

. . .  then, in the same action , insert the brad prongs through the punch hole in the card base front, while positioning the box base shape over the build up shape. Adjust to make sure the tackle box and build up edges are lined up as precisely as possible, then apply pressure over all to attach where glue was applied.

Fold the brad prongs back on the backside of the card "upper" panel. NOTE: it may be helpful to not make the brad attachment as tight as possible to allow the mechanism to spin more easily.

17. Fold the bottom portion of the card back into its final position. Attach brads through side holes of front and back layers, and fold the prongs back on the backside.

18. Glue the buckle shape in place.

19. Position and glue brad prong covers over the brad prongs on the card's back side.

20. Assemble the net handle and netting base shapes.

Layer and assemble the fish:

bottom to top: whole base shape; tail half with whole fins; tail half with fin "stripes"; back body half; eye base (black) and eye (white).

Attach to the net assembly. Position and glue in place over the front of the card as shown.

21. Test to make sure the spinner works by holding the dimensional handle  and turning it counter-clockwise as shown in this series of three images.

22. (Image to follow)  Cut a message shape rectangle (max size approx. 5.625" x 4.25") that you can insert into the back pocket.

Fishing Tackle 3d Box Assembly Guide

Introducing a 3d fishing tackle box replica
that you will enjoy building and using as a gift box
or as a vignette display element.
Lid and base are built as separate boxes, then connected
with the side bar hinges with brad fasteners.
Front has a bracket latch, connected to the lid,
that fits over the latch nib that is built as a separate mini box
and attached to the base in a small window.

Box panels are decorated with offset accent shapes, 

including base bottom shape that includes a fish silhouette cut out. 

Final detail is the "great catch" letters cutout and layered tag. 

****CUT FILE CORRECTION NOTICE***
If you purchased and downloaded this cut file
from Silhouette America in the first few days of release
(May 22 - May 26, 2015)
you may find that the Lid top accent shape
does NOT include the handle punch holes.
To remedy this, you may:
A. re-download the corrected file on May 27 or thereafter
B. use a sharp point instrument such as an awl
to poke holes to match the Lid roof holes
once the accent shape has been attached.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A. box base with front, back, side overlays

B base side extensions

C box base bottom overlay

D box lid with overlays

E handle

F hinge bars

G latch bracket

H latch nib

I two-layered tag with words cutout

2. Prepare the box lid by bending all panels and tabs back on perforation lines. 

3. Center and attach top, front, back and side accent shapes as shown, taking care to align punch holes. Shapes are offset inside the panel boundaries by approx. .12 inches.

3. Prepare the box base in similar fashion, bending and attaching accent shapes as shown.

4. Prepare the two side attachment shapes by bending long and short pair tabs back.

Attach one to each side edge of box base shape by overlapping box straight "tab" edge over the side attachment tab to align at perforation line. Make sure that the side edges of the attachment and the box base all line up accurately.

5. Prepare the nib shape by bending back on all perforation lines, except  bend edge tabs outward.

6. Bend the non-tab straight edges of end panels to line up with the adjacent tab perf lines and attach, for all four corners, to create . . .

. . . a tiny open-top box as shown here.


Edge tabs should still bend outward.

7. Push the nib into place in the small window on the front upper portion of the box BASE. The nib has a slight slant, the taller end of which should be positioned at the top of the box opening. 

Glue the nib tabs in place on the inside of the box.

8. Fold the box base to bring the side edges in line with the tab perf lines of the back or front edges, respectively. Repeat for all four corners.

9. While the punch holes are still accessible at this point of the construction, position one of the hinge bars on each side, with one end hole lining up with box base hole punch.

Insert brad fastener and bend prongs back to secure on the inside of box base.

10. Fold the side extension to the inside of the box base and insert the small tabs into the corresponding slots on the bottom of box. (It may be helpful to use a tool such as a spatula, nail file, or weeding hook to assist with insertion.)

11. Bend the tabs toward the center of the box bottom and glue in place.

It may be helpful, after the initial grab of the tabs adhesive, to place the box bottom-down on flat surface and apply finger pressure from the inside in the area where the tabs are attaching.

12. Center and attach the box bottom accent shape (to conceal the tabs construction.)

Again, it will be helpful to place the box bottom-down on a flat surface and apply overall finger pressure from the inside of the box to secure the accent shape completely.

13. Prepare to fold the base box upper panel (includes finger-access cutout window) into position. Apply glue to face surface of front tab, and on top of the narrow side platforms created by the side extensions (see step 10). Insert the tab and secure the panel on all edges to be attached.

It will be helpful to insert fingers through the cutout window to apply pressure to the tab and panel surfaces to achieve accurate and secure seams.

14. Bend the LID panel front straight edges up to align with the side tab perf lines to form the box tray, and glue in place. (Repeat for all four corners.)

15. Prepare the handle shape by bending end tabs upward slightly, and adding curl between the end tabs.

Add curl by pulling the shape between fingers and thumb while applying pressure, in an arcing motion.

16. Position the handle on top of the LID with punch holes aligned precisely, and glue end tabs in place, then . . . 

. . . insert and secure brad fasteners in holes.

17. Bend the LID lower panel into position to prepare to insert tabs, apply adhesive to the face surfaces of tabs, then insert behind box tray edges and secure in place.

It will be helpful . . .

. . . to insert fingers through the cutout window to apply pressure to the tab and panel surfaces to achieve accurate and secure seams.

18.  Position the LID in relation to the BASE as shown to line up the remaining latch bar hole with the hole of the LID, then insert brad fastener to attach latch bar to LID.

Reach inside the lid through the finger access window to bend brad prongs back.

Repeat for both ends of lid.

19. Move the LID into position by carefully rotating it to the top of the BASE. (This is a snug attachment, so take it easy.)

20. With the LID and BASE stacked and aligned, position the latch bracket over the nib so that the "point" aims downward, nib is within the bottom of the window, as shown.

Then, without allowing the bracket shape to shift . . .

. . . apply adhesive under the top half only of the bracket. Apply pressure to attach the bracket top half to the front of the LID shape.

This will allow the bracket to slip off the nib to open the box, and then slip back over the nib to close it.

21. Prepare the tag by layering the smaller shape offset within the edge of the larger, with punch holes lined up. Glue the words cutout in place.

Attach to handle with twine or other tie of your choice.

Your Fishing Tackle Box is now complete!

If you wish, to assist the LID from falling too far

off the back as the tackle box is opened,

consider punching holes to attach brad fasteners pair 

in the back base panel

approx. 1" in from each side

and below the back edge of the LID when it is 

perpendicular to the BASE bottom

(approx. 1.125" up).