Snowman Tea Cup Form

Imitation eight-sided vessel resembling 

a slightly-oversized cup includes thickened handle, 

contour “foot” and lower hull overlays that suggest 

a muffler scarf pulled up high under chin, 

a crooked smile with tiny heart cheeks. 

Use it as a treats container, or pair with 

“Snowman Top Hat Icicles Dome” 

separate design for a fun and unique Christmas 

or wintertime decoration. 

Tea cup form measures approx. 3.75” (plus 1.625” handle) wide 

x 3.75” long x 3.5” tall when fully assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

(not shown: handle tabs interior cover)

A tea cup hull sections 1-8 (marked with numbers)

B tea cup rim reinforcement ring

C face: eye dots, heart cheeks,

crooked smile; also eye sockets backing

D handle thickness test slot and strips

E handle front, back layers; interior layers

for built-up thickness (6-7 per strips test)

F base/foot top layer (to match muffler scarf)

G base foot layer #2 (conceals tabs)

H base solid octagons 4-5 for thickness

I front lower hull "muffler" overlay

J back lower hull "muffler" overlay

K tea cup hull interior bottom reinforcement

plug (4-5 for thickness)

L base/foot contour halves (to match muffler)

2. Begin by cutting and testing the handle layers

to determine the quantity of middle handle build up

layers that will be needed to match the spacing

between the front and back slots on hull section #4.

Stack front & back patterned layers with 5-6

interior "no tab" paper selection layers . . .

. . . and insert through the test slot. Add or subtract

middle layers until the stack fits moderately

snugly, allowing the tiniest extra space for glue.

Apply the determine quantity to what you cut:

1 patterned front, 1 patterned back,

the remainder as middle build-up.

3. Layer the interior shapes (those with NO tabs)

one by one and glue together into a stack,

taking care to align ALL cut edges as precisely

as possible. 

Immediately press under a heavy flat weight

such as this repurposed, muslin-covered

free weight bar. Press until stacked unit is

completely dry, several hours or overnight.

This will help minimize warping or curling

that results when using liquid adhesive.

4. Prepare the front and back handle layers by

bending forward the connector tabs.

Position each over the respective front or

back of the stack and glue in place, taking care

to align ALL cut edges precisely.

Press under flat weight until completely dry.

5. Layer the interior reinforcement plug for

tea cup stem one by one and glue together

into a stack, taking care to align ALL cut edges

as precisely as possible. Press until dried.

6. Prepare the tea cup base top layers by layering

the top face octagon (with slots) over the top

of the second layer (with tab cut outs), with ALL

outer and inner octagon edges aligned precisely.

Take special care that the slots each have "space"

from the tab cut outs behind them so that tabs

can easily fit through as designed.

Press under a heavy flat weight until dried.

7. Prepare the whole base octagon stack by

layering the whole shapes one by one,

taking care that ALL outer cut edges are aligned

precisely.

8. Prepare each of the 8 tea cup hull sections

by bending back on all perforation lines for

horizontal bends of panel, and for side tabs,

except the bottom "stem" segment should

bend forward. 

9. Position and attach the eye cut outs backing

strip on the backside of section #4 . . .

. . . centering it so that both cut outs 

are covered. Then . . .

. . . position and attach each eye circle cut out 

into sockets.

10. Identify all of the hull sections by locating

the tiny numeral cut into the top side tab flange.

It may be helpful to put the sections in order

before proceeding.

11. Position section #1 next to section #2

so that the middle segments align side by side.

Overlap the straight edge of #2 across

the corresponding tab to the perforation line,

adjust top to bottom alignment, then glue in place.

12. Bend the upper two segments to align,

overlap straight edge across adjacent flange tab,

adjust if necessary and glue this portion of seam.

13. Repeat the process working toward bottom

to align the third from top segments in the same

manner, then . . .

. . . the next to bottom segment in same manner.

For the bottom "stem" segments, the hull sections

will bend forward slightly, but are aligned,

adjusted and glued together in the same manner.

14. Repeat the process for hull section #3 . . .

. . . to position and align second from top

section first, then upper sections seam, etc.

Continue in the same manner to attach each

hull section in marked order 4-8.

15. Finally, flex the assembly to be able to

repeat the seam joining in the same manner.

16. Prepare the "muffler" overlay sections by

bending back on all perforations, except for

the bottom "just-above-stem" portion which 

bends forward. Identify the front segment by locating 

the lowest wavy curve. Take care at the narrow joints 

between the attached sections.

17. Position the "front" segment at the hull

section that includes eyes, aligning the bends

to hug the bottom three perforation angles

of hull, including the per forward angle of "stem".

Adjust so overlay section is centered so that

bends between sections align at 

hull section seams. Glue in place.

18. Move sideways to position, adjust and

attach the adjacent section, and then the remaining

two sections. NOTE that the edges of sections

may need to be overlapped and/or trimmed

a tiny bit.

19. Continue the process with the back overlay,

positioning it in the same manner, adjusting,

and attaching each of the sections in turn.

20. Prepare the 2 base contours by bending

back on ALL perforation lines for segments,

sections, tabs and supports.

