Pumpkin 3D Pleated Form

 

Pleated zigzags across the accordion-fold panel create
the dimensional shape that suggesting an autumn pumpkin.  

(Experience with pleated ornaments will be helpful to execute

this advanced design.)  String or soft twine is threaded 

through needle holes at ends to gather pleats into 

a cinched ring. Two leaf and tendril curls add accents, 

with dimensional stem stub’s narrow end tucked

and glued at form’s top depression. 

Measures approx. 4.375” tall (including stem) x 4.5” diameter. 

A NOTE ABOUT PAPER & PROCESS

The more-complex shaping of this pleated form with perforations

that will be redirected to be mountain AND valley folded

on the same line will create torque and tension that can easily

cause tearing  along tiny cuts. Gentle handling, experimentation 

with spreading of areas being direction-ally folded, 

and use of most flexible paper choice will help to minimize this. 

Below is one good heavier but NOT card stock 

commercially-available paper selection,

the one that was used in the sample project.

(Available from Hobby Lobby and other retail outlets.)

It is also possible to mend tear away with cello tape mini strips

on the backside of panels.

Finally, be patient and practice the folding technique to learn

how to support the vulnerable perf lines, and how to re-direct them.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A pleated panel (3)

B stem   C top stem cover

D & E leaf with swirl(s)

F bottom cover

2. Identify the top of the perforated panels by locating

the left side flange tabs that will be used to connect

the panels together eventually. A notch near the top

of the edge provides a sort of "arrow" to point to top.

3. On the opposite side edge from the flanges,

begin by folding the FIRST top-to-bottom long perforation line

as a "mountain" fold. Then . . . 

. . . continue alternating direction of folds ("valley"

then "mountain", etc.) across the full width of the panel.

4. Bend the short zigzag perforation lines across

the center, ALL as "mountain" bends . . .

. . . adjusting hand positioning as needed to allow

fingers/thumbs to reach into the center of panel

to complete the zigzag bends.

5. Repeat Step 4 process to bend the zigzag

perforations near the lower edge in the same manner . . .

. . . and near the upper edge as well.

6. Begin to shape the panel by working along the CENTER

zigzag perforations first. (Top of panel is toward right

in this photo.) 

A) The upper half of the first "mountain" fold

remains as originally folded. However, the lower half

fold will be re-directed to be a "valley" fold.

For this to occur, the halves will need to swing slightly down

and inward where the zigzag bends are, dictated

by the ANGLE of the diagonal perforation.

B) For the second long perforation, the same pattern

will be followed, allowing the right (upper) half maintains

the "valley" original fold direction, while the left half

will be re-directed to be a "mountain" fold.

C) As this sequence proceeds, gather, compress and stack

fan folds as fingers re-direct bends while assisting formation

by swinging sides down and slightly inward . . .

. . . until this is accomplished across the whole width.

7. Spread the folds to be mostly stretched, then work the shaping

along bottom zigzag, taking care to support and

minimize the TORQUE of the back-and-forth bends: 

A) along the straight perforation lines at bottom end,

the fold direction will be re-directed as was done for

center zigzags - opposite what remains as part

of the 'extended' straight perforation line next to it; 

end tips will swing down and inward in similar manner 

as was done in Step 6; 

B) Fan-fold and gather and compress the folds . . .

. . . allowing the panel to remain flat/spread as long as needed

as the lines are "popped" down to redirect without

much torque which may cause perforations to tear.

8. Repeat Step 7 to shape the top along the zigzag.

9. Complete the pleating and shaping of all 3 panels.

10. Flatten out the panels, then align the straight side

edge to overlap the opposite flange tabs of second panel,

adjust to align segments of the edges to glue first seam.

Once secure, re-adjust and firmly re-press along the

pleat folds adjacent to the seam - this will help the seams

to be less visible and more like ALL other pleats in final form.

11. Repeat to complete second side seam in similar manner.

12. Form the assembly into a large tube to align,

adjust and glue the final side seam.

13. Prepare a 36-40" length of lacing cord

(for the sample, I used no.5 pearl cotton yard),

then thread a darning or tapestry needle with the finest

eye possible that will accept the cord and still fit

through the cut holes of panels.

Fold back a couple of inches at non-needle end to

tie a 'stop' knot as shown.

14. Begin anywhere, inserting the needle on one LOW

angled end edge through first hole punch, across

on backside, then through adjacent hole. Pull yarn/cord through

to complete the first 'stitch'.

15. Continue to 'stitch' around the perimeter in

the same manner, gathering the pleats onto the cord . . .

. . . until the circuit has been completed, compressing

the form as the stitching proceeds as may be comfortable.

When pulled in to near-final cinching, the cord length can be

CUT near where the halfway point would have been

to allow the remaining cord to stay threaded through needle

for the pass along the punch holes of the other end.

Tie the ends in single overhand style knot, then . . .

. . . continue to ease pleats inward to tightest position,

then hold in place to preserve this form while tying

the second overhand knot to form a secure granny

or square knot.

Trim ends to a couple of inches long, then tuck them

down into the remaining 'opening' tube.

16. Repeat Step 15 for the remaining edge to knot end,

stitch to gather pleats onto cord, cinch up, and tie off and tuck.

17. Prepare the stubby stem by bending back on

all perforation lines for top and bottom attached hexagon

'caps', panel edges, side seam tab and end wedge tabs.

18. Form the shape into a tube to bring straight side edge

to overlap opposite tab to perforation line and glue seam.

This may most easily accomplished by inserting a pencil

or rod-like tool into tube and under seam to provide

a press-against surface. Or . . .

. . . the symmetry of this shape will allow it to be

flattened at this stage of assembly to press along seam.

19. re-shape back into tube form, if necessary, then

bend end tabs in (shown is top of stem - complete

bottom smaller end first, to allow a pencil end to be

inserted through large end's hex opening to assist

with gluing 'cap' down there).

20. Apply glue to tabs, then bend 'cap' down into place,

square up to tube wall edges, and apply pressure

until dry and secure.

Complete both narrow bottom and wider top flaps this way.

21. Position and attach the plain hexagon 'cover'

onto the top of the stub to conceal the opening.

22. As desired, add some 'embossed' detail to the leaves

by free-hand scoring a center (and side) vein with

a rounded semi-sharp tool such as this stylus.

23. Add curl to the leaf tips . . .

. . . and tendril curls, then . . .

. . . add a little bend at the scored vein near tip.

24. Position and secure the stem ends by adding a dab

of adhesive, then inserting down into the depression at

the top of the pleated form.

25. Position and attach the narrow end of the stem form

down into the depression at top of hold, concealing

leaf stem ends. Use quick-grab glue such as Fabri-Tack

or hot melt glue, then hold the stem in its most-vertical

position until secure.

26. At bottom of form, position and attach the scallop

circle 'cover' into the depression to conceal the opening.

NOTE: bend the scallop edges forward a little first.

Here is the completed pumpkin.