Showing posts with label calendar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label calendar. Show all posts

Saturday, November 30, 2019

December 3D Calendar Flip Tiles

Tent-style base with overlaid grilles presents 
a seasonal display to count down the days 
until Christmas. Layered tiles have stencil number cut outs 
for ‘tens’ and ‘ones’ to show either how many days are left, 
or alternatively the December date. 
Holly and sprig side decoration adds a seasonal flare. 
Re-configure as a regular desk-style calendar 
by adding a ‘3’ to the ‘tens’ tiles stack. 
Measures approx. 7.25” wide x 6.25” tall 
x 3” deep when fully assembled. 

ASSEMBLY:  1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main tent frame front & back
B main tent frame bottom 'solid' panel
C bottom panel reinforcements (3-4) for build up
D triangle tent interior reinforcement/ring support
E rings end support reinforcement panels (2 sets of 3)
F rings: 4 pair front/back; *4 sets (7-8) each interior
G slot test and strips (9) for test layering
H grilles for front (1) and back (1)
I grill/tent headers for front and back
J 'tens' number tiles (front, contr. middle, back)
K 'ones' number tiles layers
*see step 2 for explanation about determining quantity
If including the greenery embellishment,
also cut the shapes for that, as shown
here including the sprig two-part base.
2. Complete a test using the strips and test slot:
stack the strips on top of each other, and glue together,
stacking 7, then testing, and adding additional strips
one by one until the best thickness is achieved.
Part of the testing process includes using the test slot
shape shown here, taking care that the arrow remains
horizontal (pointing side to side), then . . .
. . . inserting the strips through the opening
(which represents the ring reinforcements openings)
to see how many layers are required for a snug
but moveable stack. NOTE that the strip stack
has the cut edges at top and bottom, with top
nearest the side-to-side arrow.
When the right stack quantity is determined,
translate that into the number of layers required
for each ring assembly. EXAMPLE: if 9 layers works,
that would mean 1 for front, 7 for interior, 1 for back
to equal the 9 layers. Remember, there are 4 ring units.
(See Step 4 for the rings layering assembly.)
3. Layer each of the 'tens' and 'ones' tiles as shown,
positioning and attaching the contrast 'show-thru'
layer under/behind the front tile stencil (slightly
offset smaller outer edges) . . .
. . .with hole punches aligned,
and then . . .
. . . positioning and attaching the back tile,
taking care to align all cut edges as precisely
as possible.
NOTE that it is advisable to use a flat weight
such as this repurposed weight machine bar
(fabric covered) placed on top of the glued-up stack
to help keep it flat, avoid warping or curling,
during the drying process. Leave under weight
for several hours until the shape is completely dried.
4. Layer the (4) ring units by stacking the interior
ring shapes (with blunt-cut ends) on top of each other,
one by one, taking care to align all cut edges as
precisely as possible. Press under flat weights
until completely dried.
5. For the front and back ring layers, bend forward
the tiny tabs at ends, then . . .
. . . layer and attach on the front and back of
the stack, taking care to align edges as previously.
Press under flat weight until dried as before.
6. Layer and attach the bottom panel reinforcement
shapes, taking care to align outer edges.
Press under a flat weight until fully dried.
7. Layer the ring reinforcement shapes into two
stacks of three shapes each, taking care to align
outer edges - and especially the openings.
NOTE OF EXPLANATION: these holes are intended,
along with the tent triangle reinforcement shape,
to anchor the ends of the rings. The depth of the opening
helps to hold the rings once glued in place in position,
to withstand the tile-flipping actions. Hole alignment
is critical to be able to insert ring ends in.
8. Prepare the main tent frame by bending back on
all the perforation lines for the center top bend,
as well as the side flanges.
9. Prepare the main tent bottom panel by bending
back the long (attachment) tabs and the short end
edge flanges. (NOTE this image shows the panel
from the backside.)
10. Position and attach the front bottom main tent
shape to the bottom panel by overlapping the straight
edge to the tab's perforation line, adjusting ends
for alignment. Press the seam under a weight until dry.
11. Bend the side edge flanges back and glue
in place on both edges of tent assembly, including
the bottom panel. Press under flat weight if possible.
12. Position and attach the bottom panel stack
reinforcement centered on the bottom panel outer
surface as shown, within the perforation lines.
Press under a flat weight until dry.
13. Position each grille, front and back, over
the respective portion of the main tent assembly,
aligning the ring openings, and squaring up
with the frame, and glue in place at header area
or edges of grille. Press under a flat weight
if possible.
14. Position and attach each front or back header strip
over the top portion of the grille/main tent frame,
aligning the circle openings. Press flat if possible
during the drying process.
15. Form the main tent frame assembly into
a triangular tube to align and complete the bottom
back seam as for the front bottom seam done previously.
16. Prepare the triangular tent reinforcement shape
by bending back on all perforation lines for panels
and end tabs.
17. Bend the panels into position to align 
with the triangular end piece and complete the seams.
18. Position the ring opening reinforcement shapes
behind/under the front and back panels of
the reinforcement shape, taking care that all ring
openings line up precisely, and glue in place.
19. Apply glue to the reinforcement panels, then
insert under the main tent assembly top angle,
slide upward to tightly fit, then . . .
. . . apply pressure all along to assist attachment
on all touching edges. NOTE: it may be helpful
to use quick-grab adhesive such as Fabri-Tack.
20. Arrange the tiles into the 'tens' stack (1 & 2)
and the 'ones' stack (0-9) in advance of 
loading onto rings.
21. Position the 'tens' tiles onto the first ring, then . . .
. . . then flex slightly to slide the ring into position
over the tent ridge to the farthest-left position . . .