Pay particular attention to the very narrow

wedge tabs near the bottom at each section

connection. Carefully bend back on perforations.

21. Bend the first seam area so that in the short

bottom segment straight edge overlaps the wedge

tab next to it to the perf marks, and join the seam.

Apply fingertip pressure until the seam is secure.

22. Repeat the wedge tab seam for all 3 locations

across both arcs.

23. Join the two halves by overlapping straight

edges of the 2 segments across the tabs to

perforation lines, one by one and 

completing the seams to form a dome.

24. Bend the support tabs inward all around.

25. Position the dome ring over the top layers

assembly of the tea cup base/foot so that

tabs align with base slots. Insert tabs into slots . . .

. . . work tabs fully through to back side.

Bend tabs toward center and attach in place,

within the tab recess cut outs.

NOTE that it may be helpful to use the spatula

tool inserted beneath the tab being joined to

provide a press-against surface.

26. Apply quick grab glue to the bottom of

the contour dome assembly, underside surface

of the base octagon that is there. Then position,

align edges and glue in place to the base

built up stack.

Apply fingertip pressure on the inside as well

as around the edges.

NOTE that it may be helpful to clip along the edges

with folio clips to assist with the joining.

Remove clips once the glue is thoroughly set.

27. Apply glue to the bottom edge and lower

portion of the tea cup "stem", then insert the hull

assembly into the opening of contour/base.

Push completely down into place so that

the stem bottom slots down into the octagonal

opening/recess of the base's top layers.

Hold in place until dry, or place a moderately

heavy object such as a book on top to help

push it down fully as it dries.

28. Apply glue to the bottom of the interior

reinforcement "plug", then insert it into

the tea cup assembly, and push down fully.

29. Position handle assembly so that the straight

edge is at top, and tabs can insert into slots

on hull section #4. 

On the inside of hull, bend the tabs outward,

apply glue and attach in place.

30. Prepare the cup rim reinforcement ring

by bending edge flanges upward.

Apply glue to the outward face of tabs.

Insert ring into the top of tea cup and gently

ease down into place so that . . .

. . . top edges of flanges are even with

the top edges of hull all around. Apply pressure

to each until they are fully attached. 

31. Locate the tiny perf marks near ends of

smile, and bend them back slightly.

Inward bends pair will help align the smile

shape over the vertical side perforations of

hull section #2, and outward perf cuts

will help align the smile with horizontal angles.

32. Apply glue to smile backside, then position it,

centered, over front of teacup hull, with bends

aligning as noted in Step 31. Press to attach

and hold in place until secure.

33. Position and attach the heart cheeks as shown.

34. Apply glue to the backside of the handle tabs

cover, then insert it into the cup to be positioned

to hide the tabs, with top cut edge snug up

against the reinforcement ring.

Here is the completed tea cup project.

Complete the Snowman Tea Cup project by

assembling the Snowman Top Hat design.

Snowman Top Hat Icicles Berry Balls

Stylized eight-sided top hat decoration includes 

a shaped hat band overlay that suggests pleating, 

icicles crown topper that forms an eight-section “dome”, 

slice-form berries with holly leaves, 

layered for thickness brim. 

Pair with “Snowman Tea Cup Form” separate design for 

a fun and unique Christmas or wintertime decoration 

or container (when attaching the crown-opening 

flange connectors). 

Top hat measures approx. 6.375” diam. brim x 

2.75” tall to top of crown dome 

(with 3.5” diam. octagon crown bottom opening).

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

(not shown: dome support strip ring; see Step 14)

A brim shapes (one to attach to crown assembly;

3-4 to stack and glue for brim thickness

B crown top interior octagon (with tiny notch for I.D.)

C crown top outer octagon

D crown sections (8)

E hat band strips front contour & back

F optional connector strips (for joining to tea cup)

G crown topper icicles dome

H slice form holly balls (12 circles ea. for 2 sets)

I holly leaf pairs (2 sets)

2. Prepare the brim stack by stacking and gluing

together all but 1 of the brim circles with octagonal

opening, taking care that ALL cut edges are aligned

as precisely as possible.

Immediately press the stack under a heavy flat weight

such as a thick book volume, with something else

heavy placed on top. Press until the stack is completely

dry, over night or at least several hours. This will help

minimize warping or curling that can occur when using

liquid adhesive.

3. Prepare the crown sections by bending back on

top and side flange tabs, bending forward on

middle cross perforation and at bottom flange tab.

4. Select 2 sections, align lower portions so that

the straight plain edge can overlap across 

the adjacent flange to the perforation line, adjust

for top to bottom alignment, then apply pressure until

secure. Then . . .

. . . bend the top of the seamline so that they overlap

in the same manner, adjust as necessary, and glue

the seam. Apply pressure until secure.

4. Continue in this same manner to join the remaining

6 sections together.

Form the assembly into a tube to align and join

the final seam to complete the crown.

6. Identify the two crown top octagon shapes:

the minutely-smaller one with the tiny notch at

edge will fit inside the crown. The other will be

attached on top as the exterior shape.

