Needles 'n' Knowledge

Square box has engineered walls that create

a 1/4” thick rim, with matching shorter lid

which fits on by means of interior corner flanges.

Lid decoration is created by overlaying

the base square layers with vines base layer,

leaf and vines build up layer and contrast frame on top.

(Handle the delicate leaves layer with care.)

Lid rim is assembled, then overlay panel assembly

glued in placed underneath.

Box measures approx. 5x5x2.5 when closed.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A lid overlay base squares (3 for build up)

B lid overlay vine layer

C lid overlay leaf and vine layer

D lid overlay contrast frame

E lid side wall connected pair (2)

F base bottom

G base side wall front/back (2)

H base side wall side (2)

I base corner connector flange (4)

J & K lid/base accent shape strips (4 each;

see the NOTE in step 24 re: pattern matching)

L base underneath cover (conceals tab constr.)

M "weeded" interior square from D that

shows through as contrast vines

(for contrast otherwise, cut A top layer as contrast)

2. Prepare the overlay base build up by layering

and gluing the base squares together.

NOTE it will be helpful to use flat weight placed on top

of the layered shapes to keep them pressed during

drying to avoid warping or curling.

3. Layer the leaf and vines square on top of

the vines square, taking care to align precisely

the outer edges, and check also for edge alignment

of other interior vine edges, then glue layers together.

4. Position and attach the contrast frame square

on top of the previous overlay layers, taking care

to align the square outer edges precisely.

Press under a flat weight while liquid glue is drying.

5. If using the "weeded" frame square as contrast

behind the vines layer . . .

. . . position the square on the backside of

the layers assembly, with two of the corners

aligned exactly where the corner short vines' corner

is cut out, and attach in place.
Position and attach the decorative layers unit
on top of the built up base assembly from step 2.

6. Prepare the lid side wall/rim sections by folding

on the perforation lines as shown: bend all

lines back (mountain folds), except . . .

. . . bend the bottom

interior flanges forward (valley folds).

7. Prepare the upper fold sequence to form

the dimensional rim by rolling the narrow panels

under until . . .

. . . a square tube is formed as shown here.
Uncurl, apply glue to the face of the first panel,
then reposition and glue in place.

NOTE: it is important to make sure that the rim

dries in a perpendicular (90 degree) angle to

the side walls. It may be helpful to use a square cut

object such as this wood block to square up the rim

being glued until it is sufficiently dried.

Repeat the gluing of all four rim sections.

8. Position the two rim/side wall sections side by side

with straight edge of left to overlap tabs of right,

inserting the shorted upper tab into the rim tube,

and glue in place to secure the first side seam.

Allow the glue to securely cure/dry.

9. Carefully form the connected walls into a square,

allowing the straight ends of two of the side rim tubes

to fit into the miter shaped tubes to which they are

adjacent. Bring the final corner edges together

and repeat the process in step 8 to complete

the final side seam.

NOTE: if possible apply a dab of adhesive near

the end of the square ends that will be overlapped

by the miter ends to help secure them in place.

Here is the lid frame complete through this step.

10. Carefully flex the side walls outward so that . . .

. . . adhesive can be applied along the underside

of the rim tubes.

Insert the overlay assembly into the backside of

the lid assembly so that the front frame surface . . .

. . . is directly behind the rim.

Push the overlay fully into place to attach behind

the rim, then apply pressure from behind until secure.

NOTE: it may be helpful to invert the lid on a flat

surface, then use flat objects along the edges

that can support other heavier objects above

the side walls to apply steady pressure until dried.

11. Apply glue to the backside of the square-ended

corners pair of interior side wall flanges,

then bend them inward to attach to

the overlay assembly backside.

Take care that the rim bottom edge is perpendicular

to the outer side walls as this step is completed.

After the first pair are attached, repeat

for the other pair, wrapping the corners over

to create the miter seam edge.

12. Prepare the 'F' marked front and back base wall

panels by bending the bottom tabs forward,

and bending back on all other perforation lines.

13. Prepare the two side panels in similar manner,

also bending the interior wall side tabs forward,

and the exterior wall side flanges back.

14. Join the wall sections into paired assemblies

which include one front and one side wall:

working on the interior wall portion, insert tabs

into corresponding slots, then . . .

. . . bend the tabs outward and glue in place.

15. Position the first paired walls unit next to

the slotted base bottom panel, aligning the squared

rim end (indicated by pointing finger) along the 'F'

marked edge.

(This frame shows the 'F' marking cut;

NOTE that the square cutouts have been

removed in the final cut file.)

16. Insert the tabs into the corresponding slots

of one wall, then bend to position the second wall

to insert tabs into slots.

Apply glue, then bend the tabs toward
the center of the square
to glue in place to underside of base square.

NOTE that it will be helpful to place the assembly

base-side down on flat surface to allow finger pressure

to be applied along the wall seam until tabs are secure.