. . .then adjust to insert ends through the reinforcement
openings on one side, then the other.
On the underside, use a tool such as this spatula
to reach inside to bend the end tabs back to attach
to the reinforcement surfaces. Do this for each ring end.
22. Repeat the ring positioning and attachment
for the second ring on the 'tens' stack. 
23. Repeat for the rings positioning and attachment
for the 'ones' stack.
24. If completing the greenery accent,
assembly it as follows: 
A) Position and attach the bottom needles sprig
over the two-sprig base.
B) Position and attach the left side sprig
with the circle end over the base sprigs.
C) Layer the vein shapes over the centers
of the holly leaves and attach.
D) Position and attach the holly leaves
with circle ends overlapping the base
assembly, arranging on angles as shown.
E) Add one berry over the circle end position,
then position and attach the other two below
(see the next screen for suggested positions).
25. Position and attach the sprig over the left side
of the tent where it will not interfere with
the tiles flipping function.

To change the number or date, carefully lift and
flip from back "resting" position over the tent top
to the front, as shown here changing from December
24th to 25th. When there is no 'tens' number being
displayed, both of these tiles rest backside-up on tent back.
Here is the completed desk count down display.


Monday, May 15, 2017

Calendar Blocks with Display Tray

Pair of card stock blocks each hold "face plate" stencils 
for all of the numbers required to rotate
to count off 1 thru 31 
for all the months of the year. 
Trio of one-inch logs holds welded word-cuts 
for the twelve months on which the blocks sit 
with "today's" date facing forward. 
Custom display tray has side and back walls,
with a wedge angled platform.
Measures approx. 7.5" wide x 4" deep x 5" tall. 
Interior construction ensures that this perpetual calendar will last. 
(Blocks with logs, and display tray available
in separate files.)

