Pilgrim Man Canister Wrap Assembly Guide

Just right for your Thanksgiving season festivities

is another in the series of canister wrap figures.

Smiling pilgrim man features classic pilgrim buckle hat,

dimensional nose, collar suit with bow tie, slice form Indian corn.

Built in flanges on the hat’s underside 

fit into the top of the canister to help hold it in place. 

This design is available from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store,

or (soon) through SnapDragonSnippets.com.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A canister tube

B rim ring

C base ring

D base cap

E suit front

F collar

G belt and buckle

H head

I hair

J eyes, dimensional nose, smile

K hat crown segments

L upper brim

M middle brim (reinforcement)

N lower brim with flange slots

O flange

P hat band and buckle shapes (2)

Q corn slices (5) and back

R husk shapes (5)

S kernel colored circles

2. View the canister tube construction here (Scarecrow canister wrap project) in steps 2-6, then return to continue the assembly of the Pilgrim.

3. Prepare the dimensional bow tie. Curl the long bow ends. Bring the perforation dash on one end to the center back of the bow strip and glue in place. 











4. Bring the opposite end to the dash and glue in place. Check and even out bows if necessary.

5. Fold each of the streamer ends down at their angled hash cut, then press to crease, and adjust them as necessary for best symmetry possible. The top portion of the streamers forms a sort of "knot".

6. Fold the bow down behind the knot and glue in place.

(This image shows the backside of the bow.)

7.  Assemble the head/hair/face unit. Fold the dimensional nose at the center in a "mountain" fold, then fold side tabs upward in "valley" folds. Insert tabs into face slots. On backside, glue tabs to backside of head.

Add rouge to cheeks with artist's pastels or makeup blush and finger tip or q-tip. Add toe-part eyes, eyebrows, mouth. Center head over hair shape, with top edges aligned.


8. Assemble the suit panel. Insert brads into holes or place stud embellishments over holes. Place collar at top edge, centered. Add bow at top of collar (or wait until face and suit are attached to canister body to check correct placement. Add belt and buckle. (NOTE: cut file includes a small contrast shape for buckle prong which is not shown on this project.)

9. Bend the suit panel slightly downward on vertical perf lines. Position panel over canister front, bottom edges aligned, and glue center as well as side surfaces that touch. Position head centered on canister front, with top edges aligned. Glue center and any side surfaces that touch to canister front.

10. Build had. Fold center front section (includes top hexagon) and 5 side sections as shown. 

11. Prepare and join the first two sections. Apply glue to the tab, then overlap the straight adjacent edge to the perf line. Make sure top and bottom edge/perf lines are aligned, then glue in place.

12. Repeat for the remaining 4 seams so that the crown is joined into one section. 

13. Form the hat crown into a tube to align the edge and tab perf line of the final seam. Apply glue to the tab, overlap edge, adjust, and hold until secure.

14.  Apply glue to the crown top tabs. Fold the top attached hexagon down, adjust the crown tube shape so that the hexagon edges align just inside of the per lines. Hold to secure.

















It may be helpful to assist the top hex gluing process to invert the crown onto a table top then reach into the tube to press against the tabs to secure the seams.

15. Slide the upper brim ring over the crown assembly. Apply glue to the top surfaces of the tabs, then slide the brim ring down completely and apply pressure to secure the joining.

16. Prepare the flange ring for the underside of the hat. Fold the ring shape on vertical perforations to form it into a ring. Fold the rim tabs back. Overlap the straight END to the perf line on the opposite end and glue. Glue rim tabs in their "back" position.

17. Identify the long center front and center back tabs and sections of the ring. Also identify the long front and back slots on the under brim. Insert the corresponding tabs into matched-size slots. Work the ring down to sit flush against the backside of the brim.

18. On the brim backside, fold the tabs outward (makes it easier to press to glue), apply glue between brim and tab, and glue in place.

Assist the gluing process by inverting the brim face side up onto a flat surface, then applying pressure at the tab locations.

19. Apply glue to one side of the reinforcing plain brim circle. Place it over the backside of the lower brim circle (with flange tabs).

