Pumpkin 3D Wedges Box

This large harvest season project 

(for the experienced paper crafter) 

begins with a hexagon-based hull and lid. 

"Bump-out" wedges add more dimension 

with accent shape overlays for color. 

Dimensional stem (reinforced with optional 3/4" dowel 

stub inside) attaches securely through 

center opening in lid, with built-up layers 

adding thickness to tied-on leaves. 

Add other "found" decorations such as ribbon, 

curly raffia, bead-berry stems, etc. for a great

autumn or Halloween display.

Measures approx. 6.25" w x 7.25" l x 9.75" t with stem. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes.
(NOTE: for sample project shown here
which used the same orange textured card stock
for A-M shapes, 6 or more 12x12 sheets were needed.)
A main hull panels (3 double shapes)
B hull bump out wedge shape (6)
C interior reinforcement
D hull bottom   E hull bottom cover
F lid main shape (with top hexagon)
G lid side shapes (2 double shapes)
H lid depression ring  I lid depressing side/top
J lid bump out wedges (6)
K lid under-base   L lid friction flange
M lid under-base cover
N stem shape   O stem collar
P lid accent shapes (6)
Q hull accent shapes (6)
R small leaf (front, back, 6 build up)
S large leaf (front, back 6 build up)

2. Prepare the main hull shapes by bending back
on horizontal and vertical perforation lines,
and flange/tabs (see note that follows next frame)
except bend forward on top tabs, first upper 
horizontal perf line. 
ALSO, to NOT bend back the triangle rim section
end extension, which has a perforation MARK
and is NOT a tab.

When bending back side shaped flange/tab, 

take care at very narrow sections not to tear tab.

3. Position, align and join 3 main hull sections
at side flanges, overlapping straight edge
over adjacent flange to perforation line.

4. Form the hull into a tube to bring the final

long side and flange together to complete

the final side seam. NOTE that that the symmetrical

nature of this assembly . . .

. . . allows the tube to be flattened so that finger

pressure can be applied along the seam

for a good join.

5. Bring the lower segment edges together,

first the inner-most and then the bottom tiers,

to overlap straight edge to tab perforation line

to complete these shaping seams.

Repeat for all 6 segment seams.

6. Prepare the hull bump out (or wedge) shape

by bending back at horizontal perforation lines,

(except for top-most flange tabs)

and by bending forward at side tabs.

Very small side wedge shaping tabs should

be carefully bent back on their single or double

 perforation lines. This includes the bottom side

tab shown here, and . . .

. . . the lower mid side tab shown here.

7. Complete the side shaping of the wedge by bending

the shape to bring together and overlap the straight

edge to the tab's perf line, and hold until seam is secure.

8. Repeat the seaming process for the mid side tab.

9. Bend the top end and side edges to bring together

to form corner seam and join as shown.

Repeat the wedge assembly for all 6 wedges.

10. Position the wedge over one of the hull sections to

align and fit the side tabs and top tab into corresponding

slots.

NOTE that it may be helpful to use a blade tool

such as the spatula shown here to coax the

final tabs into slots.

11. Position the bottom tab over the bottom flange

of the hull section, with end-ward perf lines aligned,

and glue in place.

12. On the inside of hull assembly, bend back

ALL the inserted wedge tabs and glue in place.

On the outside at top, apply glue to 

the side top tabs, then bend into position along

the hull rim panel . . . 

. . . and apply pressure to secure in place.

13. Prepare the interior support wheel by

bending back all edge flanges.

14. Apply glue to the face surfaces of the

side flanges (not to center slot tabs) . . .

. . . then position the insert at hull opening . . .

. . . and ease downward into position to insert

pairs of center slot tabs into the lower set of

slots on each hull wall.

Work quickly to avoid premature attachment

of flanges to walls, until all tabs are inserted

and flanges square up and rest against hull walls.

Apply whatever pressure is possible to secure

flanges to hull walls (wedges interfere somewhat).

