This extensive tutorial shows construction steps for this mini quilt in the month-by-month series. Information about purchasing this pattern is available at hearthsewnpatterns.com .
Begin by making a regular weight photocopy of the April machine paper foundations (mpf) page, then trimming out one of each sections 1-3 just BEYOND the outer "final trim" solid lines.
Next, use a folding tool such as a bookmark or postcard or very thin ruler to crease each section along ALL of the interior solid stitching lines. To do this, position the straight edge accurately along a solid line on the front of the section. Then fold the paper back and crease against the guide edge.
NOTE that the paper is folding print side to print side.
On the front of the mpf diagram section 1, identify patch 1 and its designated fabric (background). Cut a patch roughly a generous 1/4" larger than the strip required. (NOTE that this shape would need to be REVERSED from the shape shown on the print side of diagram. A simple rectangle will work for this patch.)
Use fabric glue stick to position and attach the BACKSIDE of the fabric to the BACKSIDE of the paper.
Next, turn the foundation over so that the fabric is face side DOWN. Fold paper back along each of the crease lines that bound its shape - this time 4 sides.
This image shows the crease along the patch #3 side. An "Add-A-Quarter" ruler is being used. It has a 1/4" ridge on the underside that can be abutted next to the crease to assist a quick and accurate cut.
(Right) From the front side, identify patch #2 and its fabric (dark pink). Also identify the STITCHING line which is between #1 and #2. Fold the paper back on that line, keeping the #2 area as the top layer.
(Left) Identify the target patch that is being added so it can be positioned in the next step. This image shows patch #2 outlined in red, along with the 1/4" seam allowance extension beyond the creased edge.
Cut an oversized patch for #2, or a strip as shown here (and often included in the kit this way). Lay fabric for #2 FACE side UP on the table. Next, position the folded diagram with patch area #2 on the TOP-most surface (fortunately so it can be easily seen). Adjust the position of the paper (with fabric attached) so that the creased area-defining shape is WITHIN the edges of the fabric below that is being added. Also position so there is 1/4" for the seam allowance beyond the crease edge.
Without allowing any shifting, CAREFULLY unfold the paper diagram so it lays flat. (From the previous image to this, the diagram was unfolded toward the right.)
Carefully pick up the work and take it to the sewing machine. Use a straight pin through paper and two fabric layers, if necessary.
Adjust machine stitch length to about half of what you normally stitch with for regular patchwork seaming.
This allows for a secure seam when working with miniaturized, intricate designs which may require narrower seam allowance trim. It also perforates the paper so that it can more easily be removed later.
Insert the needle 3 stitches BEFORE. Stitch EXACTLY along the solid line between patch #1 and patch #2. Stitch to the end of the line, then stitch only 3 stitches BEYOND the end of the line.
No need to stitch a full 1/4" beyond line end, since extra stitches will be pulled undone as the process continues.
Turn the work over and press patch #2 back. It will now be in position behind the #2 area where it needs to be.
You can double-check this by raising the diagram with print side toward you with a light source behind. Light showing through will show where patch #2 fabric is in relation to the diagram lines.
Place work face down on cutting mat. Fold paper back at creases, one by one, to trim excess fabric 1/4" beyond crease. This trim step shows excess fabric #2 strip being trimmed . . .
. . . and this image shows a second crease line folded and being trimmed.
Continue in the same process for each successive patch, in sequence: identify patch by number, identify fabric required, then fold back on crease/seamline between patches already in place and the patch being added, position over FACE-UP fabric, etc.
For patches that lie along the paper section edges where a straight grainline is preferable, visualize straight grain parallel to straight edges of paper, then position accordingly. Here the grainlines have been drawn onto the backside to demonstrate. Patch shown red outlined is positioned so marked grainlines mirror the grain of fabric strip beneath.
Unfold, (pin), carry to sewing machine, stitch on target line between 1/2 and 3. NOTE that since one end of this line and seam continues to the edge of the diagram, stitching will either begin at the paper edge, or continue off of the paper edge (depending on how the section is presented at the sewing machine.
Trim around patch leaving 1/4" beyond creased bounding lines. At the edge of the diagram, fabric(s) can be trimmed just a little beyond the paper cut edge.