20. Prepare to attach the crown with upper brim over the lower brim assembly. Identify again the center front long section of the flange - this is the front. Locate the front face of the crown (interchangeable). Apply glue to the underside of upper brim. Place the upper and lower together and apply pressure around edges to secure.

21. Prepare the hat band. For the single band shape: form a ring, overlap end to tab perf dash, and glue. For the mulitple pece band: join the six segments into a single band ring.

Attach the hat buckle centered on the hat front panel.


NOTE: The individual hat band shapes allow flexibility in cutting from patterns, such as stripes.

22. Prepare the dimensional indian corn by folding the 5 shapes with center perf lines face sides together. 

23. Apply glue and join the right side of first shape to the left side of the second shape, as shown.

24. Continue joining third, fourth and fifth shapes in similar manner. 

25. Position (centered) the final whole, unperforated back shape behind the folded slices portion and glue in place.

26. Prepare the husk shapes by manually pleating or "grunge" fold/mashing  the pointy ends. Also fold face sides together on the center vertical perforation line.

27. Attach one husk shape at the top of each face of the slice form, with perf fold angles tucked in as snugly as possible.

28. Apply randomly placed dots of glue to the slice form surfaces, then place or sprinkle the multi-colored punch circles to imitate the colored kernels of indian corn.

29. Position and securely glue in place on the front of the canister.

30. Place the hat onto the top of the canister by guiding the flange inside the rim of the top opening.

Your pilgrim man is all set

to welcome in a season of

gratitude and thanksgiving.

Pilgrim Man and Gal Stick Figures "Give Thanks" Assembly Guide

Create this pair of standing pilgrim figures

to adorn a holiday display or shelf this Thanksgiving season.

Each is approx. 9.25" tall, and in the form of

a "flat" paper doll. A center back support keeps them upright. 

Flange tabs insert into the oval base boxes

so they can stand upright.

Offset shapes included in file so that the figures

can be used as paper dolls or other decorations individually,

without stand.

Each holds a swag banner that together says

"GIVE THANKS".

From SnapDragon Snippets,

and available for purchase and download as an svg file

through Snap Dragon Snippets website,

soon from SVG Attic, and from

the Silhouette America online store.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes.

Here are the pieces for the Pilgrim Man stick figure and stand. Some of the shapes have been pre-assembled to help them make sense. 

NOTE that the maple brown base shapes (upper left) include one that has the support "stand" tab on the bottom. Use this base shape as the back layer. The other base shape can be used to create a figure to use or display without the base. But you can also use him as the "glue-to" base for the figure with the stand, which also makes it sturdier.

Read through the tutorial to further identify these shapes.

Here are the pieces for the Pilgrim Gal.

She also has two base layers, one with support tab and one without.

In both groupings, the swag banner flags have been pre-folded over the twine with letters attached.

An optional shape is included in the file to cut the "twine" shape from paper, if preferred.

For twine, cut a length approx. 18" long, then trim to size when assembly is complete.

NOTE: 
Assembly is practically identical for either figure. The Pilgrim Man will be in more detail, 

2. Position and attach the suit base shape on the front of the base shape without the bottom support tab. There is a narrow offset margin around the figure's decorative shapes that will also help with placement. Take care to center the shape so that the margin is equal beyond each edge, except where layered shapes cause an offset "bump-out", such as where the man's collar is wider than the suit bases.

For the Gal: Position, center and attach the dress base shape on the larger, offset base shape without the support tab at bottom.

3. Layer other shapes on top of, or next to, the suit base, including the left and right side suit body shapes, cuffs with buttons, hands , belt and buckle, socks with shoes and buckles. Use the offset bump-outs to help with placement. Make sure the hand and base punch circles line up exactly.

4. Bend the nose cutout slightly to give it some definition, then center and place the head/face shape at suit shapes' neck edge.