17. Repeat the process for the second wall assembly,

carefully inserting the bottom tabs into slots

one section at a time,

while at the same time inserting the side corner

tabs into slots. Apply glue to tabs,

bend into position, and attach all tabs in place.

18. Bend the 'F' walls back and around into
position, snug-ly tucking . . .

. . . the bottom flange around the base square,
and gluing in place. Apply pressure to keep
the square edge tucked into the flange/wall
angle, while also pressing along length of
flange to complete the attachment.
Repeat for the other 'F' panel.

19. Prepare to bend the final two walls into place

by first applying a dab of glue at the square ends

of the rim face as shown. Then . . .

. . . bend the wall into place, applying glue to

side and bottom flanges, then tucking the side

flange under, overlapping the wall and applying

pressure along all seams as described at end

of step 18.

NOTE: the final cut design has the exterior side wall

flange tab attached to the 'F' marked

front or back sections.

20. Apply adhesive (dry adhesive tape style

recommended) to the underside edges and center

of the bottom 'cover' square, then position it

on bottom of base and attach in place securely.

21. Prepare the corner attachment flanges by
bending forward along the vertical center perf line.

Also bend the top facing portion back, then . . .

. . . re-crease along center.

22. Test fit in the corner to determine the top
position of base wall, then apply glue to lower
portion that will attach to wall interior surface,
then re-position and hold in place until secure.
Repeat for all four corners.

23. Place the lid onto the base by fitting so that

the corner flanges slip inside the lid rim walls.

24. Prepare to attach the optional side accent panels

by ensuring that the pattern-matched pair are used

together on the corresponding walls of closed box.

NOTE: if the pattern match is important, be sure to

position the two shapes exactly next to each other

on the cutting mat, prior to sending it to the die cutter.

Position the base strip centered on the base wall,

with upper square edge aligned with top of box wall,

and narrow offset margin on side and bottom.

Position the lid strip in similar manner, with lower
straight edge aligned along lid rim edge,
centered side to side with offsets at sides and top.

Here is the completed box.

Back-to-school themed gift cartons can hold a treat

for educator or student.

Two sections join at side seams with

interlocking bottom panels for quick assembly.

Bend along diagonal side top panels for

the classic milk carton look.

Thread 1/2" or slightly narrower ribbon

through top shaped flange slots that

line up on front and back.

Choose from three assembled front

decorations that bend to align with

carton contour.

Each measures approx. 3” wide x 3” deep

x 5” tall when closed.

(This tutorial is under construction.

Please return soon to view

the completed assembly guide.)

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A and B carton shapes
Pencil decoration shapes:
C pencil base with D eraser & E carbon tip
F shaft shape, G band base and accent bars

2. Prepare each of the hull shapes by bending on

the perforations as shown, as "mountain" folds

for all except the diagonal roof folds,

and the top flange perforations, which

are folded as valley folds.

To fold the diagonal folds, it may be necessary

to turn the shape face down, and isolate

the diagonal folds away from the rest of hull.

3. Position and align the two hull shapes side by side

to overlap the straight side edge of one (on left here)

over the adjacent side tabs, adjust for top-to-bottom

alignment, then attach to join the side seam.

4. Form the hull into a box tube to repeat the side seam
alignment and overlapping, then join side seam #2.

NOTE that the hull can be flattened to allow

fingertip pressure to be applied along the length

of the side seam if desired.

5. Identify the tiny numbers cut into the bottom

flanges of the hull (shown here before the side

seams are joined). These will assist in the configuration

of the bottom interlocking arrangement.

A. Fold the front/back #1 flange under.

B. Fold the side #2 flanges in toward center.

C. Fold the #3 front/back flange under and . . .

. . . distend the flanges inward until . . .

. . . the #3 tab end clears the #1 slot edge,
then allow the flanges to re-adjust to be flat.

6. To prepare the top for closing, push the diagonal
side panels inward, then push the front/back flange
panels inward so that the flanges and slots
line up. Re-open to place contents inside,
then re-close and apply temp adhesive to
one flange to join them securely together.
Thread ribbon through slots.

7. For the Pencil decoration, bend the base
back slightly along the perforation as shown.
Attach the eraser and carbon tips shapes.

8. Attach the bands to the base, then position

between the perforation line and the bottom

of the eraser shape.

9. Position and attach the shaft shape below
the band shape, allowing the perforation to
continue to bend to match the angle of the carton.
10. Position over the bend of the carton, and attach.

Here is the completed pencil decoration version.

11. For the Apple decoration, prepare the leaf

and flesh half heart units by layering and attaching

the components as shown.

12. Bend the apple main shape and the slice shape

back slightly on the perforation lines.

13. Position and attach the main shape and slice
shapes by aligning the perforation lines,
while lining up the inner cut edge on the vertical
center line.
14. Position and attach the half heart accent shape.