Continue in sequence to add patch 4 and the remainder of patches, identifying. . . folding at target seamline crease . . . positioning over selected fabric face up on work surface . . .unfolding and carrying to sewing machine . . .
. . .stitching 3 stitches before and after the line ends . . .
. . . and pressing back from the right side. Then trim by creasing on bounding lines and leaving 1/4" beyond creased edges.
Remember when adding patches that fall at paper section edges and corner to follow the grainline identifying and positioning. This will help the patchwork be more stable (avoids bias grainline at section edges which is stretchy) and follows conventional piecing grainline more closely.
This image shows patch #10.
When all fabrics are attached and in position, use a rotary ruler and cutter to trim excess paper and fabric at section edges. Place the pieced section FACE DOWN on rotary mat and carefully cut exactly on OUTER solid line.
Transfer stem embroidery guideline to front side of fabric with temporary marking tool BEFORE removing paper.
Leave paper in place until all sections are completed and the joining into the whole panel will happen soon.
Remove paper by working backward from HIGHEST number. Fold paper back along stitching line, tear away at perforations. Continue to handle the patchwork as gently as possible.
Re-adjust the machine stitch length to NORMAL.
Prepare the handle by following the instruction step in the pattern. This image shows the sequence.
1.) Position one small background square with traced diagonal corner-to-corner pencil lines on BACKSIDE, aligned in the upper corner as shown; 2.) Stitch on* the line; 3.) Press corner layers back toward handle strip; 4.) Trim excess corners 1/4" beyond stitching. 5.) Position second square and repeat the stitching, pressing and trimming.
* Best stitching position is NEXT to the traced line on the corners side of line.
The handle section has one more small patch joined to the top. (See instructions in column on left on pattern.)
Prepare Section 3 by folding on stitching solid lines, and on positioning lines for the H and V folded strips.
Position and attach fabric for Patch #1. Here I have folded back all the surrounding patches so that I can ensure fabric adequately "covers" area for patch #1. Glue stitch in place, as usual.
Use folding tool to add creases to the fabric at the H and V positioning guidelines.
Cut the H (horizontal) and V (vertical) basket strips following the information on printed on the diagram (being pointed to).
Also find the strip positioning and weaving information parallel with the right side of the diagram (under other fingers in this image).
Press both H and V strips by folding long edges so meet at the approximate center back.
H strip on the left at top has first edge pressed only.
Position the H strips between horizontal creases over patch #1.
This image shows that I have made guideline bracket lines to the right and along the bottom so that I will place the strips between the correct "pairs" of creases.
Baste (or glue-stick) strips ends in place.
Next weave the V strips, beginning with center inserted under-over-under-over, then positioned between creases. Pin (or glue-stick) ends in place, then repeat for side strips.
Join patches #2 and #3 at basket side edges as done previously.
For COMBO patches 3 & 4, follow instructions (near beginning) to cut basket 2 orange strip and background squares, join with regular seams as shown. Next, cut the section into two 1" unit strips as shown.
This Combo Unit will be used at top of basket (Combo patch 4).
This stitched-again unit will be used at bottom of basket (Combo patch 5).
Attach full unit for Combo 4 at basket upper edge, following the regular procedure to fold diagram and position target area #4 over strip unit, with interior short lines aligned over unit seams.
Attach narrower unit for Combo 5, stitch 1/4" inside of previous end stitching, trim excess to 1/4". Join as for Combo 4.
Add the bottom strip #6 to complete section 3.
Remove all paper from sections. Adjust machine stitching. Join Sections 1 & 2 on appropriate side edges of handle pieced unit. Press seams toward center. Join Section 3 below.
Anchor embroidery thread on backside, bring to front, then complete chain stitched stem.
This image shows the embroidery stitch in progress.
Add the borders, then complete the layering, machine quilting and binding of the mini quilt. (Note in this image and the next that quilting lines are added at the centers of all the H and V reeds.)
The final detail is a batting and fabric circle cut with a decorative edge (here with scalloped pinking shears). Attach with button at base of handle.