5. Complete the decor shapes: hair; eyes; collar with bow; hat with band, buckle and brim (buckle should probably go on the band, but he has kind of a humorous swagger with it this erroneous way that I like). Cut file includes an optional cheek cutout. I have substituted a little Q-Tip and blusher instead. The mouth would go on last.

6. For the stick figure with stand, attach the assembled figure with base to the base shape that includes the bottom support tabs.

For the Gal: layer and assemble the decor shapes on the base in similar fashion: socks, shoes and buckles; collar and buttons; cuffs and hands; face, hair, hat back and front, heart.

Blush cheeks or use cheek shape as for Man.


For the stick figure with stand, attach the assembled figure with base to the base shape that includes the bottom support tabs.

6. Prepare the back support shape by folding at the vertical center line perforation as "mountain" or inward fold, side tabs fold outward ("valley" folds).

7. Apply adhesive to the backside of the center triangular shaped areas and bottom tabs, then refold and press until secure. 

8. Apply adhesive to the side tabs of the support, then position it centered on the backside of the assembly (center dash lines provide guide for centering) with the tab bottom edge even with the figure base bottom tab edge (small dash cuts on base will help guide the vertical placement).

Apply pressure to the side tabs until secure.

 STAND BOX ASSEMBLY
9. Identify the LID and BASE boxing strips that go together. 
LID shapes have a tiny triangle and circle cut in the end tabs. The triangle should point UP during assembly.
BASE shapes have a tiny square (near bottom) and double circle symbols in end tabs.

Overlap the straight end of shorter strip over the end tab to perforation line. Make sure the horizontal perf lines are lined up exactly, then glue together.

 10. Prepare the joined upper boxing strip by folding on the vertical perforations, and folding the upper connection tabs, and the bottom rim tabs back.










11. Leave the non-tab end rim tab unfolded. Fold all other rim tabs back and glue in place.

12. Position and attach the optional decorative leaf sprig shapes on the lid shape (includes the slots).

13. Locate the widest section of the long boxing strip. This is the FRONT. Line up the lid front edge with the front section perf line, overlap edge to perforation, and glue in place. Hold and apply pressure until secure.

14. Bend the next section tab (toward shorter end) into position so that the lid edge overlaps and aligns with the perforation line, and glue in place. Hold until secure.

Continue working toward the short end until all section tabs are attached.

15. Repeat the alignment and attaching process for each of the section tabs and lid edges working with the longest portion of the strip until all but the last tab are in place.

16. Apply adhesive to BOTH the final top tab and the strip end tab, then position each in the same step. End tab will slide under the opposite end of strip edge, as was done when strips were joined in step 9 above.










17. Fold and glue down the final rim tab.
















18. To position figure, insert the base tab near feet into the cross slot, and the support tab into the perpendicular slot, and push the tabs in until the figure's bottom edges are seated fully at the top of the lid.

This is the final position. If you want the figure to be permanently attached to the box stand, you can tape or apply other adhesive at the slot edges on the inside of the lid where it will be hidden.

19. Repeat the assembly process in steps 10-17 to assemble the box BASE.

20. To complete the box, slide the base into the bottom of the lid. This will be a snug fit, so the slide base straight in. Add adhesive between the boxing layers if desired (but the fit may make this unnecessary. 

NOTE: This image shows the box parts being fit together without the figure in place, but it can likewise be accomplished with figure in place.

21. Assemble the swags. Cut a length of twine approx. 18" long (or use curved cut shape). Fold the flags at the perf line, place over the twine, position as desired (mine are a generous 1/8" apart), then glue in place. Glue letters onto fronts.

22. To attach twine, thread through hand hole punches, adjust ends so swags hang evenly, then glue in place on the backside. If desired, form a loop with the excess and glue in place. When dried, trim excess.

Hope you'll have fun

thinking of clever ways to use these figures.

One variation is to place the figures side by side,

overlapping and attaching center hands,

then creating one long banner swag on 

a longer piece of twine that hangs across both figures,

from the right hand of one across to the left hand of the other.

Perhaps the flags could hold the names of

party goers for an elaborate place card.

Or come up with your own favorite holiday phrase

as a substitute.