Sunday, March 15, 2015

Lilies Bouquet Tall Box Card Assembly

Create this bloom-filled box card
which folds flat for giving, then re-takes it's box form
to display a full Easter bouquet of lily blossoms and buds.
Box measures approx. 11.5" tall x 2.5" deep x 2.5" wide.
Blooms are assembled from four petal shapes plus stamen.
Buds are assembled from base, side and tiny calyx bottom.
Bridges include stems and leaves and are numbered.
Oval bottom stems and leaves are attached to back panel.
Blooms and buds are attached to tops of 
semi-circle bases (blooms)
and buds are attached to bulb bases.
Two-layer bracket tag plus "Easter" cutout
can attach through loop ends to punch hole tab
on front panel.

ASSEMBLY:
1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A box base
B "inner" back flap accent
C "inner front and side flap accents
D outer front and side panel accents
E tag base, accent, Easter word & base
F clear acrylic support shapes (2)
Bridge 1 elements
Bridge 2 elements
Bridge 3 elements
Bridge 4 elements
Back panel elements





2. Prepare the box base by folding on the vertical perforation lines, folding side and front top flaps outward. (NOTE that back panel is NOT a flap and is NOT bent.)


3. Attach the center (front) panel accent with the punch circle tab, and two side panel accents to their respective panels.





4. On the "inside" (backside) of the card base, position and attach the tall back flap and shorter flap accent shapes, offset 1/8" from the decorative scalloped edges. (Straight edges are aligned even with perforation folds.)











5. Fold the box base into a tube, overlap the straight back edge with the opposite side edge tab perforation line, line up the bottom edges, and join the side seam.













6. Assemble the 7 bloom units by layering the blossom shapes, from back layer to top layer as shown, lining up the bottom rounded edges (stamen unit is approx. 1/8" above bottom) and centering.

Order: flat whole petal, taller spike petal pair, stamen unit, shorter spike petal pair, bent front whole petal.

7. Assemble the bud units (2 left, 2 right): whole base, side sliver shape, crescent calyx (green) at bottom.



8. Attach the blooms and buds to the tops of the stems on ALL stem units.

Blooms have bottom curved edge 
tucked under and aligned with the semicircle top shape on stem.

Buds overlap the circle top shapes.




9. Attach the contrast leaf spike overlays onto bridge 1.












10. Prepare Bridge 2 by positioning and attaching the leaf spike unit behind the bridge unit that has the side end tabs, bottom edges even.

For added dimension, consider making the attachment for all flower and leaf assemblies by using small foam squares (I used 3 for each).

Fold the side tabs back at 90 degrees.


11. Assemble Bridge 3 in similar fashion, flower unit in front of leaf spike unit in front of (optional) clear acrylic shape support. Back two layer bases are centered behind the bridge with tabs, bottom edges even. (Model layers include trios of small foam squares - center and sides - between each layer.)







12. Prepare Bridge 4 in similar fashion
to bridge 3.

Here you can see the assembly from the backside, viewing the foam squares thru the clear acrylic support shape base.












13. If you are using the clear support shapes, consider attaching the backs of the blooms by means of a little dry adhesive in the appropriate spots.















14. Prepare the back panel assembly (oval bases instead of bridge strip) by lining up the base shapes and gluing together. (Model uses NO foam squares for this assembly.)















15. Position the back panel assembly directly onto the back panel, top of oval base even with the sides perforation fold, and centered.














16. Prepare to attach Bridge 4 unit by folding tabs back, applying adhesive to tabs, then positioning approx. 1/2" in front of the back panel. Take care to make sure bridge is perpendicular to the box sides, and parallel to the box back. Also make sure top of bridge strip is lined up with the side panel flap perforation fold.










17. After each bridge is attached, fold the card into its flattened position and apply pressure in the area (inside) where bridges are attaching to the box sides. 

This will help make minor adjustments to allow it to fold flat when completed, and allow good pressure to be applied to join bridge tabs to box base.

(This image shows the folding after Bridge 2 is in place.)




18. Prepare and attach Bridge 3 in similar fashion, placing it approx. 1/2" in front of Bridge 4.















19. Prepare and attach Bridge 2 approx. 1/2" in front of Bridge 3, OR approx. 1/3 of the way forward in the space that remains.















20. Prepare and attach Bridge 1 at the halfway position in the remaining space.

It may be helpful (here and as each bridge is attached) to use a narrow tool such as the handle of this spatula inserted between bridge layers to press bridge end tab against box side.








21. Layer the tag base with its decor shape, "Easter" word shape offset (black here to provide an outline for the word) and word.









22. Line up the box front panel punch hole tab with the end loop of the Easter tag and attach with twine or ribbon. 

(NOTE: in the finished model, the tag is rotated so that the 'E' of "Easter" is closest to the panel tab.)










Here is a front view of the finished, open box card.


Here is a side view to show the layers
and dimensionality of this design.



17 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wow!! This is absolutely Gorgeous!! Happy Easter!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Stunning you are so clever

    ReplyDelete
  4. WOW! Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Jodi, I love this card! Can't wait to make it :)

    ReplyDelete
  6. I love this - I just got it. I'm going to make it for my Mom. I do wish you'd do video tutorials.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You are not the first to inquire about video tutorials. Not in my capacity right now. I really prefer the still shots to capture the critical points of construction, where you can study what is being indicated. I know sometimes the process is harder to understand, but it is easier for us to produce. So Sorry.

      Delete
    2. I love your written tutorials! I can go over the instructions when needed! Thank you!

      Delete
  7. Can this be made on the portrait, without resizing?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The box shape in this design file is the largest piece, measuring approx. 10.25 x 10.25 (longest dimensions), so probably would require larger paper capacity than the portrait currently has. If you know how to manipulate files within the Silhouette Studio software, it would be possible to do some ungrouping, cutting, separating, etc., to break the box into a couple of pieces and cut it that way.

      Delete
  8. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Thank you, this is really pretty!

    ReplyDelete
  10. thank you for another fabulous pattern. I'm in the midst of cutting it right now, and it would be a lot easier if you included early in the instructions information about the number of different colors of papers you used. Your identification of the elements just says "bridge x elements" and we're left to read through all of the instructions again to understand anything about how the flowers themselves are constructed and, then, to go back to figure out what papers to use to cut it. It would be helpful to have a separate identification of the flower parts rather than just calling them the bridge elements. Thanks! I'll let you know how it turns out! I love these designs and would be delighted if you created more of them.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Well, it turned out beautifully. It's actually pretty easy to put together; the instructions are clear. The only addition I made was to shade the edges of all of the flower parts to give it a little more dimension. I also put the flower piece that bends behind the smaller 2-pointed piece rather than in front of it. The papers I used are: dark green for all bridges that are leaves and calyx; lighter green for bridges that include flowers, yellow for stamens, beige for the larger 2-sided flower parts, the larger of the bud parts, the flower part that goes in the back of the flower; white for the other flower parts. This means that the cutting pieces for the flowers, although grouped in the cut file, must be ungrouped and separated by color. Thanks for a terrific design; I used it for a thank you card for someone who did something very special. I also use the one with roses for thank you's and for get well. I can see using this for get well also. I hope you design more.

    ReplyDelete
  12. I love these and have made the rose one. Do you have the envelopes for these?

    ReplyDelete
  13. Sorry, we haven't created envelopes for them. Their size makes it tricky to fit an envelope cutting shape onto even 12x12 cutting surface.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Well, I have finally created this masterpiece after two years :) Ah, so many files, so little time to create. Thank you for your great instructions!

    ReplyDelete