Now you have some experience if you have worked through the Basics with the Log Cabin and Square In A Square blocks tutorials. This post will explain a move advanced positioning concept for foundation piecing. This time the shapes are not "log" rectangles, or half square triangles. They can be random polygons, large and small. The paper folding to view the reversed shape "trick" illustrated here is also helpful if you wish to control how pattern or grainline ends up in your patchwork.
FOLD THE PAPER
Use a straight edge (postcard, bookmark, etc.) to align along EACH interior stitching line, one by one, and fold foundation back. Notice the paper is being folded PRINT side to PRINT side.
IDENTIFY PATCH #1
Patch #1 will be background. It's boundaries are two stitching lines, and a long and short outer edge of the foundation paper diagram.
POSITION & ATTACH PATCH #1
Step 1. On paper backside, place a dab of fabric glue stick in center of area #1. You can see its shape by viewing the creases that are visibly from the back.
Step 2. Turn paper over, position BACKSIDE of paper to BACKSIDE of fabric. Notice that the outer straight paper edges that meet at the right angle corner lay with the two fabric straight grains. Since this diagram is a rectangle, and this patch has the corner shape as a boundary, this is BEST practice to follow.
TRIM PATCH #1
Step 3A. Fold paper diagram back on left crease/stitching line that bounds area #1. Trim 1/4" beyond paper edge. Here the "Add A Quarter" ruler with raised seam allow. edge assists the rotary cutter.
Step 3B. Repeat for the right crease/stitching line.
Step 3C. Trim fabric just beyond paper edges that define the outer dimensions of area #1.
Here is how patch #1 looks, in position and trimmed.
IDENTIFY PATCH #2
Step 4. With paper diagram unfolded and flat, identify patch #2. I am pointing to the line separating #2 from #1. (As assembly proceeds, the target line will be the one between what is being added & what was joined previously and now is in place). This patch will represent the elf's arm from elbow to wrist. NOTE the stripe direction line notation, here parallel to the 2-to-3 stitching line. Once you know which one, fold the diagram on that target line.
POSITION PATCH #2
Step 5. The top layer should be the top, most visible layer. The creases defining area #2 are here highlighted with pencil, and the stripe guideline has been transferred to the backside, too. Position the area over the fabric which is FACE side up on the table. Rotate the diagram until the guide arrow is in line with the fabric stripes. Adjust toward fabric section edges to reduce wasted fabric.
STITCH PATCH #2
Step 6. Carefully unfold the paper, hold the layers to avoid any shifting, move to the sewing machine. Adjust stitch length to 12 stitches per inch, or about HALF the length of regular piecing. Use neutral thread color. Begin stitching from the cut edge of paper (interior patches will start 2 stitches only before the line). Stitch along and EXACTLY on target line, and stop 2 stitches beyond end of the line.
Step 7. Turn the work over. Press patch #2 back.
TRIM PATCH #2
Step 8. Re-fold diagram at the stitched seamline. Trim excess fabric 1/4" beyond fold.
Step 9. Unfold, fold one-by-one on the two creases that are the boundaries for Patch #2, trim 1/4" beyond creases.
Step 10. Unfold foundation. Trim the two edges that fall at foundation edge. Trim just beyond the paper edge.
Here is the assembly with patches 1 & 2 trimmed and in place.
CONTINUING THE PROCESS
Step 11 and beyond: Identify the next patch to be added. In this case, it would be Patch #3. I have added a stripe direction line because for this project I want the sleeve stripes to be parallel to the outer edge of the line, as shown. Follow the folding-back, guideline transfer to backside (if desired), positioning on fabric #3, unfolding, stitching, trimming, etc., steps as previously illustrated.
With each new patch added through the rest of the assembly, pay attention to:
1. which foundation lines are stitching lines or outer trim lines; 2. which lines will be CROSSED by following stitching lines (2 stitches before and 2 after the line), or which will not (at edge of foundation, complete stitches FROM or TO edge.)
When all patches are added correctly, make final trim at outer solid lines of the foundation. Remove paper at stitching perforations, working in reverse order.
This extensive tutorial shows construction steps for this mini quilt in the month-by-month series. Information about purchasing this pattern is available at hearthsewnpatterns.com .
