This 3D model is intended to replicate
an ancient hand-held clay oil lamp.
Perhaps you will use it as a teaching tool to recount
the New Testament Parable of the Ten Virgins.
Assemble parts for
lower “bowl”, upper dome,
wick spout and curved handle, with
layered-for-thickness
lower “foot” and upper round rim. The vessel top opening
is sized to optionally hold a standard 1.5” diam. base
LED tea light inside a
tube insert.
Glyphic low-relief decorations on hull dome
suggest hand inscribed
decoration.
When fully assembled, model measures
approx. 5.875” front to back x
4” wide x
1.875” tall (at handle top).
(Recommended for crafters with some
dimensional project experience.)
Stock material note: this project uses
Encore textured cardstock in gingerbread,
which can be procured from 12x12cardstock.com.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
1 right dome 2 left dome
3 top opening "rim" rings (3 to stack for thickness)
4 bowl "floor" oval octagon with center dash guideline
5 right bowl wall segments (8 unique with numbers
and with tiny notches cut in top tab edges)
6 left bowl wall segments (8 unique with numbers)
7 bowl base oval octagons (3-4 to stack for thickness)
8 "foot" rim oval octagon rings (3-4 to stack)
9* left scribe design underlays (shown with dbl
scroll design layers plus solid backer - 6 sets)
10* right scribe design underlays (shown with dbl
scroll design layers plus solid backer - 6 sets)
(*see Step 14 for explanation of scroll scribe depth)
12 & 13 opt. edge rim strips (8 unique position shapes
for left and right; right has 'R' symbol) kept
within their organization rectangle until needed
14 spout upper panel 15 spout lower panel
16 handle panel
If planned, these are the LED tea light insert
shapes to identify and cut:
17 insert tube strip with bottom edge multi tabs
18 circle for bottom of tube
19 platform strip with top & bottom edge
multi tabs
20 bottom "ring" panel to allow fingertip access
21 platform upper circle panel
22 LED tea light cover with hole for "flame"
2. Locate the top/bottom center dash mark on
each of the top opening rings, then carefully stack all
together and glue with top layer face up so
that the center marks are clearly visible.
Take care that ALL cut edges are as precisely
aligned as possible.
Immediately press the glued-up stack under a flat
heavy object such as this fabric-covered re-purposed
bar from a weight machine, a thick book or equivalent
and leave in place until thoroughly dried, one or more
hours or overnight. Pressing will help minimize
warping or curling of glued stacked shapes when
using liquid adhesive.
(Repeat the pressing process for each of the following
glued-up stacks.)
as precisely aligned as possible, and glue together.
Press and allow to thoroughly dry,
4. Identify the bottom panel with the center dashed
guide line (NOT a perforation line!) and set aside.
then press and allow to dry.
5. Place the "foot" ring over the front face of
the stacked bottom panels with all outer edges
aligned as precisely as possible and glue together.
Press and allow to dry.
BOWL ASSEMBLY
6. Beginning with the left side of the bowl and
the 8 left* wall segments, prepare each by
bending back on all perforations for wall portions
and tags. Identify the tiny number
symbols cut into the top tabs - then select #1.
(* the right wall segments have a tiny notch cut at top)
7. Apply glue to the bottom (narrow end) tab, then
position and attach it behind the first straight edge
segment of bottom "floor" octagon panel, on
the right top half next to the dash center guide line.
Take care at each step to align shape edges exactly at
corresponding perf lines of attaching shape so that
the bowl will be the accurate finished size for
assembly which follows.
8. Locate #2 wall segment, then add glue to bottom
tab, position it next to segment #1 and under panel,
adjust for accuracy, then attach in place.
9. Add glue to the edge tabs of #1 segment, then
bend #2 edges into position, one at a time, to position
and attach in place, creating the bowl shape.
10. Continue in the same manner to locate wall
segments in order 3-8, position and attach bottom tabs,
then bend into position and attach to previous segment . . .
. . . until the final left segment is placed.
NOTE that it completes the half and is next
to the opposite center dash guide mark from
where the walls attachment began.
segments, beginning with #1 segment which will begin
next to left #1 to form the spout wall shaping.
When the final segment is placed, the bottom tab
will be positioned and attached to the "floor" panel
in the usual way, but both of the side edges
will overlap and be glued to tabs to neighbor panels.
12. Position the bottom "base and foot" assembly
on the bottom of the bowl with the center top and
bottom angles aligned with the "floor" panel
as precisely as possible. Invert the assembly with
base downward on flat surface and place something
that matches the inside "floor" area shape plus is
taller than walls inside the bowl, with something
like a heavy book on top to weight and press
the bottom to ensure a thorough and non-warped
joining. Consider using quick-grab, (alcohol based)
adhesive that will characteristically warp less.
Allow glue to sufficiently dry.
DOME ASSEMBLY
13. Identify the right and left dome shapes by locating
the tiny circle cut outs near front (spout) end at
upper tabs. Single hole is left side; double is right.
at each wall segment and at top opening edge
curved perf lines. Bend end tabs back also.
for highest degree of depth, stack 2 scroll underlays
plus solid panel; for lowest depth, use only solid panel.
15. Stack and glue together scroll underlays.
NOTE that the final dome cut file omits the scroll
cut out design in the center back panels where they
would be obscured by the handle.
16. On the backside of first dome half panel,position scroll stack so that design cut edges
align with dome cut design as precisely as possible
and attach.
17. Position and attach solid panel on top of
scroll stack.
17. Continue to prepare scroll underlay stacks,
position in each dome segment, and attach plain
panels in similar manner. Make sure that scroll
underlay side edges do not interfere with the slight
bending of the dome.