15. Prepare to complete the hull's rim assembly

by identifying the edge triangle 

"tab" perforation mark . . . 

. . . then apply a glue dot to each, before working

quickly . . .

. . . to apply glue to hull upper edge flange sections

(you may wish to do this one by one right

before bending section into place) . . .

. . . and bending to the inside of the hull to

slide tabs into upper set of slots.

As each rim section is bent into place

and attached, the rim edges should overlap

at the adjacent miter perf mark and

attach in place to previously-applied glue dot.

Apply finger pressure along inside flange section

to secure rim sections in place.

Repeat to bend in and attach all 6 sections.

At the final sections, it will be necessary to

"flex" the rim section to allow the last edge

miter tab to slip under the adjacent edge.

17. Prepare the hull accent overlay be bending

back along the horizontal perf lines.

Apply glue to back side, then position over

wedge, center and attach in place, lining up 

perf lines of each, top edges, etc.

Repeat for all 6 wedge accents.

18. At hull bottom, position and attach the

hull bottom shape, centered, over bottom tab sets,

working quickly and using openings to reach fingers/thumb 

to apply appropriate pressure along all edges.

19. Position and attach bottom cover.

20. Prepare the main lid shapes by bending back
on all section and tab perforation lines, except . . .

. . . NOT on the bottom flange end miter perf mark

which is a positioning guide mark, not a tab.

21. Bend the first upper side edge to overlap corresponding

tab on adjacent panel and attach to join seam.

22. Position next lid section to overlap lower

side straight edge to corresponding lower side flange

and attach for the first portion of this seam.

Then bend to bring upper seam straight edge

and corresponding tab together to complete

upper portion of seam.

23. Continue to complete lid shaping side seams,

attach final lid section, complete seams, etc.

until final side seams are completed.

24. Bend the lid top hexagon shape down

over the upper flange tabs, adjust position,

and attach in place, using finger opening at top

to reach in to apply appropriate pressure

to secure attachment all around.

25. On the underside of lid, bend flange tabs inward

and overlap (but don't glue at this point) short diagonal

edges to corresponding miter perf marks.

26. Prepare the lid stem depression shapes

by bending back on all perforation lines,

except for inward tabs of partial ring shape,

which should be bent forward.

27. Overlap the side trapezoid section edge of

the hexagon-attached panel at the corresponding

side tab of the partial ring section, and join.

28. Form the assembly into a ring to bring

the final side seam edge to overlap the side

tab of the hex-attached section, and join

to complete the seam.

29. Bend the hexagon "lid" downward

and attach in position with hex edges aligned at

lower tab perf lines . . .

. . . and apply finger pressure to secure edges.

30. Position the depression assembly on the inside

of the lid assembly with upper flange tabs

to attach to underside of top hex at opening . . .

. . . then reverse the lid to view from front

so that flange tab edges can be adjusted

to line up with edges.

Reach through opening or up from back

to manipulate and apply appropriate pressure

for seams.

Here is the lid with depression assembly in place.

31. Prepare the friction flange shapes by

bending back along the center perforation lines

and vertical division lines,

bending tabs outward.

32. Apply glue and fold backside 

edges together . . .

. . . then apply finger pressure all along

to attach, but keep tabs free.

33. Join the two flanges end to end by overlapping

straight end at corresponding tab perf line

of other strip. Then . . .

. . . form flange assembly into a ring, 

with narrower tabs to the inside,to complete

the opposite tab-to-edge seam.

34. Position the tension flange ring over the face

 side of the under lid shape, un-bend the tab pairs

so that they can be inserted together, 

then insert through corresponding slots.

On underside of under lid, bend the tabs

outward/inward . . .

. . . and glue in place.

Place the under lid assembly on flat surface

and apply pressure in the areas of tab

attachment, both inside ring and outside,

to securely attach tabs.

35. With lid bottom flanges bent inward,

position the under lid assembly, centered,

over the lid cavity, line up edges and flange

perf lines, and attach in place.