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A block main body (2) 
B main body add-on panel (2)
C & D (see the next frame)
E number face plates - 12 total: 
1 & 2 (two ea.); 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 0 & blank
F contrast number liners (11)
G log body (3)   H log int. reinforcements (6)
I log face plates   J month welded word cuts
Block interior support struts will be inserted
into the block hull to prevent side collapse
in "all" directions" and provide stability.
Shown here: struts for ONE block box.
Cutting requirements for calendar blocks PAIR:
C block interior diagonal support struts (4)
D block interior cross struts (8)
K stand upper body (walls wrap, base)
L stand add-on side wall
M & N accent shapes
O optional base build up (3 or more)
P wedge platform
Q platform support struts 1-4
2. Prepare the block body main and add-on shapes
by bending back on all panel edge perforation lines
and flange tab lines.
3. Position and attach the add on shape to main
by overlapping one straight end edge over
one flange tab to perforation, adjusting to ensure
top-to-bottom alignment, then gluing in place.
4. Attach contrast liner behind each of the number
face plates (liner has slight offset smaller).
5. Position and attach the numbers centered 
on the main block panels.
BLOCK 1: 1-5 plus "blank"
BLOCK 2: 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 0
6. Form the block panel into cube shape by
bending adjacent plain edge to overlap
neighboring flange tab perforation line,
and gluing side seam securely.
Repeat for three more side seams.
NOTE: top remains open at this stage.
7. FOR ONE BLOCK:
Prepare 4 interior support struts by bending
the inner edge flange tab back on all cross struts.
Arrange diagonal struts so that 
the slot of one reaches UP, and for the other,
the slot reaches DOWN.
8. For UP strut: position a cross strut along 
the side of the slot with upper and lower edges 
even, and glue flange tab in place.
9. Repeat the attachment of cross strut on
the opposite side of the same diagonal strut,
making sure that they are attached on
opposite sides of the slot opening.
10. Repeat the prep process for the DOWN strut,
noting that the attachment tabs are all on same end.
11. Flatten each diagonal strut assembly to allow
the DOWN and UP slots to fit together as shown,
then slide the two halves together until top and
bottom edges are even.
Open and arrange all the strut "arms" into
intended positions (four diagonal arms with
four shorter cross arms with tabs on same end.
12. With tab ends DOWN, insert the struts 
assembly into the box interior, and push . . . 
. . . fully in to sit snugly against the box bottom,
adjusting diagonal arms into corners.
Square up the cross struts to be perpendicular
to the box sides, and glue tabs in place
to wall backsides.
13. Bend "lid" wall flange tabs inward, then
bend into closed position, tucking tabs
inside the wall edges, between the strut ends,
and glue in place.
Apply pressure along the wall edges
to ensure that the flange tabs attach securely.
14. Repeat steps 6 thru 13 for the second block.
15. Prepare the log box shape by bending
back on all panel, tab and flange perforation lines.
16. Prepare the face plates by centering
and attaching the month word cuts, then
position face plates within the long rectangular
panels of the shape.
(OR, simply position and attach the month names
onto the log body itself.)
16. Form the shape into tube form,
with straight long edge overlapping
opposite tab flange to perforation line,
and glue in place . . . 
. . . NOTING that it is possible to flatten
this shape in order to apply pressure along
the seam to attach securely.
Open back into tube form
17. Prepare the interior support shapes
by bending side tabs forward.
A pair of these supports is used for each log box.
18. Position a support shape at the end opening
of log, and ease it into the log's interior . . . 
. . . gently pushing it inward until the panel
is approximately 1.5" back from the opening edges,
and glue in place.
Repeat for the opposite end of the log.
(Support ends help the logs remain "squared up"
and provide support against collapsing.)
19. Bend the end side tabs inward, then
bend the "lid" into position, tucking its end tab
inside the log end, and glue in place.
20. Repeat steps 15-19 for two more logs.
DISPLAY STAND ASSEMBLY
21. Prepare the platform shape by bending
back on all panel, tab and tab flange perf lines.
22. Form the bottom (wider portion) of the shape
into a tray by bending adjacent sides upward
(and slightly inward for front wedge angled walls)
to overlap straight edge over the adjacent
tab, and glue in place.
Repeat for all four corner side seams.
NOTE: it may be helpful for the angled front seams
to use a flat press-against tool such as a spatula
inserted into the narrow space behind the seam
to apply pressure to ensure good connection.
23. Identify the platform support struts by
the numbers cut into each one.
Bend #2 ends slightly forward, then . . .
Position and attach the ends to the ends of #1
(bend #1 at the middle perf line) to form
a triangle, taking care to line up cut edges 
and slot edges.
Bend #3 and #4 at the middle perforation line.
Position #3 at the left side of the triangle, with
number cut end toward the non-pointed FRONT end,
slots upward, and slide the slots together
until sides of all are even.
Repeat for #4 on opposite side.
This is how the completed support strut unit
should appear when fully assembled.
24. Position the strut unit inside the tray,
centered with tabs downward, then . . . 
. . . glue the tabs in place to the backside of base
to keep it from shifting.
25. Bend the front and side flanges inward,
bend "lid" into position, adjust so that
lid edges square up to flange perf lines,
and glue in place.
26. Prepare the upper walls shape and add-on
shape by bending back on all panel and flange tab
perforation lines.
(This image shows face side downward
against the working surface.)
27. Position and attach the add-on side wall
by overlapping side straight edge over
corresponding flange tab (flange will be
on the back of the back wall).
 
28. Prepare the optional base build up shapes
(for strength, rigidity and weight) by layering,
carefully aligning all edges, and attaching
the multiple shapes together.
NOTE that if using liquid adhesive, the build-up
shapes should be pressed under a flat weight
during the drying process to prevent warping
or curling.
29. Position and attach the sides and back
accent shapes to the FACE sides of the
wall structure.
30. Position and attach the build up base shapes
over the bottom panel, lining up the three
cut sides that correspond (use weight to flatten
during glue drying process).
31. Form the walls unit into a three-sided
tray by bending the side and bottom panels
together to overlap the straight bottom edge
over the adjacent side panel flange,
and glue in place.
Repeat for the opposite bottom seam.
32. Orient the platform with wedge (pointed) front corners
forward. Position the upper walls unit base over
the platform, line up edges, and glue together.
33. Complete the assembly by placing the three logs
on the inside bottom of the tray,
then position the two blocks on top.
Rotate logs and blocks to indicate
the intended date as the forward face.
NOTE that the "blank" position can be used
as the left block face for single digit dates
1, 2, 6, 7, 8 or 9.
Other "single digit" dates will need to be 
presented as: 03, 04, or 05.