18. Repeat Steps 14-17 for the other dome half.
20. Begin attaching the left dome shape at the front
segments. Apply glue to first bowl tab, then
position dome tab to overlap and align exactly
at the bowl tab perforation line. Apply fingertip
pressure until secure.
21. Bend the dome shape to position, align and
attach the next segment to corresponding bowl
segment tab.
22. Continue in the same manner to work along
the edges and tabs until all 8 of left half are attached.
23. Position the center back tab of second dome half . .
. . . then proceed to attach dome to bowl segment
tabs around second half until dome and bowl
are completely joined.
24. Position, adjust and attach the tab seam
at center front of dome.
25. Position the top opening ring stack over the top
tabs of dome, adjust so that center front and center back
dash guide marks are at front and back center seams,
and attach in place. NOTE that quick-grab glue is
recommended here if available.
LAMP EDGE ACCENTS
26. Dress up the outer lamp edges with wrap-over
narrow strips if desired. There are 8 unique position shapes
for left and right halves and segments.
NOTE that right set has 'R' symbol. Keep the strips
within their organization rectangle until needed for
easier identification.
Begin with the right set, and locate #2 (numbers
are cut into the carrier rectangle). Remove from carrier
and carefully bend back at the perforation.
Apply adhesive to backside of strip, then position it
to wrap around the joint of the right half's #2 segment
edge, next to the spout shaping. (The #1 segment position
is omitted because of the spout placement.)
27. Continue in the same manner to dislodge #3 strip,
bend, then position and attach at corresponding
segment edges through #8 on right half, and
all of strips for left half segments.
SPOUT AND HANDLE ASSEMBLY
28. Prepare the upper and lower spout shapes
by bending back on all perforation lines for tabs
and panels. NOTE that these shapes are laid
out here to simulate how the tips will join.
29. Position the angled edges together for the first
"side" seam where split tabs will allow for the slight
bend of the upper shape. Adjust and attach this seam
and allow to dry until secured.
30. Form the spout into a cone to align the second
side seam, overlap straight edge to opposite
perforation line, adjust and join. NOTE that
the narrowness of the form may require the insertion
of a press-against tool such as the handle of
a spatula or weeding tool to reach into the top.
31. At tip, bend the tiny triangle tabs inward then
apply glue to these. Next . . .
. . . bend the end panel down into place, adjust
as needed, then apply fingertip pressure until secure.
Set aside until final assembly steps.
32. Prepare the handle shape by bending back
on all perforation lines for panels and tabs.
33. Begin assembly at top back by applying dabs of
glue to the two small tabs at the inward angle, then . . .
. . . apply glue to the first ridge tab.
Bend the shape to bring together the plain long
edge to overlap the long tab opposite, while also
directing the small tabs under the edge edges.
Secure the seam as quickly as possible, then . . .
. . . adjust and apply pressure to secure the small
end tabs.
34. Repeat Step 33 for the second ridge seam.
35. At the forward end, apply glue to the three tabs
of the end panel, then slide it into place at the handle
end so that each angle and corresponding edge
align as precisely and neatly as possible.
This is how the end panel should appear
when the seams are complete.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
36. Prepare to attach the spout by bending the side
tabs back/under.
Apply glue next to ring rim edge, and
to these tabs, then . . .
. . . position over the top of the lamp assembly so
fold edges line up at the first segment seams.
Make sure that the "rim" end triangle tab is tucked
under and edge can attach where glue was applied
near ring. Hold in place until joining is secure.
37. Apply glue to underneath tabs, then bend back
into position and apply fingertip pressure until
each is secure. NOTE that the lower edge of spout
should abut at or near "foot" ring.
38. Position handle to insert inward end tabs into
hull slots and fully push inside. Apply glue to sideward
surfaces of tabs (this is a bit tricky), then reach inside
to bend tabs away from center and hold in place
to attach under back segments.
39. At lower back, apply glue to the swing-away panels,
then adjust so they align at center bowl seam,
and hold in place until secure.
The simpler version of the lamp is now complete.
For authentic look, consider obtaining a short length
of cotton wicking and inserting it into the spout hole.
(This is the more correct way that an oil lamp functioned.)
LED TEA LIGHT ADAPTATION
40. Identify the tube insert's "floor" circle by
the tiny notch cut into the edge.
41. NOTE that the side tab of the strip DOES NOT get bent
back as a more normal tab would have.
DO NOT BEND BACK.
Use a narrow dowel or similar rod-like tool to
add a moderate amount of back curl to the insert strip.
Bend the tiny tabs back.
42. Form the strip into a tube to overlap the straight end
edge to the guide line dash cuts, adjust top to bottom
and join the seam.
43. Apply glue either to the backside of each of
the tiny tabs (preferred) or . . .
. . . to the equivalent margin along the edge of
the floor circle back side. Then . . .
. . . insert the floor circle into the top opening of
the insert tube and . . .
. . . press completely down to rest against the bent
tabs. Apply fingertip pressure around and around
the bottom until all of the tiny tabs are secured.
44. In a similar manner, prepare the platform insert
(which will hold the LED tea light up into position)
following Steps 42-43, with the exception that
platform includes tiny tabs along both long edges.
Apply glue to tabs or ring, then insert and secure
as for insert tube.
45. With platform top edge tiny tabs up in "open"
position, insert the whole platform top circle inside,
appl glue to backside of tabs, bend tabs toward center.
Invert the platform with whole side downward
on work surface. Insert fingertip(s) through ring opening
to apply pressure all around to secure whole circle seam.
46. Insert the platform into the insert tube (this is
a tight fit) as shown, and push fully down.
47. Place the cover ring over top of tea light, and
insert into tube . . .
. . . and push fully down to rest on top of platform.
48. Place the LED insert tube assembly into
the center opening of the lamp and push fully down.
Remove tea light only as needed to activate flame light.
Here is the completed lamp with tea light.