Insert finger tips into openings to apply

pressure to ensure a complete join along all edges.

NOTE that it will be helpful to use a blade tool

such as the spatula shown, inserted under the

edges being glued together to provide

a press-against surface to apply pressure,

especially at the corners where finger access

is more difficult.

36. Prepare the lid bump out (or wedge) sections

by bending back on all section and tab perf lines.

NOTE that similar to the hull wedges,

there are very narrow side wedge tabs

that need to be bent back, both near middle . . .

. . . and at bottom.

37. Bend wedge to bring straight edge to overlap

at tab perf marks to complete mid side seams . . .

. . . and bottom corner seams.

Once again, because of the tight angles of these

assemblies, it will be helpful to use spatula tool

to reach behind the bottom tab seam to help apply

appropriate finger pressure to secure these seams.

38. Apply glue to the face side of top tab . . .

. . . and to underside of bottom flange . . .

. . . then position wedge over a lid panel to insert

tabs into slots on sides . . .

. . . and at top, and to . . .

. . . overlap bottom flange tab along lid

assembly edge to attach in place.

Attach side and top tabs to inside of lid assembly.

39. Prepare the lid accent shapes by bending

back on perf lines.

Position over wedge, line up perf lines 

and bottom edge

center, and attach in place.

40. Prepare stem main shape by bending back

on all perf lines, tabs and flanges.

Prepare collar shape by bending back at

vertical perf lines, scallop bottom tabs outward.

41. Form the stem shape into a tube to

bring the straight edge of longest segment

to overlap the opposite tab perf line, and

glue in place.

NOTE that this may be most easily accomplished

with a 3/4" dowel placed inside the stem tube

to provide a press-against surface,

as is shown in the next cell.

42. Continue to overlap and complete the

seams for the remaining three segments.

43. Begin at hex "tip" end. Bend hex tabs back,

then bend hex back to insert tabs into end segment

tube, and glue in place . . . 

. . . reaching finger tip into

end segment tube to assist.

44. Bend the next segment's tabs inward,

bend the tip segment over the tabs . . .

. . . then reach inside to complete attachment

between segments.

45. Continue in the same fashion to attach the

third, and then the final long segments

to form the crooked stem.

46. Use stem dowel cutting guide to measure

and cut a length of 3/4" diameter dowel.

Add glue to tube inside, 

then insert into stem tube . . . 

. . . and plush dowel into place until bottom

surface is even with tab perf lines.

47. Bend bottom end tabs inward slightly . . .

. . . then insert into depression hex opening . . .

. . . through lid interior and out through

under lid hex opening.

Bend stem tabs outward and attach in place.

48. To assist lid dome to remain in proper position

(and not move up and down), apply glue to

collar and tabs undersides, then position

around base of stem, and attach in position

without depressing dome or pulling stem upward

(this will help lock in appropriate dome shaping).

49. To assist with the lid under cover, "open"

slice "slots" slightly using the tip of a spatula

or comparable tool.

Position the under lid cover within the tension flange

recess, and insert each of the 6 tabs into the

slice slots.

It may be helpful to use spatula to coax

tabs fully into slots.

50. Complete the pumpkin vessel by

placing the lid over the hull, with tension flange

inside the hull's upper rim.

NOTE that like the lid on a carved Jack O'Lantern,

this lid may fit better in a specific position.

Rotate to test which fit is best.

51. Layer the leaf fronts of both size leaves

one by one with the build up layers, taking care . . .

to align all edges as exactly as possible.

Complete the leaf by attaching the back layer.

NOTE it may be useful to use weights to press

the layering assembly flat while glue dries

to minimize warping.

52. Loop a length of twine or jute through

the leaf hole, then knot and attach around

the stem.

If desired, strategically glue the jute in position,

as well as touching surfaces of the leaves

and the lid.

Here is the completed pumpkin wedge box.

If desired, decorate the lid with raffia curls,

ribbon, artificial berry and ball stems, etc.