Fish with Internal Magnets for Fishing Game

A variety of six (2 in each of three sets) thick and sturdy fish  

for a magnetic bobber/hook fishing pole game: 

wavy gill fish; smilely fish; sharky fish; capsule fish, 

spiney fish, spotted belly fish. 

Each fish is built with decorative front layers, 

and multiple offset build up layers which enclose 

a neodyminum 3/8" magnetic ring within 

circle recess (considered safely hidden, please watch 

small children prone to put things in mouth). 

Build your own magnetic pole, or find the fancy kind 

that actually can reel in the fish. 
We found ours here: 
(https://www.etsy.com/listing/87765636/wooden-toy-fishing
-pole-with-fabric-fish?ref=hp_rv)

Varied sizes approx. 5.25" long x 3.25" tall x .125" thick. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Determine how many interior base shapes
with the magnet recess circle you will need:
identify the "Layers Testing Squares"
from the cut file shapes, and cut 4-5 plus the solid back.
Shown here is the pack of Ring Magnets
that the circles are cut to fit.
(If you need a larger circle, use your cutting system
program to "release compound path", resize the hole,
re-group the shapes, test the new hole size, etc.
If this is not possible, you are invited to contact
Jodi at hearthsewnpatterns(@)yahoo(dot)com
to request new base shapes with very specific
new size recess holes.)
In our home area, these were purchased
from Home Depot.

2. Layer the recess squares, beginning with 4,
and glue together, taking care that the circle edges
line up exactly. Add the plain square onto the bottom.

3. Place the magnet ring inside the recess . . . 

. . . then feel across the top surface to check if
the magnet is even with or lower than the top
layer surface. If magnet is above more than
slightly, add another recess square to the stack
and recheck depth match. Count the stack layers
(not counting the back layer) and use that as
the quantity to cut. For instance, 100-110 lb.
"Bazzill" cardstock uses 4 interior layers.
Regular textured cardstock may take 6.

4. Identify and cut the shapes for the specific fish
being built. The sample fish for this assembly guide
is the "spikey" fish.
A body base top layer
B interior build up layers (4 for 110 lb stock)
C body base back layer
D spiney spikes body base layer
E body overlay shape with fin cut out
F eye underlay   G eye pupil

5. Assemble the body "accent" layers:

position overlay onto spikey base with mouth,

eye and rounded edges lined up, and glue in place.

6. Turn the assembly over to position and attach
the eye contrast behind the eye cutout.

7. Position and attach the pupil shape within

the eye recess. NOTE different positioning

will give the fish a slightly different expressing.

If desired, use distress ink to apply a little

cheek color below eye at smile apex.

8. During the glue up process - specifically as
the liquid adhesive is being allowed to dry,
it may be helpful to use a flat weight to press
the assembly to help avoid warping or curling,
for a fairly long period of time.
Shown here: re-purposed discard flat weights
wrapped in muslin.

9. Assemble the built-up base.
Position and attach the interior layers,
one at a time (quantity determined in steps 1-3) 
taking care to align the outer edges AND 
the circle recess edges as precisely as possible.

10. Position the interior built up over the backside
of the bottom layer, and attach in place.

11. Add a dab of glue in the recess . . . 

. . . then position and attach the magnet ring

inside the hole, then . . . 

. . . position and attach the build up front layer
onto the base assembly, matching edges as before.
NOTE: polarity matters, so take care to check which
face of the magnet ring needs to be in UPWARD
(toward top layer) surface before gluing in place.

12. Position (center with even offset around)

the fish assembly onto the magnet front

and glue in place.

Here you can get a sense of the thickness

of the fish assemble. Hopefully the sturdiness

of the layering will make this game last for

many years of fun magnetic fishing!

OTHER FISH ASSEMBLY:

Capsule Fish: A. here are the shapes:

B. fin head layer onto body; eye contrast behind eye;
tail edge onto tail main

C. head top layer onto base; tail onto base

D. trim detail at back head edge; pupil onto eye

Sharky Fish: A. Here are the shapes.

B. Main body accent onto body base;
eye contrast behind eye socket.

C. Upper body/fin overlay on, pupil onto eye.

Smiley Fish: A. Here are the shapes:

B. main body overlay onto fins/tail base;
eye contrast behind eye socket

C. Smile mouth onto assembly; lower body accent
onto body; pupil into eye socket

Wavy Gill Fish: A. Here are the shapes:

B. Gill accent layer onto body; eye contrast
behind eye socket

C. Head top layer onto assembly; pupil into eye socket

Spotted Belly Fish: A. Here are the shapes:

B. Spotted overlay onto contrast belly shape;
fin overlay onto fin; eye contrast behind eye socket;
pupil into eye socket

C. Belly overlay assembly onto lower portion
of main body; fin onto body

Whale 3d Hinged Box Tutorial

Smiley mammal "fish" is composed of "base" 

(includes lower body, tail extension with accent overlay, 

"striped" tummy that wraps around sides and lower front 

with optional mouth and teeth shapes) and "lid" 

(includes upper head with splash side cutouts, 

top spout swirl spray, back end tab). 