7. Bend crown top flanges up or out of the way

so that the interior octagon . . .

. . .can fit inside and within the flange tabs.

Re-bend the top flange tabs inward to perpendicular, 

and apply glue to the downward faces of all edge flanges.

Invert the assembly top down onto flat work surface,

push the octagon fully down to seam into the bends

of the crown flanges, then apply fingertip pressure

all around to each of the edges.

8. Position and attach the exterior octagon top,

taking care that outer edges are even with crown.

9. Bend flanges at bottom of crown straight so that

the single brim shape opening can be fit over them.

At the brim underside, re-bend each flange outward

and glue to the underside of brim.

 NOTE it will be helpful to invert the assembly

brim underside down on work surface so that

fingertip pressure can be applied all around to

each facet edge until all are secure.

10. Position the brim stack on the bottom of assembly,

adjust so that interior octagon edges align and

outer curve edge aligns as precisely as possible.

Glue in place.

NOTE some kind of pressing scheme should be devised

using flat object on hand to help flatten each facet

of brim to help stack layers join without

warping or curling. Toy blocks with something else on

top, small books, cans or squarish pantry packages, etc.

may be available for the purpose.

11. Prepare front and back hat band strips by bending

back slightly on vertical perforations.

12. Position the tallest portion of front band at selected

front facet of crown, adjust so that the perforations will

bend around crown snugly, with lower edge at

crown-to-brim seam line, and glue in place.

Continue bending the hat band sections into place

on each side of center and attach in place.

NOTE if band ends extend beyond the crown bend,

carefully trim excess - but complete a test of back

band positioning before trimming.

13. Position and attach hat band back strip

following the same process.

14. Prepare the dome support ring by bending back

at each section vertical perf line of strip. Also

bend the attachment tabs to perpendicular.

Form the strip into a ring to join the ends by

overlapping the straight edge across end tab

and gluing seam.

15. Center the ring on top of the crown octagon,

and glue tabs in place.

16. Prepare the icicles dome by bending back slightly

on each of the radiating perforation lines. Also bend

the icicles edges down.

17. Form the shape into a slight dome to overlap

straight edge to wedge tab perforation line,

and join seam.

18. Place the icicles shape over the top of the crown,

adjust so that icicles bends align with edge facets of

the crown. Apply glue to the undersides of each section,

then bend down to attach to crown faces and hold in

place until secure.

HOLLY DECORATION

19. Prepare the slice-form circles for one berry ball

by bending forward at center perforation on each

of the 12 shape.

20. Position the first two circles so that one half of

each will align back to back. Apply glue to one of

the halves, then join . . .

. . . so that perforations align like a "spine", and

cut edges align precisely. 

21. Continue in the same manner to stack, align and

glue remaining 10 shapes into the stack. Once all

are joined, place the stack under a heavy flat weight

to allow glue to completely dry.

22. Complete the second berry assembly, then place

both stacks under the weight.

(NOTE that the slice form will be "unfurled" once

the twine "stem" end can be attached at the spine

of each. See Step 16.)

23. Prepare the holly leaves by bending at the center

perf lines -- darker bottom larger leaves bend back

(shown here face down) and smaller top leaves

bend forward.

24. Cut an 18 inch length of natural thick twine,

cut in half, line up the two lengths and fold in half

to tie a simple knot near loop ends.

25. Each of the twine ends will attach to either

a leaf or a berry ball.

Position one bottom leaf as approx. 1/2" to 5/8" 

below knot on first twine end; trim end so that

it doesn't extend beyond leaf end. Glue twine in place.

Position upper leaf over lower, centered, with twine

end enclosed between the two. Apply pressure to

fully join the two layers. 

Repeat for the second leaf on the opposite outer

twine end, adjusting so that it is a bit further from

twine knot.

26. Flare open the first berry slice form so that

the twine can be enclosed in the center channel.

Position for length from knot, trim excess twine

so end is within channel. Add glue into channel

and also on only one of folded circles, then close

the ball form to join the final circle slices.

Apply pressure to the final slices until secure.

27. Attach the second ball in the same manner,

adjusting length positioning from know so that

it falls longer than the first. Refer to this picture

for creative guidance.

28. Determine positioning of the holly cluster decoration,

then artfully apply glue dabs "invisibly" to attach

twine loops to top of dome top, leaves and balls

to vertical sections.

Here is the sample hat completed.

OPTIONAL CONNECTOR TABS

(to help hat stay in place on Snowman Tea Cup)

29. If you are completing the Tea Cup with Hat ensemble,

prepare the 8 tabs by bending short top section back . . .

. . . and down and gluing in place.

30. Position one tab, centered, at each edge of

octagonal opening, with short tab touching the inside

face of the crown; adjust to ensure that shorter tab

cut edge is aligned at brim level; glue in place.

Repeat for remaining 7 tabs.

(The tab shown is being attached at front edge

toward top of opening.)

31. Position hat onto tea cup with flanges sliding . . .

. . .into place within tea cup rim.

Here is the completed Snowman Tea Cup ensemble.