Lid and base attach to each other 

with black regular size brads as eyes. 

(Inner tabbed strip reinforces across the body at hinge position.)  

To close, pivot the lid toward back and 

fit tab into slot above tail. 

Measures approx. 3.125" wide x 6.5" long (tail tips) 

x 3.5" (spout top). 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A upper body "lid"    B two part "splash" backers
C spout (l & r) base and swirls
D lower body "base"
E "stripe" belly accent    F mouth & teeth accents
G upper tail assembly with fluke accent
H inner front hinge support

2. Prepare the base lower body shape by bending

tabs and panels back, tail end forward slightly.

3. Prepare upper body lid by bending back
tabs and panels, back tab up slightly.

4. Prepare the upper tail panel by bending tab
 back slightly, all other perf lines bend forward .

5. Assembly the lower body tail seams by bending

to bring the first side segment edge to overlap

the corresponding tab perforation line and

attach in place.

Continue to bend, align and attach the remaining

two segments on the first tail side,

then repeat for the second tail side.

6. Complete the front head seams for the base
in similar fashion, bending the shape to bring
together the straight edge segment to overlap
the corresponding tab perforation line,
align and attach.
Complete both side head seams.

7. Prepare the underbelly "stripe" accent

by bending back on the three perforation lines.

8. Center and attach the teeth accent shape
along the top of the mount accent shape.
9. Position and attach the teeth/mouth unit
along the top of the belly accent shape.

10. Apply glue to the whole backside

of the belly accent unit, then position it on 

the base assembly with cross bend lined up 

at the similar angle of the base. 

Bend front and side panels to touch 

and attach to the base.

NOTE that the brad hinge holes on the

sides of base should remain exposed.

11. Position the tail fluke accent onto the

upper tail panel, with stem end edge at panel bend,

and edges slightly offset, and attach in place.

NOTE: a second fluke accent shape can be cut

and attached to the corresponding position on the

tail end of the base, if desired.

12. Position the upper tail panel over the backside

of the base tail end, and glue tail in position with

edges that match up carefully aligned.

13. Bend the tail panel into position to line up
the segment edges, one by one, to overlap
and align with the corresponding perf lines
of the base tail form.
Complete tail seams for both sides. 

NOTE that it may help to reach the seams
and provide a "press against" surface by inserting
a flat tool such as the blade end of this spatula tool.

14. Bend the rim tabs - one at each of four edges - 
to the inside of the base "box", and glue in place.
NOTE it may be helpful to place the edge being
glued flat on a smooth surface and apply
finger pressure all along the tab flange until
it is securely in place.

15. To provide contrast for the "splash" cutouts on the

sides of head, layer the two part "liners" for

left and right.

NOTE if you prefer that both splashes show through

as a single contrast color, omit the smaller shape.

16. Apply adhesive around the splash cutouts

in the approximate size of the liners . . .

. . . then position the liners behind the cutouts

so that the divider edge between the two colors

is hidden in the bridge between cutouts,

and attach in place.

Complete both left and right splash accents.

This is how the splash areas will look with

liners in position,

17. Complete head front side seams in the same manner

as other seams have been completed.

18. Complete the back side seams of head lid.

19. Layer the spout accent swirls, centered within
offset, as shown, base cut of swirls at
bottom tab perforation line.

20. Bend end tabs outward, then position the
two bases back to back, align edges carefully,
and attach together.

21. Insert the tab end of spout through the head

center top slot, push through just to tab perf line,

bend outward on the inside and glue to the

underside of the head "roof".

22. Position the head over the body so that

hinge punch holes align . . .

. . . then insert a decorative brad eye

through each side.

On the inside, bend the prongs back securely.

23. Prepare the hinge support strip as shown . . .

. . . then apply adhesive to one of the inner panel
backsides, bend and apply pressure.
Take care that edge flange tabs remain free.

24. Apply adhesive to the underside of the tabs

then insert into the base and attach just behind

(toward tail)

the brad attachment area, attach to the inside

surface of the base, and hold in place until secure.

This reinforcement keeps the whale body from

"squashing" when being held and opened.

Here you can see how the hinge works 
to open . . .

. . . and close the whale box.

To secure in closed position, insert the tab

into the slot.

Here is the completed whale box.

To further enhance his "charm", consider

adding a highlight "tutti dot" to eye brad heads 

with a stylus or other fine point too

l such as wooden mean skewer.